Fixing hole in side of block

[D2Cat]

I need to replace a bushing for my Kubota front end quick connect, Kubota wants $50. Do you think I can use a stack of washers?
1-1/8" OD x 5/8" ID x 15/16" long.

Do your really think a bushing is necessary? Put a piece of hose over the bolt and install.

 

[joesmith123]

put big bolt on loader to tractor, put together all the hydraulic that control loader

loader almost attach to tractor, get big bolt and washer on all 8 connecting bolts on 4 side of tractor

start to figure out the hydraulic, some connectors are rusted out, weld on new ones

basically: clear the area, bring all hoses/fittings and get it figured out

yes, finally back at the shop, declare more task so it is on the record:

dont forget to adjust the idle (should have done it before putting on loader)

also, I can install some of the other parts that are orange: dash pieces, exhaust hanger, put the hood on, try to run it without access to decompression knob, etc

summary: put all bolts connecting loader to tractor with big washers on both side, fasten tight

clear out entire area, bring a pallet and bring all hydraulic hoses and fittings to it,

make progress on these task in the beautiful perfect shade, grateful to be at this point

@Henro

you are not admiring my approach, you are joesmith deep down, just take the filter off and let her eat

This thread is a mirror showing you nature/yourself...

remove all cinderblock and lumber away from area, clear your workspace

(i write this to talk to you or myself if I read this later)

Here's a pile of lumber/cinderblock that was used to put the loader on, and the infinite amount of cheap jack to line up bolts, and the DEEP crawling on ground trying to get the bolts in

I was thinking: why does this make me so dizzy and consume all my power?

That task where you bend down get real deep underneath, then have to lift your entire existence over a little washer,

is a huge energy consumer. I am at the point where I want to rig up massive structure above machines, then I simple lift up entire machine and make those areas accessible and not make me dizzy

you cannot "work hard" because you'll be so tired and unable to make progress, and not get the gold...

bring the blocks back out because you cant reach anything underneath without getting a head injury

spend another hour chest to the ground getting blocks in place

yes, deep in this region, cutting your arms tightening the bolts, trying to emulate how it was,

dont make it too perfect, rig it back up good enough,

got the bolts fully fastened on rear of tractor to loader connection, rig up the side piece that hold the exhaust hanger, clamp around exhaust

now: do the other side cover, get the biggest bolts laying around and put them on front bracket of tractor to loader connection,

might take off steering wheel, and put the dash over the diesel tank, move my glowplug/start switches, etc

keep reassembling, dont make yourself too dizzy, comprehend the task and how big it is/was,

"dont be in big hurry to get going sincce you already put 5-6 month of labor, whats the hurry all of a sudden?"

some methods being using to line the bolt holes: crow bar and lumber, cheap jack pushing up on loader,

got both side pieces that connect to fender and tractor attach, got the exhaust hanging fastened, put all 8 bolts fully fasten that hold loader to tractor, and the 6 bolts that hold tractor to loader front side

take off steering wheel, put the diesel tank cover, figure out your switches, bring all the hydraulic fittings and hoses to the tractor

narrate more once you get to that point

slow your roll, go smoke some meat, try to enjoy the reassembly...

while fatty meat smoke, you fasten the hardware, take out steering wheel, take out your switches, install dash, put few bols to mock everything, put the hood on, put steering wheel back on

"woah there she is, coming back to life, going back in time..."

Take hood back off, clear out a pallet, bring all the hydraulic part, bring the hydraulic controller, mount it...

she's mean, angry, ready to tear the earth, you can sense it

clear out a pallet, bring all jic 8 fitting/hose/ and the controller

mount the controller, start to mock the hose connection...

controller: take it apart, clean with compress air and diesel, mock it up onto tractor, drill one hole to fit another bolt

last I mocked this up, it fell and tractor ran it over, now the levers are not turning

plan: get the bolts on it tight, put real pressure on the switch trying to see if it can work again

 

[Henro]

put big bolt on loader to tractor, put together all the hydraulic that control loader

View attachment 142451

loader almost attach to tractor, get big bolt and washer on all 8 connecting bolts on 4 side of tractor

start to figure out the hydraulic, some connectors are rusted out, weld on new ones

basically: clear the area, bring all hoses/fittings and get it figured out

Joe, I have to say I kind of admire your approach.

