Absolutely. All the power and performance of the premium Standard L Series tractors....for less money and without the complications and potential issues with the factory emissions equipment. Couldn't agree more.
Mike
L2501 Turbo: A Journey Defined - The tractor, The comparison, The modification, The results...
- Thread starter Rdrcr
- Start date
Mike
Thank you!
I'm currently working on finalizing the Turbo oil feed and return lines. We are going to go with the AN fittings and lines which will help with the packaging and overall installation of the Turbo kit. Plus, the AN fittings/lines are high quality and look much nicer. However, it will add some additional cost to the total kit.
Mike
Question. I've recently posted this Thread over on another forum. In the process, I've re-written some of the content to add some additional detail and to make it a smoother read.
Should I update the content here, or leave it as it was originally posted?
I'm just looking for some friendly advice.
Thanks again and the tractor is still running great!
Mike
Should I update the content here, or leave it as it was originally posted?
I'm just looking for some friendly advice.
Thanks again and the tractor is still running great!
Mike
Mike,I think anyone really interested in this most likely visits the other site.
I value my membership in both sites!
I value my membership in both sites!
Hi Mike:
A miracle happened today: I found this thread. Seriously, I have been searching and googling the internet for information on how to add a turbocharger to a Kubota tractor, without success. Until today. I literally thought I was going to have to go it alone. This is a Godsend.
Quick background. I built a log home up in the Rocky Mountains 2 years ago at an altitude just shy of 8000'. Yes, 8000'. Of course we get incredible amounts of snow, and I purchased a Kubota B2650 tractor with low hours and mated it to a B2784 front-mount snow blower to keep my 150' driveway clear (we have year-round access).
To say I'm thrilled with the performance of the machine would be an outright lie. Yes, it does the job, but I'm constantly backing off the forward pedal and keeping the RPM's up and still getting A LOT of rolling coal. Last year, the backside of the snow blower was solid black by the end of the season. If you go by the standard horsepower derating curve (3% per 1000'), then I am loosing 24% of my available horsepower at 8000'. The engine in the B2650 is rated at 26 horsepower at sea level. If you apply the this calculation, the rated horsepower drops to just under 20. Sad.
I have the tools, cash, desire, and "nerve" (love that term) to attempt an install. It is mid-March right now and I do not want to attempt this until spring or summer for obvious reasons. So with this in mind I have a few questions for you, if you'd be so kind to address:
* You used a Mitsubishi MHI TD025 turbocharger on your machine for sea level operation. In your opinion, would this still be a good choice for my altitude, or do I need to look at something larger?
* What EGT monitor (brand, model) did you use, and did it include a gauge?
* Was there any break-in period for the turbocharger? Could you run it at full speed immediately after installation?
* How much money do you feel you have into this upgrade? What do you estimate it will cost me to implement this on my machine (ballpark figure)?
Thank you for taking the time to document your trials on this forum, this gives me great hope that I can successfully add a turbo to my machine without blowing it up.
Solo
A miracle happened today: I found this thread. Seriously, I have been searching and googling the internet for information on how to add a turbocharger to a Kubota tractor, without success. Until today. I literally thought I was going to have to go it alone. This is a Godsend.
Quick background. I built a log home up in the Rocky Mountains 2 years ago at an altitude just shy of 8000'. Yes, 8000'. Of course we get incredible amounts of snow, and I purchased a Kubota B2650 tractor with low hours and mated it to a B2784 front-mount snow blower to keep my 150' driveway clear (we have year-round access).
To say I'm thrilled with the performance of the machine would be an outright lie. Yes, it does the job, but I'm constantly backing off the forward pedal and keeping the RPM's up and still getting A LOT of rolling coal. Last year, the backside of the snow blower was solid black by the end of the season. If you go by the standard horsepower derating curve (3% per 1000'), then I am loosing 24% of my available horsepower at 8000'. The engine in the B2650 is rated at 26 horsepower at sea level. If you apply the this calculation, the rated horsepower drops to just under 20. Sad.
I have the tools, cash, desire, and "nerve" (love that term) to attempt an install. It is mid-March right now and I do not want to attempt this until spring or summer for obvious reasons. So with this in mind I have a few questions for you, if you'd be so kind to address:
* You used a Mitsubishi MHI TD025 turbocharger on your machine for sea level operation. In your opinion, would this still be a good choice for my altitude, or do I need to look at something larger?
* What EGT monitor (brand, model) did you use, and did it include a gauge?
* Was there any break-in period for the turbocharger? Could you run it at full speed immediately after installation?
* How much money do you feel you have into this upgrade? What do you estimate it will cost me to implement this on my machine (ballpark figure)?
Thank you for taking the time to document your trials on this forum, this gives me great hope that I can successfully add a turbo to my machine without blowing it up.
Solo
You’re welcome!
I’m glad you found the thread!
Sounds like you would benefit greatly from a Turbo setup!
Your B2650 is powered by a D1305 1.3L 3 cylinder diesel engine. The MHI TD025 was originally developed for use on Kubota’s D1503 (1.5L) diesel engine. The Mitsubishi MHI TD025 pushes more than enough air and can support up to 90 HP. It’s plenty of Turbo for your application and your operating elevation. I would highly recommend the MHI TD025 for your tractor.
You may actually be able to install a Turbo setup, run cleaner emissions, restore all lost power (perhaps pick up some additional power) and retain the stock fuel settings at your elevation.
Now, if you want a significant power increase…then you’d have to adjust the factory fuel settings.
I purchased all our EGT equipment from;
Home | The Sensor Connection Motorsports Temperature and Position Sensors
No break-in period. We verified that we had good oil pressure to lubricate the Turbo and ran the tractor. However, we didn’t apply heavy loads (full boost pressure) until we began adjusting the fuel settings.
