My understanding is that many of these grey market tractors did not have a live pto. Is there anything that can be done while I'm in there that can add that helpful feature. I'm aware that I can get an overrun for not much and if that is really the best answer then I'm fine going that route.
Kubota L2002 3 pt hitch
- Thread starter Gunman71670
- Start date
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Yea there isn't anything else to be done in there, and a live PTO has to do with the clutch side not the rear side. 
Most likely the cylinder will be the same as the L275 But I don't know for sure.
Most likely the cylinder will be the same as the L275 But I don't know for sure.
I like documenting these kinds of things one to help anyone else in this mess, two in case I need help getting out of this mess, and three we all like looking at pictures they are some much more helpful to convey what is going on.
Here is my rusty seat bracket. It looks to have been expertly repaired by someone along the line.
First step get that out of the way.
Next the top of the tranny, Now I'm not really sure that I needed to go this far but like I said I'm new to all this plus it is nice to see how it all works.
So here is where I think I went too far to soon. It looks to me like the issue is in the front of that cylinder and maybe I could have left the top of the tranny on?
Closer review shows that the o-ring there is completely torn in two.
So now my question is, is this likely all that was wrong just replace that and go? or since I have the top of go ahead and pull the piston replace rings etc?
If I wanted to look for that o-ring online what would I call it?
Also I guess this is the diff not the transmission? sorry car guy ,and it is all in one case so that is messing me up.
Thanks!
Here is my rusty seat bracket. It looks to have been expertly repaired by someone along the line.
First step get that out of the way.
Next the top of the tranny, Now I'm not really sure that I needed to go this far but like I said I'm new to all this plus it is nice to see how it all works.
So here is where I think I went too far to soon. It looks to me like the issue is in the front of that cylinder and maybe I could have left the top of the tranny on?
Closer review shows that the o-ring there is completely torn in two.
So now my question is, is this likely all that was wrong just replace that and go? or since I have the top of go ahead and pull the piston replace rings etc?
If I wanted to look for that o-ring online what would I call it?
Also I guess this is the diff not the transmission? sorry car guy ,and it is all in one case so that is messing me up.
Thanks!
Last edited:
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Yes that part is called the transmission by Kubota, others call it the rear end or differential.
That O-ring is not your issue, if it was then it would have been shooting oil all over the place and not just not working.
You need to pull the piston out and inspect the O-rings on the piston, and the cylinder liner for pit's, cracks, scratches and or any other damage.
That O-ring is not your issue, if it was then it would have been shooting oil all over the place and not just not working.
You need to pull the piston out and inspect the O-rings on the piston, and the cylinder liner for pit's, cracks, scratches and or any other damage.
Ok I see pitting on the liner.
I'm guessing the tractor sat awhile. It is only on this side I imagine this was the "up" side that oil sat on the other "down" side.
Scoring looks minimal on the liner but is an issue on the piston.
So I would image that I need a new piston for sure any thoughts about if I can just hone the liner or would you suggest replacing it too while I'm in here.
Rings seem fine but if I'm doing the piston I'll replace those too.
I'm guessing the tractor sat awhile. It is only on this side I imagine this was the "up" side that oil sat on the other "down" side.
Scoring looks minimal on the liner but is an issue on the piston.
So I would image that I need a new piston for sure any thoughts about if I can just hone the liner or would you suggest replacing it too while I'm in here.
Rings seem fine but if I'm doing the piston I'll replace those too.
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
The piston is ok with the scratches on it, Yes would be better to get a new one, but that will still work fine.
The liner does not look good at all, you could hone the liner out, but really would be better off getting a new liner as the tolerance will be increased greatly by honing that much material out of it.
Here is a breakdown of the cylinder, liner and cover seals if it's the same as the L275.
The liner does not look good at all, you could hone the liner out, but really would be better off getting a new liner as the tolerance will be increased greatly by honing that much material out of it.
Here is a breakdown of the cylinder, liner and cover seals if it's the same as the L275.
Attachments
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Are both backer rings supposed to be on one side of the o Ring? Seems like an odd arrangement if that is correct.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Yes it's right, because there is only ever fluid pressure on one side of the piston so you want it to slide when it gets pressure gets released.
Hey,thanks guy's,just love learning about this,sounds like great advise and the pictures explaining the process
I talked to my local Kubota dealer today.
They said that they no longer make the L275 cylinder liner.
Next option I've ordered one from online at this point I can only hope that it fits. For now it is wait and see.
I did not get they piston just the liner, gasket for the transmission top and that blown out o-ring.
They said that they no longer make the L275 cylinder liner.
Next option I've ordered one from online at this point I can only hope that it fits. For now it is wait and see.
I did not get they piston just the liner, gasket for the transmission top and that blown out o-ring.
Okay so where I tried to order from said they don't have it and can't get it.
My options are looking like see if a machine shop can make one or fine one in a bone yard somewhere, or hone it and hope for the best.
Anyone have any other thoughts?
Thanks!
My options are looking like see if a machine shop can make one or fine one in a bone yard somewhere, or hone it and hope for the best.
Anyone have any other thoughts?
Thanks!
I think I'd dress it with a hone just a bit before I'd get one from the recycler, and take my chances.
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
After honing you may want to get a good measurement on the bore and piston groove diameters and groove width.
If the stock o ring and backup rings don’t work then you may be able to get “special” size parts to match your measurements better.
I have done that when parts have gotten machined incorrectly. If I recall correctly we actually machined the part again to fit a specific oring since we could
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
If the stock o ring and backup rings don’t work then you may be able to get “special” size parts to match your measurements better.
I have done that when parts have gotten machined incorrectly. If I recall correctly we actually machined the part again to fit a specific oring since we could
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
This is where I am with the honing now.
What is the consensus would you keep going? I'm trying not to eat up too much material.
I'm believe the O-rings are coming tomorrow.
What is the consensus would you keep going? I'm trying not to eat up too much material.
I'm believe the O-rings are coming tomorrow.
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
I finally got the o-ring based on the L275 numbers and they are not correct. So I'll try it with the old O-ring and backer rings and see what I get.
Here's to hoping!
Here's to hoping!
Okay it took awhile because I had to get the o-ring to replace the one that was broken that goes around the valve unit in the front. I special ordered that from an o-ring supplier. I got everything put back together and same deal. No lifting power. If I raise it manually the cylinder will fill up and hold it as long as the engine is pumping if I use the lever to lower it goes down fine, but won't come up unless I take the weight of the 3pt.
I guess I need to pull it back apart and order an oring to fit that cylinder? I don't know where to look to get new o-ring backers will they be okay or will they need to be replaced too? if so where can I find them? thanks.
I guess I need to pull it back apart and order an oring to fit that cylinder? I don't know where to look to get new o-ring backers will they be okay or will they need to be replaced too? if so where can I find them? thanks.
I've been thinking about the lift cylinder. The three point if I manually raise it will come come up but it takes a little bit for the cylinder to catch up with no weight. I can leave the the lever in the up position and it hold the 3 point up even with me standing on it. That tells me that the lift cylinder isn't leaking down. If it were the cylinder then as soon as I stopped the fluid from pumping it would drop again but it stays up until I drop the lever to tell it to go down. So I'm thinking the control valve may be bad? I think that will be my next move I'll keep everyone posted.