The back half of the shaft assy for external hyd pump for FEL on a L245DT is stripped of it's teeth. I'm looking for a used part or suggestions to get this operating again. 
L245dt Front End Loader Hyd pump driveshaft
- Thread starter TractorBill
- Start date
Mine doesn't have an external pump, it runs off of the tractor hydraulics. Works just fine. Might be an option worth considering if you have trouble fixing what you have now.
Thanks MagKarl, Being a novice not sure how it would hookup into the main PTO. any suggestions or images?
Pictures please! I am not sure if you have a double sprocket chained together or Flexi-coupler?
Pat
Pat
It is a double sprocket chained together. Will take some pictures and post them for you.
Thanks for your help.
Thanks for your help.
North Idaho Wolfman
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TractorBill,
What MagKarl was talking about is you would take the pump off the system and set it aside and pipe (connect) the plumbing it to the tractors Hydraulic system that is already there.
Now as far as your issue, is the male shaft end stripped or the female shaft end stripped, or both?
And yes pictures of the shafts would help as there is several different possible setups for this.
What MagKarl was talking about is you would take the pump off the system and set it aside and pipe (connect) the plumbing it to the tractors Hydraulic system that is already there.
Now as far as your issue, is the male shaft end stripped or the female shaft end stripped, or both?
And yes pictures of the shafts would help as there is several different possible setups for this.
MagKarl, Here are some photos of the end of the crankshaft, overall shaft assy and inside end of shaft coupler. I interest in hearing what options there are outside of spot welding coupler to crankshaft. Thanks for your imput.
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North Idaho Wolfman
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The fact that you have set screws on the coupling for the crank side of the coupling helps.
I would get new set screws, and possibly up them a size or two, and if there is no set screw on the opposite side of the coupling, I would put one in there too.
Then I would temporally install the shaft back on the crank, drill one 3/8 hole threw the crank, to pin the shaft to the crank.
Remove the coupling and shaft, clean both sides with brake parts cleaner.
Coat both the shaft and the inside of the coupling with epoxy, reinstall the shaft install and tighten new cross bolt, tighten set screws, let harden for required time.
I would get new set screws, and possibly up them a size or two, and if there is no set screw on the opposite side of the coupling, I would put one in there too.
Then I would temporally install the shaft back on the crank, drill one 3/8 hole threw the crank, to pin the shaft to the crank.
Remove the coupling and shaft, clean both sides with brake parts cleaner.
Coat both the shaft and the inside of the coupling with epoxy, reinstall the shaft install and tighten new cross bolt, tighten set screws, let harden for required time.
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Hello Bill
I repaired a L225 a few year back with a taper lock agreement.I believe we used a 1" taper lock with a chain coupling . The taper lock will lock down on the splines and not spin.You can get these parts at your local bearing supply. The unit we repaired is still in service.The other option is to plumb in to the tractor hydraulics. The loader will work about 3/4 as fast as it does with the front pump.
Good Luck Lance
I repaired a L225 a few year back with a taper lock agreement.I believe we used a 1" taper lock with a chain coupling . The taper lock will lock down on the splines and not spin.You can get these parts at your local bearing supply. The unit we repaired is still in service.The other option is to plumb in to the tractor hydraulics. The loader will work about 3/4 as fast as it does with the front pump.
Good Luck Lance
Set screws on coupling will help, but i have to (slightly)disagree with wolfman.
Using set screws 180 from each other will only cause them to loosen. 2nd set screw needs to be at 90 degrees from first one. Oversize is good.
The q-type bushing taper lock work very well. Any farm supply should be able to provide you with what you need. A weld on hub with a taper lock bushing is what you will need, cut off chewed part of hub and weld new one in its place.
Using set screws 180 from each other will only cause them to loosen. 2nd set screw needs to be at 90 degrees from first one. Oversize is good.
The q-type bushing taper lock work very well. Any farm supply should be able to provide you with what you need. A weld on hub with a taper lock bushing is what you will need, cut off chewed part of hub and weld new one in its place.
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Hi Lance
How would it be plumbed off the tractor hydraulics? Can't find anything that would show where to plumb it into.
Thanks Bill
North Idaho Wolfman
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On a L245 to tap into the hydraulic system, you would need to get the adapter block the bolts on and allows you to tap into the hydraulics.
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Hello Bill
You will need a special aluminum block that is drilled for fitting that replaces the existing block on you tractor. The new block will have and in and out to you loader valve . You just run hydraulic hoses from the block to the loader valve.If you send me a PM I can supply you with a kit with every thing to do this.
Good Luck Lance
You will need a special aluminum block that is drilled for fitting that replaces the existing block on you tractor. The new block will have and in and out to you loader valve . You just run hydraulic hoses from the block to the loader valve.If you send me a PM I can supply you with a kit with every thing to do this.
Good Luck Lance
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
PM= Private Message :
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