Land Pride blade nut

[TxTom]

I bought a new Land Pride RCF2072 rotary cutter in November 2020. I need to replace the blades and the manual that came with the cutter says the nut is 1 1/8" but the U-Tube videos for this model say it is 1 11/16".
I need to take everything with me when I go to do this and will have to buy the tools. What size is the nut?

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I'd call LP with your model /serial number/date info get them to send correct parts.
I downloaded the parts manual , say 1-1/8". Was the utube video of your 2020 model or a newer one and was it LP talking ??
Maybe there was an 'upgrade' AFTER yours was built ? I can't say....

 

[PoTreeBoy]

I bought a new Land Pride RCF2072 rotary cutter in November 2020. I need to replace the blades and the manual that came with the cutter says the nut is 1 1/8" but the U-Tube videos for this model say it is 1 11/16".
I need to take everything with me when I go to do this and will have to buy the tools. What size is the nut?

According to the tables, a nut for a 1-1/8" bolt uses a 1-11/16" wrench. Buy the $75 3/4 drive set at Harbor Freight, you'll need other sizes and they have 15% off through Monday 4/1.

Edit: don't forget to take a cheater pipe (don't use it on the ratchet).

 

[Fordtech86]

I don’t know your model, but my LP rcr1860 is 1 11/16 nut to get the blades off. Also be prepared the torque spec is around 450 ft lbs (at least on my smaller cutter)

 

[Russell King]

I believe you need a socket and an extension. There should be a hole in the deck top that aligns with the nuts that should be on top of the blade carrier.

I imagine that size socket will need to be purchased in 3/4 drive and you can get a pretty long breaker bar in that size.

I purchased a torque multiplier just for getting those nuts loose and for getting them torqued back tight. I really don’t want a blade coming loose on the cutter.

 

[Flintknapper]

I don’t know your model, but my LP rcr1860 is 1 11/16 nut to get the blades off. Also be prepared the torque spec is around 450 ft lbs (at least on my smaller cutter)

^^^^

Same thing on my 4' rotary cutter. The nuts on it were insanely tight.

First time I changed the blades....I used a 3/4" breaker bar (40" long) and a length of cheater pipe about 3' long. Wouldn't budge them.

I'm 6'-5" and 260 lbs....so its not like I couldn't put some decent pressure on it all. But the bolts and nuts were rusty and not wanting to give in.

I broke out my Aircat Nitrocat and a 1/2" to 3/4" socket adapter (no more Mr. Nice Guy). It buzzed them right off of there. Used some anti-seize when putting them back on and torqued them 300 lb. ft (good enough).

 

[Pony Doc]

Even on a RCR 1248 the blade nuts torque to 450 ft-lbs. They can be removed with an impact wrench but I agree with Russel, the torque multiplier makes the job easier.

 

[mikester]

the manual that came with the cutter says the nut is 1 1/8" but the U-Tube videos for this model say it is 1 11/16".

If you heard something on the internet it must be true. Don't trust manuals from the manufacturer

You need to use A.I. that will help you

First buy one of these

now watch this

Practice measuring your nuts

Time to celebrate!

https://www.amazon.com/Set-50-Participant-Ribbons-Carded/dp/B01BO0RE2G

 

[GreensvilleJay]

OK, nuts ( and bolts ) are measured for 'spec' using the diameter of the threaded portion NOT 'across the flats' dimension.

Most '1/2" nuts and bolts need a 3/4" wrench BUT I have a pail full of them that are 13/16" across the flats. From an old piece of farm equipment( found in barn...)

 

[GeoHorn]

Are you certain you need new blades …. on a Rotary Cutter/Shredder…?? Unless they’re BENT…(unlikely)…. Probably a waste of time and money…. A shredder is for reducing height on brush and wild grasses which may contain rocks and woodsticks the size of your wrist…

You want a nice clean cut on lawn grass..?? get a Finish Mower.

However, to the question…. if replacing blades on a shredder/rotary-cutter…. Change the BOLTS also. Take your bolts and blades to the shop where you will buy new ones to compare for accuracy.

Prefer to order-by-mail/internet…?
Call the mfr’r with your model and serial number to be certain you’ll get the correct parts…..
….…..
and pray. …. Chances are good you’ll not get the correct parts first-time. and shipping/returns on these heavy things gets expensive.

 

[TxTom]

According to the tables, a nut for a 1-1/8" bolt uses a 1-11/16" wrench. Buy the $75 3/4 drive set at Harbor Freight, you'll need other sizes and they have 15% off through Monday 4/1.

Edit: don't forget to take a cheater pipe (don't use it on the ratchet).

I looked at this set and it does have a 1 1/8" socket, it does not have the 1 11/16" socket

I believe you need a socket and an extension. There should be a hole in the deck top that aligns with the nuts that should be on top of the blade carrier.

I imagine that size socket will need to be purchased in 3/4 drive and you can get a pretty long breaker bar in that size.

I purchased a torque multiplier just for getting those nuts loose and for getting them torqued back tight. I really don’t want a blade coming loose on the cutter.

Could you show a link or description of the torque multiplier you used to loosen your cutter nuts?

