load distribution on FEL chain hooks

[barndoor]

brand new tractor user here, just took delivery of my LX2610! I'm about to put two of Ken's chain hook/clevis combos on the bucket, in line with the cylinders. I've chosen to not do a center hook/clevis (yet) wanting to avoid potentially bending the bucket. If I need to pull or lift something heavy I'll use a shorter piece of chain between the two bucket hooks, and then hook another chain to the center of that, distributing the load more evenly, which brings me to my question: Should I connect to the short chain with a hook (fixed) or some kind of slip connection? It seems to me that if I hook to the chain and pull unevenly on something only one of the bucket hooks will really take the force. If that was a slip connection wouldn't it distribute the load a little more evenly? Or cause more problems I'm not thinking of, having never done it?

 

[jkrez]

I bought the same hooks. I am thinking that doing as you say with chain hooked to both hooks and then hooked toward the center would be best?

 

[barndoor]

Keep in mind, I have no idea what what I'm talking about when it comes to chain and tractors. But I can see a scenario in which you are dragging a log out, and the log rolls to one side, and if the chain is attached fixed in the center of the short chain with a hook one leg of the short chain likely goes slack, putting all the force on one of the bucket hooks.

Of course I'd probably tackle this job with the draw bar instead of the bucket, but the hooks are going to be there, and I just wanted to hear how more experienced tractor operators are using them with a shorter chain to achieve a center pull. Perhaps this imaginary scenario I'm thinking of really doesn't happen...

 

[mcfarmall]

I don't lift with my material bucket. All lifting is done with the pallet forks. I have a 1/2" 12,000 lb rated D-ring welded in the center of the pallet fork frame for such jobs. I can use the D-ring with or without the forks on the frame. It also provides a place for a strap or chain to secure irregular shaped loads on the forks and a tie down point for transport.

 

[19thSF]

I don't lift with my material bucket. All lifting is done with the pallet forks. I have a 1/2" 12,000 lb rated D-ring welded in the center of the pallet fork frame for such jobs. I can use the D-ring with or without the forks on the frame. It also provides a place for a strap or chain to secure irregular shaped loads on the forks and a tie down point for transport.

Although I have hooks on my bucket, I only use them for light lifts. From a technical viewpoint, the idea is to avoid a side load on the lifting frame. So have the chain, or lifting sling lined up with frame to the extent possible. The key phrase is an "evenly distributed load".

 

[Usedb3030]

brand new tractor user here, just took delivery of my LX2610! I'm about to put two of Ken's chain hook/clevis combos on the bucket, in line with the cylinders. I've chosen to not do a center hook/clevis (yet) wanting to avoid potentially bending the bucket. If I need to pull or lift something heavy I'll use a shorter piece of chain between the two bucket hooks, and then hook another chain to the center of that, distributing the load more evenly, which brings me to my question: Should I connect to the short chain with a hook (fixed) or some kind of slip connection? It seems to me that if I hook to the chain and pull unevenly on something only one of the bucket hooks will really take the force. If that was a slip connection wouldn't it distribute the load a little more evenly? Or cause more problems I'm not thinking of, having never done it?

clevis rings inside the bucket at lift arms. chain

brand new tractor user here, just took delivery of my LX2610! I'm about to put two of Ken's chain hook/clevis combos on the bucket, in line with the cylinders. I've chosen to not do a center hook/clevis (yet) wanting to avoid potentially bending the bucket. If I need to pull or lift something heavy I'll use a shorter piece of chain between the two bucket hooks, and then hook another chain to the center of that, distributing the load more evenly, which brings me to my question: Should I connect to the short chain with a hook (fixed) or some kind of slip connection? It seems to me that if I hook to the chain and pull unevenly on something only one of the bucket hooks will really take the force. If that was a slip connection wouldn't it distribute the load a little more evenly? Or cause more problems I'm not thinking of, having never done it?

Ken bolt on hooks with the clevis bracket inside the bucket. Hang the choker or log tongs on a loop of 1/4 inch chain (with B/A keepers). Do not worry much about unequal load for arms. A large oak butt sways enough when lifted..try to avoid getting the bucket load very high. I drag them till i can get to smooth level area

 

[jimh406]

I use a short piece about 44 inches (bridle) to go between my bucket hooks that are inline with the cylinders. I covered that bridle with tubular nylon with a gap in the center and zip tied them in place to keep from causing unnecessary paint damage to my bucket.