Personally, I have to understand what I am doing before I do it! Seems like you approach things differently, but things work out in the end...

 

[rudder35]

yes, reinstall orange parts, get L295 attach to its freshly painted loader, and other many tiny task

View attachment 142327

ton of task going through your mind: fix the seat, put on the fenders, take off steering wheel, reinstall the dash and components, cant put the hood on because I need access to the decompression lever, somehow fix that later on so you can put the hood on,

simplify plan and be practical:

fix the seat, put on the fenders, put on all wheels and get it off block, raise the loader, get L295 attach to the loader,

then at that point you can do ton of task including:

hydraulics for loader, put the hood and maybe salvage the decompression mechanism, maybe move my switches from the diesel tank to the dash, put the exhaust hanger,

View attachment 142328

grind down sharp plastic, focus on the bolts and alignment,

View attachment 142331


grind down seat, hit with compress air, got 2 or 3 bolt on the seat more straight, good enough for now, put towel over it, keep show moving

View attachment 142333

install fenders, seat no longer sharp, all it needed was 5 minute grinding wheel

put on all 4 wheel, get L295 off of block, lift up on loader, ease L295 into position to get bolted to its loader...


View attachment 142348

get the wheel on, lift up on tractor, take out all blocks, she back on her feet

dont scratch paint too much when putting wheel back on

assess the charging/hillbilly ignitiioin situation, get her started, go get her connected to the loader

i wish bx1500 was not fully seized, I would lift up and down on loader using its 3 point hitch,

as I get L295 chassis bolts to line up with the massive freshly painted loader

View attachment 142359

small win: the hillbilly ignition work. It killed the battery, recharged it, and started without a jump, and

seat actually comfortable in the state it is in

move L295, line it up with rails on loader

View attachment 142358

rails have to be lifted where I point to clear chassis,

lift up on the rails using cheap jack, get over the hump, move L295 forward, drop loader rails, align all bolt hole, get bolts in there

View attachment 142360

keep lifting up on loader until axle goes past the brackets, then drop the loader, move L295 forward, line up front bolt holes, then rest of bolt hole

View attachment 142363

wrestle around in the dirt getting blocks in place, get up maneuver L295 slowly forward, get back in the dirt, lift up on certrain areas, almost got bolts lined up

View attachment 142377

somehow got 2 bolt in one corner, lift up on bucket with cheap jack, get your dolly underneath, now

use dolly to pull left/right, use cheap jack to lift up/down, get your bolts in, make sure you put washer, fasten them tight

Finally got the six bolt that hold front of loader, and got a mock bolt into the four corners holding onto tractor

this task take way more out of me than all the engine/piston/gear work,

underneath machine, covered in dirt, one wrong move and you injure yourself especially head,

in the dirt, dragging blocks all over, going deep underneath to fasten a bolt, dont forget a single detail or you wear yourself out from too much motion

unable to move single muscle, covered in dirt and kubota orange, narrative ask:

"now you see how deep you were in that engine and how much work it take to get to it?"

Joe,
If you stop by a carpet store their dumpster will usually have carpet you can get for free to cover the dirt.

 

[hagrid]

This universe doesn't have that much carpet.

 

[Workerbee]

Maybe he could finish up with pergo

 

[joesmith123]

Figure out hydraulics

drill out new hole for bolt to hold controller, fit 2 strong bolt hold controller well

take off boot that cover controller solenoid, hit solenoids with hammer, successfully able to move lever now

now: study the lines and guess where they go trying to use hillbilly logic, connect controller to the hardlines, assess the whole situation

Plumbing hydraulics, plan it out

Ok yes I understand: 4 lines going to 4 hydraulics that have in/out ports, total 8 lines to control everything

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

Do your really think a bushing is necessary? Put a piece of hose over the bolt and install.

