I cannot find the window to view the timing marks
Does the starter have to be removed? WSM useless.
Does the starter have to be removed? WSM useless.
L35 Timing Window
- Thread starter wdlanning
- Start date
North Idaho Wolfman
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Should be on the right side...But some designs of loaders cover the port.
Why do you need the timing marks?
Why do you need the timing marks?
The L35 will not fire up. I was thinking that it must be timing. Battery is new, compression is about 300, new valves, seatd, etc. fluid at the injectors. Tested injectors when rebuilt head. All safety switches relays were removed, straight wire to starter and glow plugs. Glow plugs tested less than two ohms. New fuel and filter. Engine turns over without much smoke
You must be correct that the FEL mounts is covering the timing port. So how to check timing?
You must be correct that the FEL mounts is covering the timing port. So how to check timing?
North Idaho Wolfman
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Did you take the gear case off, remove gears on the cam, crank, or fuel Injection pump?
Or did you remove the injection pump?
If you didn't do any of those, timing would not be off, as it's gear driven and can't skip time or be altered.
I'll bet you have air in the system, bleed it at least 2 times, I've had them trap air for a long time.
It's almost always a fuel issue when they crank but won't start.
Have you checked the flow of of the injectors themself?
Or did you remove the injection pump?
If you didn't do any of those, timing would not be off, as it's gear driven and can't skip time or be altered.
I'll bet you have air in the system, bleed it at least 2 times, I've had them trap air for a long time.
It's almost always a fuel issue when they crank but won't start.
Have you checked the flow of of the injectors themself?
Yup. unless u removed/replaced any major components or gears, the timing should be factory.. They're set w/ steel shims under the inj. pump..
MAKE SURE you have fuel UP TO the inj. pump.. loose the inlet line & wait for the air to escape & tighten.. Now loosen the lines AT THE INJECTORS, NOT the pump & spin the engine until fuel squirts from there & tighten.. engine should start..
IF u have an electric shut off solenoid, MAKE SURE its working properly.. OR.. remove it from the system to BE SURE its not interfering..
Have you had the inj. pump OUT?? are you SURE u got it connected correctly??
I just re-read your post.. U said spins w/ no smoke.. to me that means no fuel..
You "could" remove the injectors or just 1 & bend the line SLIGHTLY & hang the inj. outside the motor & SEE if its firing the injector..
Good luck.
MAKE SURE you have fuel UP TO the inj. pump.. loose the inlet line & wait for the air to escape & tighten.. Now loosen the lines AT THE INJECTORS, NOT the pump & spin the engine until fuel squirts from there & tighten.. engine should start..
IF u have an electric shut off solenoid, MAKE SURE its working properly.. OR.. remove it from the system to BE SURE its not interfering..
Have you had the inj. pump OUT?? are you SURE u got it connected correctly??
I just re-read your post.. U said spins w/ no smoke.. to me that means no fuel..
You "could" remove the injectors or just 1 & bend the line SLIGHTLY & hang the inj. outside the motor & SEE if its firing the injector..
Good luck.
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Re: L35 Timing Window and Not Starting
Unfortunately, I do not know the history of the tractor. So I do not know if any of the fuel components have been removed. The tractor would not start when I bought it. The glow plugs were shorted to the head. When I removed them, part of one glow plug dropped into the cylinder. That was the reason for removing and rebuilding the head. Inspecting the nuts and bolts on the injector pump, transfer pump, and linkage are rusty and don't show signs of being removed, but it's a guess. Electric solenoid is disconnected.
I have bleed the fuel system numerous times and there is fuel at the nozzles. I am thinking that the injector pump is not providing adequate pressure to atomize the fuel. However, I tested the injectors using the pump and fuel was sprayed profusely. I also get strong fuel flow via the bleeder valve to the tank.
Since there are fuel and compression, my logic was that it was not firing because of injector timing.
Unfortunately, I do not know the history of the tractor. So I do not know if any of the fuel components have been removed. The tractor would not start when I bought it. The glow plugs were shorted to the head. When I removed them, part of one glow plug dropped into the cylinder. That was the reason for removing and rebuilding the head. Inspecting the nuts and bolts on the injector pump, transfer pump, and linkage are rusty and don't show signs of being removed, but it's a guess. Electric solenoid is disconnected.
