L2501 Buying Advice

[KubotaRGVman]

Hi All

Brand new to the forum and recent convert from Deere. Never thought I would consider something else however I cant ignore it any longer. In the process of moving to the Rio Grand Valley to a 6 acre property. I was planning on using a JD 755 to mow my lawn however oil leak couldn't be fixed so i ended up returning it to the dealer. Long story short I have a bad taste in my mouth at the moment.

The valley seems to be flooded with Kubota’s, especially in the sub division I am moving to. Seems to be preferred so I dug deeper. After lots of research it seems to be a no brainer given 0% APR and the top notch quality of the machine. Not to mention a dealer 15 minutes away.

The primary purpose of the tractor is to mow the grass. I am pairing it with the Land Pride FDR1660 finish mower. Anyone have this combo to comment on? Seems like a solid set up. I am not interested in a belly mower given the annoyance of putting on/taking off. Learned that from the 755. I plan on having this machine for the rest of my life. I don't want to be changing the belly mower over as an old man.

I am also getting the loader. If the majority of my work will be on the lawn, are the R4’s best, would the R14’s tear up the lawn more? Not sure what to do. My land is flat as can be and dry.

also DT vs HST. I read some posts and learned hst runs hot. South Texas is very hot. Understood hst is easiest for mowing but maybe not as much pulling power as a gear box. Does anyone mow their lawn with DT machine? I grew up on moline dt tractors and appreciate a clutch. I can also appreciate the hst and what it offers.

Super excited about this purchase. Just looking for some more opinions.
Thanks!

 

[DDCD]

Lots of 2501s on this forum, myself included. While I do not mow with it, the HST is amazing for loader work. I have R1 AG tires because I do a lot of work in the mud. If you're dry I would guess the other options would work.

Plenty of reading on this forum about types of rear mowers. My next mower for mowing about the same acreage as you will probably be a 6' flail. If you get a rear remote you can do hydraulic shift around obstacles.

For the areas really close to the house, you'll still need a push mower or other option, especially if you mow with the loader on.

If you have trees, or brush, get a third function in case you want a grapple. I got a third function, and two rear remotes. I should've got 3.

 

[number two]

Get the HST model!
You will not like the PTO on the gear model.
No worries on the heat.
Good Luck!

 

[JimmyJazz]

I have not read of anyone experiencing difficulty operating their tractor due to the heat. Get the hydrostatic transmission. Maybe you can "trick" your wife and/or kids into mowing with it since its easier to operate. Resale might be better also. Good luck. You will love your Kubota.

 

[PaulL]

The only thing I think that DT is better than HST is long stretches of ground engaging work. If you're going out to plow your field every day, DT all the way. Anything that's stop start HST is better: mowing, loader work, grading the driveway, moving snow (probably not much of that in Texas). If you really had an oil temp problem you could probably get an oil cooler, someone will make one if it's a problem others have experienced. The same transmission goes in the L3301, L3901, L4701. I'd guess that in the 25hp model it's not under that much load.

Mid mount mower.....I'll put some ideas even though your mind is made up. My B2601 has a mid mount mower, the deck is all metal. So you just put the machine in 4wd and drive over it. The attach brackets come down far enough to connect without dragging the mower around, once you know where to stop. The only fiddly bit is attaching the PTO shaft, I can do that without lying on the ground (I used to have to lie on the ground with the BX). I find that if I lift the mower deck off the ground a bit before attaching the PTO it's much easier - the blades can spin (when it's flat on the ground the grass stops them spinning - if I took it off on concrete it'd be different). I expect to still be taking mine off when I'm 80, and there's nothing I'm doing I couldn't do at that age....as long as I can still bend over I can do it. 3ph implements aren't necessarily easy to attach either.

Conversely, I find the mid-mount to ride much better - a rear implement makes your machine pitch more over bumps. Depending on your terrain you may also need front ballast, which also makes the machine pitch more and adds weight to your lawn. And your significant other may find mowing with a mid-mount much more intuitive. Of course, as others have said, a flail also has some great attributes, and a RFM has some benefits. Horses for courses.

You're looking L machines, no mid-PTO anyway. Although the Grand-L is a great machine, nice transmission, mid-PTO, comes with a factory cab that'd be nice in that Texas sun....you'd be the envy of your neighbours (well, at least they'd be talking about you )

Anyway, to your other questions. I believe R14s would be better than R4s for turf damage. If you're very dry I'd question whether turfs might be suitable - on dry ground I think they give similar or better traction than barred tires, and definitely less turf damage. Not sure what the tradeoffs are on sand - are you sandy/dusty? I think that's all about running low pressure though rather than any particular tread pattern.