I'm just going to use a carrot, it's already orange.

At least I didn't run over my hydraulic valve body...cringey. But I also didn't smoke a fatty, so I didn't leave it lying lost in the dirt.

Speaking of smoking a fatty, anyone notice:

 

[D2Cat]

Joe, when you get your paint on the hyd fitting internal threads and flared seat you could have a problem getting it buttoned up!

 

[joesmith123]

Hydraulic continued

use hillbilly logic to imagine where the lines go, left/right of controller go to bucket, up/down on controller go the arms of loader

the controller: where i point is what I think is the input / output from transmission to controller

beside the 8 line that control your hydraulic arms, there are another 2 lines:

1. transmission to controller
2. controller to transmission

When taking apart the other L295 tractor, I remember noticing a line out of the transmission

I assume this line go the the controller input

But, what about the controller output? How does that get back to transmission?

go make progress on the lines that you know need to be mocked, while you let question marinate of the unknown line

basically, consume all the plumbing that you already have while figuring out the rest of the hydraulic

tasks available: get your 8 lines connected, mocked, installed, weld on new fittings where it rusted, do metal work etc

if that task done, get nice fabric lying around, cut and cover onto seat, self tap in screw and big washer on to back to hold it tight

take off steering wheel, give it nice smooth jb weld job and fresh black paint to smooth out the cracks of 45 year old steering wheel

make hardline hydraulics: yes, I remember dinosaur teaching me to make hard hydraulic line, and I do have flaring tool, and male/female connectors, and extra hydraulic hoses to do:

if you cant run rubber hydraulic line from transmission to controller, make a hardline and then use a small rubber hydraulic line, start to imagine that task

Everything is jic 8 and can easily fit together

escalate your hydraulic effort: bring cheap table close to tractor, bring all hydraulic related part

decide to come straight up out of the controller, and bend into the 4 port

2 bigger hoses can be half foot shorter, having trouble consuming the smaller hoses intended for this area,

proceed: save those long hoses for the long shots, try to use 90s etc to make use out of the tiny hoses,

dont think about it too much, consume the parts that you have then later assess what you need

4 lines coming from controller, label them depending on the action of controller

in my case: 1 is right, 2 is left, 3/4 is up/down

dont worry if they are off, later once you get the hydraulic flowing, you can switch them at the controller, but

make sure the numbers match where they split, ie connect them in the way they are numbered in picture

adapter I have does not fit these factory fitting, check to see if others are like this, and figure out the conversion

count number of fitting needed for this conversion:

8 total fitting, 2 are rusted out

convert:
6 converson: (size could be 3/8 Im guessing) - jic 8 male or female

2 rusted out: get the proper drill bit that can fit the fitting you have tight, then weld it shut

take picture of exact fitting used for the rusted out ports

jic 8 fitting next to rusted out fittingg that was sliced

plan: get exact drill bit size of jic 8, drill out the hole bigger, get your fittin in tight, weld it on, or

try to figure out that method where you make thread, drill the hole out a bit bigger, then get that thread maker that would match the thread of my fittings (jic 8)

up close picture of fitting, ruler say 3/4 inch encompass even the thread

summarize so far what you need:

6 plumbing conversions to go from factory to our thread

drill bit that fit our thread to drill out those two cut ports

hoses: mock up what you have, then come back and articulate exact hose needs

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

Joe, when you get your paint on the hyd fitting internal threads and flared seat you could have a problem getting it buttoned up!

