Looking for advice on rear remotes setup for L3902...

[ErikTurner]

So... thanks for all the advice!

Here's what I'm thinking I want to do now:
loader
3rd function
6-way diverter with (manual) toggle switch/lever to route the 3 loader functions to the back for 3 additional rear remotes
3 Kubota OEM float valves (maybe one should be a detent instead)
power beyond toggle port for the log splitter. (should be the kit for the backhoe?)
That way I can control the offset ditch bank flail mower with the loader joystick, assuming the loader dump and float are not goofy to use. Might need a flow restrictor somewhere if the flail moves too fast.

I also decided to up my budget to get a HST4760 or HST6060 instead... Can those handle more than 3 ports stacked up in the back or will I need to get something fabricated to mount things? (e.g. can more be mounted with longer bolt rods and mounting ports both above and below the support post on those tractors).

Is this a reasonable setup?

I'm also talking to the next two closest dealers and they at least knew what I was talking about when I asked about remotes. My local dealer is now saying that they will only put OEM parts on. (which figures as they mentioned that they lost their hydraulics guy...)

 

[PaulL]

I'm still very unclear why you need 6 remotes. I think the diverter setup is complicated and probably fault prone. It gets you a control stick for the extra 3 remotes I guess, but I think if you're going to the effort of getting 6 remotes, do it properly.

 

[ErikTurner]

I'm still very unclear why you need 6 remotes. I think the diverter setup is complicated and probably fault prone. It gets you a control stick for the extra 3 remotes I guess, but I think if you're going to the effort of getting 6 remotes, do it properly.

>do it properly.
And how would that be? there's only room for the 3 oem remotes in the oem position on these tractors as I understand it, and Kubota has 3 spots for their OEM levers plus the joystick (with 3rd function) available for the interface, unless you start mounting 3rd party valves and controls.... where would they go?

>why you need 6 remotes.
Convenience and flexibility to do whatever with the one machine without unhooking stuff.
The most common things I'm going to be doing with this are driveway/private road grading and mowing with the flail or rotary cutter and I do not want to have to change out the TnT cylinders to go between grading and clearing vegetation with the flail.
I'm going to have top and tilt, which uses 2 remotes permanently. I also have an offset ditch bank flail mower that needs 2 remotes. 3 on the back is not enough to cover those 4 minimum. I'm not going to mess around taking the hydraulic top or side link off all the time when I switch implements...that's also why I am adding a quick hitch. I also have a log splitter, so a constant pressure flow port would be best for that. So that makes at least 5 ports I need for existing equipment.... since there are some implements that use 3 on the back, I'd want to be set up to be able to do that even with the TnT hooked up, plus the log splitter port. And the loader with 3rd function for a claw up front.

I mean, maybe the solution is to just put 3 remotes on the back, and get a long cable to run from the 3rd function all the way to the back when I'm flail mowing, but that seems like a mess to have goofy loose cables everywhere.....would rather just set the darn thing up to have all the ports I want for stuff in the back plus two more for the top n tilt.....but that also does not get me a port for the log splitter.

I don't understand why it's not standard to have mounting options for enough ports and controls for top N tilt plus 3-4 different remote valves to handle different valve type needs so the one tractor can do multiple roles without hassle. Maybe to reduce failure points, or cost reasons, or maybe tractors generally are dedicated to single purpose for long periods? I don' think I'm crazy to not want to have to unhook crap all the time.

I mean, should I buy the thing with 3 factory remotes, and then go to a 3rd party hydraulic shop to get the other changes done? or is there a better way to set this up? I could do the electronic expander I mentioned above (e.g., Summit Hydraulics), but since I'm in the PNW it rains a lot here and I'd rather not have electronics involved, and I don't like how the wiring is all exposed so it would also ideally need fabrication of shielding.

Should I be going to a custom hydraulics place for this stuff instead of the dealer? Seems weird to me. I'm not useless mechanically but I don't really want to install the hydraulics myself, ideally I want the dealer to support it....

 

[PaulL]

I've just never heard of someone putting that many valves on a tractor this size. When you're using the flail can you not connect your top and tilt to itself (so it's basically a closed loop - and therefore will stay in the position it's in), and use those ports? Can a log splitter not run off a port that is also used for other things - isn't there a way to lock a standard port open?

I think the reason that you're finding this hard to do is that it's really not a common thing. Which might be a hint that there's another way to achieve what you want - I assume you're not the only person with top and tilt who also has a flail.

Having said that, I can see where running a flail using the loader ports could be kind of useful - because it might be easier to adjust using the loader stick than using two remotes.

 

[TheOldHokie]

>do it properly.
And how would that be? there's only room for the 3 oem remotes in the oem position on these tractors as I understand it, and Kubota has 3 spots for their OEM levers plus the joystick (with 3rd function) available for the interface, unless you start mounting 3rd party valves and controls.... where would they go?

>why you need 6 remotes.
Convenience and flexibility to do whatever with the one machine without unhooking stuff.
The most common things I'm going to be doing with this are driveway/private road grading and mowing with the flail or rotary cutter and I do not want to have to change out the TnT cylinders to go between grading and clearing vegetation with the flail.
I'm going to have top and tilt, which uses 2 remotes permanently. I also have an offset ditch bank flail mower that needs 2 remotes. 3 on the back is not enough to cover those 4 minimum. I'm not going to mess around taking the hydraulic top or side link off all the time when I switch implements...that's also why I am adding a quick hitch. I also have a log splitter, so a constant pressure flow port would be best for that. So that makes at least 5 ports I need for existing equipment.... since there are some implements that use 3 on the back, I'd want to be set up to be able to do that even with the TnT hooked up, plus the log splitter port. And the loader with 3rd function for a claw up front.