If you’re looking at fabricating a similar Turbo setup, using an OEM Turbocharger, all stainless steel components, hardware and piping, and packaging the complete system like we have….to OEM standards, then you’re looking at somewhere around $3K-$4K depending on your skill level.
You can probably cut that amount in half if you want to use a Chinese Turbocharger and less expensive materials and don’t care about packaging/appearance of the complete Turbo system.
Mike
Thanks for the reply Mike. I have been researching and collecting data on all the necessary parts. I can get an original OEM Mitsubishi TD025-M for $750 - $850, so that should shave off quite a chunk of the cost.
Did you know there is an exhaust manifold available with a triangular 3-hole flange that mates up to the turbo? I found that during my research, although I may still go with a custom "sandwich" adapter. I am also looking at the possibility of flipping (rotating) the turbocharger 180 degrees to shorten the intake and exhaust piping. Not sure about that yet, will need to do some more evaluation.
Thanks again for your help. Maybe with some luck I'll start this project in a few months and start a new thread.
Solo
Did you know there is an exhaust manifold available with a triangular 3-hole flange that mates up to the turbo? I found that during my research, although I may still go with a custom "sandwich" adapter. I am also looking at the possibility of flipping (rotating) the turbocharger 180 degrees to shorten the intake and exhaust piping. Not sure about that yet, will need to do some more evaluation.
Thanks again for your help. Maybe with some luck I'll start this project in a few months and start a new thread.
Solo
kubotafreak
Well-known member
Equipment
GRAND l6060, L3560, B6100, gr2100, tg 1860, g1800, g1900, g2160
Rdrcr ,
Have you ever thought of adding a pressure compensated fuel adjuster? In a sense you get the best of both worlds. The valve allows the fuel rack to be at a lower setting when not producing boost. Then when the sense line registers boost it brings up the fuel setting. Just a little suggestion to keep the fuel usage more reasonable. I like your work! Watch out for the constabulary if you know what mean.
Have you ever thought of adding a pressure compensated fuel adjuster? In a sense you get the best of both worlds. The valve allows the fuel rack to be at a lower setting when not producing boost. Then when the sense line registers boost it brings up the fuel setting. Just a little suggestion to keep the fuel usage more reasonable. I like your work! Watch out for the constabulary if you know what mean.
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That’s a pretty reasonable price for the MHI TD025. Not bad.
Yes, there are several Kubota 3 cylinder engines running the TD025 Turbochargers with exhaust manifolds that allow for direct fitment. If you use one of those manifolds, the Turbo location is fixed and it may place the Turbo in a location where you will experience interference problems (like the L2501). We opted for an adapter that places the Turbo where we want it.
You’ll have to get a Turbo and then play around with the location to get it where you want.
You’re welcome and I’ll get you the tubing sizes we used…
Mike
Thanks for the suggestion. We’ll have to look into it and see if it is something that can be adapted to this application.
The biggest issue with the rack adjustment is that if you call for too much fuel, you’ll have runaway EGT’s. The only way to fix that, is to reduce fuel or apply more boost pressure.
Mike
I’d have to dig into my notes but, I can name a few;
D902-TE4
D1105-T
D1503-M-T
D1803-CR-TI-EB4
Mike
Thanks for the update Mike, but it's a little unclear where the connections are going. Could you maybe clarify them a bit? Thanks.
Solo
Solo
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^^^^^
Illustrated above is the Turbo oil drain AN lines and fittings. The top of the AN hose is fitted up to the bottom of the Turbocharger while the other end of the AN hose is fitted up to the OEM engine block drain hole.
I'll take some additional photos once I have the Turbo Oil feed lines fitted up.
Mike
Illustrated above is the Turbo oil drain AN lines and fittings. The top of the AN hose is fitted up to the bottom of the Turbocharger while the other end of the AN hose is fitted up to the OEM engine block drain hole.
I'll take some additional photos once I have the Turbo Oil feed lines fitted up.
Mike
I thought I was a bit closer to getting the Turbo Oil drain lines completed but, unfortunately, it looks like I have a leak;
I'm assuming this AN line is defective. I have a new one on the way and will hopefully have this resolved by the weekend.
Mike
I'm assuming this AN line is defective. I have a new one on the way and will hopefully have this resolved by the weekend.
Mike
Nice job. I was wondering if this setup will work on the LX2610. I know I had a Subaru Forester XT (turbo model) which I modified (larger turbo, downpipe and exhaust). I had to buy a Banks programer and put a new tune in to run at its full potential and keep it with in certain perimeters such as boost and fuel ratio's. There must be an application where you can connect it to a laptop to adjust the different settings? The difference is mechanical fuel injection verses electronic fuel injection. I did the same thing to my Can-Am 850 Outlander. To meet EPA emissions manufactures are forced to run engines lean such as my 4 wheeler. Running engines lean causes them to run hot for lack of fuel and even more so when you add an aftermarket exhaust. Good luck with this setup. Once my warranty is over I'd be interested in adding a turbo.
^^^^
The LX2610 has a different engine than the L2501/2 but, the concept would be the same....and adding a Turbo would indeed produce additional power with a fuel adjustment. It definitely can be done!
Mike
The LX2610 has a different engine than the L2501/2 but, the concept would be the same....and adding a Turbo would indeed produce additional power with a fuel adjustment. It definitely can be done!
Mike
The AN hose might not be leaking. I may have a AN fitting issue (or lack of a proper AN adapter issue) that is causing the oil leak.
I'll have this issue fully identified and resolved this weekend.
Mike
I'll have this issue fully identified and resolved this weekend.
Mike