Two different units but there is an odd link. Back in May, I received an email about a fuel injection pump issue & it turned out to be as a result of a post I made in 2017 about a BX2200. The guy who emailed me was the B7800 owner. To say I was surprised is an understatement & all of a sudden I had to go searching for information in my own files & I found what I was looking for, fortunately, & I sent it on to the guy. I didn't post all I had here because it was too much. Some things you have to do privately. What did I send, apart from detailed photos of an injection pump disassembled & itemised components, parts manual drawings & more? I offered advice from the mid fuel line lift pump to solenoid, how to test them & the pump itself down to components. The bottom dollar line was a new injection pump for £1,000 or more or could I help? He didn't bench test the solenoid but bought a new one. This is where, for all the advice I gave & all the time & effort I invested, in trying to help, was a waste of time. Why, because although I'd detailed everything from fuel tank to injectors...I missed the basic of basic things...& I'm a tech savvy guy...almost. Somehow, between us + his 14 year old grandson, during new solenoid testing his grandson asked about the fuse. We already knew the solenoid wasn't supposed to be working but this whole event turned out to be the fuse to the fuel cut off solenoid. That's how easy it is to miss the simple & get things really complicated. If there is a moral to this tale...start with the basics of both mechanical & electrical, if electrics are involved, & think what they are or can be before you make a mountain out of a mole hill.
Fuel injection pump query re: BX2200 & B7800
- Thread starter 1810
- Start date
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
torch
Well-known member
Equipment
B7100HSD, B2789, B2550, B4672, 48" cultivator, homemade FEL and Cab
Rules of troubleshooting:
1. Check the simplest possible cause first: it's cheap, fast and usually the problem.
2. What did you do just before the problem occurred? Again, often the cause...
1. Check the simplest possible cause first: it's cheap, fast and usually the problem.
2. What did you do just before the problem occurred? Again, often the cause...
Yes, absolutely! But occasionally, fuses just... fail. No real reason.
That happened more often with the old glass fuses. Modern plastic ones are built on machines that have better quality control, but still, it does happen now and then.
I'd look at a bad solenoid first, but never assume!
All my fuses are good but I have no signal going to either wire on the solenoid. Any help you can give me would be appreciated. I've had the tank and guage cluster out, only bad wriring I found was where the fuel tank was sitting on the clutch switch.
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Fuse Failure Causes:
1. Electrical Over-Load.
2. Poor Mfr’g Quality (of the fuse itself)
3. Vibration
4. Corrosion (receptacle dissimilar metals, creates heat/overload)
Do not buy the “cheapest” fuses you find on the internet. Select reputable brands such as Littlefuse and Bussman which meet SAE J2077. No advantage is gained by the purchase of bargain safety items. (Throw-away that cheap “Happy-Joy” brand chinese fuse assortment you bought. They are hazardous to your equipment And Yourself. They are often improperly constructed/rated in order to mimic “reliability” which, in fact, hazards you and your equpt. <edit> By “improperly constructed, I mean they are built heavier-amp than actually labelled so as to not “blow” prematurely…. which means they will allow equipment damage and fires before they perform the safety-function for which they are intended. Actual Test: I tested three 5A off-brand chinese fuses and all three actually passed 10A before opening/blowing. A 20A from the same assortment passed 35A before opening, and two others passed 30A. It is as-if the mfr’r used a ”Minimum Current-Capability Scale”…. rather than a Maximum Current rating.
Be aware that a circuit which has suffered repeated fuse-failures may have seriously damaged wiring. Each time the fuse “blows” due to actual circuit overload subjects the circuit components to design overstress. If any component of the circuit is minimally engineered it may be permanently compromised. Be especially vigilant if the circuit serves a safety-system.
1. Electrical Over-Load.
2. Poor Mfr’g Quality (of the fuse itself)
3. Vibration
4. Corrosion (receptacle dissimilar metals, creates heat/overload)
Do not buy the “cheapest” fuses you find on the internet. Select reputable brands such as Littlefuse and Bussman which meet SAE J2077. No advantage is gained by the purchase of bargain safety items. (Throw-away that cheap “Happy-Joy” brand chinese fuse assortment you bought. They are hazardous to your equipment And Yourself. They are often improperly constructed/rated in order to mimic “reliability” which, in fact, hazards you and your equpt. <edit> By “improperly constructed, I mean they are built heavier-amp than actually labelled so as to not “blow” prematurely…. which means they will allow equipment damage and fires before they perform the safety-function for which they are intended. Actual Test: I tested three 5A off-brand chinese fuses and all three actually passed 10A before opening/blowing. A 20A from the same assortment passed 35A before opening, and two others passed 30A. It is as-if the mfr’r used a ”Minimum Current-Capability Scale”…. rather than a Maximum Current rating.
Be aware that a circuit which has suffered repeated fuse-failures may have seriously damaged wiring. Each time the fuse “blows” due to actual circuit overload subjects the circuit components to design overstress. If any component of the circuit is minimally engineered it may be permanently compromised. Be especially vigilant if the circuit serves a safety-system.
Last edited: