Glow plug wires/removal question

[85Hokie]

I wanted to clean up my glow plug connections - started with the middle one first and then realized that even as I unscrewed the "nut" - it hits the intake manifold right at the end (see red dot). Nothing is bent.....so what to do???? See picture.

And IF I wanted to remove glow plug(s) - socket will go there without problem? Anything special to do there for removal? Or same treatment as an old fashion spark plug when removed? Should engine be warm? or best to remove cold?

those been down this road - I'd like your advice!

 

[CobraTom]

Some of the smaller Kubota Tractors I would almost always recommend removing the intake manifold if you are going to be removing glow plugs as the clearances are typically tight.

Yes, absolutely run the engine to temperature before removal.

 

[D2Cat]

85Hokie, why not take a die grinder or a hand file and dress down the threaded end enough to get the nut off? I think the intake manifold is only 6 nuts, and you can reuse the gasket usually....but I'd modify the end of the GP if you're just cleaning the connections.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The wires are just soft aluminum, loosen the nut then open the hook end and remove the wire.

If you want to remove the nuts or the glow plugs, you will need to remove the intake, and the injection lines and either one delivery valve or the entire injection pump.

 

[dlundblad]

This is pretty in depth.. No where near the hassle with my rusty G5200.

Each glow plug came out and I did it with the engine cold. If you end up needing new, check out NGK as they are the folks who make the Kubota plugs. 1/2 the price of Kubota and can be purchased on Rock Auto.

One thing I would recommend is taking a pick and/ or a soft brush to the surrounding area of each plug then do the best you can to shop vac up the debris. Somehow a pea sized piece of dirty fell into the threaded hole on the head, but not all the way through. Had to run in and borrow her vacuum.

Never understood the slots on the nut either.. Or why the nut is knurled rather than a plain hex head.

 

[D2Cat]

The slot in the nut if for the use of a flat screwdriver to loosen/tighten.

I'd use brake cleaner and an air hose to get all the loose crud off before working on a critical area.

 

[dlundblad]

The slot in the nut if for the use of a flat screwdriver to loosen/tighten.

I'd use brake cleaner and an air hose to get all the loose crud off before working on a critical area.

Interesting. I am sure the idea sounded good on paper.. the slot being off center and all.

 

[D2Cat]

Interesting. I am sure the idea sounded good on paper.. the slot being off center and all.

Try it some time, pretty easy to reach in and loosen the nut!

 

[SidecarFlip]

Wonder why they use aluminum and not stranded copper?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Wonder why they use aluminum and not stranded copper?

Less corrosion issues.

 

[Tarmy]

The wires are just soft aluminum, loosen the nut then open the hook end and remove the wire.

If you want to remove the nuts or the glow plugs, you will need to remove the intake, and the injection lines and either one delivery valve or the entire injection pump.

Not hijacking...but curious how often glow plugs should actually be changed...is it an hours thing or how many years in service...thank you in advance.

Following...

 

[Fordtech86]

Not hijacking...but curious how often glow plugs should actually be changed...is it an hours thing or how many years in service...thank you in advance.

Following...

Glow plugs aren’t really a maintenance item. There is no set time to replace them. Do they go bad? Yes. But there is no set time that they should be replaced just because. I speak from the automotive side but I’m sure the tractor side is no different. I have 219 k miles and roughly 5800 hrs (not 100% as I ain’t checked hours lately) on my 6.0 super duty and still original glow plugs and no issues. My L3200 only has 206 hrs and rarely have to preheat the engine down here to worry about glow plugs. Have seen guys on here saying they preheat for a minute or two, way to long to preheat and will lead to failure. 10-15 seconds should be good enough if all is good,older engines maybe a little more. But long story short if it’s cranking fine when cold and not running rough or excessive white smoke when starting then just keep on tractoring.

 

[mrcarnage2]

Sorry To hijack the thread but:

Glow plugs aren***8217;t really a maintenance item. There is no set time to replace them. Do they go bad? Yes. But there is no set time that they should be replaced just because. I speak from the automotive side but I***8217;m sure the tractor side is no different. I have 219 k miles and roughly 5800 hrs (not 100% as I ain***8217;t checked hours lately) on my 6.0 super duty and still original glow plugs and no issues. My L3200 only has 206 hrs and rarely have to preheat the engine down here to worry about glow plugs. Have seen guys on here saying they preheat for a minute or two, way to long to preheat and will lead to failure. 10-15 seconds should be good enough if all is good,older engines maybe a little more. But long story short if it***8217;s cranking fine when cold and not running rough or excessive white smoke when starting then just keep on tractoring.

