L275DT: Wiring harness repair - best options?

[timsch]

I'm finally getting around to working on my L275DT, and one of the major issues is the poor condition of the wiring harness. Below is a connector that is below the fuel tank and has been soaked in diesel, has burned wires and has many years on it. I see a number of options for generic connectors (Amazon, Ebay, etc) that I could combine to equal this one. One issue is that the wire gauges are not all the same, so that will be a problem with generics. I'm assuming that these will have been obsoleted or are no longer available. I have seen one site that does have custom made replacement harnesses for this tractor, and I wouldn't mind spending the money, but they only offer 2 of the 5 total harnesses, so would be of limited use to me.

Looking at similar forum posts here I see a number of people are making their own harnesses, which I'm open to. Where would be a good place to get the parts & wiring for that?

My 3-wire connector on the alternator is still working but pretty broken up. I saw posts where others had replaced their alternator with presumably a more modern one that had different wiring requirements. Can anyone tell me more about this? I do not think that my alternator is charging now, based on multimeter readings at the battery when running.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Here are a couple sets to look at:

CAR ELECTRICAL WIRING LOOM HARNESS REPAIR KIT PLUGS 6.3MM FITTINGS | eBay

10 X BRASS FEMALE BULLET CONNECTORS 3.9MM DIAMETER WITH PVC INSULATION COVERS 18MM LONG SUITABLE FOR 1.MM TO 2.5MM CABLE 22 X BRASS MALE BULLET CONNECTORS WITH PVC INSULATION COVERS 15.60MM LONG SUITABLE FOR 1.MM TO 2.5MM CABLE 6 X BRASS DOUBLE BULLET CONNECTORS WITH PVC INSULATION COVERS 20MM...

www.ebay.com

This is a link: It's just a new way to stop computer auto shopping I guess?

Robot or human?

 

[GreensvilleJay]

1st question is
do you want 100% OEM connectors and wires(colours ) ??

Some demand 'factory perfect parts', others are happy with a 100% functional harness. My rule of thumb for this is 1 hour per foot of wire.That's to remove the old, locate the parts,buy all the materials and then manufacture the harnesses.

if so, you'll need to locate the OEM of the connectors. Once you have that information, order the shells,sockets and pins. Wire will be easy to find, wiring diagrams generally have the gauge of each wire ( in metric ) but there are conversion charts.

assuming you're going to make your own, either OEM grade or 'willdo', you just take the existing harness apart and build the one, one end-one wire at a time. it helps if you take good,clear pictures of each harness. Keep records of all parts used and wire lengths. Since OEM ones are NLA, others will appreciate the information YOU can supply them.

'reverse engineering' the harnesses is not difficult when you have the Internet available ! Whatever you do , do NOT toss out the OEM harnesses !! Store them safely away for future reference....

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

GreensvilleJay,
I take it you didn't like my links for the OEM looking plugs?

And please respond to my PM.

 

[Mark_BX25D]

1st question is
do you want 100% OEM connectors and wires(colours ) ??

Some demand 'factory perfect parts', ....

What he said. Roll your own. Not difficult. Just takes a bit of time. Connectors are all over Amazon, McMaster-Carr, and other sites.

 

[Russell King]

You might check out if the dealer can source the factory harness or not. I got both for my similar vintage L185 so maybe you can find one or all.

Good luck

 

[timsch]

I've tried multiple sources including the dealer and they're NLA.

I'm fine with rolling my own. OEM color coding would be nice for future reference, but I won't be a stickler on that.

The kit with the "robot or human" link was out of stock, but there were identical kits on Ebay & Amazon. They were all cheap as dirt (< $20), so I hesitate to use them. I'd like to find a kit just like that but maybe 3-4x the price hoping that the quality would be closer to OEM. I want a 100% functional harness for years to come. Earlier today I did find a site with better quality connectors I'm sure, but they were ~$95 EACH. I need to find something in the middle.

McMaster-Carr didn't seem to carry the automotive stuff like this, at least I didn't find them.

 

[Russell King]

Look at this thread and at post #134 there starts a discussion on wiring and connector.

L4150 Repair Restore

Ok Po and Dan, I got a pic of the junction block. There’s hydraulic fluid under the tractor that I didn’t want to roll around in so this was the best pic I could take. it looks like the Relief valve block does bolt to the case, and the hex head is the top of the RV. This is view from the...

www.orangetractortalks.com

i don’t recall exactly but I think they were just replacing the connector and a couple inches of wire but using the original harness wires for the most part

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I've tried multiple sources including the dealer and they're NLA.

I'm fine with rolling my own. OEM color coding would be nice for future reference, but I won't be a stickler on that.

The kit with the "robot or human" link was out of stock, but there were identical kits on Ebay & Amazon. They were all cheap as dirt (< $20), so I hesitate to use them. I'd like to find a kit just like that but maybe 3-4x the price hoping that the quality would be closer to OEM. I want a 100% functional harness for years to come. Earlier today I did find a site with better quality connectors I'm sure, but they were ~$95 EACH. I need to find something in the middle.

McMaster-Carr didn't seem to carry the automotive stuff like this, at least I didn't find them.

The kit that was on eBay is probably about the same quality as oem as they are brass connectors.

