Has anyone filled their tires with fluid and regretted it?

[Dieseldonato]

I love that my comment stirred up such a great discussion. I appreciate all the input and info and I'm definitely more knowledgeable for it.

So I've learned that the only downside that matters to me is losing the inability to handle a filled tire if I get a leak. That's a concern as I don't currently know of a mobile service for that.

Pretty sure I get the difference in weight at the rear axel and behind it. I would have assumed that the front axel could take what the loader can lift but that apparently isn't exactly correct...most likely an issue over time.

If I fill my tires it'll be with something non-corrosive, likely rutabaga juice... or whatever its called. I'm looking into home spun 3-pt ballasts or possibly adding weights to my BB. I doubt I'll buy a dedicated box unless I found a really cheap used one.

The front axle can take the weight of the loader. If it couldn't the oem would say no loader is allowed to be installed on the machine. The filled tires and rear weight helps with stability.
The filled tires really help with traction and stability during all uses. Like mentioned before, not all of us just use the loader, and when doing ground engaging work, you need the tractor weight to keep traction. Hanging weight on the 3 point doesn't do much if the tractor looses traction when pulling a plow, ripper, box blade ect.

 

[ctfjr]

I will just throw this into the mix as I can't believe no one else has mentioned it.
It's my understanding filled tires or wheel weights don't add any load to the axle. Zero. They certainly add weight to the tractor overall but its not borne by the axle.
I am also in the camp that sufficient 3pt ballast is the safe way to go for counteracting some of the fel load. Spacers on the rear aid in overall tractor stability, as does filled tires.
I have filled tires, 3" spacers and almost always use 3pt ballast when carrying any substantial load in the bucket.

 

[NCL4701]

We have 3 tractors, all with filled rears. For the Kubota, filling the R4’s adds a little over 1000lb. With that and about 600lb of box blade and chain it’s enough to just barely be enough for a max lift with the loader.

And as Dieseldonato pointed out, if I ran a 1500lb counterweight on the 3 point that would be swell for loader work but useless for the weight needed for traction pulling a blade, trailer, disc, etc. If I was planning to run a batwing finish mower and nothing else, I’d prefer unloaded turfs. If I had a backhoe might not need to load rears; don’t know; don’t have one. For general work with loader and pulling stuff with 3 point, I prefer loaded. No regrets.

 

[Dieseldonato]

I will just throw this into the mix as I can't believe no one else has mentioned it.
It's my understanding filled tires or wheel weights don't add any load to the axle. Zero. They certainly add weight to the tractor overall but its not borne by the axle.
I am also in the camp that sufficient 3pt ballast is the safe way to go for counteracting some of the fel load. Spacers on the rear aid in overall tractor stability, as does filled tires.
I have filled tires, 3" spacers and almost always use 3pt ballast when carrying any substantial load in the bucket.

Yeah it's just putting force on the tire from how I understand it.

 

[FTG-05]

Since I'm an Honors Graduate of the Tim Allen School of Overdoing It, I not only filled my rear tires (RV antifreeze and water, 47 gallons each or 385 lbs each) but also made a pair of concrete, lead and steel wheel weights. They weigh ~250 lbs each for a total of another 500 lbs on the rear axle.

In addition, as one recommended above, I added a 8x8" concrete, lead and steel weight block to the rear of my HD LMC box blade. And then I added attachment points to hold my Ratchet Rake on the back of the weight block. The weight block weighs 410 lbs and the RR weighs 110 lbs for a total 675 (BB) + 410 + 110 = 1195 lbs on the 3ph for when I need to lift heavy loads on the FEL.

This combination allows me to lift superheavy loads like this Shagbark Hickory:

And this large Silver or Sugar Maple:

If they sold Rimguard around here, I'd get it in a hot minute. According to RG, the closest dealer is north of the KY/TN line.

 

[Dieseldonato]

Since I'm an Honors Graduate of the Tim Allen School of Overdoing It, I not only filled my rear tires (RV antifreeze and water, 47 gallons each or 385 lbs each) but also made a pair of concrete, lead and steel wheel weights. They weigh ~250 lbs each for a total of another 500 lbs on the rear axle.

In addition, as one recommended above, I added a 8x8" concrete, lead and steel weight block to the rear of my HD LMC box blade. And then I added attachment points to hold my Ratchet Rake on the back of the weight block. The weight block weighs 410 lbs and the RR weighs 110 lbs for a total 675 (BB) + 410 + 110 = 1195 lbs on the 3ph for when I need to lift heavy loads on the FEL.

This combination allows me to lift superheavy loads like this Shagbark Hickory:

And this large Silver or Sugar Maple:

If they sold Rimguard around here, I'd get it in a hot minute. According to RG, the closest dealer is north of the KY/TN line.

I was fortunate with having a rim guard dealer within 45 minuet drive.

 

[Virtual Guy]

Since I'm an Honors Graduate of the Tim Allen School of Overdoing It, I not only filled my rear tires (RV antifreeze and water, 47 gallons each or 385 lbs each) but also made a pair of concrete, lead and steel wheel weights. They weigh ~250 lbs each for a total of another 500 lbs on the rear axle.

In addition, as one recommended above, I added a 8x8" concrete, lead and steel weight block to the rear of my HD LMC box blade. And then I added attachment points to hold my Ratchet Rake on the back of the weight block. The weight block weighs 410 lbs and the RR weighs 110 lbs for a total 675 (BB) + 410 + 110 = 1195 lbs on the 3ph for when I need to lift heavy loads on the FEL.

This combination allows me to lift superheavy loads like this Shagbark Hickory:

And this large Silver or Sugar Maple:

If they sold Rimguard around here, I'd get it in a hot minute. According to RG, the closest dealer is north of the KY/TN line.

