Grand L Cab Tractor on sidehills

troverman

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I'm strongly considering trading my two current tractors for an L4060 cab tractor. Right now I have an MX4800 with R1 tires, rears loaded, and rim dish pushed all the way out. I also have an L2501 with R4 tires, loaded, with 3" spacers on each side at the rear. Both perform well on side hills, some of which are probably near the limit.

I've wanted a cab tractor for years to escape the hot, the cold, the bugs and bees, and the pollen and dust. However, with much of my flail mowing work being done on side hills, I've always worried the cab tractor would have a higher center of gravity and be less stable.

Examining the L4060 reveals the 13.5 gallon fuel tank is below the cab instead of up high above the engine like on my other tractors. A full tank means almost a hundred pounds sitting low. The R4 tires are pretty wide, and I would load them for more low-down weight. Perhaps some spacers are available for this tractor as well? I don't know.

How do you guys think the performance of a cab tractor is on side hills compared to an open station? Is is more, less, or similarly safe to an open station in the event of an actual rollover?

Thanks in advance.
 

Dave_eng

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The cab is really built around a roll over structure and would likely keep your arms and legs inside and safer during a roll over..... assuming you wear the seat belt.

Dave
 

sheepfarmer

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My L3560 is open station, and so I have no direct information. The rear tires are filled but I don't have the industrial tires in the widest position. It has been stable for all my uses. The only time I have had a rear wheel off the ground is when a front wheel dropped into a hole I didn't see. Perfectly safe, but got my attention.

The manual which includes the 4060 says the widest rear stance with farm tires is 60 inches. If you add spacers it should help to offset the cab.

You would like the L60 tractors. Really nice features, transmission quieter, cab nicer than the ones on the B2650 series. Way sturdier than the other L tractors and certainly than my B tractor. I laughed the other day when I went to start it and turned the key and all it did was print out the message " HST pedal not in neutral position" . My size 9 heavy boot was accidentally resting on the pedal, and indeed it shouldn't have started, I would have backed over an implement. That feature was not one I knew about. :D. Sorry mine does not have a cab and a mid pto, was too Scotch to go for a cab when I got it.
 

BAP

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I'm strongly considering trading my two current tractors for an L4060 cab tractor. Right now I have an MX4800 with R1 tires, rears loaded, and rim dish pushed all the way out. I also have an L2501 with R4 tires, loaded, with 3" spacers on each side at the rear. Both perform well on side hills, some of which are probably near the limit.

I've wanted a cab tractor for years to escape the hot, the cold, the bugs and bees, and the pollen and dust. However, with much of my flail mowing work being done on side hills, I've always worried the cab tractor would have a higher center of gravity and be less stable.

Examining the L4060 reveals the 13.5 gallon fuel tank is below the cab instead of up high above the engine like on my other tractors. A full tank means almost a hundred pounds sitting low. The R4 tires are pretty wide, and I would load them for more low-down weight. Perhaps some spacers are available for this tractor as well? I don't know.

How do you guys think the performance of a cab tractor is on side hills compared to an open station? Is is more, less, or similarly safe to an open station in the event of an actual rollover?

Thanks in advance.
I don’t know about the L4060 on hills, but I farmed about 25 miles south of you for 30 years, and we operated many different cab tractors in hills that would scare the sheet out of most people and never rolled one. Set your wheels out and use caution and a cab shouldn’t make any difference.
 

RCW

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I’m familiar with the types of dam slopes you’re mowing.

The dams I deal with are STEEP, and the pictures you posted a while ago are similar. Never mowed one, and not sure I want to....[emoji15]

You’re on the edge already, as you say. The lower fuel tank is a plus, but where are HVAC equipment located?...could be a minus. First thing I thought of wasn’t spacers, but duals....

Don’t really have a recommendation, but I certainly understand the inquiry....

Best wishes in your endeavor; be curious how you evaluate it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Fordtech86

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Im also speaking from zero experience with a cabbed tractor on hills. But how much could the little extra weight on top be compared to the weight of the tractor down low? I watch the state and city guys mow areas here with tractors about like the L60 series (they are green or blue though) and I think these guys are crazy. When we travel up through Mississippi there are signs on some of the slopes on the roads that say no tractors (something like that, I’ll try to get a pic this weekend when we go through), these are crazy slopes though.

Totally off the topic though you made me laugh bringing up a story from work. Had a library on wheels in for work (basically a ford camper chassis but a library). To get into our lot it is a very steep enterance off the service road. Tech that was working on it came in too hard and all the books off the high side ended up falling off the shelves. He got on the radio swearing with the advisor, the bus runs great, but we got a problem, all the god d$#n books on the floor and I don’t know the f’ing dewey decimal system!
 

Bmyers

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It is hard to tell slope in pictures, but here is a few hills I more. Our hills are nothing like some people's hills on here. When I first started mowing them, I would only back up and down them and wouldn't do the whole hill. As I got more comfortable and got the feel for the tractor, I now mow the whole hill without any issues, taking my time and keeping the bucket low.