Not to worry, the grit in the hydraulic system will eventually plug any leaks.
(plus lower the hydraulic pressure enough so leaks are less of an issue)

 

[joesmith123]

More hydraulic

yes, mocked up all the hoses going to their final destination

let me know if 1 and 2 are OK being that short, I can also add 90s that would make the route easier on the eye,

My guess: probably get a few more 2 foot hoses just to cover if some are too short,

I can see 3 and 4 needing to be longer, since it extend forward, needing more slack

so far we need:

6 adapter that go from the factory smaller thread to our thread

really good quality drill bit exact size of fitting we want to put into the rusted out ports

quantity 2, two foot lines for connection 3

quantity 2, four foot lines for connection 4

at that point we should have enough long/short/medium hoses in case it is not correct

let it all marinate while you do other task since the two lines going from controller to transmission and back are not yet understood

find the port that come out of transmission, make sure you have that thread, then imagine the line going to the controller

find the return port from controller to transmission: imagine the route it take from controller to that location

you might need more hydraulic line for those connections

few task to do while you wait for nature to reveal answer:

make your adjustment on the idle: get her running, make half turns out on the idle until she start to see saw, then go in a quarter turn

take off steering wheel, make good batch jb weld, use small spatula to fill in the gaps, let it cure a bit, grind down the areas smooth

the seat: it is not bad in the state it is in, but sore on the eye

mayybe get black towel, cut it and fasten it to back of the seat

mightve found port that go to controller

this picture is the other L295 that this loader come off of

underneath your left foot is this port coming out of transmission,

I'm guessing take this one off and put it on the current L295, and make sure you can adapt to that thread

underneath left foot of current L295: bolt where that other tractor has that hydraulic line

Rear of L295 that had attachments: this is connected to the rear spindle

do I need this for the loader or is this just for the backhoe attachment?

clean front grill, reinstall onto hood

reinstall front grill headlight assembly, cant figure out how the hood sit on that bracket left in the picture

I remember having a rod that would go through the brackets that were welded, but

I cant connect the brackets properly, let it marinate

take off steering wheel, mix jb weld, get gloves, fix steering wheel

jb weld steering wheel, flip steering wheel, fill the low spots/cracks

let it cure, go adjust the idle, test out your hillbilly ignition, maybe find new mounting point for switches

turn idle adjustment half turn out, hillbilly ignition working fine, she start right up and charge battery,

hissing sound gone: she busted open her exhaust manifold, need a good weld since jb weld cannot handle the heat

she is idling fine, no see saw, and not shutting off on her own

L2773 loader: found this on kubotapad, and it even tell the size of the hoses, and they are 3/8

use this information to see the size hoses they use, and emulate those, and try to get the adapter to go from: 3/8 female - jic 8

jic 8 will screw into regular household 1/2'', today I think I confirmed that

yes, summarize the size hoses they use:

controller to hardlines, 4 hoses: 30 inches, hose 13 in the diagram

long hoses are 38 inches, quantity 2, hose 8 in the diagram

hose 10: front hoses that control bucket, all of them 19 inch length, quantity 4

hose 14: connect to short side of arm hydraulic, they are 10 inches, quantity 2

that should be it:

4 hose 30 inch
2 hose 38 inch
4 hose 19 inch
2 hose 10 inch

total: 12 hoses (8 plus 4)

 

[joesmith123]

How do the hydraulic lines run from controller to tractor and back?

hydraulic system:

I have no clue how the controller connect to the tractor

I read in WSM that one of these lines is pressure, and other is return

maybe 50 is pressure, and 10 is return?

Someone please shoot from the hip and tell me where to put the lines

A picture would help, or you can use the image and circle where you want me to run the line from the tractor to the controller

L295DT Hydraulic Issue

Im hoping someone out there can help me I have a 1979 L295 DT manual trans with only one hydraulic pump mounted to the rear of the fuel pump and a model 1200 loader with 2200 hrs that I only use occasionally Was using it the other day and loader and bucket functioned properly and shut it off...

www.orangetractortalks.com

I try to read this thread to decipher the answer, but there are no pictures or diagrams

ok here is simple plain diagram, study this diagram 6 or 7 time until you comprehend