 

[TxTom]

Are you certain you need new blades …. on a Rotary Cutter/Shredder…?? Unless they’re BENT…(unlikely)…. Probably a waste of time and money…. A shredder is for reducing height on brush and wild grasses which may contain rocks and woodsticks the size of your wrist…

You want a nice clean cut on lawn grass..?? get a Finish Mower.

However, to the question…. if replacing blades on a shredder/rotary-cutter…. Change the BOLTS also. Take your bolts and blades to the shop where you will buy new ones to compare for accuracy.

Prefer to order-by-mail/internet…?
Call the mfr’r with your model and serial number to be certain you’ll get the correct parts…..
….…..
and pray. …. Chances are good you’ll not get the correct parts first-time. and shipping/returns on these heavy things gets expensive.

I broke about two inches off the end of one blade.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

I looked at this set and it does have a 1 1/8" socket, it does not have the 1 11/16" socket

Oops, sorry about that. I don't know if the 1-3/4 would work. Tractor Supply shows a 1-11/16 socket and a similar set for $100. You'll still need an extension and breaker bar, I think.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

OUCH !!! That must have scared the 'brown stuff' out of you when it happened !!! Any idea what the damage ??

You may want to weigh new blade with the one on the mower. The close they match in weight the better balanced, and less 'wear and tear' on the mower.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

OK, nuts ( and bolts ) are measured for 'spec' using the diameter of the threaded portion NOT 'across the flats' dimension.

Most '1/2" nuts and bolts need a 3/4" wrench BUT I have a pail full of them that are 13/16" across the flats. From an old piece of farm equipment( found in barn...)

There is an ANSI/ASME series of heavy hex nuts, a 1/2 heavy hex nut is 7/8" across the flats (a 1-1/8" heavy is 1-13/16 BTW).

 

[GreensvilleJay]

..as if everyone follows 'standards'.......

 

[Russell King]

I looked at this set and it does have a 1 1/8" socket, it does not have the 1 11/16" socket

Could you show a link or description of the torque multiplier you used to loosen your cutter nuts?

I bought this style from Northern Tool (not this exact brand)

https://www.northerntool.com/products/klutch-torque-multiplier-41488

This has a ratchet that is for the input side.

but they didn’t have this style. This is cheaper and comes with some metric sockets that may fit well enough? It is for lug nuts.

https://www.northerntool.com/products/klutch-torque-multiplier-1in-drive-3540-ft-lbs-max-torque-57483

I can see an issue with the second one in the use of it. The “foot” thing is also the counter torque arm that may be difficult to use. The concept is that you turn your wrench in one direction and then the torque multiplier wants to also rotate but the arm goes against a solid point so the rotation is transferred into the output of the multiplier. That foot may not reach anything on the mower deck stat is sturdy enough. There is a bar in the first style that is about a foot long that I can get to co against some of the support structures on my rotary cutter.

Also be careful about the input and output size of the tool. Buy the correct size socket and wrench or buy adapters if needed. For instance I use a 1/2 inch torque wrench with an adapter to the 3/4 inch input of the torque multiplier when tightening the nuts (and use the ratio of the torque multiplier) to reduce the amount of input torque (mine is 3 to 1 ratio I recall)

 

[TxTom]

I bought this style from Northern Tool (not this exact brand)

https://www.northerntool.com/products/klutch-torque-multiplier-41488

This has a ratchet that is for the input side.

but they didn’t have this style. This is cheaper and comes with some metric sockets that may fit well enough? It is for lug nuts.

https://www.northerntool.com/products/klutch-torque-multiplier-1in-drive-3540-ft-lbs-max-torque-57483

I can see an issue with the second one in the use of it. The “foot” thing is also the counter torque arm that may be difficult to use. The concept is that you turn your wrench in one direction and then the torque multiplier wants to also rotate but the arm goes against a solid point so the rotation is transferred into the output of the multiplier. That foot may not reach anything on the mower deck stat is sturdy enough. There is a bar in the first style that is about a foot long that I can get to co against some of the support structures on my rotary cutter.

Also be careful about the input and output size of the tool. Buy the correct size socket and wrench or buy adapters if needed. For instance I use a 1/2 inch torque wrench with an adapter to the 3/4 inch input of the torque multiplier when tightening the nuts (and use the ratio of the torque multiplier) to reduce the amount of input torque (mine is 3 to 1 ratio I recall)

Yes, that foot that needs to be wedged against something solid could be a problem. I may could chain it to something.

 

[TxTom]

I'm thinking about getting a 20"long 3/4" drive breaker bar and using a long cheater pipe to hopefully break the nuts loose. Lot's of liquid wrench may help. I'll also need a 8" socket extension to reach down to the nuts and whatever size socket that fits (???). Why did I think this would be easy?

 

[PoTreeBoy]

I'm thinking about getting a 20"long 3/4" drive breaker bar and using a long cheater pipe to hopefully break the nuts loose. Lot's of liquid wrench may help. I'll also need a 8" socket extension to reach down to the nuts and whatever size socket that fits (???). Why did I think this would be easy?

That's what I use on our Bush Hog, but I don't remember the socket size. Looking at the Northern Tool site, 1-11/16" seems to be a common size.