I thought the solenoid was the electrical actuator of the valve? I thought you would still hear "clicking" of the solenoid even if the valve was gummed up or jammed by debris or whatever???
Hydraulic Deflector not working
- Thread starter PNWBXer
- Start date
Heres a section view. The spool goes into the center opening in the coil where it is magnetically shifted. Taken together they constitute a solenoid.
Remove the coil and you can remove the spool. I think your problem is purely electrical. Bad coil or bad connection
Thanks. Just checked the solenoid and it does click when 12 VDC are applied. Narrowing it down! Thanks again.
Did you check the deflector while you had 12V applied? If you got a click I would expect it to work.
Dan
Didn't think of that....but would have to find another battery as I was using the removed BX Battery.
No need to remove the battery. You can jump the coil straight from the other tractor.
Dan
Just got back in town from a trip. And yes I just tested this having my wife operate the stick while I manually energized the solenoid. The deflector worked as advertised........as does the rotation when the solenoid is deenergized. I also reversed the solenoid so that the connector mounts correctly via the directions in the manual (and hoping this reduces corrosion).
That isolates the problem to the wiring harness. I've tested continuity between the solenoid connection to the quick disconnect. I checked between the quick disconnect to the relay but only one side tested good....the other side tested good to the neg battery terminal (ground i'm assuming?). Tested between the pos battery and the relay with the relay both connected and disconnected and they seem good. Tested between the relay and the switch both switched and not switched. Looks like I have more work to do testing lines and to test the power again at the relay when the tractor is running and switch is engaged. Obviously there is either no power or not enough power to energize the solenoid. I have a new relay on order as well as a box of new fuses incase i'm losing some amps across those.
So i have two questions. How do I test for power at solenoid? I'm guessing used my multimeter on Volts DC and complete the circuit with one probe on the pos side one on the neg side? Then have someone acuate the switch on the stick to see how many volts get to the meter (or solenoid) both switched on and off? I'm hoping this is just a bad relay.
Second question....I think by testing the continuity between all the wires and something....that I have good ground wiring.....is that correct?
Summarizing what you've said and what should be checked-
For this list, I'm assuming pin 1 is +12VDC and pin 2 is ground. It could be the oter w
Working from the solenoid valve back to the tractor,
Solenoid valve is functional when power is directly applied to it- GOOD
Continuity between solenoid valve connector pin 1 to quick connect pin 1- GOOD
Continuity between solenoid valve connector pin 2 to quick connect pin 2- GOOD
Continuity between quick connect pin 1 to relay connector terminal 87- GOOD
Continuity between quick connect pin 2 to ground- GOOD
Continuity between relay connector terminal 30 to fuse (assuming fuse is supplying the relay)- ?
Continuity between relay connector terminal 85 to ground- ?
Continuity between relay connector terminal 86 to switch output terminal- ?
Continuity between switch input terminal and the 12V supply source- ?
If the switch and relay are all functioning properly, you should measure close to the same voltage at the solenoid valve as there is at the battery, there will be slightly less due to voltage drop.
Typical wiring diagram for a generic 12VDC relay-
no question......just posting my Relay. Well now that I got you here
what's the difference between the 87a and 87 terminal? I assume, based off of the relay info on front that it provides 40 amps switched and 30 amps not maybe??? ikd...just guessing.87A is the normally closed contact.no question......just posting my Relay. Well now that I got you here
87 is the normally open contact.
Power for the device (light, motor, etc...) is supplied to terminal 30 and either goes to 87A or 87 out to the device.
When the relay is not energized, power is routed to 87A (normally closed, aka N.C.)
When the relay is energized, power is routed to 87 (normally open, aka N.O.)
86 is the positive side of the relay coil.
85 is the negative side of the relay coil.
The relay coil is what deflects the internal armature when energized.
Relays are consumable and do fail. The better quality ones and appropriately sized ones last longer than the cheaper ones.
85 and 86 are just the coil connections, there is no 'polarity' with the relay. As long as it gets +-12 volts, it'll operate.
Wife is down with a sickness so i've not gotten a chance to re check for damaged lines. But I have a question....i've been testing with the battery connected....but just removed it. Does it matter if the battery is connected or not for continuity?
I tried a new relay with no fix. It was another 5 pin relay that fit ...but was a little loose for my liking. Might be because i'm jamming my multimeter probes down the female side to check for continuity. It's been interesting to try and see where all the lines go.....obviously electrical isn't my strong suit or this would have been done weeks ago. lol
I tried a new relay with no fix. It was another 5 pin relay that fit ...but was a little loose for my liking. Might be because i'm jamming my multimeter probes down the female side to check for continuity. It's been interesting to try and see where all the lines go.....obviously electrical isn't my strong suit or this would have been done weeks ago. lol
Think i answered my own question via chat GPT.......no....I shouldnt have the battery connected when testing continuity. That might actually solve finding the problem.
Well.....I found the issue......along with some stupid tax and some quick relay swaping while the tractor was running...I figured it out.
The short answer is the Relay was bad. Everything else checked out okay. The stupid tax part comes in a couple of forms on my part. The green line running from the relay to the switch actual forks (behind the plate in front of the right rear tire) to the back of the tractor to where the work light extra bullet connectors. The other fork runs to the switch on the stick. Well stupid me.....I had my positive bullet connector for my after market work light come off the wire and get stuck on the female end. I somehow ended up detaching the Green wire bullet connector from the cold wire and attaching it to the hot wire (meant to have the work lights work when the tractor was off) and had my work light on the cold side. Well I swapped them around correctly......turned the tractor on and tired the switch. Still wasn't working.....then I swapped in new relay and all be darned if it didn't work. Well now I've created a mess for myself taking most of the wire tubing off...including a hard to tape area behind the hydraulic quick connect area and some zip tying. I'll chalk it up as a win.....with some extended clean up involved.
Lastly ...there was a ton of junk in my relay housing (?)......moslty dirt and grass clippings. This probably caused my relay to go bad I'm thinking. I'll have to tape up that back part (where the wires come in) to prevent that in the future.
PS.....I dont know what effect having the green line in the wrong (hot) connector did. All I know is that when the tested the "new" relay a few days ago with it hooked up wrong....it didn't work. If someone could enlighten me why having the wire on the wrong (hot) side would make a difference?
The short answer is the Relay was bad. Everything else checked out okay. The stupid tax part comes in a couple of forms on my part. The green line running from the relay to the switch actual forks (behind the plate in front of the right rear tire) to the back of the tractor to where the work light extra bullet connectors. The other fork runs to the switch on the stick. Well stupid me.....I had my positive bullet connector for my after market work light come off the wire and get stuck on the female end. I somehow ended up detaching the Green wire bullet connector from the cold wire and attaching it to the hot wire (meant to have the work lights work when the tractor was off) and had my work light on the cold side. Well I swapped them around correctly......turned the tractor on and tired the switch. Still wasn't working.....then I swapped in new relay and all be darned if it didn't work. Well now I've created a mess for myself taking most of the wire tubing off...including a hard to tape area behind the hydraulic quick connect area and some zip tying. I'll chalk it up as a win.....with some extended clean up involved.
Lastly ...there was a ton of junk in my relay housing (?)......moslty dirt and grass clippings. This probably caused my relay to go bad I'm thinking. I'll have to tape up that back part (where the wires come in) to prevent that in the future.
PS.....I dont know what effect having the green line in the wrong (hot) connector did. All I know is that when the tested the "new" relay a few days ago with it hooked up wrong....it didn't work. If someone could enlighten me why having the wire on the wrong (hot) side would make a difference?