Ok, the suction line is input into the controller, and the return line is output on the controller

suction line for this tractor would be:

that hydraulic gear near engine, somehow run that line to the controller, then

the return line would be that one I showed under left foot of the dissassembled L295 and the bolt I pointed to of the assembled L295

let me know if I am on the right track

Now: go get the 6 fittings to go from 3/8 to jic 8, get the drill bit that fit snug on that threaded jic 8, get a few hydraulic hoses just in case

take those fittings with you and take one hose while you go around, dont make any mistake

exhaust manifold busted open, you can feel it affect the idle

got these fittings: 3/8 MIP to 1/2 FL

installed 6 fittings, got them connected to the hose successfully

titanium drill bit that will be used to drill out the seized thread, then the 3/8 thread should fit snug, weld on it if it leak

go work on drilling out those ports and successfully getting hose attached, then finish up steering wheel

might have got one in successfully: use your titanium bit, bore out the seized metal, hit with compress air, come in with the diesel on brush, screw in the fitting,

try to make it straight, then do the same on the other fitting

took out crooked fitting, hit with torch/diesel/air, then screw fitting in straight and put hose on properly

the other seized fitting: extract it with your titanium bit, burn new paint with torch, hit with air/diesel

unbelieveable, seized fitting came out intact, and screwed on cheap fitting successfully, connected hose

all 12 hoses successfully connected, cannot proceed forward until I solve the suction/return lines going to/from the controller

few task you can do while hydraulic problem linger: grind down the steering wheel smooth, hit it with black paint, fully seal the exhaust manifold crack, decide what fabric to get to cover the damaged seat, make progress on the hood install

there is a front frame assembly that screw into the front mount of the loader, start to consider that area and how the hood mount to it

at this point, only 2 hydrauic line are stopping her from carving earth...

make a bit more progress until darkness, then spend hours nighttime researching the hydraulic problem

grind down jb weld, hand sand with 600 grit dip in diesel, brush with solvent multiple time, hit with compress air, hit with cheap paint

study diagram, figure out bracket that hold the hood so it swing forward

other bracket bolts seized and busted stuck on the frame

dab with diesel, hit with torch hard, tried loosening, wont budge

next chance you work: escalate effort, take wheel off, take hood off, extract stuck bolts with drill bit

 

[Russell King]

@joesmith123

Look at this diagram. There are brackets #90 attached to the battery tray that the hood pivots on.
On many old tractors the battery tray is mostly a rusted mess so you may have to improvise a structure to get the hood up high enough off the frame so it can rotate around the hinge points.

I used some square tube material that has holes spaced on all four sides.

to tap into the tractor hydraulic system see this thread that shows how a block on many old tractors was used

B7100 Hydraulic block diverter (70060-00360 or 70070-00385)

CURRENTLY SOLD OUT. Making more is a winter project. I will remove this line when I have made more. These are obsolete and no longer available. I have recently been contacted by a member asking if I will make him one of these after reading how I made mine. I know this comes up from time to time...

www.orangetractortalks.com

In the diagram you posted earlier that block would be in line #50 which is the pump outlet. Line #10 is the suction side feeding fluid into the pump. You can just cut that pipe #50 in two and use compression fittings to extend the pump side to the FEL valve and then from the FEL valve power out you would connect to the rear half that would then power the three point hitch and dump into the sump (to be pulled into the pump again).

You need to decide which pump you want to use, the tractor pump or the PTO pump to power the FEL. How was it done on the tractor that the FEL came from?

 

[joesmith123]

How was it done on the tractor that the FEL came from?

yes, these are pictures from the tractor the loader come from

The first picture: Pump attached to the rear PTO

2nd picture: They had a line coming out of a port, underneath your left foot if you're sitting on the tractor

I guess: they had the front end loader controller getting hydraulic pressure from the PTO pump (picture 1), and dumping into that line underneath left foot (picture 2)

To give power to the front end loader, you would have to engage the PTO, and once it spin, then you have power to the loader

(the engine running and the PTO on for loader to work)

But according to your statement: there is a way to give power to the hydraulic controller by splicing the line 050 and running a line into the loader controller, then


(I'm guessing) run the exit line from the loader controller to the port underneath left foot (picture 2)

yes, I read 5-6 page of that thread where they made a "block" that do the task that you are suggesting:

that pressure line coming out of the engine bay (050 in the diagram), you can come off of that line, and pump into this block, and from that block,

you can run all kind of things, long as you put a return line that will pump fluid back into the transmission

