L2501D gear drive will not start. PTO switches are good, neutral switch is good, replaced starter relay (metered out of range), ignition switch is good, starter bench tested good, seat switch appeared to be working correctly. There is no wire damage. battery is good and charged. Any ideas?
L2501 will not start
- Thread starter DWTrisler
- Start date
Do you have power to the starter solenoid when you turn the key to start? Are battery cables good and the chasis ground "bright and tight"?
What are the symptoms? Turn the key and... nothing? Clicks but no start? Starter spins slowly??
How does it behave?
How does it behave?
No clicks Glow plug relay works. lights on panel are good. starter does not turn
So you have power TO the starter relay, but not OUT of the starter relay, and you have replaced the relay, correct?
In that case, something is not telling the starter relay to engage. That can be done with a switch that provides the ground, and the coil is always energized, or ground is always provided and a switch provides 12v. Find out which way it works (probably supplying 12v) and see if you get the right signal when you turn the switch.
If not, disconnect the factory wiring. Now supply what is needed (BOTH ground or power) with a jumper. That should tell you if that's the problem. Give it a known good ground, give it a known 12v. If it works, then you can reconnect ONE of the two coil terminals and disconnect the jumper. Now try again with the key. If that doesn't work, swap.
Should tell you which side isn't getting the job done.
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I agree with Mark, you have to start somewhere. His suggestion to start towards the center of the circuit and split the difference is solid troubleshooting advice.
I would do that too, but might just try something simpler first, only because it is so easy. You could use a jumper and momentarily connect the the terminal on the starter that connects to the battery to the terminal that powers the starter solenoid.
If the starter turns you will know for sure the starter is good and the issue is in the circuitry that feeds the starter solenoid...
EDIT: If you do this, expecially since it is a gear tractor, make absolutely sure you are in neutral, with the parking brake set, and that you are not in a position to be run over if the tractor starts to move for any reason!
I would do that too, but might just try something simpler first, only because it is so easy. You could use a jumper and momentarily connect the the terminal on the starter that connects to the battery to the terminal that powers the starter solenoid.
If the starter turns you will know for sure the starter is good and the issue is in the circuitry that feeds the starter solenoid...
EDIT: If you do this, expecially since it is a gear tractor, make absolutely sure you are in neutral, with the parking brake set, and that you are not in a position to be run over if the tractor starts to move for any reason!
I noticed you didn't mention the gear range lever, is that in neutral? Mine won't do anything unless that is and I occasionally forget to put it in neutral when parking and shutting off. First thing I check when it won't turn over. Maybe a stick or twig in there stopping that switch from engaging.
Bill
Bill
I see when I read it for the third time you mentioned "Neutral" Sorry I missed that first time.
Doesn't that say that the problem is between the relay and the solenoid? I understand the belay has been replaced so is there power to the key side of the relay? And be darned sure about the chasis ground.
BigG
Well-known member
Equipment
l2501, FEL, BB, Rotary cutter, rake,spreader, roller, etc. New Holland TL80 A
I had problems with the PTO cut out preventing the tractor from starting. The switch on the fender was in the off position but the tractor would not start. There was enough rust in the control cable that the fender was in the off position but the lever that goes into the transmission did not move. A little Fluid Film in and on the cable cured the problem.
DT models don’t have cable operated PTO like the HSTs, they got a lever on floor directly connected to the shaft in trans.
When I have the no start issue it’s usually from debris in the range selector not letting it move all the way into the neutral spot to hit the safety, or sometimes it gets bumped just a little. The PTO and range switches are the only two that will keep the DTs from starting, seat switch doesn’t matter.
I know mine, L2501DT, will start standing beside it as long as the range selector is in neutral and PTO is disengaged.
Bill
I have been jumping starting from the post on the starter to th solenoid to be able to use the tractor. with the tractor running all the safety switches appear to work properly. I have metered everything and including the fuses even though they looked good visually
I jump start to use the tractor. I have metered everything including the fuses that visually looked good.
Download the workshop manual for the L2501 from kubotabooks.com. Work through the procedure which starts on page 9-S9. (I assume there is a circuit diagram in there somewhere too)
Ok, I have 12v to the ignition switch. The ignition switch meters good. My question is: there are 2 PTO safety switches. Do they work in series? Without taking the out of the case, 1 reads open and 1 reads closed. Is this correct? I can find little information from Kubota on how this system is supposed to work.
I appreciate your time.
Dunno your tractor, but according to that diagram, they ARE in series, and they provide ground to the starting relay. Quick test:
Find that starter relay and jump the ground terminal. (Use your meter to make sure it's getting 12v to the coil.)
Try to start. If the switches are your problem, the tractor should start.
That was probably too quick but I'm running out the door!
To wrap this up... I found that the microswitches on the range selector where not engaging. Even though the contacts where being made when neutral was selected, the switches themselves where not being tripped. I put an aggressive bend in the metal contact arms to ensure that the switches where tripped. Works like charm now. I cannot tell if the contact arms simply lost their original shape causing them to fail to activate the switches.