I'm trying to revive this ole tractor for one more series of tasks, I replaced injectors, fuel lines from fuel pump, got it to start and run. It has sat around for awhile since I had to be away for a year and three months for a cancer treatment and recovery. I'm hoping someone here with good experience will tell me the best way to get this flat tire of the studs so that I can repair the tire. It is heavily rusted as you can see in the photos. Please let me know the best stepwise protocol to get the nuts off of the bolts, without ruining the studs. Mahalo nui loa in advance.
frozen rust frozen nuts on front tire studs
- Thread starter Neil1777
- Start date
Best of luck and good health wishes!
My guess is that the stud underneath the nut is still in good shape.
There's at least 3 things you can do with the first being application of a penetrant such as Kroil, PB Blaster or such (WD is not a penetrant).
The second is an impact wrench,
The third is heat.
A torch is good, but open flames burn paint and such unless you don't care.
I use this:
It is fantastic and gets bolts red hot and they loosen easily.
Now, if the bolts are so rusted you can't get a socket on them, you have two other ideas:
1) welding on a new nut over the existing nut - the heat will loosen and the new nut will give you leverage.
2) This kind of tool - here is an example
Others may have ideas too!
Let us know what happens
My guess is that the stud underneath the nut is still in good shape.
There's at least 3 things you can do with the first being application of a penetrant such as Kroil, PB Blaster or such (WD is not a penetrant).
The second is an impact wrench,
The third is heat.
A torch is good, but open flames burn paint and such unless you don't care.
I use this:
It is fantastic and gets bolts red hot and they loosen easily.
Now, if the bolts are so rusted you can't get a socket on them, you have two other ideas:
1) welding on a new nut over the existing nut - the heat will loosen and the new nut will give you leverage.
2) This kind of tool - here is an example
Others may have ideas too!
Let us know what happens
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This can't be said enough. WD-40 was not invented to be a penetrating oil, and it does a really lousy job in that role. It's just corporate marketing that it's even on the label. It wasn't, originally. Check out Farm Project's video on YouTube - it turned out to be barely better than nothing. Same in other tests I've read about.
But no penetrating oil works instantly. With rust that bad, you'll need repeated applications (multiple times a day) over the course of a week or two.
Last resort!
Looking at those pics, I'd say some painting is needed, anyway, so...
I'd love to try one of those! Every report, every video I have watched on those things says they work VERY well.
Might look a little pricey, but break a few studs and you run the cost up in that neighborhood anyway.
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what about those nut breakers as a lastest resort. they shear the bolt through to the thread. I plaid with mine once and threw it in the tool box never used
https://www.toolexperts.com/nut-spl...MIjtjxvN7k-gIVkQ2tBh0Fig6qEAQYASABEgLCWPD_BwE
https://www.toolexperts.com/nut-spl...MIjtjxvN7k-gIVkQ2tBh0Fig6qEAQYASABEgLCWPD_BwE
Repair the wheel "in place". Break the bead with a large slide hammer, or a sledge and angle iron. Getting a tire shop to come out is even easier, just more $$$.
I checked prices and they are not worth worrying about. Studs are $2 each and nuts $1.
I checked prices and they are not worth worrying about. Studs are $2 each and nuts $1.
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Heat (Oxy/Acetylene), and the XEWEA kit, using an impact wrench, are the best ideas.
I have had terrific success with Mouse Milk
It has never failed for me. As other posters have said whatever chemical you try, it doesn't work instantly. I've let my problems marinate overnight with this stuff.
It has never failed for me. As other posters have said whatever chemical you try, it doesn't work instantly. I've let my problems marinate overnight with this stuff.
Correction: They shear the NUT through to the thread.
Once again, I'd mix some 50% acetone and 50% automatic transmission fluid and douse those things 2/3 times a day for a while.
