Light bar

[Goz63]

Looking to add a light bar to my L2501. Moving hay after dark is problematic with the loader covering most of the headlights. I know there is a work light hook up under the left rear fender. I a told this is only good for 10 amps. Not much to choose from for lights at that amperage. Any good suggestions for a good light bar for my ROPS? I like the idea of the flood/spot combos.
is there a way to hook up a higher amp light without going all the way to the batter?

 

[Roadworthy]

I bought a combination spot / flood bar for my L2501 from eBay. It was rated for 240 watts. That would imply a draw of twenty amps. I figured I'd be adding a heavy circuit for it. I connected a twelve volt battery and an ammeter and learned it only drew five amps. I surmised the stated wattage was the incandescent equivalent. The moral to my little story - buy your light bar then measure the actual current when you get it hooked to a battery.

 

[DustyRusty]

Wait for daylight to move hay bales. It is a lot safer, and you are less likely to be injured and lying in the field till the morning waiting for someone to find you.

 

[Goz63]

Wait for daylight to move hay bales. It is a lot safer, and you are less likely to be injured and lying in the field till the morning waiting for someone to find you.

I agree if I was working in a field. I am just moving a few round bales or hay cubes off my trailer to the barn. In southern MS you don’t always have the luxury of waiting until morning. It rains A LOT here. This year has been especially wet. We average 67 in of rain a year. So far this year it has been over 100 and we aren’t done yet. You move when it’s dry, light or dark.

 

[Goz63]

So my concern basically is the amp draw. I know the volt x watts =amps but leds seem to not always work in that equation. The L2501 work light hook up at 10 amps is what I want to work with and not run new wiring all the way from the battery. This is the light bar I am looking at. It is 120 watts so right at the top of the amp limit if that equation holds true. Any thoughts.

 

[Goz63]

I bought a combination spot / flood bar for my L2501 from eBay. It was rated for 240 watts. That would imply a draw of twenty amps. I figured I'd be adding a heavy circuit for it. I connected a twelve volt battery and an ammeter and learned it only drew five amps. I surmised the stated wattage was the incandescent equivalent. The moral to my little story - buy your light bar then measure the actual current when you get it hooked to a battery.

Don’t know how I missed your post Roadworthy. You kinda made my point about the LED load. I think I will give this bar a try.

 

[DeepWoods]

So my concern basically is the amp draw. I know the volt x watts =amps but leds seem to not always work in that equation. The L2501 work light hook up at 10 amps is what I want to work with and not run new wiring all the way from the battery. This is the light bar I am looking at. It is 120 watts so right at the top of the amp limit if that equation holds true. Any thoughts.

This looks like the one I installed on my b2650, I tested it after installation and it draws just over 7 amps. I installed a relay at the battery, so no concerns as it is the only thing on that circuit.

 

[DustyRusty]

It isn't that difficult to run a new wire from the battery to the light and install a switch and fuse in the line. This way, you know that you are not going to run the risk of overloading the existing circuit.

 

[Fordtech86]

You also don’t need to run it all the way to the battery. You can just run it of the terminal on the starter that the battery cable attaches to.

Edit to add a simplified version of mine, use the work light circuit under the fender to power the switched side of a relay and run a fused power wire from starter for the load side. This will prevent the light from coming on without the tractor running and draining the battery.

 

[OntheRidge]

I run 4 of these off work light hookup, no problem. https://www.ropslights.com/?page_id=241
Very well made.

 

[Roadworthy]

volts times watts does not equal amps. Volts times amps gives watts. Technically it gives volt amps but for our purposes that's close enough. Hook your light bar to a twelve volt battery with an ammeter in series and you'll get the actual current flow. I like to keep the real current at about half the fuse rating as a safety margin so as not to blow the fuse. My five amp light bar falls well within that.

 

[OrYgun]

Chinese LEDs typically dont draw the AMPs they state off Amazon... usually they are under. Suggest buying, and self testing.

 

[Old_Paint]

volts times watts does not equal amps. Volts times amps gives watts. Technically it gives volt amps but for our purposes that's close enough. Hook your light bar to a twelve volt battery with an ammeter in series and you'll get the actual current flow. I like to keep the real current at about half the fuse rating as a safety margin so as not to blow the fuse. My five amp light bar falls well within that.

DC circuits are the topic of discussion, so yes, Volt-Amperes and Watts are one and the same. You're almost right. Voltamperes is only applicable to AC Power. Otherwise, since there can be no phase shift between voltage and current in DC circuits, there is only Watts.

 

[bbxlr8]

I am also coming around to adding extra lighting also now that it is getting dark on me (ugh). I did add the 100 SBS High lows into the stock headlamps (BIG improvement). I try not to work in the dark but there have been a few times when I really needed to finish the task at hand as well.