So I asked this last year when I bought my tractor (2009 B3300SU HST). I live in Michigan it's been 30's and 40's here. Last year it was colder, single digits. I bought my tractor used and when it started getting cold I would hit the glow plugs for 10-15 sec and it would fire right up but run rough and smoke (grayish/black)for 10-15 seconds then even out. It does not do this if its warmer than 50's. One suggestion was when the tractor starts up hit the glow plugs for a few seconds until idle evens out. I have been doing this
and its helped. so some questions:

I was told I shouldn't do this because it will cause the glow plugs to fail. Will it?

I have also seen on here that a rough idle and smoke is common with this tractor and as long as its only a few seconds, its ok. Is that the consensus?

I read on here that you can advance/retard the injection pump a few degrees on some engines. Can I do that on mine.

Any incite would help.

Thanks

 

[tractorslave]

When your tractor starts poorly then you probably need glow plugs or cleaning up of the connections.
My connections were corroded with rust and aluminum oxide.



I just replaced my glow plugs last night, I did not remove the manifold.
Plugs X3 was about 40 dollars at my Kubota dealer.
The intake manifold was in the way of the first one,
The middle one was easy.
The front one was blocked by the injector line flare nut.

I took a very thin wall cheap 12mm socket and ground some of it off for the first one.
The middle one came out with 12mm socket and the front one required removal of the injector line and nuts, (then just normal tools).

ISSUE: My tractor is OLD and the new glow plugs had a longer threaded terminal end and that made the reinstall of the wires really tight and difficult.

 

[200mph]

Each glow plug came out and I did it with the engine cold. If you end up needing new, check out NGK as they are the folks who make the Kubota plugs. 1/2 the price of Kubota and can be purchased on Rock Auto.

Can you comment on how you found the correct glow plug on Rock Auto? I've never seen tractors listed in the applications, but might be missing something.

I'm guessing you used the part number search function, so can you comment on how you converted the Kubota P/N to a NGK#?

This info could help others who might be in the same situation and in need of saving $'s.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

One suggestion was when the tractor starts up hit the glow plugs for a few seconds until idle evens out. I have been doing this
and its helped. so some questions:

I was told I shouldn't do this because it will cause the glow plugs to fail. Will it?

How are you doing that on that model?
And no it won't hurt them anymore then any other normal use.

I have also seen on here that a rough idle and smoke is common with this tractor and as long as its only a few seconds, its ok. Is that the consensus?

Yes its normal, just needs to heat up.

I read on here that you can advance/retard the injection pump a few degrees on some engines. Can I do that on mine.

No, not in any logical manner.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Glow plugs aren’t really a maintenance item. There is no set time to replace them. Do they go bad? Yes. But there is no set time that they should be replaced just because. I speak from the automotive side but I’m sure the tractor side is no different. I have 219 k miles and roughly 5800 hrs (not 100% as I ain’t checked hours lately) on my 6.0 super duty and still original glow plugs and no issues. My L3200 only has 206 hrs and rarely have to preheat the engine down here to worry about glow plugs. Have seen guys on here saying they preheat for a minute or two, way to long to preheat and will lead to failure. 10-15 seconds should be good enough if all is good,older engines maybe a little more. But long story short if it’s cranking fine when cold and not running rough or excessive white smoke when starting then just keep on tractoring.

My 97, 7.3 is still on the OEM glo plugs. I did have to replace the injector / glo plug / valve cover gaskets last year bit not because of the connections, because one of the molex connectors gave up the ghost. Hard job to do. Need little fingers for that back valve cover bolt on the passengers side...

 

[mrcarnage2]

How are you doing that on that model?
And no it won't hurt them anymore then any other normal use.




Yes its normal, just needs to heat up.



No, not in any logical manner.

Wolfman,

Between off and start is the run then glow plug position. I activate the plugs for a few seconds and start the tractor. The switch moves back to run when let go. I just turn the switch clockwise until the glow plug indicator comes back on. After 2-4 seconds the idle evens out Ilet the switch go back to the run position. I don't do this on every startup. Just when its cold out and it is idling rough.

Thanks for answering. About the injection pump, I didn't think so, at least not by looking at the schematic.