Maybe a dumb question

[TheOldHokie]

Is there an installation manual or video somewhere? What type valve do I need? Not sure a fully understand the options and how it impacts how I want to use it.
Greg

Yes, there is an installation manual. I think I have a copy.

The prices I quoted were for a simple spring center valve. Thats plain old cylinder extend and retract that returns to neutral when you let go of the handle.

Before you do anything you need to confirm the remote you already have on the tractor is the newer version. E.G the hoses for the outlets connect to the underside of the valve.

Dan

 

[TheOldHokie]

Is there an installation manual or video somewhere? What type valve do I need? Not sure a fully understand the options and how it impacts how I want to use it.
Greg

This picture is my clone of the OEM remotes. Its not exactly the same but it illustrates whats involved in adding a second valve to your existing stack. There are three valves in the picture.

The individual vslves are stacked side by side and the whole assembly is held together with 4 studs. To add a valve:

1. Remove the nuts on the end of the studs and slide the end cover off.
2. One by one unscrew each stud and replace it with the longer ones that come with the additionsl valve. Four total.
3. Slide the new valve onto the new studs
4. Slide the end cover on to the studs, screw on the nuts, and torque to specified value. Roughly 15 lb-ft.
5. Connect handle to new valve with clevis pins.
6. Connect the two new 30" hoses to the ports on thevunderside of the valve and route hose to the rear coupler panel.
7. Mount couplers to panel and connect the hoses.

You are done.

Dan

 

[Blue76]

Yes, there is an installation manual. I think I have a copy.

The prices I quoted were for a simple spring center valve. Thats plain old cylinder extend and retract that returns to neutral when you let go of the handle.

Before you do anything you need to confirm the remote you already have on the tractor is the newer version. E.G the hoses for the outlets connect to the underside of the valve.

Dan

like this one?

 

[TheOldHokie]

like this one?

That could be mounted either way but I think itz the old stylekit. Tilt your seat forward and post a picture of whats on your tractor.

Dan

 

[Blue76]

That could be mounted either way but I think itz the old stylekit. Tilt your seat forward and post a picture of whats on your tractor.

Dan

assuming that is the correct kit. What else is required? I don’t see a shift lever in the image.
I will take a photo.

 

[TheOldHokie]

assuming that is the correct kit. What else is required? I don’t see a shift lever in the image.
I will take a photo.

That kit should include the lever. Its item #24 in the parts list image.

Dan

 

[McMXi]

What type valve do I need? Not sure a fully understand the options and how it impacts how I want to use it.
Greg

I would suggest an FD (float detent) valve if you're going to run an offset ditch bank flail. You can connect the hoses for the cutting head to that valve and put it in float and the cutting head will do a decent job of following the terrain.

I have two FD valves on the M6060 and one on the MX. I see no downside to FD valves and plenty of upsides. I set the FD valve in float when I'm running the flail when it makes sense, and when I don't need to float the cutting head I control the angle of the cutting head without using float. Float is useful in the winter too when running the snow blower. I connect the hydraulic side link to the FD valve to allow the blower to follow the ground i.e. not in the same plane as the rear wheels.

Seems like you're leaning towards adding a factory valve and lever, and that's a good way to go. The order of upgrading when adding factory valves and aftermarket systems like those from Summit Hydraulics makes no difference. This is a time when incrementalism isn't a problem. For example, I had three sets of factory rear remotes on my last three tractors and added 3X and 4X multipliers after the fact because I needed more control than was possible with factory options. I could just have easily added the multipliers first with only one set of rear remotes and then added more factory rear remotes at a later date.

 

[Blue76]

I would suggest an FD (float detent) valve if you're going to run an offset ditch bank flail. You can connect the hoses for the cutting head to that valve and put it in float and the cutting head will do a decent job of following the terrain.

I have two FD valves on the M6060 and one on the MX. I see no downside to FD valves and plenty of upsides. I set the FD valve in float when I'm running the flail when it makes sense, and when I don't need to float the cutting head I control the angle of the cutting head without using float. Float is useful in the winter too when running the snow blower. I connect the hydraulic side link to the FD valve to allow the blower to follow the ground i.e. not in the same plane as the rear wheels.

Seems like you're leaning towards adding a factory valve and lever, and that's a good way to go. The order of upgrading when adding factory valves and aftermarket systems like those from Summit Hydraulics makes no difference. This is a time when incrementalism isn't a problem. For example, I had three sets of factory rear remotes on my last three tractors and added 3X and 4X multipliers after the fact because I needed more control than was possible with factory options. I could just have easily added the multipliers first with only one set of rear remotes and then added more factory rear remotes at a later date.

Great information. I am prone to lean several ways before making a decision.... Now that you guys have educated me on the options, I can see benefit both ways.

Greg

 

[TheOldHokie]

Great information. I am prone to lean several ways before making a decision.... Now that you guys have educated me on the options, I can see benefit both ways.

Greg

Still need a picture of your current remote.

Dan

 

[McMXi]

Great information. I am prone to lean several ways before making a decision.... Now that you guys have educated me on the options, I can see benefit both ways.

Greg

Never underestimate the importance of ergonomics. Anything that makes it easier, more comfortable or more enjoyable to use a piece of equipment is a very big deal in my world.

I'll make the point again that running the flail is so much more enjoyable (due to much improved ergonomics) now that I have the Scorpion control grip on the rearmost lever and the Summit Hydraulics 3X multiplier. I don't need to switch between levers to control the angle or location of the cutting head, and extending the length of the lever with the control grip makes it so much more accessible. I'm constantly adjusting the cutting head on the flail as I'm moving, so anything that makes that task easier, more precise, faster, more ergonomic, more controlled etc., is a good thing.

The location of the rear remote levers on the MX tractors is just about the only real negative of that model. If the MX6000 cab layout was like the L6060 (in terms of the location of the rear remote levers) it'd outsell the L6060 100 to 1. I might eventually extend the other two levers to improve accessibility, either by welding in extensions or simply adding control grips without buttons. Not a priority but something that I'll look into at some point.

 

[Blue76]

Still need a picture of your current remote.

Dan

Sorry... I attached it to the post above...

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/attachments/img_8050-jpeg.156700/