G1900 coolant leak

jcross312

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Just tossing a line out in hopes someone can advise. Ive got a G1900 that came to me with a complaint it was running hot and the alarm was going off.

Found it was 2 quarts low on coolant, and once I topped it off, I started it up to check it out. It was hard to start, puffing both black and white smoke, but once it cranked and warmed up, ran really smooth.

But it definitely is leaking coolant from somewhere around the radiator on the right side. Not the overflow hose. Possibly the lower main hose to the radiator, but seems like it very well could be the radiator itself. I couldnt see where it was coming out exactly. The mower is, I suppose 30 years old with 1,700 hours. A couple questions. 1. How hard is the radiator to remove. (And how much are they? Any good aftermarket options?)2. Has someone reading been through this before and what did you find? 3. Any other advice would be appreciated. Thanks
 

Hugo Habicht

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jcross312

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Radiator is not hard to remove, depending how you do it. Take it out with the bottom mounts, bolts are accessible from the side under the floor panel.

I would replace all hoses, I bought the full set two years ago for 50 quid.

Maybe this helps:
Link radiator hoses
Link radiator hoses replacement continued
Link getting radiator back in
Link radiator drain plug
Link radiator bumper mounts
Link radiator finished
Appreciate the help. I confirmed today the radiator is indeed leaking. Started removing it and got everything except the two bottom bolts that look like a pita to get to. Will try again in a day or two to remove them.

Im struggling to find a replacement radiator online. I fear what Kubota might want for it. And afraid it may not even be available, after seeing it not listed on one site that sells oem kubota parts. They had everything else listed on the radiator page, except the radiator
 

Hugo Habicht

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Remove the four bolts of the lower radiator mounts, not the two bottom radiator bolts, see post #2 above and links in same.

And check first where it's leaking, do not embark on ordering parts before you analysed the problem, it may be the plastic drain plug.

The whole radiator is brass / copper construction, so it can be soldered or you can replace the radiator mesh.
 
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jcross312

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Remove the four bolts of the lower radiator mounts, not the two bottom radiator bolts, see post #2 above and links in same.

And check first where it's leaking, do not embark on ordering parts before you analysed the problem, it may be the plastic drain plug.

The whole radiator is brass / copper construction, so it can be soldered or you can replace the radiator mesh.
Thanks for the tip! So after removing the four bolts, the whole bracket comes out?

The radiator is leaking near the top, once I get it out will probably take it to a shop to have it repaired.

Appreciate the help!
 
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jcross312

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Remove the four bolts of the lower radiator mounts, not the two bottom radiator bolts, see post #2 above and links in same.

And check first where it's leaking, do not embark on ordering parts before you analysed the problem, it may be the plastic drain plug.

The whole radiator is brass / copper construction, so it can be soldered or you can replace the radiator mesh.
I kinda think its leaking where the top connects to the mesh/flues. Dont know the terminology, but where there top of the radiator and the mesh comes together. I think theres a soldered joint there that's failed
 

Hugo Habicht

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Thanks for the tip! So after removing the four bolts, the whole bracket comes out?
Yes, that's right. You can lift out the radiator then with the bottom rubbers and brackets attached. Looks like on the picture then. The shroud has to be removed first, I assume you did that already.

If it is only the soldering of the top cap, that should be easy to repair.

If there is a crack in the top cap itself this could be repaired by soldering a piece of brass sheet metal over it.

Please let us know what you did in the end.
 

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TheOldHokie

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I kinda think its leaking where the top connects to the mesh/flues. Dont know the terminology, but where there top of the radiator and the mesh comes together. I think theres a soldered joint there that's failed
The terminology is top tank and core. A radiator shop should have no problem repairing it but expect it to be $$$$ expecially if it needs recored.

Dan
 
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jcross312

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Well, I might be blind. Finished removing the radiator this morning. Wasn't too bad. (But getting those bolts to go back IN might be a problem)

After removing, it looks obvious that the upper neck solder is broken and probably could have done the repair without having to remove it. 🤦‍♂️

That is, if I knew how to solder.

Still kinda tempted to try and figure out a diy repair, or even figure out how to solder.