I make my own brew ATF and Acetone, 10 to 1 mix. let the soak overnight and break them loose in the morning
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
I would try to fix it in place using a sealant called Flat Out
If you still try to get it off spray penetrating oil along the seam of the center circle of the wheel and hub and probably on the back side joint so the wheel can be removed when the nuts are off
If you still try to get it off spray penetrating oil along the seam of the center circle of the wheel and hub and probably on the back side joint so the wheel can be removed when the nuts are off
Do all the things others have said with penetrating oil. One thing I would do before I started that is get a wire brush on a grinder or drill and remove the heavy rust from the tip of the stud. Done this many times and makes removal of the nut much easier. Glad you saved this tractor. Great machine.
Lil Foot
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator
Knew a guy who had an old International (50s?) semi tractor logging truck that had sat for decades in the rain. He wanted to get it running, and the first thing was usable tires.
After several people had failed to break the lug nuts loose, he asked me what I would do.
I drilled a hole about .060-.070 diameter into the top of the nuts, downward at a 45 degree angle, to the thread interface. Then we put a few drops of Kroil in each hole, a couple times a day for two or three days.
Most of them came loose with a long breaker bar, a few needed the impact, but they all came off intact.
After several people had failed to break the lug nuts loose, he asked me what I would do.
I drilled a hole about .060-.070 diameter into the top of the nuts, downward at a 45 degree angle, to the thread interface. Then we put a few drops of Kroil in each hole, a couple times a day for two or three days.
Most of them came loose with a long breaker bar, a few needed the impact, but they all came off intact.
Ok, great number of responses, mouse milk never heard of it, here on Kauai the selection of PO is limited, but have deep creep, and PB blaster. Will post after taking action. I thought if there was a way to get the tire re-inflated in place, will look into flat out. Will lightly grind the tips of the studs as suggested.
Thought about cutting the lug nuts down to alongside the stud, then use a cold chisel to knock the lug nut off the stud. I'll be working on this and when I get to some definitive point will repost the action. The Irish have a saying "with action comes wisdom".
Thanks again for the helpful responses, will make my way slowly and surely ....
Thought about cutting the lug nuts down to alongside the stud, then use a cold chisel to knock the lug nut off the stud. I'll be working on this and when I get to some definitive point will repost the action. The Irish have a saying "with action comes wisdom".
Thanks again for the helpful responses, will make my way slowly and surely ....
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
And remember to try to turn the nut both directions and clean threads out as you go
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TheOldHokie
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
- Use a small wire wheel to remove as much rust as you can from the exposed threads.
- Apply a penetrating oil to the threads - PB Blaster is my choice - and allow it to work for 30-60 minutes
- Zip the nuts off with an impact wrench and 6 point impact socket.
- Replace any studs and nuts that break.
Dan
Or split the nuts. Then cleanup the threads and run a die over them. When done, nickel never seize the threads. First thing I did to my BX2680 (the nickel never seize part) so when I eventually need to take I tire off, I will be able to.
I am not a fan of breaking anything when trying to repair it. I rarely if ever use a power tool to remove anything that is stuck. I have broken my share of nuts and bolts through the years, and on more than one occasion if I had taken my time it would have come loose and in the end, I wouldn't have spent nearly as much time looking for replacements for broken nuts or bolts. As for studs being inexpensive, that is great if you can purchase the correct studs. I have had some 1950s, 1960s, 1970s, and even 1980s cars that I couldn't find replacement studs at any of the auto parts stores because they were obsolete. Try finding a rear axle stud for a 1969 Cadillac Commercial Chassis. They are scarcer than hen's teeth. This is why I always recommend the best way that I have learned from over 60 years of working on machinery. Everyone has their favorite way of attacking a problem, and in many cases, there is no right or wrong. It is what is best for you to get the job done. Best of luck with resolving your rusted stud nut removal project. If you want to send me an airline ticket, I would be happy to come out and give you a hand with it. Just not sure that I will be able to bring along my arsenal of tools to work on it. 
Now that it runs, you only need a good breaker bar that will reach the ground…
I thought tractor owners were country folks
