Front mount flail mower from mid PTO

Paul Allwood

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
Kubota B7200HSTD, RC60-72H MMM, homemade FEL, forks & ballast box, rotary hoe
Jul 8, 2025
662
1,159
93
Baranduda, Victoria, Australia
I'll throw this out there just in case you haven't considered it.

When you put the tabs on the roller for the flail blades mount them in a helix pattern.
It will self balance that way.
And it takes less hp to power them.
Thanks - I haven't worked out a final layout, but some sort of helix is what I'm planning.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users

Runs With Scissors

Well-known member

Equipment
L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
Jan 25, 2023
3,923
5,281
113
Michigan
Thats looking awesome man!

I love those “jigs” that you made.

Very elegant solutions, keep up the good work sir! (y) (y)
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users

Paul Allwood

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
Kubota B7200HSTD, RC60-72H MMM, homemade FEL, forks & ballast box, rotary hoe
Jul 8, 2025
662
1,159
93
Baranduda, Victoria, Australia
I started trying to workout the layout for the flail tabs on the drum on the bench in the shed yesterday. Aiming for:
- Multiple lines of tabs along the drum with each line in some form of helix
- Flails from one line to the next offset to provide overlap so there are no spots that don't get cut
- No contact between flail Y-blades

After trying for a while I gave up and decided to try to model it in CAD. I had only ever used Solidworks but couldn't resolve a license issue so instead I tried the free web-based version of Onshape. There's a bit of a learning curve to get started with Onshape bit the general idea is the same. After spending a few hours with Onshape today I think I already prefer it to Solidworks.

I think I've come up with a tab layout that will work, but it's really hard to pick a view that makes it clear.

Screenshot_20260802-173106~2.jpg

Screenshot_20260802-173003~2.jpg

Screenshot_20260802-173136~2.jpg

Screenshot_20260802-173233~2.jpg

I added the Y-blades to the model to confirm that they cannot hit each other. Tomorrow I'll start tack welding the tabs in place and double check that the blades cannot touch.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users

Paul Allwood

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
Kubota B7200HSTD, RC60-72H MMM, homemade FEL, forks & ballast box, rotary hoe
Jul 8, 2025
662
1,159
93
Baranduda, Victoria, Australia
I marked out the cutter drum and made a start on tack welding the tabs in place today.

Here's the jig I made to hold the tabs in place for tack welding.

PXL_20260803_060529897.MP~2.jpg

PXL_20260803_060534756.MP~2.jpg

Here's one line of tabs tacked in place.

PXL_20260803_045517748.MP~2.jpg

PXL_20260803_045456009.MP~2.jpg

This is as close as the flail blades can get to touching - pretty much matches what I was able to model in Onshape.

PXL_20260803_060153327.MP~2.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

Paul Allwood

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
Kubota B7200HSTD, RC60-72H MMM, homemade FEL, forks & ballast box, rotary hoe
Jul 8, 2025
662
1,159
93
Baranduda, Victoria, Australia
All the tabs are now tack welded onto the drum.

PXL_20260803_072420946.MP~2.jpg


 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

Yooper

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
3901 LA525
May 31, 2015
1,736
916
113
NE Wisconsin
Paul, when you weld out the tabs I suggest you stagger the welds to minimize warping. IOW, weld one set and then rotate 180 and weld another set on the opposite end. Rinse and repeat. When done you can put it between centers in your lathe if it’s long enough and weld on some flat stock to balance it. If there’s a business that services car/truck driveshafts that could dynamically balance it close by, better yet.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user