I have a 2002 Kubota BX22MLB, or the 2200 with a backhoe. My current problem has been festering for years, and that is the Control Lever for the front bucket has gotten very sloppy. I almost cannot curl the bucket at this point. I have taken off the shield and removed the assembly down to the valve. The pin in the base of the control handle looks good, but the hole thru the base of the control handle, where the pin resides is definitely worn larger than the pin. I am hoping the handle is available, or I am guessing I will have to drill it out and find a snug fitting pin. Any suggestions?
Front Bucket Control Lever
- Thread starter Maxxsam
- Start date
Looks like there is a s/n break and both versions are NLA.
Thats a sjmple part I woild cut the pivot block off the end, make a new replacement, and weld it back on.
Dan
Runs With Scissors
Well-known member
Equipment
L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
The one problem I would have with drilling it out is that the valve that it controls will have to be drilled out larger as well.
This could be problematic for a couple of different reasons.
#1. There is not enough "meat" left on the valve....Hence severely weakening it.
#2. Once you drill out the valve..."There ain't no going home Toto"....so if it don't work, you have created a "bigger problem"..
I'm not trying to be a "Debbie Downer", just trying to help think ahead.
I agree with @TheOldHokie , if you can't find a replacement, making a new base would be a rather simple task, even if you don't have "all the right tools".
As I type this I am formulating a plan. (with the presumption you don't have the proper tooling/welder to make one......Sort of a "Bush League fix"
)
I think a "crude new one" could be made with minimal tooling.
Things needed........Hacksaw, drill and a few drill bits, tap...moderate amount of patience/skill
See awful picture below.
All holes could be drilled by hand, then tap the "side hole" for a threaded rod from the local hardware store.
Just sayin.....
This could be problematic for a couple of different reasons.
#1. There is not enough "meat" left on the valve....Hence severely weakening it.
#2. Once you drill out the valve..."There ain't no going home Toto"....so if it don't work, you have created a "bigger problem"..
I'm not trying to be a "Debbie Downer", just trying to help think ahead.
I agree with @TheOldHokie , if you can't find a replacement, making a new base would be a rather simple task, even if you don't have "all the right tools".
As I type this I am formulating a plan. (with the presumption you don't have the proper tooling/welder to make one......Sort of a "Bush League fix"
)I think a "crude new one" could be made with minimal tooling.
Things needed........Hacksaw, drill and a few drill bits, tap...moderate amount of patience/skill
See awful picture below.
All holes could be drilled by hand, then tap the "side hole" for a threaded rod from the local hardware store.
Just sayin.....
I just replaced a similar lever on a LA525 and that pivot block is about as simple as it gets. Its just a steel cube with two cross drilled holes.The one problem I would have with drilling it out is that the valve that it controls will have to be drilled out larger as well.
This could be problematic for a couple of different reasons.
#1. There is not enough "meat" left on the valve....Hence severely weakening it.
#2. Once you drill out the valve..."There ain't no going home Toto"....so if it don't work, you have created a "bigger problem"..
I'm not trying to be a "Debbie Downer", just trying to help think ahead.
I agree with @TheOldHokie , if you can't find a replacement, making a new base would be a rather simple task, even if you don't have "all the right tools".
As I type this I am formulating a plan. (with the presumption you don't have the proper tooling/welder to make one......Sort of a "Bush League fix"
I think a "crude new one" could be made with minimal tooling.
Things needed........Hacksaw, drill and a few drill bits, tap...moderate amount of patience/skill
See awful picture below.
All holes could be drilled by hand, then tap the "side hole" for a threaded rod from the local hardware store.
View attachment 179770
Just sayin.....
In my world the toughest part is the welding.
Dan
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Take these two parts to a machine shop and have them repair the hole diameter to match the pin size.
You could also get a bushing to install into the handle hole.
You could also get a bushing to install into the handle hole.
Bushing it woukd be ldeal but look closely. Likely not enough wall thickness to bush it. The later version had a larger block and a replaceable bushing
Dan