If you don't, wolf said as soon as you crank on the engine, and that fluid don't have anywhere to go, it will bust through the seal and maybe fill the engine with hydraulic oil

(going this route, if the engine is running, your loader will work WITHOUT PTO engaged)

(sorry I am just narrating my understanding, until it is comprehended)

You can just cut that pipe #50 in two and use compression fittings to extend the pump side to the FEL valve and then from the FEL valve power out you would connect to the rear half that would then power the three point hitch and dump into the sump (to be pulled into the pump again).

yes, keep reading this statement until it click

Narrate the route of the hydraulic pressure:

Hydraulic pump (engine bay), line 050 come down, cut it close to the FEL valve, don't put a TEE, route that line directly to the FEL valve,

Then run another line coming OUT the FEL valve, going to where it was originally/factory, which is underneath the seat (take picture)

I point to line 050, pressurized hydraulic line, and show you the FEL valve

Cut that line, route it up to the FEL valve, and route back from FEL exit into the remainder of the line

here is the line I use to make hardline hydraulics, it could be the same size as line 050

I think this is the input on the FEL valve

This could be the exit line coming off of the FEL valve, run a line back down and continue the route of line 050

I show you where line 050 go, top of transmission, right under your seat

summarize exact route of transmission fluid:

hydraulic pump - line 050 - you cut line 050 - go to input on your FEL valve - exit FEL valve and come DOWN back to where you cut line 050 - let her continue her journey to the factory route

basically, cut line 050, right side go the input on FEL valve, exit the FEL valve and come back down and connect to the other side of the cut hydraulic line

By the look of it and shooting from the hip, I COULD have everything necessary to make hardline that go from/to line 050 and FEL valve

Long as line 050 is the same size as the lines I made, I should have the flaring tool/compression/everything jic 8/ half inch flared fitting

escalate seized bolt effort: other side is holding up hood fine somewhat

but this side: take off wheel, hit the 2 seize bolt hard with torch and diesel, get proper bit, drill it out enough get a bolt in there, light on your feet keep show moving

busted exhaust manifold: grind it down, reveal all the crack, get all the welding tool ready: glasses, tanks, rods, maybe some flux, then always

take a moment of silence and commit that -

you keep your brain on where that flame pointed at all time

and really mean it, then

form big bronze puddle on that whole crack area, encompass all the leak

could not unseize studs, ended up making hole with drill bit, cut screw to right size, then get it tight in that hole and it make its own thread, its holding good enough

 

[joesmith123]

Hood installed, weld exhaust, continue hydraulic narrative

hood installed, both bolts and bracket holding, and weld on hood bracket holding for now

inside the area that i did hammering/welding/everything

open and close hood with some force, it sit fine in its natural state

clear out floor, get your welding supply, try to get the weld on exhaust without taking it off, but

take it off if you feel it is necessary

hit busted manifold with dab of diesel, front facing wire wheel, brush it with solvent, hit with compress air,

clear all the floor, bring all welding stuff close to you,

use a tiny flame, first hit the busted area with the flame, get it up to temp, come in with left hand flux coated bronze, seal it up, gravity on your side

cover your busted manifold with bronze

experiment: before bringing out the big torch, i sprinkle flux on the area, hit with regular torch, make a puddle of flux

then turn on big torch, watch where you point that flame, cover the damage,

now I understand why you need to remove parts since I only had one angle to point flame, see if she hold, if she dont, escalate effort

its so tight in there, you can barely get in there to grind away at your weld

declare task: dont take off frame of seat, take off individual plastic pieces you sit on, see if you can get replacement or get material that you can cover it DIY

dont start cutting the factory line until you fully have proper plan, but see if your fittings/flaring tool will work on it

hillbilly ignition: the power wire pulling on it, put a 90 on it and somehow release the tension the power wire putting on your hillbilly ignition

the battery not strapped fully down, secure it properly

dont put the wheel back on since you gotta do surgery on the hydraulic line coming from engine bay

summarize: grind down your fresh weld, fix the seat, fix the battery terminal and battery, look through your flare fittings and see if your compressions will work on the factory line

