G1900 coolant leak

[TheOldHokie]

This is happening all over.

I recently went to drop off an alternator to the rebuilding place I have been using for 20+ years, and all that was there was a bulldozer and a small pile of debris.

But hey, on the bright side, I will soon have another place to get my "nails done” or buy a $36.00 coffvvffe………...

I am 75 years old and been doing car repairs since about 10 and I have used a automotive elecrrical shop exactly once. New or commercually rebuilt generators and alternators are too cheap to bother with the process. Take the old one to NAPA and walk out ten minutes later with a replacement.

The sole exception was the weak sister 6V generator on my 1952 Ford 8N. I paid the local shop (still in business) to convert it to (a weak sister) 12V because I wanted it to look original. That and a new VR cost about $175 which is ~5X what a brand new 10Si with far more output capascity would have cost.

We still have at least two radiator shops within a 20 mile radius and I have used both for older yellow metal radiator repairs. New plastic and aluminum radiators and all new/rebuilt water pumps are simply purchased outright.

I think thats the MO of just about all auto service centers and has been for many decades. There's just no customer base left for the indy electrical and radiator business.

Dan

 

[jcross312]

Same here. I had a good one but that closed about four years ago. The art of radiator repairs seems to be dying out it seems.

Since then I do those repairs myself. Even replacing the core is not that difficult. Good preparation (cleaning) is important, and yes, Dan is 100% right, be careful when heating up. Due to the cooling nature of radiator components it is easy enough just to melt the solder in a specific spot I find.

I think I figured out what you were describing earlier. Forming a collar to go around the tube, with a 90° bend so it contacts both pieces. That is interesting and will keep it in mind in case I run into another problem.

Do you use a lazer thermometer to check temp? Ive actually got 2 of them. Started using one in the kitchen to check temp of skillets before and during cooking

 

[TheOldHokie]

Do you use a lazer thermometer to check temp? Ive actually got 2 of them. Started using one in the kitchen to

This is exactly why you need the services of someone who knows how to solder. No thermometers needed !!

If you want to learn to solder go buy an iron, a torch, and a couple different tyoes of solder. Then do some reading and practice on wire and copper plumbing parts.

Dan

 

[jcross312]

This is exactly why you need the services of someone who knows how to solder. No thermometers needed !!

If you want to learn to solder go buy an iron, a torch, and a couple different tyoes of solder. Then do some reading and practice on wire and copper plumbing parts.

Dan

Yeah, I didn't want to "learn" how to on this one anyway. It actually belongs to someone else, so more strings attached

I did solder some refrigerant lines many years ago. Was helping a guy that did residential A/C work, and did 1 or 2 lines near the end of my time with him. Also did some plumbing fittings a few years ago on a tub faucet for my house

Those went surprisingly well, but plenty of room to heat up the tubes/fittings with a torch compared to a radiator

 

[Hugo Habicht]

Do you use a lazer thermometer to check temp? Ive actually got 2 of them. Started using one in the kitchen to check temp of skillets before and during cooking

No, no need. You will see when the solder melts. With electronics solder just touch the metal every now and then to see when it starts melting From then on only little extra heat is required.

With bigger parts, like the core, keep the solder part level so that it cannot run away.

Dan seems to be in the lucky position to find cheap spare parts all the time. I find repairing, even alternators, very cost effective. And I keep the quality original alternator and not an aftermarket part with (unfortunately nowadays increasingly) questionable life span.

The last radiator I repaired for a friend, it had core damage and four of the small copper pipes were leaking. I soldered little brass plates over the holes. Took me about two hours, incl. pressure tests in between. Cheapest new radiator for this car was 1500 quid. I leave it to you to decide if the repair was worth the time.

 

[Hugo Habicht]

Another thing: that you do not know how to go about a repair is not important. There is always a time when you have to do something the first time. Plenty advice and help on the internet.

And: I always try to repair something that is damaged before buying new. You have nothing to loose, you can only win when your repair successful.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Another thing: that you do not know how to go about a repair is not important. There is always a time when you have to do something the first time. Plenty advice and help on the internet.

And: I always try to repair something that is damaged before buying new. You have nothing to loose, you can only win when your repair successful.

Must be some advantages to living in NA. A couple quick examples using my 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7L V8

1. Commercially remanufactured OEM alternator - $115.
2. New Spectra aluminum radiator - $85

Both plug and play with "free" delivery to my door. Its not even close to being worth my time to repair either one. Thats not cherry picked - its representstive of 60 years buying and repair experience.