There are some good budget lighting options out there and I also want to work within the capabilities of that circuit for my initial attempt. I like something similar to the bar above (flood & spot combo) and have been checking out where people have added the cube style also.

Specifically, I have to fold my ROPS and also want to cover forward & rear. This may be a challenge physically as well as under the 10 amps - any suggestions?

 

[Fordtech86]

I am also coming around to adding extra lighting also now that it is getting dark on me (ugh). I did add the 100 SBS High lows into the stock headlamps (BIG improvement). I try not to work in the dark but there have been a few times when I really needed to finish the task at hand as well.

There are some good budget lighting options out there and I also want to work within the capabilities of that circuit for my initial attempt. I like something similar to the bar above (flood & spot combo) and have been checking out where people have added the cube style also.

Specifically, I have to fold my ROPS and also want to cover forward & rear. This may be a challenge physically as well as under the 10 amps - any suggestions?

I know this isn’t as simple as you are wanting, but here is my install. The initial install and wiring was fairly simple. You can get generic premade harnesses for the light bars. I ended up installing an additional fuse/relay box later on.

L3200 light upgrade

Well as the days get shorter the work never ends,finally got around to starting my light upgrade.Today was mounting and fitting the lights and making a switch box.L Series ain’t too accommodating for add ons in the dash area Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

www.orangetractortalks.com

 

[ve9aa]

I just installed a Nilight (highly recommended) lightbar and 2 smaller work light pods...onto the ROPS of my BX2380. Similar to this>> NILIGHT but slightly different kit (bigger lightbar and pods)
Amazon....Under a Hundred bucks. Came with all wiring, switch (lighted!), relay, fuses nuts and bolts.
I tied into the rear 20a cct. I had to fab up a couple brackets and go to the hardware store for some square 3" U bolts, which I painted and insulated with rubber heatshrink, so I wouldn't ding up the ROPS./

Lights up the yard like daytime.

 

[Goz63]

I just installed a Nilight (highly recommended) lightbar and 2 smaller work light pods...onto the ROPS of my BX2380. Similar to this>> NILIGHT but slightly different kit (bigger lightbar and pods)
Amazon....Under a Hundred bucks. Came with all wiring, switch (lighted!), relay, fuses nuts and bolts.
I tied into the rear 20a cct. I had to fab up a couple brackets and go to the hardware store for some square 3" U bolts, which I painted and insulated with rubber heatshrink, so I wouldn't ding up the ROPS./

Lights up the yard like daytime.

Unfortunately that is a Canadian link.

 

[bbxlr8]

I know this isn’t as simple as you are wanting, but here is my install. The initial install and wiring was fairly simple. You can get generic premade harnesses for the light bars. I ended up installing an additional fuse/relay box later on.

L3200 light upgrade

Well as the days get shorter the work never ends,finally got around to starting my light upgrade.Today was mounting and fitting the lights and making a switch box.L Series ain’t too accommodating for add ons in the dash area Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

www.orangetractortalks.com

Useful stuff there and thank you for the thread reference.

For mine, I am reluctant to use that space on the guard as I seem to be always looking through there in my use. I have the BH mounted most of the time so I really limited my options in back as well - ugh...

I have no problem supplementing the wiring or adding relays if needed (old car guy at heart)

 

[FTG-05]

I bought a combination spot / flood bar for my L2501 from eBay. It was rated for 240 watts. That would imply a draw of twenty amps. I figured I'd be adding a heavy circuit for it. I connected a twelve volt battery and an ammeter and learned it only drew five amps. I surmised the stated wattage was the incandescent equivalent. The moral to my little story - buy your light bar then measure the actual current when you get it hooked to a battery.

More than likely the light was rated at 240w with voltages from 9-32 vdc. 240/32 - 7.5 amp or so. At least this is how my Nilite 42" light bar came out. It would blow a 5 amp fuse, but not a 10 amp. The fact that they use 18 ga wires is also a clue that it's no where near 240 watts at 13.2 vdc.

 

[FTG-05]

So my concern basically is the amp draw. I know the volt x watts =amps but leds seem to not always work in that equation. The L2501 work light hook up at 10 amps is what I want to work with and not run new wiring all the way from the battery. This is the light bar I am looking at. It is 120 watts so right at the top of the amp limit if that equation holds true. Any thoughts.

Read the specs: " Input Voltage: 9-30V DC "

The 120 watt is most likely at the 30 vdc limit. Hence, 120/30 = 4 amps. At 13.2 vdc, it only makes 53 watts. A 10 amp circuit will more than adequate.