L2501 Turbo: A Journey Defined - The tractor, The comparison, The modification, The results...

[Trash Panda]

The kit looks absolutely amazing, great work.

Now, I need to somehow convince the wife that I need a 3k dollar kit to run my rotary cutter through pasture grass, plow snow & take garbage to the dumpster down the road.

 

[cthomas]

Yes that kit looks awesome. Are you planning on other kits for other models? Like a LX2610.

 

[Hahnsolo]

Hey Mike:

I'm have most of my turbo parts together and am just getting ready to start a build thread soon. I have not been able to locate an off-the-shelf gasket for the junction between the exhaust output port of the turbo and the flange that connects the exhaust pipe to said port. Did you find one online or just make your own? If so, what type of material did you use?

Solo

 

[Rdrcr]

^^^^
That's great news! Looking forward to learning about your progress!

Here are the OEM Kubota gaskets that you'll need:
Kubota Turbo to Adapter Flange Gasket - #16292-17100
Kubota Turbo to Exhaust Flange Gasket - #16292-17110
Kubota Exhaust Manifold to Muffler Gasket - #T0070-16420

Mike

 

[Rdrcr]

Yes that kit looks awesome. Are you planning on other kits for other models? Like a LX2610.

Thank you!

Potentially. We'll be focusing our attention on the Standard L Series 'sized' 25HP tractors and competitors first before venturing into the LX tractors. But, it is absolutely something that we can do. Do you have a donor tractor you'd like to donate?

Mike

 

[Rdrcr]

The kit looks absolutely amazing, great work.

Now, I need to somehow convince the wife that I need a 3k dollar kit to run my rotary cutter through pasture grass, plow snow & take garbage to the dumpster down the road.

Thank you!

Well, that just depends on how you formulate your argument. You gotta tell her the L2501 power just isn't cutting it and you need to upgrade to a new L3901 / L3902 but, if you just buy and install the Turbo Kit on your L2501, you'll be saving $2,000 on an L3901 purchase and a whopping $4,000 on a L3902 purchase.
See, its just simple math!

Mike

 

[Hahnsolo]

Oh, you're good. . .

Solo

 

[Hahnsolo]

Hey Mike, quick question:

Did you use any anti-seize or locktite on your turbo assembly?

Solo

 

[Rdrcr]

^^^^^
No loctite. Anti-sieze, yes!

Mike

 

[Hahnsolo]

Got it - thanks Mike!

Solo

 

[Hahnsolo]

Hey Mike:

Could you do me a favor and show me some close ups of the oil inlet and outlet lines on your turbo? Is there a flange I need to buy for one side? Also, did you put an oil pressure sensor near the turbo? Thanks.

Solo

 

[Rdrcr]

Hey Mike:

Could you do me a favor and show me some close ups of the oil inlet and outlet lines on your turbo? Is there a flange I need to buy for one side? Also, did you put an oil pressure sensor near the turbo? Thanks.

Solo

It depends on how and what type of hoses/lines you are planning to use. Are you going with AN fittings and hoses? Or, are you going to run standard hoses? If you're running standard hoses...I'll send you a custom flange that we made. If you are going with AN fittings and hoses then you'll need an adapter...and you'll need to figure out which sizes you are going with before moving forward.

L2501-Instructions

Professional Service

www.s2tpp.com

Check out illustrations 11, 12, 14, 15, 16 & 17.
If you need any additional close up or detail pictures, let me know.

Mike

 

[Hahnsolo]

Thanks for the education. I did some more research and know which way to go now. Nice assembly instructions by the way. I wish you much success with your venture.

Solo

 

[Hahnsolo]

Hey Mike couple quick questions:

I was reviewing your assembly instructions, and I'm trying to figure out where you got the oil drain fitting that installs on the bottom of the turbo. Is that off-the-shelf or custom?

When attaching the right angle oil fitting into the engine block, there was no mention of any compound or paste to prevent it from leaking under pressure. Can you please provide insight?

Also, you didn't mention applying any anti-seize to any bolts or fittings. Is that not a requirement? Thanks for your help.

Solo

 

[Rdrcr]

Hey Mike couple quick questions:

I was reviewing your assembly instructions, and I'm trying to figure out where you got the oil drain fitting that installs on the bottom of the turbo. Is that off-the-shelf or custom?

When attaching the right angle oil fitting into the engine block, there was no mention of any compound or paste to prevent it from leaking under pressure. Can you please provide insight?

Also, you didn't mention applying any anti-seize to any bolts or fittings. Is that not a requirement? Thanks for your help.

Solo

You'll need a fitting for the Turbo oil drain. If you're going to use standard hose, I have a fitting I can send you. If you're going to use AN lines, you'll need to determine which size AN lines you're going to use.

We're using a 6AN oil drain line. However, the Turbo fitting we're using is an off-the-shelf 10AN fitting and we use an additional fitting to reduce it to 6AN. In the future, if it makes sense, I'll design and CNC machine a one piece 6AN Turbo drain fitting.

The AN fittings we're using don't require any sealant and we haven't experienced any leaks under pressure. Though, I don't think the use of a teflon sealant would create any issues.

We're pre-assembling the Turbo/Adapter/Downpipe assembly which is why it isn't mentioned in the instructions (perhaps that is an oversight that needs to be modified). We're using anti-seize on all the stainless steel hardware.

Mike

 

[Hahnsolo]

The real confusion is the thread type in the engine block where the oil pressure sender unit is removed. An online search reveals a jumble of all sorts of numbers from 10mmx1.0 to 1/8" NPT to British threads. What type of threads are on the adapter that screws into the engine block in your kits?

Solo

 

[Rdrcr]

The real confusion is the thread type in the engine block where the oil pressure sender unit is removed. An online search reveals a jumble of all sorts of numbers from 10mmx1.0 to 1/8" NPT to British threads. What type of threads are on the adapter that screws into the engine block in your kits?

Solo

I’d suggest removing your oil pressure sender and measure the threads. The L2501 is 1/8 NTP and that’s what we’re using.

Mike

 

[Hahnsolo]

Ok thanks, that sounds about right. I took it out and measured it in a mm size gauge and it looked to be a 10mm x 1.00, but with the tapered threads it made it difficult to determine. Apparently 1/8" NPT is very close to this same size. If you say it's 1/8" NPT, that's good enough for me.

The other thing that is a little puzzling is the oil return hole bored in the engine block. It looks like it's just a smooth hole with no threads. Is that correct? Do you just push the end of the tubing into it without a fitting?

Thanks so much for your help and patience - it's greatly appreciated.

Solo

 

[Rdrcr]

Ok thanks, that sounds about right. I took it out and measured it in a mm size gauge and it looked to be a 10mm x 1.00, but with the tapered threads it made it difficult to determine. Apparently 1/8" NPT is very close to this same size. If you say it's 1/8" NPT, that's good enough for me.

The other thing that is a little puzzling is the oil return hole bored in the engine block. It looks like it's just a smooth hole with no threads. Is that correct? Do you just push the end of the tubing into it without a fitting?

Thanks so much for your help and patience - it's greatly appreciated.

Solo

You’re totally welcome!

Yes, the engine oil return hole is a smooth bore. We custom machine a plastic/nylon fitting and press-fit to the hole.

Mike

 

[Hahnsolo]

Thanks Mike, I'll come up with something.

Solo