Dan

 

[Hugo Habicht]

85 quid for a new radiator for a 5.7l is a real bargain...

But then, it is aluminium, not brass and copper. That is slightly more expensive (see picture below). Pretty much Kubota prices, I'd say.

p.s.: I really love the 2¢ in the price
p.p.s: that is $1954.06 with todays exchange rate

 

[Runs With Scissors]

New or commercually rebuilt generators and alternators are too cheap to bother with the process. Take the old one to NAPA and walk out ten minutes later with a replacement.

Most probably are that cheap, but mine at the NAPA in Phillip SD, was $500 plus tax.

When your in BFE South Dakota, and your alt. light pops on, you get "less choosy" as the minutes your truck is running tick by……ask me how I know….




I’ll check out a rebuild kit when I get the 978,765 other projects done.

 

[Hugo Habicht]

Dan spoke about remanufactured, maybe yours was new?

Even then, 2 bearings, $6 max each, brushes, $5. That's it. Why pay $115-$17 for 30-45 minutes of work?

But then again this obviously depends on what you can earn in this amount of time otherwise.

($115 - $17 parts) / 0.5 hours / 50% tax rate = $392 / hour.

 

[jcross312]

Lady called late yesterday and told me the radiator was ready, but they didn't have the ticket finished yet. But wanted to let me know its ready to pick up.

Maybe she was bracing me for the number

Anywho, ill get it today or tomorrow and let yall know how much it was.

Hugo, do you put the radiator back in with the brackets already mounted to the radiator? Same as removal?

Asking bc they're bolts on the left side look like they'll be difficult to get started back into the threads. Very tight spot with no easy way to reach them with fingers...

 

[Hugo Habicht]

Hugo, do you put the radiator back in with the brackets already mounted to the radiator? Same as removal?

Yes, I was not successful otherwise.

The bolts are easy to access from the side, under the floor panel.

 

[jcross312]

Yes, I was not successful otherwise.

The bolts are easy to access from the side, under the floor panel.

Appreciate the help. Ill try it in a day or 2. Gotta get the radiator back first. Maybe I wasnt really trying hard enough, but used the wrench to fully remove them. Maybe laying down will help with angle

 

[Russell King]

It may be helpful to use a ratcheting wrench on those bolts?

 

[Hugo Habicht]

Appreciate the help. Ill try it in a day or 2. Gotta get the radiator back first. Maybe I wasnt really trying hard enough, but used the wrench to fully remove them. Maybe laying down will help with angle

Just put the bolts in by hand from the side, under the floor panel. Once the thread grips you can put them in fully and tighten them from above with a hex socket and extension.

There is pouring rain here right now, but when that clears I can go out to the shed and take pictures.

 

[jcross312]

Just put the bolts in by hand from the side, under the floor panel. Once the thread grips you can put them in fully and tighten them from above with a hex socket and extension.

There is pouring rain here right now, but when that clears I can go out to the shed and take pictures.

Just put the bolts in by hand from the side, under the floor panel. Once the thread grips you can put them in fully and tighten them from above with a hex socket and extension.

There is pouring rain here right now, but when that clears I can go out to the shed and take pictures.

The right side you can put a socket & extension on,

the left side...no way.

Theyre under part of the radiator. No way to get a socket & extension on them. Unless my eyes are playing tricks on me again.

Ill send a pic when I get there. Picked up the radiator a little while ago. $150 was the bill. But may be tomorrow before Ill have time to reinstall

Which coolant did you go with?

 

[Hugo Habicht]

I use BASF Glysantin G48 in a 1:1 Mix with water.

I could not get the Kubota coolant in Europe and also the "green stuff" seems to be an American thing.

The G48 is used in older engines with a similar material mix as used in the Kubota engine. It is silicate based.

 

[jcross312]

I use BASF Glysantin G48 in a 1:1 Mix with water.

I could not get the Kubota coolant in Europe and also the "green stuff" seems to be an American thing.

The G48 is used in older engines with a similar material mix as used in the Kubota engine. It is silicate based.

Almost forgot about the hoses. They do look pretty old and janky. Ordered 3 hoses and new fan belt. The water pump looks fairly new, and after speaking with the owner, he said it had been changed not too long ago, so just going with the hoses and belt. Only came out to around $60 for those 4 parts, but will be Tues or wed before they arrive at the local kubota dealer.

Appreciate the info on the coolant. You dont have a oil filter # do you? May just get one at kubota, but if I can save a few $ im good with that too