On the L2501 - I'd take a close look at the L3302 if I were buying a new L today. Split brakes on the left is a big deal, electronic PTO clutch is nice, bit more power, a few more comfort features. I don't think the price is that much different, it'll be a much nicer tractor for a longer time I think. Of course, DPF and all that, but I personally think that's a known and sorted technology now. The L33 would presumably swing a 72 inch RFM. That'd be nice. Or a wide flail - depends if you're really finish mowing - with 6 acres you could do it all with the flail, probably wouldn't do it all with an RFM?

I agree on loader. You really need a quick attach for the implement on the front of the loader. Definitely forks, perhaps a grapple if you have trees and therefore limbs etc that need moving. But Texas might be all sand and shrubs, not sure. If you're moving stones, in fact anything with a loader, you need ballast. The mower is ballast, but a ballast box is very inexpensive and to my mind better. I'm not personally a fan of filling tires on a machine you use for mowing.

Neil from Messicks had a recent YouTube on putting a filter in the neck of your fuel filler. Take a look for that, looks like a good idea. Also if you get an L2501 there's a secondary air filter that the L3301 upwards all have, the L2501 doesn't for some reason. It's like $20 to buy, if you're in dusty country might be a good idea.

Actually, saying that, if you're looking at Kubotas make sure you've looked at the Messicks videos. Lots of good info on the machines, and there's one on the L-02 series quite recently. Some of the new features can be bought and added to the L2501.

 

[Jchonline]

How close are you getting in and around the home? L2501 is a pretty big machine to be mowing up close to a house with. If you are, maybe consider a B2601 or LX2610.

 

[DDCD]

L2501DT does not have the same transmission as the other L series. It's an awful single stage, not like the more common two stage.

 

[woodman55]

Have you considered a LX2610 with the factory cab, that comes with A/C ? I would think a cab with a/c would be a great thing to have in Texas. Also I think the R14's would be a great choice for a tire.

 

[jimh406]

I think I would lean more toward the B2601 for finish mowing only. It's a bit smaller/lighter, but still should do the same things. Generally speaking the difference in size besides wear/tear on your grass is how fast you can get things done.

I still have to do some weed eating etc even with a riding lawn mower.

Another thought is buy a Poulan Pro or similar mower at Home Depot or similar. Mine is 5 years old and still doing just fine.

You don't mention what you plan to do with the tractor other than mowing, so maybe that is enough for now.

 

[Rdrcr]

Are you mowing around obstacles? Do you have any hills on the property?

The L2501 is a great tractor! I believe it’ll serve you well and you’ll definitely appreciate the quality of the machine. I highly recommend the R14 tires for lawn tasks. I’ve been very happy with my R14’s.

Mike

 

[jyoutz]

The only thing I think that DT is better than HST is long stretches of ground engaging work. If you're going out to plow your field every day, DT all the way. Anything that's stop start HST is better: mowing, loader work, grading the driveway, moving snow (probably not much of that in Texas). If you really had an oil temp problem you could probably get an oil cooler, someone will make one if it's a problem others have experienced. The same transmission goes in the L3301, L3901, L4701. I'd guess that in the 25hp model it's not under that much load.

Mid mount mower.....I'll put some ideas even though your mind is made up. My B2601 has a mid mount mower, the deck is all metal. So you just put the machine in 4wd and drive over it. The attach brackets come down far enough to connect without dragging the mower around, once you know where to stop. The only fiddly bit is attaching the PTO shaft, I can do that without lying on the ground (I used to have to lie on the ground with the BX). I find that if I lift the mower deck off the ground a bit before attaching the PTO it's much easier - the blades can spin (when it's flat on the ground the grass stops them spinning - if I took it off on concrete it'd be different). I expect to still be taking mine off when I'm 80, and there's nothing I'm doing I couldn't do at that age....as long as I can still bend over I can do it. 3ph implements aren't necessarily easy to attach either.

Conversely, I find the mid-mount to ride much better - a rear implement makes your machine pitch more over bumps. Depending on your terrain you may also need front ballast, which also makes the machine pitch more and adds weight to your lawn. And your significant other may find mowing with a mid-mount much more intuitive. Of course, as others have said, a flail also has some great attributes, and a RFM has some benefits. Horses for courses.