 

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troverman

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...The manual which includes the 4060 says the widest rear stance with farm tires is 60 inches. If you add spacers it should help to offset the cab.

You would like the L60 tractors. Really nice features, transmission quieter, cab nicer than the ones on the B2650 series. Way sturdier than the other L tractors and certainly than my B tractor. I laughed the other day when I went to start it and turned the key and all it did was print out the message " HST pedal not in neutral position" . My size 9 heavy boot was accidentally resting on the pedal, and indeed it shouldn't have started, I would have backed over an implement. That feature was not one I knew about. :D. Sorry mine does not have a cab and a mid pto, was too Scotch to go for a cab when I got it.
Thanks sheepfarmer. At one point I had an L4310 open station (2002 model) which was a large L series and the "luxury" platform. At the time, the luxury features included automatic glow plugs, full metal cowlings around all the controls and seat, nicer seat with seatback angle adjust and storage pocket on the back of the seat, better headlights with high / low beams, etc. It was a glideshift which I liked but not good for creep situations on steep slopes. The 60 series like you have is worlds nicer than that L4310 - I like the intelli-panel and the added info it provides, along with the nicer HST+ trans, etc.

I don’t know about the L4060 on hills, but I farmed about 25 miles south of you for 30 years, and we operated many different cab tractors in hills that would scare the sheet out of most people and never rolled one. Set your wheels out and use caution and a cab shouldn’t make any difference.
Thanks BAP. I suspect it will be OK, but I'm still a few days away from even seeing if we will make a deal.

I’m familiar with the types of dam slopes you’re mowing.

The dams I deal with are STEEP, and the pictures you posted a while ago are similar. Never mowed one, and not sure I want to....[emoji15]

You’re on the edge already, as you say. The lower fuel tank is a plus, but where are HVAC equipment located?...could be a minus. First thing I thought of wasn’t spacers, but duals....

Don’t really have a recommendation, but I certainly understand the inquiry....

Best wishes in your endeavor; be curious how you evaluate it.
Thanks RCW - I found out Bro-Tek does offer 3" spacers for the rear, and even 2" for the front. I've never run front spacers and heard mixed reviews on how front spacers work. Might be a bad idea to run them with a loader fully loaded.

I've given thought to the weight at roof level...AC blower, ducting, evaporator. Cab radio, HVAC controls, work lights, wiring, etc. I currently have the factory fiberglass canopy on my MX...it is pretty heavy to install; plus I ran some work lights to the other edges. Hasn't impacted it's sidehill stability though. I assume the extra metal and glass structure is what adds the most weight. Interestingly, the Grand L has a pretty beefy rear end compared to even the MX...for example, it has dual external lift cylinders compared to the MX's single internal, and actually lifts more on the hitch (450 additional pounds). The base tractor itself weighs about 300lbs more than the MX. However, I suspect the MX's larger loader significantly outweighs the L4060's loader, and the MX's loader rear tires probably also carry more weight than loading the 4060's rear tires. However, I think adding 6" of rear track should make the stability pretty equal to the MX.

BMeyers, thanks for your post. I agree that you become more comfortable over time. I've become very comfortable with slopes that others say they would never get on in a million years. If I end up with this 4060, I'll just take it slow and easy until I get a feel for how the machine handles on the sidehill.

FordTech, I think you are right - the overall weight up high is probably inconsequential compared to the weight below.
 

RCW

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Trover -

My recollection is front spacers are not so good.

BAP has farmed the hills in your 'hood with cabbed tractors....maybe post up couple of your pictures from a while back into this thread for him and others to see what you're dealing with. Might help, if I recall the pictures correctly.
 
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troverman

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Yeah, BAP and I even do business at the same Kubota dealer.

I've never done front spacers, but I've done 2" and 3" on the rear of certain tractors. Always been a good experience; the Bro-Tek ones are very nice quality. As for the front, I'd be concerned about added stress. Somebody said a wider front stance is of no value because the axle pivots...yet clearly a wider stance is better than, say, an old tricycle tractor.

Likely, I'd just buy rear spacers.
 

D2Cat

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Troverman, I can not add anything to your specific question, however I would say any tractor with a cab, and the operator using a seat belt would be extremely safe in a roll over accident.

I have a friend who has an old '65 Case 730 he used for haying. I had a cab I picked up at the recycler just because it was in excellent condition. I originally though it would be excellent for someone in the country who has kids that wait on the school bus. Simply mount in on some blocks and have a perfect weather protection with good visibility while waiting for the bus.

Well, the friend kept asking about it, so I sold it to him. He mounted it on that 730. A couple of years later he had a disc mower on the back and came up a steep hill on the road back to his farm. The road had a slow bend but came up fast right after he crossed the creek. The weight of the disc mower helped loose control of the front wheels on the ground. He went off the side of the road, and rolled the tractor to the bottom of the creek. When I went to help him get his tractor out, the bank was so steep I could not walk up it without grabbing some vegetation to pull on. It was a good 30' down to the creek.

His tractor is still smashed up in his yard, but he suffered some bruises. He had no seatbelt.

