L35 - BT900 Separation and Derusting

[Nicksacco]

Hi All-

After almost 5 years of ownership and restoration, the time has come to separate my L35 from the BT900 backhoe.
I've restored nearly everything about the two units - except where they connect.
Hmmm, I needed inspiration.

The Mount Release levers were frozen to their pivots in a seemingly permanent bonding of rust.
Unable to move the levers, meant the BT900 was on there for good.

Then I managed to find 2 brand new wheels and tires for the rear and I was immediately inspired!
My original wheels were cracked and I repaired them years ago with welding. The tires, hung on by a thread.

So here's a few pictures of what I did to loosen the Mount Levers and remove the backhoe.
I'm in process of removing rust and prepping for paint at the moment. I'll add to the thread as I go along.


Here is a shot of one of the Levers.

I cut a slot in the pivot tube with a Dremel and 1.5" cutting disk.
That's so the metal would expand after heating and using penetrating oil.
I drilled out the roll pin so that I could move the lever back and forth after I got it to move.

Here's a shot of one side of the assembly that holds the backhoe onto the tractor.
When you move the Mount Levers back and forth, they move the pin with the square piece between the "grip Jaws" which locks the backhoe to the tractor.

Now I can finally clean and paint both backhoe and tractor where they join!

Here's one side of the tractor cleaned and ready for some Ospho and paint.
Hmmm, might have to do some welding repairs while I'm at it!
How do you like my redneck jackstands?

MORE to come.....

 

[L35]

When I bought mine 17 years ago mine were seized also. It was a fight but I won. When I reassembled I anti seized the parts so they wouldn’t give me any issue. Now it stays undercover 99% of the time so that helps as well.

 

[Nicksacco]

Awesome! Did you have to cut the pivots as I did or were you more patient and gentle?

 

[L35]

Heat, penetrating lube, lots of back and fourth. Broke the handle off one side when using a cheater bar on it. Welded back on.

 

[Nicksacco]

CONTINUATION OF THE L35's RUST WORK.

Since I posted last, it has been an interesting working through the last bits of rusting on the mo-chine!
But good news.
With most of the difficult parts of this process completed, I'm getting closer to painting.

This picture shows the left axle and Frame Support as I'm removing the old bolts and nuts.
As you can see in some pictures, there isn't much of a head on the cap screws left.

The assembly for the 4-16mm hold-down Cap Screws includes a "Spring Washer" on either end (think something like Belleville) and 2 nuts.
The assembly for the 3-14mm Flange Cap Screws on the side include a Split Washer and a nut.

There was no point trying to use an impact or any kind of wrench because everything was "welded" together with rust and there was no way I was salvaging anything.

So, out came the angle grinders and off came the heads. With some help from my sledge, and some PB Blaster, the Cap Screws were coaxed out.

One Cap Screw was more stubborn than the others.

And yes, I did add some metal to the frame tube after cutting out the old rusted metal.

Here I'm in the process of removing rust from the axle.

After removing the rust on one day, the next day I noticed "weeping" and of course, more rust forming.

I read about this phenomenon, and learned that after cleaning metal, the pores of the metal can weep - releasing trapped water - especially if two pieces of metal were clamped together.
In this case the 2 pieces are the Axle and the Frame Support.

Not to worry, I have to wash the whole thing down before I paint to remove any oily products and then I'll be coating with Ospho and Coroseal (based upon location) prior to painting.


I thought you might like to see some of the cap screws removed in comparison to the new ones.

CONTINUED BELOW

 

[Nicksacco]

I also found an excellent company in Florida called G&T Engine Parts

G&T ENGINE PARTS - Original diesel engine and spare parts made to fit aftermarket parts fits: CATERPILLAR, JOHN DEERE, CASE NEW HOLLAND, INTERNATIONAL TRUCK, KOMATSU, AGCO, INTERSTATE MCBEE, KUBOTA, BOBCAT, CUMMINS

The reliable supplier of diesel engines, heavy duty machine parts and diesel truck parts.

gtengineparts.com

The sales lady was Irene Breshnev and I had the parts in 3 days.

They had every part I needed for this project and at a very reasonable price.
AND the parts are all OEM Kubota.

Below are the parts ordered:

One more time:

The project continues...

 

[L35]

Outstanding work!

 

[Nicksacco]

Much appreciated!

 

[Runs With Scissors]

You're doing an outstanding job sir!

Being from the “Rust Belt”, I have a pretty decent understanding of how insidious rust is.

Keep up the good work, and nice job posting about it too!

 

[Nicksacco]

Thanks for your support!
More to come.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Looks like it's my turn in the ring. I was showing an old pilot friend my shed and tractor. He asked if if always leaked. I thought he was referring to the occasional oil drop and said yeah, it's like an old radial engine it's supposed to leak. Then I looked again and there was a puddle of clean fluid under the backhoe boom pivot. I thought it was going to be the boom cylinder. But after he left I fired her up and when I swung the boom, there was a stream coming out of one swing cylinder. I know the swing trunnions, pins and bushings are worn, so this is time to see about getting that all fixed, so I need to remove the hoe. I doubt it has ever been off. Sure enough, the levers are frozen. I got the snap rings off and soaked it with PB Blaster. Tomorrow, if the PBB hasn't worked magic, I plan on removing the tire so I can get a torch and hammer to it. Wish me luck.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Looks like it's my turn in the ring. I was showing an old pilot friend my shed and tractor. He asked if if always leaked. I thought he was referring to the occasional oil drop and said yeah, it's like an old radial engine it's supposed to leak. Then I looked again and there was a puddle of clean fluid under the backhoe boom pivot. I thought it was going to be the boom cylinder. But after he left I fired her up and when I swung the boom, there was a stream coming out of one swing cylinder. I know the swing trunnions, pins and bushings are worn, so this is time to see about getting that all fixed, so I need to remove the hoe. I doubt it has ever been off. Sure enough, the levers are frozen. I got the snap rings off and soaked it with PB Blaster. Tomorrow, if the PBB hasn't worked magic, I plan on removing the tire so I can get a torch and hammer to it. Wish me luck.

If possible, I might keep soaking it for a few days.

It’s hard to judge exactly how long is “good nuff”, but I have found that “longer is better”.

But, as I well know, there are always those cases where the “Flame wrench” is required.

Good luck.

 

[Nicksacco]

Goodluck @PoTreeBoy

It might help you to search threads on "BT900 Refurbishment and Fun".
You don't have to remove the backhoe from the L35 to access the swing cylinders.

However getting those Release Levers moving again is worth the time.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Goodluck @PoTreeBoy

It might help you to search threads on "BT900 Refurbishment and Fun".
You don't have to remove the backhoe from the L35 to access the swing cylinders.

However getting those Release Levers moving again is worth the time.

I wasn't sure if they were removable like that or not. I've been putting off the refurb, but this leak may be the impetus to do it. I've been thinking about removing the backhoe just to get the experience, so this thread was timely.

I remember your refurb thread and I'll be referring to it I'm sure. My thought is to remove the swing frame and find a machine shop to do the work.