You're looking L machines, no mid-PTO anyway. Although the Grand-L is a great machine, nice transmission, mid-PTO, comes with a factory cab that'd be nice in that Texas sun....you'd be the envy of your neighbours (well, at least they'd be talking about you )

Anyway, to your other questions. I believe R14s would be better than R4s for turf damage. If you're very dry I'd question whether turfs might be suitable - on dry ground I think they give similar or better traction than barred tires, and definitely less turf damage. Not sure what the tradeoffs are on sand - are you sandy/dusty? I think that's all about running low pressure though rather than any particular tread pattern.

On the L2501 - I'd take a close look at the L3302 if I were buying a new L today. Split brakes on the left is a big deal, electronic PTO clutch is nice, bit more power, a few more comfort features. I don't think the price is that much different, it'll be a much nicer tractor for a longer time I think. Of course, DPF and all that, but I personally think that's a known and sorted technology now. The L33 would presumably swing a 72 inch RFM. That'd be nice. Or a wide flail - depends if you're really finish mowing - with 6 acres you could do it all with the flail, probably wouldn't do it all with an RFM?

I agree on loader. You really need a quick attach for the implement on the front of the loader. Definitely forks, perhaps a grapple if you have trees and therefore limbs etc that need moving. But Texas might be all sand and shrubs, not sure. If you're moving stones, in fact anything with a loader, you need ballast. The mower is ballast, but a ballast box is very inexpensive and to my mind better. I'm not personally a fan of filling tires on a machine you use for mowing.

Neil from Messicks had a recent YouTube on putting a filter in the neck of your fuel filler. Take a look for that, looks like a good idea. Also if you get an L2501 there's a secondary air filter that the L3301 upwards all have, the L2501 doesn't for some reason. It's like $20 to buy, if you're in dusty country might be a good idea.

Actually, saying that, if you're looking at Kubotas make sure you've looked at the Messicks videos. Lots of good info on the machines, and there's one on the L-02 series quite recently. Some of the new features can be bought and added to the L2501.

If you are mowing irritated sod grass, a mid mount mower is ok. But I found that for mowing dry field grass, the mid mount mower is undesirable. It throws chaft into the radiator screen and clogs it up, causing overheating.

 

[Shekkie]

My opinion……..get a zero turn to mow. A used commercial in good shape can be had for about what the Kubota MMM goes for and will cut better with less ground damage, do it faster and with more comfort.

 

[KubotaRGVman]

How close are you getting in and around the home? L2501 is a pretty big machine to be mowing up close to a house with. If you are, maybe consider a B2601 or LX2610.

I started looking at the B2601 but then saw the L wasnt all that much more. I would rather have a little more machine. I am 6’6” so need a little room. I know the weed wacker will get good use with this set up. I am planning on sitting on them both this coming week to really narrow it down.

 

[KubotaRGVman]

I think I would lean more toward the B2601 for finish mowing only. It's a bit smaller/lighter, but still should do the same things. Generally speaking the difference in size besides wear/tear on your grass is how fast you can get things done.

I still have to do some weed eating etc even with a riding lawn mower.

Another thought is buy a Poulan Pro or similar mower at Home Depot or similar. Mine is 5 years old and still doing just fine.

You don't mention what you plan to do with the tractor other than mowing, so maybe that is enough for now.

i think I just like the idea of having a slightly larger machine we plan on getting some horses and possibly land in the future therefore I dont want to go too small. We plan on some gardening as well so a tiller maybe next.

 

[KubotaRGVman]

Are you mowing around obstacles? Do you have any hills on the property?

The L2501 is a great tractor! I believe it’ll serve you well and you’ll definitely appreciate the quality of the machine. I highly recommend the R14 tires for lawn tasks. I’ve been very happy with my R14’s.

Mike

Flat as can be with no obstacles. It is a cleared lot. I do plan on planting some palm trees and landscape the house but will do that strategically.

 

[KubotaRGVman]

My opinion……..get a zero turn to mow. A used commercial in good shape can be had for about what the Kubota MMM goes for and will cut better with less ground damage, do it faster and with more comfort.

if I get a zero turn there is zero chance of a tractor. No way the wife will go for both. The wife actually promotes the tractor over the zero turn on coolness alone.

 

[KubotaRGVman]

The only thing I think that DT is better than HST is long stretches of ground engaging work. If you're going out to plow your field every day, DT all the way. Anything that's stop start HST is better: mowing, loader work, grading the driveway, moving snow (probably not much of that in Texas). If you really had an oil temp problem you could probably get an oil cooler, someone will make one if it's a problem others have experienced. The same transmission goes in the L3301, L3901, L4701. I'd guess that in the 25hp model it's not under that much load.