I honestly cannot think of anything else that need attention/bugging me

also, if you get the hydraulic figured out, do not let that dirty hydraulic fluid go back into the system, somehow:

take off all the hoses on one side, get hydraulic pressure going, push out all that mess inside the hoses/cylinders

there was ton of shards of metal during the extraction of those two fitting couple post ago, I wasnt able to get all of it out

then from the FEL valve power out you would connect to the rear half that would then power the three point hitch and dump into the sump (to be pulled into the pump again).

forget all those other task, focus on the hyraulic

this is the statement that made me see that i understand correctly, and to go ahead and cut line 050

picture: that is hydraulic line available, next to line 050 that needs to be cut, they look exact same size

narrate hydraulic plan: cut line 050, use 90s and straight shots to make your way up to FEL valve, then do the same coming back down

there is one small hose available if need be

use flaring tool to get your fittings proper

scout the job for 20-30 minute, imagining the route of both hydraulic lines, put your mark on where to cut hyraulic line

route lines will take: come toward me few inches, shoot right underneath bracket, then shoot straight up to the FEL valve

raise tractor even more, loosen the hydraulic line, go under tractor with cutoff wheel, cut your line at the mark, try to remove the two halves of the hydraulic line,

or if you cant remove them, try to flare them right there in place and build custom pieces all the way up to the FEL valve, without

getting it in the way of the brakes/brackets/etc, try to keep it snug to the frame of tractor

raise tractor 4 or 5 inch more, remove both ends of the hydraulic line, cut off anything holding it,

go in there with cut off wheel, slice it in half, shoot metal and transmission fluid on your eye protection

zoom in picture: try to flare them and start your plumbing

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Hood installed, weld exhaust, continue hydraulic narrative

View attachment 142725

hood installed, both bolts and bracket holding, and weld on hood bracket holding for now

View attachment 142726

inside the area that i did hammering/welding/everything

View attachment 142727

open and close hood with some force, it sit fine in its natural state

clear out floor, get your welding supply, try to get the weld on exhaust without taking it off, but

take it off if you feel it is necessary

View attachment 142731

hit busted manifold with dab of diesel, front facing wire wheel, brush it with solvent, hit with compress air,

clear all the floor, bring all welding stuff close to you,

use a tiny flame, first hit the busted area with the flame, get it up to temp, come in with left hand flux coated bronze, seal it up, gravity on your side

View attachment 142734

cover your busted manifold with bronze

experiment: before bringing out the big torch, i sprinkle flux on the area, hit with regular torch, make a puddle of flux

then turn on big torch, watch where you point that flame, cover the damage,

now I understand why you need to remove parts since I only had one angle to point flame, see if she hold, if she dont, escalate effort

its so tight in there, you can barely get in there to grind away at your weld

declare task: dont take off frame of seat, take off individual plastic pieces you sit on, see if you can get replacement or get material that you can cover it DIY

dont start cutting the factory line until you fully have proper plan, but see if your fittings/flaring tool will work on it

hillbilly ignition: the power wire pulling on it, put a 90 on it and somehow release the tension the power wire putting on your hillbilly ignition

the battery not strapped fully down, secure it properly

dont put the wheel back on since you gotta do surgery on the hydraulic line coming from engine bay

summarize: grind down your fresh weld, fix the seat, fix the battery terminal and battery, look through your flare fittings and see if your compressions will work on the factory line

I honestly cannot think of anything else that need attention/bugging me

also, if you get the hydraulic figured out, do not let that dirty hydraulic fluid go back into the system, somehow:

take off all the hoses on one side, get hydraulic pressure going, push out all that mess inside the hoses/cylinders

there was ton of shards of metal during the extraction of those two fitting couple post ago, I wasnt able to get all of it out