I contend the cab saved his life. I only wish I had taken some pictures!
 

troverman

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Thanks D2 Cat. I hope to never experience a rollover but if I do I want to be as safe as possible. Sounds like the cab would offer good protection. In my case, a rollover would mean taking a good tumble, multiple rolls. I always wear my seat belt on these slopes.
 

lunasdude

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Dec 22, 2018
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I'm strongly considering trading my two current tractors for an L4060 cab tractor. Right now I have an MX4800 with R1 tires, rears loaded, and rim dish pushed all the way out. I also have an L2501 with R4 tires, loaded, with 3" spacers on each side at the rear. Both perform well on side hills, some of which are probably near the limit.

I've wanted a cab tractor for years to escape the hot, the cold, the bugs and bees, and the pollen and dust. However, with much of my flail mowing work being done on side hills, I've always worried the cab tractor would have a higher center of gravity and be less stable.

Examining the L4060 reveals the 13.5 gallon fuel tank is below the cab instead of up high above the engine like on my other tractors. A full tank means almost a hundred pounds sitting low. The R4 tires are pretty wide, and I would load them for more low-down weight. Perhaps some spacers are available for this tractor as well? I don't know.

How do you guys think the performance of a cab tractor is on side hills compared to an open station? Is is more, less, or similarly safe to an open station in the event of an actual rollover?

Thanks in advance.
Agree with most everyone here about the spacers on the rear and not the front.
I have a tiny BX and they are Tippy as hell because of a small narrow footprint and instaling 2" rear spacers made a HUGE difference!
I don't feel like i'm going to tip over everytime I run over a stick, beatle, dog poop, etc!:cool:
Also I agree with everyone on no front spacers, everything I read said not to do it for the same reasons.
1. won't help much as the front is a swing axle, not solid like the rear.
2. will put much more stress on the front axle especially with a FEL.

Also can't stress enough about the seat belt, they are a PITA but, I have literally been saved several times from being throw off my little monster because unlike a larger tractor when it hits a hole and pivots from side to side, it does it fast and hard.
I have had my fat ass literally thrown against the ROPS and not throw off because of the little bit of seat belt!
Good luck!
 
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troverman

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Agree with most everyone here about the spacers on the rear and not the front.
I have a tiny BX and they are Tippy as hell because of a small narrow footprint and instaling 2" rear spacers made a HUGE difference!
I don't feel like i'm going to tip over everytime i run over a stick or some crap now!:cool:
Also I agree with everyone on no front spacers, everything I read said not to do it for the same reasons.
1. won't help much as the front is a swing axle, not solid like the rear.
2. will put much more stress on the front axle with the FEL.

Good luck!
Thanks! My first Kubota was a standard B-series...a little bigger than a BX, but not vastly so. I installed 2" rear spacers and it made a big difference.
 

BAP

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Loaded rear tires help because it is adding weight down low, also if you aren’t running a loader on it, front weights help keeping the front wheels glued to the ground for better, safer turning. Turn slow on steep hills also is a must to keep from joining the “Bottom Side Up Club”.
 

Jchonline

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I discussed Brotek and other aftermarket spacers with my Dealer. He said to be careful as if Kubota doesnt offer them specifically then they will not warranty damage caused by installing this spacers. This could be indirect such as axle breaking, rim issues, etc.

Not saying you should not do it, just dont expect to get it warrantied.
 

Treckerzeug

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Thanks D2 Cat. I hope to never experience a rollover but if I do I want to be as safe as possible. Sounds like the cab would offer good protection. In my case, a rollover would mean taking a good tumble, multiple rolls. I always wear my seat belt on these slopes.
Hello,

Would kubota allow twin rear wheels on the L series?
In switzerland where conditions are indeed extreme you won' see a tractor or selfpropelled loader wagon without them...

Regards

Robert

A sample

https://www.hofheld.de/heuernte-am-hang/
 

troverman

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I discussed Brotek and other aftermarket spacers with my Dealer. He said to be careful as if Kubota doesnt offer them specifically then they will not warranty damage caused by installing this spacers. This could be indirect such as axle breaking, rim issues, etc.

Not saying you should not do it, just dont expect to get it warrantied.
It's a fair point, and adding spacers does place additional load on the rear axle due to a lever effect. It would be something to consider if you had an extremely heavy implement on the rear hitch.

However, I wouldn't think twice about it - my safety is going to be more important than tractor warranty. Furthermore, I wouldn't expect any issues from installing these spacers. Thousands of tractors already have them installed and they have not experienced any failures as result.
 

troverman

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MX6000 HSTC; 2020 Kubota Z421KW-54 zero turn mower
Jun 9, 2015
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NH
Hello,

Would kubota allow twin rear wheels on the L series?
In switzerland where conditions are indeed extreme you won' see a tractor or selfpropelled loader wagon without them...

Regards

Robert

A sample

https://www.hofheld.de/heuernte-am-hang/
No, Kubota would not allow that. That looks like a nice, stable tractor in your link. We have some terrain similar to that around these parts.