Mid mount mower.....I'll put some ideas even though your mind is made up. My B2601 has a mid mount mower, the deck is all metal. So you just put the machine in 4wd and drive over it. The attach brackets come down far enough to connect without dragging the mower around, once you know where to stop. The only fiddly bit is attaching the PTO shaft, I can do that without lying on the ground (I used to have to lie on the ground with the BX). I find that if I lift the mower deck off the ground a bit before attaching the PTO it's much easier - the blades can spin (when it's flat on the ground the grass stops them spinning - if I took it off on concrete it'd be different). I expect to still be taking mine off when I'm 80, and there's nothing I'm doing I couldn't do at that age....as long as I can still bend over I can do it. 3ph implements aren't necessarily easy to attach either.

Conversely, I find the mid-mount to ride much better - a rear implement makes your machine pitch more over bumps. Depending on your terrain you may also need front ballast, which also makes the machine pitch more and adds weight to your lawn. And your significant other may find mowing with a mid-mount much more intuitive. Of course, as others have said, a flail also has some great attributes, and a RFM has some benefits. Horses for courses.

You're looking L machines, no mid-PTO anyway. Although the Grand-L is a great machine, nice transmission, mid-PTO, comes with a factory cab that'd be nice in that Texas sun....you'd be the envy of your neighbours (well, at least they'd be talking about you )

Anyway, to your other questions. I believe R14s would be better than R4s for turf damage. If you're very dry I'd question whether turfs might be suitable - on dry ground I think they give similar or better traction than barred tires, and definitely less turf damage. Not sure what the tradeoffs are on sand - are you sandy/dusty? I think that's all about running low pressure though rather than any particular tread pattern.

On the L2501 - I'd take a close look at the L3302 if I were buying a new L today. Split brakes on the left is a big deal, electronic PTO clutch is nice, bit more power, a few more comfort features. I don't think the price is that much different, it'll be a much nicer tractor for a longer time I think. Of course, DPF and all that, but I personally think that's a known and sorted technology now. The L33 would presumably swing a 72 inch RFM. That'd be nice. Or a wide flail - depends if you're really finish mowing - with 6 acres you could do it all with the flail, probably wouldn't do it all with an RFM?

I agree on loader. You really need a quick attach for the implement on the front of the loader. Definitely forks, perhaps a grapple if you have trees and therefore limbs etc that need moving. But Texas might be all sand and shrubs, not sure. If you're moving stones, in fact anything with a loader, you need ballast. The mower is ballast, but a ballast box is very inexpensive and to my mind better. I'm not personally a fan of filling tires on a machine you use for mowing.

Neil from Messicks had a recent YouTube on putting a filter in the neck of your fuel filler. Take a look for that, looks like a good idea. Also if you get an L2501 there's a secondary air filter that the L3301 upwards all have, the L2501 doesn't for some reason. It's like $20 to buy, if you're in dusty country might be a good idea.

Actually, saying that, if you're looking at Kubotas make sure you've looked at the Messicks videos. Lots of good info on the machines, and there's one on the L-02 series quite recently. Some of the new features can be bought and added to the L2501.

a wealth of knowledge. Thanks so much. I have to keep the cost down.

 

[KubotaRGVman]

Lots of 2501s on this forum, myself included. While I do not mow with it, the HST is amazing for loader work. I have R1 AG tires because I do a lot of work in the mud. If you're dry I would guess the other options would work.

Plenty of reading on this forum about types of rear mowers. My next mower for mowing about the same acreage as you will probably be a 6' flail. If you get a rear remote you can do hydraulic shift around obstacles.

For the areas really close to the house, you'll still need a push mower or other option, especially if you mow with the loader on.

If you have trees, or brush, get a third function in case you want a grapple. I got a third function, and two rear remotes. I should've got 3.

flail mowers are very interesting however i got the impression the finish is not very nice. I have no idea given I never even saw one in person. I imagine it would be much easier to mow with and more versatile in the pasture. Very interested to hear more.

 

[Trapper Bob]

i think I just like the idea of having a slightly larger machine we plan on getting some horses and possibly land in the future therefore I dont want to go too small. We plan on some gardening as well so a tiller maybe next.

Get the most HP you can afford. I do not recall hearing anyone say, “My tractor is to strong”. I have heard the opposite. & it sounds like you have “plans”.

 

[jyoutz]

flail mowers are very interesting however i got the impression the finish is not very nice. I have no idea given I never even saw one in person. I imagine it would be much easier to mow with and more versatile in the pasture. Very interested to hear more.

They aren’t cheap.