I use a couple of chain links between a regular hook that attaches to the “bridle” and a slip hook to attach straps etc. A slip hook will slip since they are designed to do that which could unevenly load the cylinders. If I want to use chain, I attach the regular type hook to my bridle.

 

[Goz63]

I use a short piece about 44 inches (bridle) to go between my bucket hooks that are inline with the cylinders. I covered that bridle with tubular nylon with a gap in the center and zip tied them in place to keep from causing unnecessary paint damage to my bucket.

I use a couple of chain links between a regular hook that attaches to the “bridle” and a slip hook to attach straps etc. A slip hook will slip since they are designed to do that which could unevenly load the cylinders. If I want to use chain, I attach the regular type hook to my bridle.

Jim I am a visual guy. Can you post a picture. I am contemplating putting something on the bucket. One hook in center, one on each end or loops in the bucket. Not sure yet.

 

[jimh406]

I hope this is an ok picture. I probably could have made it a little longer to leave more room for the hook, but it works great.

Obviously, it is easily removable since it’s only links in the hooks. I thought of this approach to avoid a center hook since I heard about buckets being bent from the pressure at a center hook.

 

[Goz63]

I hope this is an ok picture. I probably could have made it a little longer to leave more room for the hook, but it works great.

Obviously, it is easily removable since it’s only links in the hooks. I thought of this approach to avoid a center hook since I heard about buckets being bent from the pressure at a center hook.

View attachment 63915

Thanks Jim. I like that set up. Hope you don’t mind if I copy it. Did you weld your hooks or bolt on?

 

[jimh406]

Thanks Jim. I like that set up. Hope you don’t mind if I copy it. Did you weld your hooks or bolt on?

Copy away. My hooks are welded on.

 

[lynnmor]

With the chain that short, you will have considerable tension pulling the hooks towards each other.

 

[Magicman]

I continue to be well pleased with my decision to attach my hooks to the side of the bucket with a couple of links of Grade70 chain and Grade 8 bolts. It gives the hooks the ability to swivel when necessary.

This was yesterday loading my Bushhog on my trailer for repairs. (The rear wheels had been removed)

The hooks on the side keeps the bucket out of the way.

 

[jimh406]

With the chain that short, you will have considerable tension pulling the hooks towards each other.

Always a trade-off. Longer chains give you less potential lift height.

 

[Goz63]

Always a trade-off. Longer chains give you less potential lift height.

I would use something else like a grapple or forks if it was going to be real heavy load. For pulling if it again was a bigger load would use the rear tow bar. Just looking to get more use out of the bucket and on occasion not have to switch front end implements. So this set up looks good. I may go to the Clovis loops and go that rout. Not sure yet but like the concept.

 

[jimh406]

I would use something else like a grapple or forks if it was going to be real heavy load. For pulling if it again was a bigger load would use the rear tow bar. Just looking to get more use out of the bucket and on occasion not have to switch front end implements. So this set up looks good. I may go to the Clovis loops and go that rout. Not sure yet but like the concept.

That’s why I did this, too. It’s nice to leave the bucket on to lift one or two things, and I went with the hooks because I only have to slide the chain in the hook, and as I said, I can use a strap on the slide type hook with my “bridle”.

 

[Bri-Guy-GA]

What if you have a single lift cylinder as is the case with my BX. Have 2 Ken's hooks on the way. Figured I would put that inboard of the quick attach arms a few inches.

 

[jimh406]

What if you have a single lift cylinder as is the case with my BX. Have 2 Ken's hooks on the way. Figured I would put that inboard of the quick attach arms a few inches.

I think that would be ok if you can't put them in line with the arms.

 

[GeoHorn]

I’m thinking that using a chain as a “bridle” will expose the bridle-chain to considerably more stress than it would in simple tension. If/When it snaps it may “sling” violently releasing links as projectiles. It also places angular stress on the hooks…not their strongest position…and can rip the welds more easily than straight pulls.

To prevent bending the bucket with a center-clevis or center-hook, a reinforcement angle or plate should be welded (or bolted as a second choice) along the top of the bucket-lip behind the rolled edge. Placing the clevis or hook onto the plate by welding will thoroughly strengthen the entire assembly.

I’m not an engineer but this idea of a short chain as a bridle should be carefully re-evaluated, IMO.

 

[jimmyjoe]

I used 3 weld on hooks that I use for lifting NOT pulling.