I have bleed the fuel system numerous times and there is fuel at the nozzles. I am thinking that the injector pump is not providing adequate pressure to atomize the fuel. However, I tested the injectors using the pump and fuel was sprayed profusely. I also get strong fuel flow via the bleeder valve to the tank.
Since there are fuel and compression, my logic was that it was not firing because of injector timing.
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Re: L35 Timing Window and Not Starting
To "test" to see if the pump is putting out enough fuel.. remove an injector or all of them & SLIGHTLY bend the lines & hook 1 or all back up to the lines outside the engine & SEE if they're firing..
You said the compr. was about 300.. WHATS ABOUT? anything lower than 300 & its gonna be hard to start.. 290 is about minimum.. anything lower than THAT & your gonna need starting fluid.. & THEN the rings are gonna break..
To "test" to see if the pump is putting out enough fuel.. remove an injector or all of them & SLIGHTLY bend the lines & hook 1 or all back up to the lines outside the engine & SEE if they're firing..
You said the compr. was about 300.. WHATS ABOUT? anything lower than 300 & its gonna be hard to start.. 290 is about minimum.. anything lower than THAT & your gonna need starting fluid.. & THEN the rings are gonna break..
Now I am worried about the compression. I did not check it after I put the refurbished head back on. I will check it this afternoon if it stops raining
If you don't have a compression tester for diesels you can pick up an inexpensive one at Harbor Freight to about $30. Has a bunch of fittings for various purposes. You can remove the GP's and put a fitting in there, or the injectors, your choice!
North Idaho Wolfman
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You rebuilt the head, did you set the valve lash properly?
If you have them too tight you won't get compression.
Do as thepumpguysc said, remove one injector and line, move the line to the side of the motor attach the injector loosely, bleed line, then snug it to the line then check for a spray, it you have spray then you should be fine as far as pump output goes..
If you have them too tight you won't get compression.
Do as thepumpguysc said, remove one injector and line, move the line to the side of the motor attach the injector loosely, bleed line, then snug it to the line then check for a spray, it you have spray then you should be fine as far as pump output goes..
Bad Day Monday
Did the compression test. One cylinder was essentially zero. Since the head was just rebuilt, the issue is probably the piston rings....could also be cylinder liner or broken piston. This is the cylinder that part of the glow plug fell into. No unusual noise during cranking.
The question now is can the piston be removed without removing engine on the L35? I seem to remember that you could remove a piston by disconnecting the rod from the crankshaft from underneath.
Did the compression test. One cylinder was essentially zero. Since the head was just rebuilt, the issue is probably the piston rings....could also be cylinder liner or broken piston. This is the cylinder that part of the glow plug fell into. No unusual noise during cranking.
The question now is can the piston be removed without removing engine on the L35? I seem to remember that you could remove a piston by disconnecting the rod from the crankshaft from underneath.
You said compression was about 300,but then said you didn’t check after putting the rebuilt head back on and now you got at least one with zero?like wolfman says check valve lash,unless all the rings fell off the piston just like that it should have some compression with worn rings or bore,a valve hanging open can give you zero
I should have stated that I followed Wolfman's and others advice before I did the compression check. I verified the valve lash was in spec and that the valve springs and rockers were moving as expected. Tomorrow, I will do a leak down test to confirm it's the piston. After I remove the head, I will try the liquid leak test. I know that it is connected because it flatten the electrode from the glow plug and imprinted the top of the piston in several places and moving the piston to TDC.
I understand that a broken ring or broken piston can result in zero compression. When the head was off, I looked carefully at the tops of the pistons and sleeves, but did not see any damage/cracks except for the imprints.
I understand that a broken ring or broken piston can result in zero compression. When the head was off, I looked carefully at the tops of the pistons and sleeves, but did not see any damage/cracks except for the imprints.
Also, make sure your compression tester is sealing OK. If it's not sealing correctly you'll think you have no compression when its' not even measuring anything.
North Idaho Wolfman
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I would do it again... Having zero compression would almost have to be the head, valves or and hole in the piston.
Wouldn't be the first time a valve job was done wrong.
Now the issue really is that even with one dead cylinder it should still fire and run.
Wouldn't be the first time a valve job was done wrong.
Now the issue really is that even with one dead cylinder it should still fire and run.