Land Pride Grapple Cylinders

[bluedunn]

Hi-

I just picked up a used SCG0548 48" Land Pride grapple for my BX1860. Overall it's in good shape, but I noticed that the hydraulic cylinders are both fairly rusty, indicating it was kept outside without cover. While the rods don't look pitted or damaged, I'm considering replacing these due to the rust. My question is what PSI am I looking for in a replacement cylinder? I haven't priced out the Land Pride replacements but if they follow suite to most other things available from Kubota, I expect them to be fairly expensive with likely less expensive, other options.

Would something like this work (I believe the bore and stroke are correct for the grapple):

https://www.magisterhyd.com/product/2inch-bore-x-4inch-stroke-tie-rod-hydraulic-cylinder/

Thanks for any help!

 

[ccoon520]

At the website for this grapple: https://www.landpride.com/products/592/sgc0548-claw-grapples

there are parts manuals and operator manuals that could give you the rated PSI and part numbers. As far as I remember tractors normally operate around 1500-2000 PSI so as long as your cylinder is rated for at least that it wouldn't blow up on you.

Make sure the pin size, the overall width and length, and pin to pin length is the same. Just because two cylinders are 2" bore 4" stroke does not mean they are interchangeable. You can do this by taking one of the cylinder's off your grapple and measuring it. Also, if you are getting a different cylinder make sure that the ports are the same thread. There are a bunch of different thread types and sizes and cylinders can come with any of them. Last thing you want to be doing is running to Tompkins and spending 40 dollars on adapters and couplings because

Another option to look at is it appears that they also sell rebuild kits for the cylinder so if the ram is showing significant pitting then you can get a new ram as well as a new set of seals to rebuild it yourself if you are so inclined. This is probably the least expensive option.

 

[torch]

If it's just the cylinders are rusty but the pistons are in good shape, why not just clean up the rust a bit and slap on some rust paint?

 

[D2Cat]

I'd do what Torch suggested, except not paint. Use some WD40 and use the grapple, then keep in under cover and sprayed when finished. If the pits seem deep don't worry, just go over the ram with some 400 or 600 grit emery paper. The very worst that can happen is the rust could tear a seal and it leaks. Then you can replace or rebuild!

 

[bluedunn]

I'd do what Torch suggested, except not paint. Use some WD40 and use the grapple, then keep in under cover and sprayed when finished. If the pits seem deep don't worry, just go over the ram with some 400 or 600 grit emery paper. The very worst that can happen is the rust could tear a seal and it leaks. Then you can replace or rebuild!

So instead of cleaning up some of the rust and painting, just coat the cylinders (rust and all) with WD-40 and have at it? I'll try and get some pictures up just to confirm.

The rods themselves look OK (to my untrained eye), with no pitting.

Thanks!

 

[D2Cat]

Use the emery paper to go over the ram. This will knock down/off any material that is above the surface of the outside diameter of the rod. Then spray with WD40, and use. WD40 is a water dispersant, used to keep rust from forming. (That's where the WD name comes from)

 

[bluedunn]

Use the emery paper to go over the ram. This will knock down/off any material that is above the surface of the outside diameter of the rod. Then spray with WD40, and use. WD40 is a water dispersant, used to keep rust from forming. (That's where the WD name comes from)

Ok, dumb question; would 400-600 sandpaper be ok to use? Does it need to be emery cloth?

Thanks!

 

[torch]

I'm wondering if there is some confusion here. D2Cat seems to be talking about the chromed inner moving bit that goes extends and retracts ("pistons" or "rams"). Bluedunn seems to be saying that the moving bit is OK, with no rust or pits.

I would only ease pits on the moving bits. I would use emery cloth for that -- you don't want to reduce the diameter, just take off any high spots that will damage seals.

Painting should be reserved for the outer, non-moving bits that the hoses attach to ("cylinders"). I would retract or otherwise protect the pistons from paint first.

Just my 2¢.

 

[bluedunn]

Ok, a picture is worth a thousand words. Here is what I’m talking about.

 

[torch]

This image shows some blemishes that may be shallow pits or may be dirt -- hard to tell for sure. If they clean off, then don't worry about them. If you can feel a roughness with your fingertip after cleaning, then ease them with emery cloth as per D2Cat's instructions.

 

[bluedunn]

This image shows some blemishes that may be shallow pits or may be dirt -- hard to tell for sure. If they clean off, then don't worry about them. If you can feel a roughness with your fingertip after cleaning, then ease them with emery cloth as per D2Cat's instructions.

Awesome, thank you. I believe this to be dirt but I haven't done yet had the time to really take a close look. I say dirt because the few times I've tried to rub some of this off, it comes right off on my finger. I do have some time today, so will try and clean-up with WD-40 and cloth.

 

[D2Cat]

Yes, Torch is correct. You are concerned about how the cylinder "looks". Clean with any sandpaper, sand blaster, wire brush or anything else you have to get loose material removed. Then paint.

My opinion is you're wasting money and time replacing that hyd cylinder because of the condition of the outside of the housing.

 

[bluedunn]

Yes, Torch is correct. You are concerned about how the cylinder "looks". Clean with any sandpaper, sand blaster, wire brush or anything else you have to get loose material removed. Then paint.

My opinion is you're wasting money and time replacing that hyd cylinder because of the condition of the outside of the housing.

I won't lie, I am concerned about how it looks, but it sounds like structurally/functionally it should be fine and could just use a decent cleaning and re-painting. I agree - it would be a waste of $ to replace entirely if functionally it's sound.

Thanks for the input on this!

 

[bluedunn]

I won't lie, I am concerned about how it looks, but it sounds like structurally/functionally it should be fine and could just use a decent cleaning and re-painting. I agree - it would be a waste of $ to replace entirely if functionally it's sound.

Thanks for the input on this!

Ok, started to strip some of the rust off the cylinder bodies; looks better. I covered everything in a coat of WD-40, including the pistons. This took off quite a bit of dirt, but I do see some very small black marks which I assume are some pitting. There are two spots and they are very small, like the size of 1/4 of a grain of rice (or smaller). Are these worth trying to buff out w/ emery cloth?

Thanks for the help!

 

[bluedunn]

Fired up the grapple this afternoon, just to try it out. Works great and with a little paint, it’ll look just like new

 

[torch]

There are two spots and they are very small, like the size of 1/4 of a grain of rice (or smaller). Are these worth trying to buff out w/ emery cloth?

Are they raised? Are they sharp-edged? A pit will leak a few micro-litres per stroke. Top off the reservoir every year. A raised, sharp edge will damage the seal and eventually lead to fluid running down all over everything. Those need to be eased with emery cloth.

 

[bluedunn]

Are they raised? Are they sharp-edged? A pit will leak a few micro-litres per stroke. Top off the reservoir every year. A raised, sharp edge will damage the seal and eventually lead to fluid running down all over everything. Those need to be eased with emery cloth.

Nope, they aren’t raised or sharp-edged. I check the hydro fluid regularly, so I’ll keep an eye on it for sure.

 

[xrocketengineer]

I would apply some Ospho before the paint and then it would be in great shape.

https://www.amazon.com/Ospho-605-Me...t&qid=1605912313&sprefix=ospho,aps,179&sr=8-1