Relative newbie so sorry for the ignorant question. I have a 2950 tractor and purchased a Land Pride 1672 blade last year primarily for snow removal. I typical remove snow going in reverse and at an angle and have offset the blade to one side (driver's right) so I can get it out past the wheel. I leveled the 3-point hitch attachment and then hook up to the blade and raise the blade an inch or so off a level concrete floor and use the turnbuckles to make any minor adjustments. Okay, this works well for one direction but occasionally I like to turn the blade to use the angle on the other side (driver's left) or all the way around and use in a forward motion. When I rotate the blade it then drops down a couple inches and no longer level. To keep from digging into the ground, I would need to adjust the turnbuckles again. There seems to be no play in the three point hitch (i.e., it's solid). What am I doing wrong to get my blade level so I don't need to adjust it when I switch the angle?
Leveling Land Pride Blade
- Thread starter DavidShoe
- Start date
Try levelling by the blade frame around your working height. You always get some amount of dig in because the blade geometry changes. Get a TNT kit to make life easier.
85Hokie
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I going to assume both 3 point arms are in parallel with each other? - you are using the turnbuckles and the right arm sidelink too to adjust to get parallel?
- but is there anything bent on the frame of the blade? Are the pins loose that attach to the 3 point? Is the pivot point (vertical spin axis) bent down to one side when looking from the rear?
Does your blade have an angle adjustment?
Find level ground - and make the blade parallel to the axle of the rear wheels ......
Lower the blade till it almost touches the ground facing forward.
Spin the blade around 180 degrees .....
what is the difference?
If the vertical pivot point is off just an a bit - it will mean that you are adjusting the sidelink in or out to fix this out of level.
A couple of good pictures will help - shoot a picture from the rear with both angles without any adjustments.....
one blade forward a bit off the ground and another blade facing rear without adjustment
- but is there anything bent on the frame of the blade? Are the pins loose that attach to the 3 point? Is the pivot point (vertical spin axis) bent down to one side when looking from the rear?
Does your blade have an angle adjustment?
Find level ground - and make the blade parallel to the axle of the rear wheels ......
Lower the blade till it almost touches the ground facing forward.
Spin the blade around 180 degrees .....
what is the difference?
If the vertical pivot point is off just an a bit - it will mean that you are adjusting the sidelink in or out to fix this out of level.
A couple of good pictures will help - shoot a picture from the rear with both angles without any adjustments.....
one blade forward a bit off the ground and another blade facing rear without adjustment
The TNT (I had to look that up to know what it means) looks interesting by probably more than I care to spend but thanks for the suggestion. I have some other ideas to try first.
First, my blade doesn't have the angle adjust like you speak of. Instead it has a pin to pull allowing to adjust the tilting as much as 15 degrees as shown in the one picture. The bolts are fixed. The blade is new from last year and was only used perhaps a half dozen times.
I adjusted the lower links so they were level (actually used a level across them) and then took a couple of photos. The first has the blade at a slight angle but one can clearly see the right side of the blade is a good inch higher than the left. If I swing the blade 180 degree so it's front facing then the left side bottoms out on the floor.
I took another photo from the side with the rear blade just meeting the floor. I placed a level and then a small board to make it level. It tells me the front to back frame of the blade is not level when the blade is meeting the floor. This is probably causing the uneven leveling when rotating the blade.
I didn't have time tonight but here is my thought. Adjust the pin location of the lifting rods to the lower links. Currently it is in the furthest hole of the lifting rod. I'll move it to the top hole and then adjust the top link adjustment rod. The goal is by raising the frame I can eventually level it out and then rotating the blade will also remain more level. Does that sound like a reasonable approach?