Then again, Id rather the shop fix it and then they'd be to blame if it fails again 😄

Probably an easy fix. Dont know why I didn't see that. Must be blind 20260413_093442.jpg
 
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jcross312

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Went back out and looked one more time to make sure my eyes weren't playing tricks on me, and it does look like one of the fins might be leaking also. Maybe Im not blind after all (near the top) 20260413_094726.jpg
 

jcross312

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Anybody got any suggestions before taking it to the shop? I may not have a choice, but dont want to get raked

Called Kubota and a new one is NLA, (p/n 16861-72060)

Wish one of those $100 e-bay ones would work. I dont know if I wanna sink a bunch into this thing.
 

Russell King

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Inexperienced repair on older radiator will usually not work. The amount of cleaning and prep needed is usually above the DIY for a reliable repair (in your case).
 
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Hugo Habicht

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Anybody got any suggestions before taking it to the shop? I may not have a choice, but dont want to get raked

Called Kubota and a new one is NLA, (p/n 16861-72060)

Wish one of those $100 e-bay ones would work. I dont know if I wanna sink a bunch into this thing.
Do it yourself. All you need is a small wire brush, flux, solder and a flame that can heat that part to 200+C.

Clean everything meticulously with the brush, apply flux, heat with flame, apply solder. For those things I often use electronics solder (leaded) with flux (colophonium, rosin) inside.

A small slieve may be of advantage here to reinforce the pipe connection. Take a piece of 0.3 to 0.5mm thick brass sheet, take two pieces of plywood, drill a hole with the pipe diameter, cut hole about 10mm smaller into sheet metal, clamp between plywood, hammer the edge around the edge with a piece of pipe or round steel, cut the outside, cut a slot and the slide it over the pipe before soldering.

You can also cut a 10mm strip, bend a right angle in the centre and then try to bend it around a pipe with the same diameter as the outlet pipe. Not sure which is easier.
 
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TheOldHokie

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Inexperienced repair on older radiator will usually not work. The amount of cleaning and prep needed is usually above the DIY for a reliable repair (in your case).
I will second that. A radiator is difficult enough for someone with experience. Its not just about prep. A novice will wind up creating new leaks from seams that have been desoldered by too much heat. BTDT.

Dan
 
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jcross312

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Well appreciate all the advice. And thank you Hugo, for all the help and detailed info. I do appreciate you sharing the knowledge with me. Might need you to expand on how to make the sleeve if the shop fails. I had trouble following exactly what you were describing,

I decided to just drop it by the local radiator shop, which I happened to be going by this morning anyway. Hopefully they can fix it. Not sure if it was a good idea or bad to let them know its NLA from Kubota, but told them in hopes they could go the extra mile if needed to try and fix her up
 

TheOldHokie

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Well appreciate all the advice. And thank you Hugo, for all the help and detailed info. I do appreciate you sharing the knowledge with me. Might need you to expand on how to make the sleeve if the shop fails. I had trouble following exactly what you were describing,

I decided to just drop it by the local radiator shop, which I happened to be going by this morning anyway. Hopefully they can fix it. Not sure if it was a good idea or bad to let them know its NLA from Kubota, but told them in hopes they could go the extra mile if needed to try and fix her up
You did good. They fix stuff like this everyday and it will come back looking like new.

Dan
 
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Russell King

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Please let us know the approximate cost after you get it back.

Unfortunately, where I live, I don’t think there are any remaining radiator shops that do any repairs.
 
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Hugo Habicht

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Please let us know the approximate cost after you get it back.

Unfortunately, where I live, I don’t think there are any remaining radiator shops that do any repairs.
Same here. I had a good one but that closed about four years ago. The art of radiator repairs seems to be dying out it seems.

Since then I do those repairs myself. Even replacing the core is not that difficult. Good preparation (cleaning) is important, and yes, Dan is 100% right, be careful when heating up. Due to the cooling nature of radiator components it is easy enough just to melt the solder in a specific spot I find.
 
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Runs With Scissors

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Same here. I had a good one but that closed about four years ago. The art of radiator repairs seems to be dying out it seems.
This is happening all over.

I recently went to drop off an alternator to the rebuilding place I have been using for 20+ years, and all that was there was a bulldozer and a small pile of debris.

But hey, on the bright side, I will soon have another place to get my "nails done” or buy a $36.00 coffvvffe………...:mad::rolleyes:
 
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Hugo Habicht

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But hey, on the bright side, I will soon have another place to get my "nails done” or buy a $36.00 coffvvffe………...:mad::rolleyes:
Had to think about that one, bit got it eventually. 🤣

Btw: alternator rebuilding is easy, with your skill level you should have absolutely no problem. You have it rebuilt faster than driving to the former alternator place.
 
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