Also, do you feel in your experience, if it were welded on the bottom, it would correct problem?
Land Pride SGC1060 Welds Ripping!!
- Thread starter Stitchit1
- Start date
The bottom would need an additional piece added, if its welded, will most likely tear out the pockets. The forces exerted are quite substantial, weight of front end with a little inertia and its a recipe for failure. Doubling what is there , if i was repairing would be 3/8 material used to beef it up. My opinion, and im not there looking at it.
North Idaho Wolfman
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Yes you have a SSQA plate (on the implement) and SSQA latches (on the loader).
Welding it on the bottom would help, as it will give the plate less chance of bending.
If you have problems again get a 3/8 plate and that will fix it right up!
Thanks gang!
Update: took to the dealer this evening. Now, I need to be patient & wait. The hardest part. I miss my baby!!
Update: took to the dealer this evening. Now, I need to be patient & wait. The hardest part. I miss my baby!!
Update: Received a call today from the Dealer,.....
Land Pride "barely" covered the cost of a repair... Due mainly in part to the Land Pride Rep saying they have never seen this type of issue before ever. He said the "Rip" in the weld on the right side is the only reason they are going to cover a repair,...... the repair being 3.5 hours of labor to grind off existing pieces, and then weld pieces back on. They are not going to make the pieces any thicker. Rep said have to have been caused from hitting/striking something "really hard" while going backwards.
So, I don't recall anything being hit or struck while going in reverse. My main concern is if this happens again. Which I asked the Dealer about, and he said if it does, he'd almost be able to guarantee Land Pride wouldn't cover anything at that point. They also said they will not make any changes to the new pieces. The Dealer did say they would most likely be adding a weld to the bottom. Not solid, but a couple inches. So, one of my questions are: Why not go with a solid bead along the bottom? Would it hurt to do this?
What are your thoughts?
Thanks,
Chris
Land Pride "barely" covered the cost of a repair... Due mainly in part to the Land Pride Rep saying they have never seen this type of issue before ever. He said the "Rip" in the weld on the right side is the only reason they are going to cover a repair,...... the repair being 3.5 hours of labor to grind off existing pieces, and then weld pieces back on. They are not going to make the pieces any thicker. Rep said have to have been caused from hitting/striking something "really hard" while going backwards.
So, I don't recall anything being hit or struck while going in reverse. My main concern is if this happens again. Which I asked the Dealer about, and he said if it does, he'd almost be able to guarantee Land Pride wouldn't cover anything at that point. They also said they will not make any changes to the new pieces. The Dealer did say they would most likely be adding a weld to the bottom. Not solid, but a couple inches. So, one of my questions are: Why not go with a solid bead along the bottom? Would it hurt to do this?
What are your thoughts?
Thanks,
Chris
Daren Todd
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The land pride rep is trying to weasle out of having to pay for repairs in the future. It was pretty obvious that the weld didn't have any penetration. Metal was smooth where it pulled apart. If it had good penetration it would have been rough and ragged. Chunks of weld would have been stuck to both piece's
North Idaho Wolfman
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Yes the damage to the plate is from going in reverse with the teeth down or lifting and rolling with some thing very solid hitting the grapple portion and not the bucket portion, that causes extremely large amount of force, and yes enough to just tear the steel at the weakest point.
Most equipment is not made to a standard of being indestructible, and in most cases it's just under built to save on weight and lift capacity.
You would be better off just getting it back, buy the thicker back plate, take it to a welding shop and have it done up right.
You will probably end up breaking the grapple at the next weak point unless you back off on what you are trying to do with it.
You have meet the limits of the equipment you are using.
I'm sorry but I just stating facts and I didn't write the warranty; but they have an out as the warranty says they are not liable due to negligence, or improper use, which they will say that it states in the manual not to overdue the limits of the equipment.
Most equipment is not made to a standard of being indestructible, and in most cases it's just under built to save on weight and lift capacity.
You would be better off just getting it back, buy the thicker back plate, take it to a welding shop and have it done up right.
You will probably end up breaking the grapple at the next weak point unless you back off on what you are trying to do with it.
You have meet the limits of the equipment you are using.
I'm sorry but I just stating facts and I didn't write the warranty; but they have an out as the warranty says they are not liable due to negligence, or improper use, which they will say that it states in the manual not to overdue the limits of the equipment.
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Thanks guys!
Wolfman, assuming I didn't hit anything hard while in reverse, would simply lifting hefty boulders be too much for the unit do you feel? I mean enough to cause the welds to fail? I'm not "beating it" into the ground sort of speak; but I'm definitely moving some big boulders, after coaxing them out of the ground.
Thank You,
Chris
Wolfman, assuming I didn't hit anything hard while in reverse, would simply lifting hefty boulders be too much for the unit do you feel? I mean enough to cause the welds to fail? I'm not "beating it" into the ground sort of speak; but I'm definitely moving some big boulders, after coaxing them out of the ground.
Thank You,
Chris
Billdog350
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Stitchit1, I think you said the magic phrase "coaxing them out of the ground". I don't believe grapples are designed for heavy digging and "prying". With some careful movements, you can combine the machine motion plus the loader with the bucket curl and put an incredible amount of torque on those welds and the grapple.
I have seen quick attach spades and spears that would be better suited for tipping the rocks out of the ground. Something like this:
http://www.quick-attach.com/attachments/utilityspade/
I have also seen a single super strong spear that is either attached to your bucket or the QA plate.
Basically you'd pick the rocks out with one attachment, then go back and grapple them to move them if needed.
The grapple is a very expensive attachment, it would suck to bend it all up so you can't even pick up brush or logs with it. Might as well get a cheap tool to get those rocks out first rather than beat the grapple up. JMO.
I have seen quick attach spades and spears that would be better suited for tipping the rocks out of the ground. Something like this:
http://www.quick-attach.com/attachments/utilityspade/
I have also seen a single super strong spear that is either attached to your bucket or the QA plate.
Basically you'd pick the rocks out with one attachment, then go back and grapple them to move them if needed.
The grapple is a very expensive attachment, it would suck to bend it all up so you can't even pick up brush or logs with it. Might as well get a cheap tool to get those rocks out first rather than beat the grapple up. JMO.
Billdog, thank you! I had no idea such a thing existed! I'll seriously be considering something along the line you show. I would have thought it'd need much more motion or inertia to be able to cause that kind of issue as far as welds letting loose.
Tooljunkie, how's that possible, not saying I disagree. Just don't understand.
Tooljunkie, how's that possible, not saying I disagree. Just don't understand.
North Idaho Wolfman
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There is no "bucket" on this unit, it's just teeth!
Stitchit1,
Here is another option for rock removal:
Or better yet this model!
Ahhh the binford 6100 rock picker. Eats rocks for breakfast. All kidding aside,two choices of really tough attatchments.
Wolf man , what are those both called ? Where would a person purchase one from? I don't feel the SGC1060 is a total loss as I originally was using it for removal of lots & lots of brush. But when I seen how fast it was with rocks, it was just that much better. However, tgese two units look to be exactly what I'm after. Especially the bottom one
Ok Wolfman. If you don't mind, I could use a name if you would. I don't see it under Binford. Thank a You!
