kubota l2250 won't start

kubotal2250

Member
Jan 31, 2021
93
3
8
canada
Hi.

I havent been on here in a while as ive had no issues with my tractor. it was running well for the past year. i was using it and then shut it off to go and do something and when i came back it wont even attempt to turn over. the battery is only a few months old as the old one was leaking. i checked clutch saftey switch and have continuity. relay timer was tested and ok. i pulled the starter and took the back cover off the solenoid and cleaned all the contact areas ( ill have to get a solenoid rebuild kit as the 2 stud contacts and the plunger ring are pitted) i bench tested the starter and it tested out ok. what i dont understand is as soon as i put everything back in the tractor it wont turn the engine . i have 12.8 vdc at the starter post and when i apply the same voltage to the solenoid spade i get no response at all. If anyone has any insight it would be greatly appreciated.

thanks
 

Nicksacco

Well-known member

Equipment
Kubota L35 TLB, 2014 RTV-1140CPX
Sep 15, 2021
679
386
63
Bahama, NC
I wonder if the solenoid itself is bad.
I mean, the internal wiring/connections.
If you connect to the spade and nothing happens (providing grounds and all are good) maybe the coil/connections in the solenoid are burned/broken.

Is there a "main fuse" located somewhere near the starter or elsewhere? When you turn the key on, are you seeing console lights or other signs of "life"?
 
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kubotal2250

Member
Jan 31, 2021
93
3
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canada
I wonder if the solenoid itself is bad.
I mean, the internal wiring/connections.
If you connect to the spade and nothing happens (providing grounds and all are good) maybe the coil/connections in the solenoid are burned/broken.

Is there a "main fuse" located somewhere near the starter or elsewhere? When you turn the key on, are you seeing console lights or other signs of "life"?
i bench tested the starter and the solenoid was operating as should so its creating a magnetic feild and pulling the plunger down and turning the motor just not when in the machine. there is a fusible link right beside the starter and i tested that as well and its got continuity. when i turn the key the instrument panel lights will come on. some time more dimly than others. its intermittent. ground cable from battery was change a year ago as the old one was getting pretty nasty. the positive cable appears ok visibly. just my luck that this happened when the weather is getting cold and short daylight hours and not in the summer.
 

Russell King

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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
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You can try to get a set of jumper cables from the battery to the starter and basically bypass the cables and see if it cranks. Then if so remove one jumper cable and see if it still cranks. That would indicate that that tractor cable is good or bad.
 

Pawnee

Well-known member

Equipment
L2501
Jul 1, 2021
351
306
63
Ontario Canada
Since the starter and solenoid worked when bench tested the only things different when installed are the high current connections.
Starter ground is not good enough or positive to starter not good enough.

Corroded or dirty connections.
 
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D.jFarm78

Member

Equipment
L2250 FEL& L4610FEl, BH, Grapple, Mower, Gannon , blade, disc, plow, rototiller,
Mar 20, 2020
30
9
8
Young, Az USA
On my L2250 there is a fusible link close to the starter. When it decides not to start I remove the link and reinstall and is starts up. At first I was clean and try a lot of other checks, but this works on mine I even replaced the fusible link and still did the same thing, The tractor may start for several months and the decide to not start.
David
 

Edke6bnl

Active member

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B7800 Kubota, case 1840 Skidsteer Ford 3500
Mar 31, 2022
228
116
43
Agua Dulce, California
On my L2250 there is a fusible link close to the starter. When it decides not to start I remove the link and reinstall and is starts up. At first I was clean and try a lot of other checks, but this works on mine I even replaced the fusible link and still did the same thing, The tractor may start for several months and the decide to not start.
David
I would spread thus in the contacts
NO-OX-ID A-Special- Electrical Contact Grease- Keeps Metals Free of Rust and Corrosion- Part# 10203
This is not silicone paste but a conductive grease. might help
 

Nicksacco

Well-known member

Equipment
Kubota L35 TLB, 2014 RTV-1140CPX
Sep 15, 2021
679
386
63
Bahama, NC
Hmmm, I agree with the aforementioned posts - corrosion, battery cable/connector failure as factors - especially with the console lights acting dimly. Voltage drop test is an excellent test as well.

One other thought I had was the starter switch itself possibly being burned, corroded and such.
Might be worth taking it out and using electrical contact cleaner on the internals if there is high resistance in the switch positions. I would expect that your Owners Manual will show you the positions/contacts.
 
Last edited:

kubotal2250

Member
Jan 31, 2021
93
3
8
canada
On my L2250 there is a fusible link close to the starter. When it decides not to start I remove the link and reinstall and is starts up. At first I was clean and try a lot of other checks, but this works on mine I even replaced the fusible link and still did the same thing, The tractor may start for several months and the decide to not start.
David
i appreciate the advice guys. ill dig into it some more this afternoon hopefully. ill make some extensions for my fluke meter to i can do a voltage drop test from the cab. ill try the fusible link thing as well and when i get it running ill park it in my shop right away so i dont have to work in the snow again.
 

kubotal2250

Member
Jan 31, 2021
93
3
8
canada
i appreciate the advice guys. ill dig into it some more this afternoon hopefully. ill make some extensions for my fluke meter to i can do a voltage drop test from the cab. ill try the fusible link thing as well and when i get it running ill park it in my shop right away so i dont have to work in the snow again.

after investigating i found a small nick on the postive cable that was shorting to the frame. the battery drained down so much that it wouldnt take a charge . i put a new battery and new posotive cable and a new heavy gauge ground cable and it seems to start just fine. once i splice the wiring harness where the insulation has been chewed on by mice it shpould be good to go.
 

GreensvilleJay

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BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Apr 2, 2019
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I've heard mice do NOT like peppermint oil...
..maybe wipe some onto the wiring harnesses, smear it here,there, everywhere 'under the hood' ??