Fixing hole in side of block

[joesmith123]

Flush out your dlirty hydraulic lines, hopefully get your robot fix



i point to the input line coming into transmission from hydraulic pump

Take this off completely, get your engine running, pump all the fluid out this line, dont let that dirt and metal get into your transmission

Then once that main line fully clean, get engine running, go and start to take off completely lines that you want to flush out

Engine is running, take off hoses, move the FEL lever until you push fluid out those lines, clear out all lines and cylinders etc

please critique the approach to clean all your hydraulic line

clean up your work space, tighten you all the lines using all your wrenches

you'll never appreciate a hydraulic system until you go through and tighten each line, there are so many

tighten you all lines lines just enough to get your cleaning protocol going, not permanently

take off the end completely of the back end, where it will spit out

now: take off engine compression, spin you that engine make hydraulic pressuure, spit you out everything out that line,

from the engine, it go through all those lines you just setup, go through your FEL valve, and come back out the rear end

you're a bit nervous something not hooked up properly, open you up some ports so that if it is plugged,

it would not put all the pressure on the hydraulic pump and push hydraulic fluid into engine...

November 24, 2024

youtube.com

turn off engine compression, turn on your hillbilly ignition, open you up port on FEL valve, push you out that dirty fluid, rid your line of the bad stuff

now: close you up that port, but leave the back port open, pump you out that contaminant

November 24, 2024

youtube.com

yes, you got your receipt that, the line is circulating fine and is not gonna do that thing that wolf said,

where the line is plugged somewhere and you fixing to damage hydraulic pump

now, you can get your engine running, and open up the lines going to the cylinders, take them all off on one end, and

start playing with your lever pushing contanimant out those lines

since you have 4 cylinders, dont take off all 8 lines, just take one line off each cylinder and that hyraulic fluid should clear everything in the system...

November 24, 2024

youtube.com

articulate what just happen:

turn engine on, get you some hydraulic pressure, big leak right where you thought, the lines that could not flare

move you those levers, try to clear you out your cylinders, did not work because:

leaks are so massive, it cannot put pressure on that cylinder, and

since you have one side not connected, you cannot fill that cylinder up and then expel the contaminant

focus you on that big leak, at the lines that you couldnt flare, tighten up the rear connection, most connections

then, pump you some pressurized fluid into your cylinders, and yes the robot should move so be ready for that

then, open up those intake on the cylinder and the contaminant should come out

how you going to fix that big leak at those lines that you couldnt flare?

clean that area up with solvent, put you some carpet over the big hydraulic mess, first tighten them and see how much she leak, then if she still leak,

get under there with the aceytelene torch, and try to seal those leaks up since you dont have the right plumbing etc

fasten you all the lines on everything, nervous that the robotic might knock the tractor off of its blocks, put you the wheel back on

now: get her running, push your level up down left right, the robotics should move, since

the pathway will be completed for the fluid to flow, plan: get fluid inside your cylinders, then take out the back connection multiple time to try to push out some crud, and

take each connection off at the cylinder, allow some contanimant to get out that way,

be mindful and keep those eyes protected

November 24, 2024

youtube.com

tighten all the lines, put more pressure on the cylinders, they wont budge

maybe: they did sit out in elements for years and water got in there and seize the inside

either take your cylinders off and rebuild them, or spend $500 on 4 cylinders...

experiment: take you off couple cylinders, see if you can figure out how to take it apart, try to unseize them, you can even test them out not installed by rigging it up to the tractor

unbelieveable, your little weld job on the busted manifold holding, no black smoke dirtying up engine bay

another crazy surprise: your connection that was hard to flare is actually not leaking, I still cant believe it

spend an hour throwing everything you can getting the pin out, thinking:

"there was a zero percent chance that any of those cylinders were going to move after sitting 9-12 year out in the element"

get you off that second pin, take out the cylinder, see if you can take it apart

after 1.5 hour heating/diesel/chisel/sledgehammer, finally got your cylinder remove

take apart cylinder: at a glance, it need to be clamped down, get you a pipe wrench, try to loosen top,

look at diagram, see how it screws into itself, and then see if you can take it apart

you study this diagram until you understand how it come apart, maybe go hammer on that other cylinder pin and get that 2nd bucket cylinder remove

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

Your flare tool and fittings, if typical fittings for that type tool, are completely inadequate and dangerous for this job. Don't do it!

Judging by the -one- video I saw of moving the tractor, anything more than a garden hose should be fine. (It's possible things changed since then and the engine is putting out more torque, that part I'm unaware of.)

This job isn't a Thai long-tail boat, it's a street repair (where anything can be made to run), painted to look like something it's not. Probably don't need to worry about the quality of the hydraulics at this point.