Uhhhhh......wow!

On another topic, beautiful view!

 

[Daferris]

RimGuard in the rear tires last 2 tractors. Would not ever consider NOT loading the tries. It makes a HUGE difference in traction. The ballast effect for the loader is just a plus factor.

 

[flyidaho]

RimGuard in the rear tires last 2 tractors. Would not ever consider NOT loading the tries. It makes a HUGE difference in traction. The ballast effect for the loader is just a plus factor.

The first 5 minutes I was driving my then new L3301 around my place, I thought it was broken! Just an empty FEL, no implement in back, any little side slope at all and it'd lift a tire. I used wiper fluid, and would never NOT have filled tires.

 

[minthral]

Maybe it depends on the tractor and what is designed to do.

My l3301 had filled tires and backhoe. This worked great as the weight of the tractor was a limiting factor in various tasks.

Some downsides:

- You can’t remove the rear tires. At about 350lb each, they’re just too heavy to man handle.
- Maintenance concerns. What if you need to patch or change a tire? I wanted to add wheel spacers and couldn’t without dealer unfilling and refilling.
- Manuel says remove liquid ballast of using backhoe.
- Transaxle doesn’t like extra unsprung weight. More strain on minor quick forward to reverse and back.
- Added weight might not be what you want. It’s good for loader work, but bad for mowing.
- Towing concerns.’+500lb for both rear wheels may upset your tow limit depend on truck or trailer.
- Going fast on highway, the tires are unglamorous with fluid. Only 75% is filled, leaving 25% air gap. As you go fast, fluid is slower to respond, following gravity. Basically it looks like a bulge on one side of the tire.
- People say it helps lower center of gravity for hill stability, however from personal experience, rear width in comparison to weight distribution is more important.
- For the same and lower cost, you could get removable rear wheel spacers or weights
- Ballast is more effective. Filled
rear tires don’t allow full capability of the loader…for that a heavy attachment is require

On my L47, I’m not finding that I require more weight or stability. I can meet or exceed the loader or backhoe capability without feeling like the front or rear is tipsy or spinning to prevent achieving a task. For better loader or backhoe performance, I just fill the front or rear bucket with dirt. When I extend the backhoe with full large bucket,
it makes a huge improvement in trying to haul heavy loads in the front bucket.

Again depends on the tractor, but keep it stock and perform accordingly has it’s merits.

 

[CGMKCM]

I have filled tires water/methenol. I only regret not having the tires filled with Rim Guard. The added 460 lbs Rim Guard would provide would be nice to have.

 

[JasonW]

I’m in the south so no freezing concerns. I’ve always have loaded rear tires with water.
The concerns of getting a flat or putting on new tires should outweigh the cons.

Everyone has different operating conditions but how many flats are y'all getting? Or how often are you buying new rear tires?

I’ve swapped my rear tires and centers on my L by myself to widen them. Lift the rear, place the valve stem at the bottom and drain the fluid (If it’s not water but I’m sure you can save it to refill). Just kept the tires upright roll them around. I was on a concrete pad, used a floor jack, jack stands, lug wrench, and fill valve.

 

[Virtual Guy]

You all convinced me to make a ~650 pound ballast. I tried it today and I'm a convert. I underestimated how much it would improve my 2501's ability to do dirt work. I might still fill the tires, but I'm sure not giving up the new 3-pt ballast.

 

[Virtual Guy]

Here's a bit of unaskedfor data on it. If I assume it weighs 650 pounds (600 lbs of concrete plus steel parts), and that the center of mass is 32 inches behind the rear axle (my rough measurement) then it reduces the load on the front axle by 328 pounds and increased the load on the rear axle by 978 pounds.

That tells me that my mx5 mower at 823 lbs, and a center further away from the rear axle, is putting some serious pressure on my rear tires....but only when it's not sitting on the tail wheel of course.

 

[troverman]

Some of you guys are nuts. You don't need to "take strain off the loader." The manufacturer rates the tractor's front axle to be able to handle the added wight of the loader itself and the loader's rated payload. It will be able to take this for the life of the machine. The pages cited in the owner's manual which stated to add rear wheel and/or 3-pt ballast have nothing to do with the life expectancy of the loader / tractor. Instead, they have to do with being able to safely lift the rated load of the loader to the loader's maximum height. Obviously, a heavier tractor makes that task safer. Kubota and other manufacturers are trying to absolve themselves of liability of injury when someone picks a heavy load up high on uneven ground and rolls the machine over.

Also, someone mentioned the transaxle not liking additional "unsprung weight." Excuse me, where exactly is the "sprung" weight on a tractor? There is no suspension, so its all unsprung. The tires are your suspension, which is why tires are only filled to about 75-80%. That leaves the remainder of the volume to be a cushion of air. I'm surprised someone would assume moving the extra weight would be "bad" for the transmission...after all, how much weight do you suppose is being moved if you have a thousand pound implement on the back? Or are plowing sod? Or pushing into a pile of dirt? As for removing tires, yes...you absolutely can remove the tires. You simply place a suitable jack under the drawbar of the machine and lift the tractor so the tire is off the ground my a couple of millimeters. Wiggle it off the wheel studs, and roll it around. Don't let it fall over, because it can weigh hundreds of pounds. I took my loaded L4060 rear tires off, which weighed about 500lbs each...to install wheel spacers and flip the dish of the rim for added width.

Loaded rears do not impart a force down on to the axle, but they do impart downward force when the axle is attempting to lift. Having weight further out behind the axle is more effective, but keep in mind half the rear tire is behind (and below) the rear axle anyway.

I've always loaded my rears, makes a huge difference. I use Ballast Star which is a citrus mix and corrosion resistant and heavy.