i went to start my tractor today and the low coolant level light came on. i shut the tractor off and checked the coolant resevoir and it was at the low mark. since there was no obvious extermal leaks i pulled the oil dipstick and the coolant was right to the top. im assuming ive got a blown head gasket. the engine has never overheated and always ran well. any insight would be appreciated. is it an overly difficult job to do? not sure how im going to get it in my shop as the loader is down and i dont want to run it and wash out the bearings. hopefully i can push it in in neutral somehow.
L2250 coolant in oil sump
- Thread starter kubotal2250
- Start date
kubotafreak
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GRAND l6060, L3560, B6100, gr2100, tg 1860, g1800, g1900, g2160
The radiator low too? If so, drain the oil leaving the plug out, and fill up the radiator. These commonly push a freeze plug out of the timing cover area. You will know because the coolant will flow right out and into the crankcase.
okay i will try that when i get a chance. so your telling me it may not be a head gasket? what are the chances there has been damage done to the engine?
kubotafreak
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Equipment
GRAND l6060, L3560, B6100, gr2100, tg 1860, g1800, g1900, g2160
“If” thats what it ends up being. Granted you didn't run it long prob low. The risk is wiping out lower end bearings due to lack of lubrication. This is common when the block is filled with water or bad coolant, and it freezes. Even a blown head gasket or crack wont allow the coolant to rush out as fast as you pour it in. Bad thing is, it is pretty involved to remove the timing cover.
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Is there a way to verify if the bearings are shot? I'll drain the sump and hopefully it's not an absolute mud milkshake.
kubotafreak
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Equipment
GRAND l6060, L3560, B6100, gr2100, tg 1860, g1800, g1900, g2160
North Idaho Wolfman
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One reason the bearings and such don't get hit immediately is because the coolant / water stays on top of the oil and the pick up is on the bottom.
So your more than likely will get lucky with no burnt bearings.
Now how to get the loader up and off, just jack it up and off, your going to want it off to work on this.
So your more than likely will get lucky with no burnt bearings.
Now how to get the loader up and off, just jack it up and off, your going to want it off to work on this.
Wonderful thanks I'm assuming I don't need to split the tractor in order to repair it .
sorry for this silly question but im assuming if the other freeze pluges on the engine popped out or rotted that the coolant would leak out on the gorund. im assuming there are the 3 on the side of the engine the one under the timing cover you are talking about and one in the rear?
kubotafreak
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Equipment
GRAND l6060, L3560, B6100, gr2100, tg 1860, g1800, g1900, g2160
There are freeze plugs all around the block, and cylinder head. The one behind the timing cover is notorious for being pushed out. Engines come in all shapes and designs, so it is not necessarily the outer ones that pop. If it is the one behind the cover it will pour water out the oil drain as fast as you pour it in the radiator. Easy test and nothing needs to be disassembled to confirm. (#70)
i went to have a quick look last night and pulled the radiator cap and it is full to the top. im going to be pulling it into my garage in the next few days to drain and take the oil pan off. im hoping to diagnose it with out having to take to much apart. ive ordered a WSM and have a radiator pressure test kit and a leak down kit from a all terain vehicle project i did a few years ago.
kubotafreak
Well-known member
Equipment
GRAND l6060, L3560, B6100, gr2100, tg 1860, g1800, g1900, g2160
Yes that is what I thought as well . Perhaps a head gasket? The engine was always running in temp range I was always under the impression that head gaskets went from overheating.
kubotafreak
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Equipment
GRAND l6060, L3560, B6100, gr2100, tg 1860, g1800, g1900, g2160
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Don't bother pulling the pan, just drain it.
I'm finding it hard to understand this statement
And if there is coolant to the top, that amount to a whole heck of a lot more than just the overflow amount that it tripped the light at.
It's sounding more and more like you have a fuel or more likely a hydraulic fluid in the oil issue.
I'm finding it hard to understand this statement
How did you see coolant to the top of the dipstick?
And if there is coolant to the top, that amount to a whole heck of a lot more than just the overflow amount that it tripped the light at.
It's sounding more and more like you have a fuel or more likely a hydraulic fluid in the oil issue.
sorry for the misunderstanding.
when i pulled the dipstick after the engine had run i could see green on the dipstick. there was some higher up on the dipstick but perhaps that could just be cast off from when the engine was running briefly before i shut it down. i will make another look this evening now that it has been sitting. i will get some pictures of what i drain out when i get it into my garage. Murphy's law as now my clutch fork broke on my truck so i will have to take care of that first. when it rain it pours!
how would hydraulic fluid get into the oil ? im just trying to wrap my head around that
North Idaho Wolfman
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The hydraulic pump runs off of the back of the fuel cam, and if the seal on the back side of the hydraulic pump goes out , it will pump hydraulic fluid into the engine. The amount of fluid that is moved depends on several factors.
This is not that bad of an event because hydraulic fluid is essentially the same as motor oil with more additives.
Okay so I went out this evening and got a few pictures . The rad like I said was full to the top . The overflow reservoir was at low ( had been at full previously) I pulled the dipstick and it had settled down to the level in the picture.