 

[joesmith123]

Unseize pins, clean out your cylinders

separate your cylinder using hammers chisels, vice grip, etc

look you inside your cylinder, filled with ton of dirt/metal

turns out, all that debris was completely blocking the flow of the fluid

clean you everything and put back together

definitely way easier than expected

the most seized metal I ever come across, torch like no other, hammering like no tomorrow, bring out the grinding wheel, went through an entire jar of diesel

1.5 hour later, finally got the pin out, unbelieveable

you cant stand up to do anything about anything, that seize pin took so much from you

get you contraptions to push that piston up and separate it

that seize metal took you out

 

[Chanceywd]

I may be wrong but in looking at the tubes you ran after cutting into the pressure line. If that first one is from the pump and you connected it to the right side of the valve it could be wrong. I would think that it would be on the left and the one going to the back of the tractor is your return. Yeah you introduce a lot of junk into your cylinders and they need to be cleaned but if those 2 lines are crossed nothing may work right.
Just passing thru and observing, by no means an expert on hydraulics, but have done my own .

 

[D2Cat]

Joe, I was going to mention the other day, when you have light rust like you showed on your grill....take aluminum foil and wad up some to make a ball. Rub this on the rust (like you're trying to polish it) and it will come right off.

 

[joesmith123]

clean your cylinder, grind down where the pins hold the cylinder, mock it up and test hydraulic

clean you 2nd cylinder withouut taking out bottom pin, compress air and solvent, and files, etc, get all the dirt out

clean you out where the pins slide using hard wire wheel or big drill bit

grind down the pins so they slide easily, reinstall both cylinder, see if your cleaning worked

clean you out those pins, now they slide easy, put in your cylinder, fasten hydraulic line

Start you up your tractor, get you hydraulic pressure, play with the valve and see if you can move the bucket, nope

something still wrong

If that first one is from the pump and you connected it to the right side of the valve it could be wrong. I would think that it would be on the left and the one going to the back of the tractor is your return.

your finger touching the two lines to switch, you fixing to maybe try to switch the input and output you ran from your hydraulic pump into the FEL valve

switch you out those two lines, try again, nope

something else is wrong: maybe the route I have them connected is wrong

look at the diagram, see if your lines are proper

could also be the leak that you havent fixed yet

There is a smaller leak where I spliced the hydraulic line, maybe

that leak is stopping it from building enough pressure to move the heavy bucket...

 

[joesmith123]

diagnose hydraulic problem

fix you that leak underneath, you couldnt bend you that metal straight enough to get it to fasten properly, fix it

Spend you some time retracing each line

I retraced line 1 which is bucket down, its route:

Controller - goes to top of bucket cylinder, to extend it down

Line 2: go to bottom bucket cylinder

you did look at diagram and that is how they have it

Fix you that leak where you spliced, tighten you all the lines, raise the RPM a bit

I have seen machines unable to move hydraulics without big rpm due to many leaks

November 26, 2024

youtube.com

the leak is so big at the connections you couldnt flare, that

I pop off hydraulic line at the cylinder, and zero evidence of any pressure, meaning

the system cannot build any pressure because the leaks wont let it

fix you those leaks, then try again, there are a different non flare fitting available, try those, if not, weld you on your fitting and seal it shut, maybe take out the line completely to do your weld...

take you off the lines that have leak

weld you that collar onto the line in the position shown in photo

long as that collar seal to that pipe, your screw tapered fitting will seal that leak

do that for both line, maybe: hydraulic fluid in system too low to build pressure, put you some fluid and raise RPM for next try

weld you on that fitting you couldnt flare

grind it down enough so the female screw can go above it and make th seal

put you another weld on the outside of the female piece and the hydraulic,

make you your own plumbing, dont rely on the part store

This is the 2nd flaring that was leaking one of the harder welds you need to do:

bend you that line down away from tractor, get you in the prone position flame pointing forward, lay you that bronze trying to fill the gap, lay you on your side, bring the bronze in from back left and the flame from right side and melt you that backside that you couldnt see

if that weld dont leak, it would be a surprise

Hook you everything back up, no

Your welds did not stop the leak, both weld have tiny leak

Rethink your whole strategy then proceed

notice that it is not pushing out fluid, but air

Put you some hydraulic fluid, it gushes out the top get your new paint cover in transmission fluid

robot move!

put you 4-5 gallon hydraulic fluid, turn on your engine, pump sounded way different, had no pressure before, turn your levers,

robot start to move, pop out your two cylinders that you cleaned but you improperly put them back together,

there is a ring that I damaged and dont know how to reinstall that hold the cylinder from coming apart

lesson: sometime the problem way simpler than you think, go smoke you some fatty meat and the answer reveal itself

up close of you putting in the ring, it keep the cylinder from popping out

you mustve spent 1 plus getting those rings in, only in the end you found a way to get it in:

chisel it in, millimeter by millimeter, strike right where it enters

finally, you hook everything back up, turn on your engine

you can hear ton of hydraulic pressure in the system

you turn your lever to move your robot, that fitting you welded pops off and she shooting hydraulic oil high pressure, shut engine off

 

[Lil Foot]

Is that copper tube?