I mean, maybe the solution is to just put 3 remotes on the back, and get a long cable to run from the 3rd function all the way to the back when I'm flail mowing, but that seems like a mess to have goofy loose cables everywhere.....would rather just set the darn thing up to have all the ports I want for stuff in the back plus two more for the top n tilt.....but that also does not get me a port for the log splitter.

I don't understand why it's not standard to have mounting options for enough ports and controls for top N tilt plus 3-4 different remote valves to handle different valve type needs so the one tractor can do multiple roles without hassle. Maybe to reduce failure points, or cost reasons, or maybe tractors generally are dedicated to single purpose for long periods? I don' think I'm crazy to not want to have to unhook crap all the time.

I mean, should I buy the thing with 3 factory remotes, and then go to a 3rd party hydraulic shop to get the other changes done? or is there a better way to set this up? I could do the electronic expander I mentioned above (e.g., Summit Hydraulics), but since I'm in the PNW it rains a lot here and I'd rather not have electronics involved, and I don't like how the wiring is all exposed so it would also ideally need fabrication of shielding.

Should I be going to a custom hydraulics place for this stuff instead of the dealer? Seems weird to me. I'm not useless mechanically but I don't really want to install the hydraulics myself, ideally I want the dealer to support it....

My $,02 worth.

1. Get the three factory valves and outlets
2. Forget using the loader valve and third function for anything other than the loader. That gets messy fast.
3. After you get the tractor purchase a small three spool add-on valve and install it and the outlets yourself. Mounting and plumbing it is trivial. The picture below is one possible location for the valve - you will need to bring it out in front of the seat and up a bit to stay clear of the factory valves. There are plenty of other locations if you don't like that one.
4. Put a quick coupler on the power beyond outlet of your addon valve set and use it for hooking in the log splitter when needed. If you want to get fancy use a selector valve in the power beyond circuit and another set of outlets.

You can add all of the extra functionality for significantly less than the three factory remotes will cost and it will be neat, trouble free, and easy to use..

Dan

 

[TheOldHokie]

I've just never heard of someone putting that many valves on a tractor this size. When you're using the flail can you not connect your top and tilt to itself (so it's basically a closed loop - and therefore will stay in the position it's in), and use those ports? Can a log splitter not run off a port that is also used for other things - isn't there a way to lock a standard port open?

I think the reason that you're finding this hard to do is that it's really not a common thing. Which might be a hint that there's another way to achieve what you want - I assume you're not the only person with top and tilt who also has a flail.

Having said that, I can see where running a flail using the loader ports could be kind of useful - because it might be easier to adjust using the loader stick than using two remotes.

Six valves may be a bit of over kill but there is nothing hard about it. In fact on that tractor its pretty easy.

Dan

 

[Goz63]

I know someone mentioned it can be difficult to find the side link for the standard L’s. Anyone know where they have one in stock? The only number that keeps coming up is the SLH101. I have “purchased” 2 now that after they say they are in stock they come back with sorry it’s out of stock. I have another one “purchased” but everyone seems to be getting it fro AI equipment and are out of stock so not optimistic here. If there is another part number or place please let me know.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

wondering if it'd be easier plumbing to have triples on both left and right side of the seat area ??
Have no idea what ,if anything, is in the way, jes thinking about options and 'ease of use'....

 

[TheOldHokie]

wondering if it'd be easier plumbing to have triples on both left and right side of the seat area ??
Have no idea what ,if anything, is in the way, jes thinking about options and 'ease of use'....

On the L01's no room on the left. When you start talking six valves you probably want to start thinking about remote mounting and cable or electric controls.

Dan

 

[ErikTurner]

Ultimately I decided to buy a Grand L6060 with 3 factory RR floats, a 3rd function up front, and with a power beyond loop set up so I can plug in either a logsplitter, or a Summit Hydraulics monoblock valve which I'll bolt to the ROPS to get additional remotes and valve types. I can design and 3d print and then cast in aluminum some mounting brackets to bolt the valves and additional ports to the ROPS.

As for ease of use I was hoping to avoid having to unhook one of the topntilt cylinders to share the ports for different implements. I'll be doing that in the short term until I get the valves and design the mounting brackets though, since the tractor is going to be ready soon and the monoblock I chose is out of stock for a while.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Ultimately I decided to buy a Grand L6060 with 3 factory RR floats, a 3rd function up front, and with a power beyond loop set up so I can plug in either a logsplitter, or a Summit Hydraulics monoblock valve which I'll bolt to the ROPS to get additional remotes and valve types. I can design and 3d print and then cast in aluminum some mounting brackets to bolt the valves and additional ports to the ROPS.

As for ease of use I was hoping to avoid having to unhook one of the topntilt cylinders to share the ports for different implements. I'll be doing that in the short term until I get the valves and design the mounting brackets though, since the tractor is going to be ready soon and the monoblock I chose is out of stock for a while.

I assume the dealer is providing the same power beyond loop used on the back hoe. if you are going to put another valve on the ROPS just plumb it directly off that power beyond. Then you can put a female coupler on the power beyond port of that valve and use it for your log splitter or anything else that needs a constant flow outlet. And if you pick a suitable valve you could also put the quick couplers for your extra remotes right on the work ports on the valve. That would eliminate a lot of hose clutter which is going to be a real issue with that many valves.

Dan

PS - I would not pay the dealer for that power beyond plumbing - you can do it yourself for the cost of a couple fittings and the hose.

PPS - You are also going to need a tank return for your add-on valve - is the dealer providing that?