View attachment 142742



forget all those other task, focus on the hyraulic

this is the statement that made me see that i understand correctly, and to go ahead and cut line 050

picture: that is hydraulic line available, next to line 050 that needs to be cut, they look exact same size

narrate hydraulic plan: cut line 050, use 90s and straight shots to make your way up to FEL valve, then do the same coming back down

there is one small hose available if need be

use flaring tool to get your fittings proper

View attachment 142748

scout the job for 20-30 minute, imagining the route of both hydraulic lines, put your mark on where to cut hyraulic line

route lines will take: come toward me few inches, shoot right underneath bracket, then shoot straight up to the FEL valve

raise tractor even more, loosen the hydraulic line, go under tractor with cutoff wheel, cut your line at the mark, try to remove the two halves of the hydraulic line,

or if you cant remove them, try to flare them right there in place and build custom pieces all the way up to the FEL valve, without

getting it in the way of the brakes/brackets/etc, try to keep it snug to the frame of tractor

View attachment 142761

raise tractor 4 or 5 inch more, remove both ends of the hydraulic line, cut off anything holding it,

go in there with cut off wheel, slice it in half, shoot metal and transmission fluid on your eye protection

View attachment 142762

zoom in picture: try to flare them and start your plumbing

Your flare tool and fittings, if typical fittings for that type tool, are completely inadequate and dangerous for this job. Don't do it!

You're dealing with steel tubing and 3000psi class fittings here, not some domestic plumbing job. While I'm at it, I'll mention the malleable iron fittings in some of your earlier pictures - they're typically intended for 300psi only. Even if they were already there, that doesn't make them safe.

Oh, and BTW, you'll need to determine if your tubing is metric or imperial. And your loader needs to have a relief valve routed to the tank, since you're cutting in ahead of the existing one, to avoid dead-heading the pump.

Once you've figured out what you have, compression fittings for hydraulic service are available that don't require flaring. I used a couple on my third function installation and they've worked flawlessly.

 

[joesmith123]

run hydraulic line from and to FEL valve

get your files, get lines ready for flaring/coupling/plumbing

refamiliarize yourself with hydraulic fitting you had laying around

build first the hydraulic line going to the FEL, then if that one works, build the second one along the same path

try to flare your line with cheap flaring tool, it keep slipping, wont flare

yes, get you a bigger flaring tool, flared it a bit, enough to tighten the fitting, put in your first fitting

get hydraulic line, go underneath, mock it up and mark where to cut hydraulic line, cut it, flare it on both sides, and put you the female fittings on both side

build it one piece at a time working your way up to FEL valve

no, dont build it up one piece at a time, too much work

get you a big line, put it up to your path, mark it with sharpie,

take that big piece and bend it using clamps etc

use that bit of strength you got to bend it and make one piece connecting both end

bend you that hydraulic line the shape needed, get it connected on both end,

build you that exit line, same route, move show forward

it was easier to bend than expected, you were worried about a bunch of nothing

You're not sure which is input/output on the FEL valve, but your hillbilly mind say it doesnt matter

bend you that hydraulic line in the shape you need

put the hydraulic line in place, fasten everything, put you some clamps all over, bend hydraulic line

install you that feed line successfully

now: fabricate you that return line, same duties,

while you do that, come up with the plan to clear those hydraulic lines and not let them get back to transmission

figure you out how you going to:

turn engine on, get hydraulic flowing, disconnect the part where it goes back in transmission, open each line each time you get pressure and push out all the contaminant, something like that, let it marinate while you go fabricate another hydraulic line

connect you both lines successfully

connect it at the bottom, mark it with sharpie, bend it, keep doing that until both side fasten

moved the intake/outake port since didnt have 90's of that size, make sure brake pedal doesnt hit your lines

big chance those bottom connections will leak:

someone said "some lines not made to be flared" is correct, I am not confident the flare will be leak proof

next: system ready to be pressurized, get you some pressure in the system, then go to each hose, crack it open, move lever on FEL valve and push fluid out that port, do that for all the port until you push out all the extraction/contaminant

first: disconnect your back connection, turn on tractor, expel out that line, reconnect that line, then do the separate lines up front

 

[Lil Foot]

Joe, google Swagelok fittings.

 

[Sidekick]

Not all tubing can be flared. May not just be your tool.