The maximum working pressure for a 1/2 in copper tube is 769 psi at 100°F,

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Is that copper tube?

The maximum working pressure for a 1/2 in copper tube is 769 psi at 100°F,

I wish I knew where 'on earth' he is, so I could stay far away.

 

[Ktrim]

WOW

 

[Ktrim]

Just keeps getting better. Or worse, however you want to look at it.

 

[Workerbee]

Joe, your use if the term ‘you’ in everything you describe, makes it sound like you fancy yourself as the teacher. But before you can teach you have to learn. Pay attention to the advice lots have given you. Can you really afford to piss away all you have on two junk heaps that won’t function again, simply because you were going to do it your way?

 

[D2Cat]

I wish I knew where 'on earth' he is, so I could stay far away.

If I knew where he lived and he would allow it, I'd go visit!

 

[hagrid]

Bring a soil sample kit.

I am understandably curious.

 

[joesmith123]

today could be the day you get your robot fix

get you under that tractor, fix you that line that pop off

might try to flare it again, and hit it hard with torch as you flare it, hoping somehow that help it flare enough to seal, if that don't work

take you off tons of brackets etc, get you that line off completely, then you can get a good solid weld on it

get these statement on the record before they are lost

your best weld will be right when you wake up, the first thing you do

even one disturbance of your peace will ruin the weld

the flame: you notice better result with higher proportion oxygen, a tiny strong flame off the tip will do the magic

if it glob up and does not want to get into the crevice:

dont forget @hagrid statment 30 or 35 page ago:

capillary, more heat on where you want it to bind,

and sometimes, you can just hit with flame, the big round glob, and it will melt into your desired area without the need of the rod in your left hand

(back to task)

grind you down where your fitting pop off, slide you in another fitting, fasten it tight

bend hydraulic line down, brush the area with solvent,

bring you out that big flame and make you some magic trying to seal it again

dont bend back everything into place until all those leaks are finished, use a hydraulic hose and get engine running, see if she still leak

November 27, 2024

youtube.com

"you happy now? finally got your robot fix"

that weld you just did has zero leak, take you off your other leaking weld and fix it, reinstall it, then

go carve you some earth

make you your own plumbing, eliminate any chance of leak, do big oxygen and tiny acetylene

let it cool down, dip in bucket of water, install it, see if it still leak

November 27, 2024

youtube.com

you aint carving no earth

ton of leaks: bottom of 2 cylinders that you cleaned, tiny leak on your last weld, leak where input into transmission, might have dropped the seal, check it again

you want to carve earth but you cant, leaks are too big, also

it has big trouble lowering the lift, it almost want to shut off engine, why?

Fluid inside so dirty, it is messing with the flow of hydraulics causing system to come to halt, ie straining the engine

does not happen with the cylinders you cleaned

carved you some earth, hydraulics now fully stuck, i dont think it is low on fluid but maybe, keep carving earth

later: take out all loader cylinders and clean them and seal them surgically, now

enjoy the machine doing the work for once

 

[Lil Foot]

Bring a soil sample kit.

No need.
Soil will consist of diesel, solvent, paint residue, grease, hydraulic oil, motor oil, grinding dust, bronze brazing blobs, sweat, lost parts, and sand.
(proportions may vary)

 

[retired farmer]

No need.
Soil will consist of diesel, solvent, paint residue, grease, hydraulic oil, motor oil, grinding dust, bronze brazing blobs, sweat, lost parts, and sand.
(proportions may vary)

Might add blood to that list

 

[TheOldHokie]

No need.
Soil will consist of diesel, solvent, paint residue, grease, hydraulic oil, motor oil, grinding dust, bronze brazing blobs, sweat, lost parts, and sand.
(proportions may vary)

You left out blood. This is my first and last time looking at this thread. Somethings you just cant fix.

Dam

 

[D2Cat]

You left out blood. This my first and last time looking at this thread. Sonethings you just cant fix.

Dam

You know you can't resist. You'll be back !!!

 

[Henro]

You left out blood. This is my first and last time looking at this thread. Somethings you just cant fix.

Dam

I don't think the dam is working...posts are still flowing past it!