I believe SUDT is synthetic, UDT is mineral. So if the fluid you have is synthetic it's probably something like SUDT by another name. I believe what we get in NZ is all mineral. I doubt it's because they can't get synthetic, I suspect it's because they think NZers wouldn't spend rthe money for synthetic fluid. Same reason you basically cannot get SSQA quick connects here - apparently NZers don't value those.
Hydraulic outlets on B2601 for log splitter
- Thread starter PaulL
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TheOldHokie
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In the US market synthetic vs mineral is a blurred distinction. Much of the 'synthetic" oil on the shelf is actually a highly refined mineral base oil.
As far as SUDT vs UDT goes:
- SUDT has a slightly lower KV100 viscosity with a higher viscosity index (200 vs 140) which makes it a superior circulating oil in cold temperatures.
- SUDT is formulated with chemistry that increases its water tolersnce. It absorbs a minimum of 1% water by volume without additive dropout, emulsification, or separation of free water. That helps reduce corrosion and keeps filters from clogging up.
YMMV
Dan
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SUDT is Obsolete by about 10 years.
UDT and SUDT2 are the only 2 options
UDT mineral
SUDT semi synthetic
SUDT2 full synthetic
UDT and SUDT2 are the only 2 options
UDT mineral
SUDT semi synthetic
SUDT2 full synthetic
So, no my hose shop does not have BSPP banjos, and they reckon one of them isn't even BSPP, and potentially UNC? Certainly they think it's a bit obscure, and don't have it.
Their recommendation is that they just cut up the hard pipe, and use the fittings off each end. We know they work. I see I can buy that part again from Messicks if I ever need it:
The diagram showing it marks it as part 090:
They couldn't guarantee finishing today if they made it today, they said Friday afternoons get busy. I need the tractor this weekend, so this is a next week task now.
The small risk here is that they cut up the part then something goes wrong. My tractor will then be non-functional until I get the new part, and they're not easy to get in NZ. I don't think it's a big risk though.
Their recommendation is that they just cut up the hard pipe, and use the fittings off each end. We know they work. I see I can buy that part again from Messicks if I ever need it:
The diagram showing it marks it as part 090:
They couldn't guarantee finishing today if they made it today, they said Friday afternoons get busy. I need the tractor this weekend, so this is a next week task now.
The small risk here is that they cut up the part then something goes wrong. My tractor will then be non-functional until I get the new part, and they're not easy to get in NZ. I don't think it's a big risk though.
TheOldHokie
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Nonesense. The ends on the pipes are banjos and the bolts work. All you need is a couple banjos with threaded ends like I pictured. Surely they can get something like that. I am in the USA where BSPP is rare and I can get them in any number of sizes and types in a matter of days.. I am not getting a warm and fuzzy feeling from your hose shop.
Dan
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They can order. It'll take time. The top one looked standard, and they can order that. The one on the side he reckoned wasn't bspp, and didn't know what it was.
How do I go about establishing exactly what banjo body size I need? I guess I can take it apart and measure with calipers, and reuse both the seals and the bolts from the original part. But it does seem easier to just have them cut what I have - that is already known to fit.
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TheOldHokie
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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Its your tractor. If you want to cut the pipe go ahead.
Personally I would take the banjo bolts out and measure the OD of the thread with your caliper. Should be obvious from that. SUMMIT and WR Long make aftermarket hydraulic 3rd function kits here in the US and have no problem supplying matching banjo adapters with their kits.
Dan
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I'm inclined to agree with @TheOldHokie, with hydraulics it's best to do it simple and right the first time to reduce current and future expense, and more importantly leaks. It's already tight in that area, going back in to fix a leaking "something" isn't going to be fun.
I'm new to tractor hydraulics, but with the help here it's not been a bad experience, and for me once I understood the basics things just kept getting easier. I expect it will be the same for you, maybe not on the quick timeline you're hoping for, but understanding how things work makes the whole tractor experience much better (and easier, and less expensive).
I'm new to tractor hydraulics, but with the help here it's not been a bad experience, and for me once I understood the basics things just kept getting easier. I expect it will be the same for you, maybe not on the quick timeline you're hoping for, but understanding how things work makes the whole tractor experience much better (and easier, and less expensive).