LX3310 Aftermarket Fuel Filter Options?

[ChrisO83]

I’m replacing my cardboard fuel filter element that’s in the glass water separator/fuel filter bowl, Kubota part #6C830-55220 (LX3310).

Before I go hunting through all the auto parts stores, does anyone know of a suitable after market replacement filter for it. The factory part is $41 and there’s not much to it. Dealer suggested finding an after market replacement if possible.

Thanks,
ChrisO

 

[Fordtech86]

Can’t help with an aftermarket replacement, but bear in mind that tractor has a common rail fuel system, and is very expensive to repair if it were to be damaged. Fuel filters aren’t something I would go cheap on. There is also another spin on fuel filter on your tractor.

 

[RCW]

Chris - - Not trying to be a jerk. This kind of thing comes up often. Not familiar with your tractor, but I think the advice from the dealership is off-base.

Ford will know more about the common rail fuel systems and their SUPER high pressure requirements. They're what, 3,000 psi?

That said, a high-tech system like that is probably intolerant of fluctuations of any kind away from specs....all that stuff is computer monitored, controlled, etc.

I wouldn't stray from OEM if it were me....

You can throw an error code on your truck if you leave the fuel cap off....can you imagine the errors you could invite by altering the filtration system on a more technological system like a common rail diesel?!?!?

Where I came from, a piece of cotton undershirt could work for an oil filter, the fuel filter was a "sediment bulb", and the air filter was an oil pan.

Unfortunately, those days don't exist anymore.

The OEM part is $41. Assume a cross-reference part is $20...Maybe FRAM...

FRAM is definitely a favorite of aficionados....

Love FRAM.....please hear my screaming sarcasm.....

Your LX3310 cost what, $32,000 or so?!?!?

Is saving $20 is worth it?

 

[SDT]

I’m replacing my cardboard fuel filter element that’s in the glass water separator/fuel filter bowl, Kubota part #6C830-55220 (LX3310).

Before I go hunting through all the auto parts stores, does anyone know of a suitable after market replacement filter for it. The factory part is $41 and there’s not much to it. Dealer suggested finding an after market replacement if possible.

Thanks,
ChrisO

Agree with earlier posters.

Why would anyone want to substitute fuel filters?

Ignore such advise from dealership parts guys.

SDT

 

[Fordtech86]

They're what, 3,000 psi?

I just looked at one Kubota model and looks like they run about 10,000 psi at rated speed. Our trucks can run around 32,000 psi at full load. This isn’t obviously going through the filter, but the filter is on the supply side of what makes this happen.

There may be an OE quality aftermarket filter for less, there may be a lesser quality filter for less. There is a lot to this but to keep it simple, in this particular situation (common rail system) the risk isn’t always worth the reward .

Wait til OP sees the price of the spin on filter . That one is even more important.

edit: didn’t mean it to be rude either. I rarely care about the filter threads, I make money on broke stuff and people trying to go more cost effective. I like yall tractor people though

 

[RCW]

I just looked at one Kubota model and looks like they run about 10,000 psi at rated speed. Our trucks can run around 32,000 psi at full load. This isn’t obviously going through the filter, but the filter is on the supply side of what makes this happen.

There may be an OE quality aftermarket filter for less, there may be a lesser quality filter for less. There is a lot to this but to keep it simple, in this particular situation (common rail system) the risk isn’t always worth the reward .

Wait til OP sees the price of the spin on filter . That one is even more important.

edit: didn’t mean it to be rude either. I rarely care about the filter threads, I make money on broke stuff and people trying to go more cost effective. I like yall tractor people though

Ford - - you da man!

Not being a smart ass - you captured an important technical part of the fuel system on a common rail in a couple sentences.

You can relate real-world experience.

Is it the OP’s Kubota? No.

However someone can read this a year from now and understand a little more about the fuel systems of this type. Doesn’t matter make and model.

Good for you.

Neither of us intend to sound or be rude. Just facts. I hope the OP interprets the same.

 

[NHSleddog]

It is a paper filter, not rocket science. It could easily be made even BETTER than OEM.

The problem is, you don't know what it is made of when you leave the kubota farm.

For me, filters and fluids are all OEM and I buy them 2-6 at a time.

Here is a great visual from Neil at Messicks about "cheap" oil filters.

 

[D2Cat]

Chris - - Not trying to be a jerk. This kind of thing comes up often. Not familiar with your tractor, but I think the advice from the dealership is off-base.

Ford will know more about the common rail fuel systems and their SUPER high pressure requirements. They're what, 3,000 psi?

That said, a high-tech system like that is probably intolerant of fluctuations of any kind away from specs....all that stuff is computer monitored, controlled, etc.

I wouldn't stray from OEM if it were me....

You can throw an error code on your truck if you leave the fuel cap off....can you imagine the errors you could invite by altering the filtration system on a more technological system like a common rail diesel?!?!?

Where I came from, a piece of cotton undershirt could work for an oil filter, the fuel filter was a "sediment bulb", and the air filter was an oil pan.

Unfortunately, those days don't exist anymore.

The OEM part is $41. Assume a cross-reference part is $20...Maybe FRAM...

FRAM is definitely a favorite of aficionados....

Love FRAM.....please hear my screaming sarcasm.....

Your LX3310 cost what, $32,000 or so?!?!?

Is saving $20 is worth it?

Just last week I was helping a neighbor with his Allis D17. Suggested he needed to clean the air filter and he was baffled. Showed him how to release the pan at the bottom, be careful, and not spill the dirty oil. When I told him he could put drained oil in the pan after cleaning it out he though I was joshing him! Then advised him on keeping the radiator clean, and he got right after it.

This tractor had been setting for a few years. He put acetone and ATF mixture in it TWO years ago, and just got it freed up and running.

 

[RCW]

When I told him he could put drained oil in the pan after cleaning it out he though I was joshing him!

This tractor had been setting for a few years. He put acetone and ATF mixture in it TWO years ago, and just got it freed up and running.

'Cat - -

I'm glad you mention it. I need to do the 'Moline sometime. Motor oil and air filter.

We always put used oil in the air filter.

Probably the Manual says don't do that.

You used what you had...

The D17 looks solid, straight and right....rock shaft and uppers, but no lift or lower links....looks like it had a loader at some point.

A little attention and that be purdy, indeed.

 

[D2Cat]

The manuals said when doing field work change oil filter daily!

 

[lugbolt]

Never gets old.

Then when an injector or supply pump fails and kubota wants a fuel and filter sample (and they do this--often), then they deny the warranty claim based on poor filtration, and the owner cries a river. What are they crying about? The cost to repair? Or the fact that they're mad at themselves?

Happens often.

 

[RCW]

The manuals said when doing field work change oil filter daily!

I don't have that many old undershirts!

Think I misspoke about his hitch...AC had a 2-point back then?

It is a paper filter, not rocket science. It could easily be made even BETTER than OEM.

The problem is, you don't know what it is made of when you leave the kubota farm.

Perfect point.

What's infuriating that it's probably a very simple simple thing for $41......