 

[timsch]

The kit that was on eBay is probably about the same quality as oem as they are brass connectors.

The brass perhaps. It's the plastic that I'm more concerned about. That being said, a $20 gamble isn't much to lose and if I don't like the quality I don't have to use them.

 

[timsch]

Look at this thread and at post #134 there starts a discussion on wiring and connector.

L4150 Repair Restore

Ok Po and Dan, I got a pic of the junction block. There’s hydraulic fluid under the tractor that I didn’t want to roll around in so this was the best pic I could take. it looks like the Relief valve block does bolt to the case, and the hex head is the top of the RV. This is view from the...

www.orangetractortalks.com

i don’t recall exactly but I think they were just replacing the connector and a couple inches of wire but using the original harness wires for the most part

Thanks so much for that link. Along with being a great thread to read through, it pointed me to a connector kit that I'm much more comfortable using:

deutsch connector kit for sale | eBay

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Thanks so much for that link. Along with being a great thread to read through, it pointed me to a connector kit that I'm much more comfortable using:

deutsch connector kit for sale | eBay

Deutsch connectors are nice, but they typically do no have the amp capacity to do things you need to do on your tractor.
You will need to get the larger types than most of the common kits.
There are five main sizes of Deutsch connector terminals (4, 8, 12, 16 and 20) to accommodate a range of wire sizes (from 0.25 to 16mm) and current ratings (from 7.5 amps through to 100 amps).

You will also need the crimping and connecting tools to go with it.

 

[timsch]

Deutsch connectors are nice, but they typically do no have the amp capacity to do things you need to do on your tractor.
You will need to get the larger types than most of the common kits.
There are five main sizes of Deutsch connector terminals (4, 8, 12, 16 and 20) to accommodate a range of wire sizes (from 0.25 to 16mm) and current ratings (from 7.5 amps through to 100 amps).

You will also need the crimping and connecting tools to go with it.

Thanks for the heads-up. The devil's in the details, and I'll be definitely heading into the area where I know just enough to get into trouble restoring this tractor.

I have the WSM. Hopefully I can get all of the amperage info I need from that. Or is it more just replacing wires with the correct gauge & rating and matching the connectors to them?

 

[Russell King]

On the wiring diagram in the WSM you will see some numbers along with the color code.

that number is the wire size in some metric manner, I can’t remember exactly what the numbers mean so won’t suggest anything but to use that as the guide for the wire size needed. You can use AWG size as long as they are equivalent or larger than the metric size wire.

also at some connection points there will be just a wire terminal (spade disconnect style) that you will need to match to the tractor wire from the accessories

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

One trick you can use if your just over the rating for the connectors is split the wire into two connections (pins) and that will give it the proper amp capacity.

 

[timsch]

Thanks Gents for the advice.

I'm my father's son, so nothing happens quickly. I'm going to rebuild the hydraulic cylinders 1st, so this electrical work will have some time to settle in my mind. This gives me a good starting point.

 

[timsch]

Finally getting around to being able to focus on this wiring job. The wiring is in bad shape, but most of the worst is related to lights and other non-essentials (for me), so I'll not be replacing whole harnasses at this time. I've checked all essential wiring and most checks out as far as continuity, connections & condition go. Some of the repairs I'll need to do are re-do's for some I did a while back, apparently with wire that was not up to the vibration & other conditions since some of it just broke. I used stranded copper, matching gage as closely as possible with crimp connectors. No heat shrink or other strain relief, but then I don't see that on OEM wiring here. No idea of what the insulation material was though, other than some kind of plastic. The wires I replaced were behind the instrument cluster, so no fuel/oil exposure.

I tried web-searching for auto wiring info, but mainly come up with gauge/amp rating, but nothing about materials. Can someone point me in the right direction for where to look for proper replacement wire?

Much appreciated.

 

[Jim L.]

Automotive parts store for primary wire colors. Use a table to translate metric gauge to american wire gauge. More colors from a mail order electronic parts such as digikey, allied, mouser, etc. What matters is that the insulation is gasoline and oil resistant.

If stranded wires are breaking, it is because there are not sufficient tie-downs. More distance between tie downs means more cable weight to sling around, and lower frequencies to go into mechanical resonance. A tie down is needed close to each termination.

 

[timsch]

Automotive parts store for primary wire colors. Use a table to translate metric gauge to american wire gauge. More colors from a mail order electronic parts such as digikey, allied, mouser, etc. What matters is that the insulation is gasoline and oil resistant.

If stranded wires are breaking, it is because there are not sufficient tie-downs. More distance between tie downs means more cable weight to sling around, and lower frequencies to go into mechanical resonance. A tie down is needed close to each termination.

Thanks. Makes perfect sense on the tie-downs.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

They type of wire you would want would be PVC insulated copper wire.
Copper clad aluminum wire is cheaper but no where near as strong, it does not like flexing and moving.

Selecting the Ideal Automotive Wire: TXL vs. GXL vs. SXL

The list of automotive wire options on the market is vast, so it is relatively easy to get lost when choosing the cable for your goals. The secret to selecting the right type of auto electrical cable is insulation. Depending on the particular type, automotive cables are available in cross-link...

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