First time buyer, need buying advice, requirements included

[Clover13]

Hey guys, just joined the forum. I've been pining over a purchase for awhile, trying to figure out what best fits my needs. I've also never owned a tractor before.

I live on 5 acres I bought a couple years ago, only about 1 acre is lawn, soft and sandy soil. I moved from a highly populated neighbor with city services to the great outdoors (in the middle of the woods) I have probably 600+ feet of gravel driveway going to the house and to a detached garage away from the house. The woods I have are pretty tight with trees, no established trails, lots of dead/fallen wood I'd like to eventually cleanup/chip, probably not really enough room to do any kind of brush hogging without taking a good number of trees out.

Main tasks:
1) Grading the driveway
2) Snow plowing/blowing (storms vary here, last couple winters we've been hit by a few larger snow storms where my neighbor bailed me out with a plow)

Other tasks:
1) Lawn mowing
2) Mulching
3) Woods cleanup, firewood, chipping, etc

I've gotten estimates to do main tasks from contractors, but it's quite steep to the point where it probably makes more sense to buy my own tractor even if I don't use it quite as much as I feel like I should be. The two grading estimates I got to level things out (plenty of existing stone, just some ruts from stuff getting shifted around over the last couple years) and adding about 12 ton of stone to new areas was like $3600-5500. Even renting a tractor is probably around $1000+ a day here when all is said and done (tractor, implements, delivery, gas, cleaning). That's really the crux of it all...weighing out the infrequent but arduous tasks with the steep outsourcing prices. Snow plowing on the other hand is something where I may need it at any time in the winter. I've already learned shoveling is not an option, a snowblower may be but it's probably an all day affair.

With that said, I feel like I have a mix of very light duty tasks (lawn and landscape work) where a larger tractor is just overkill and would likely damage the lawn) and larger tasks (grading/plowing) where a smaller tractor might just not fit the bill. My initial thought process was to go with something 4x4, HST, FEL with quick attach (in case I want to add a front mounted plow or blower) in the 30-35HP range for the larger tasks and then get a small riding mower to do the lawn/landscape work. Even for mulching, there's no way for me to get a larger tractor in through the woods to where I need to mulch, and as mentioned earlier I think even with lawn tires the weight of it on the soft soil would just leave ruts all through the lawn.

Not sure if I'm on the right track, so thought I'd run it by the more knowledgeable folks here and see what you thought. My next move is to visit a local dealer and get their insight, but I'd like to go in having a general idea of what makes sense to avoid getting taken for a ride or winding up either underpowered (more likely) or grossly overpowered (less likely). I'm leaning towards a dealer over buying used mainly because I have no experience with tractors and have no idea what to even look for used wise to avoid buying a headache.

Thank you for any insight and recommendations!

 

[mickeyd]

Welcome to the OTT forum Clover. You came to the right place as we love to spend other people's money.

I went the route of a bigger tractor to do the big jobs and a riding lawn tractor for mowing and taking care of the lawn.

 

[Clover13]

Welcome to the OTT forum Clover. You came to the right place as we love to spend other people's money.

I went the route of a bigger tractor to do the big jobs and a riding lawn tractor for mowing and taking care of the lawn.

Haha! Thanks for the welcome!

EDIT: Removed other part because I didn't initially see you had the L3200

 

[D2Cat]

Welcome!

If someone told me it would cost 5K to spread 12 ton of rock, I would immediately spend the 5K on a used tractor with a loader and a box blade. Even if I knew nothing about tractors. Do it myself, and never care if the tractor did another job! Of course it would, but that's just ridiculous cost in my opinion.

Since you want new, buy a 25HP tractor with implements you want. That's plenty of machine for the work you describe.

 

[Tractor Dell]

Just wondering if you looked at the B2650? That seems to be a middle of the road tractor that could probably do most of what you are looking at. I have a smaller BX, but almost every post I read, or Youtube video I watch about the B2650, people like them. They also have B3350, but then you have to pay for the DPF emissions things that come on them and the price goes up a bit.

Again, I have never used them as they would be too large for my needs, but it may fit yours.

 

[SDT]

A one acre lawn is not an inconsequential task. If the lawn is encumbered with trees and other obstacles, you may want to consider a dedicated ZT mower for the lawn. There is nothing faster for mowing, especially parcels that have obstacles, than a ZT.

Regarding your other tasks, your instincts serve you well. Unless you want a MMM, a 30-35 HP FWA tractor, HST or otherwise (post back if you choose otherwise) with appropriate implements should satisfy your needs.

Keep in mind that snow blowers suck HP like a Hoover sucks dirt. If you anticipate buying a snow blower, buy a tractor at least two sizes larger than you think you might need.

SDT

 

[Clover13]

Welcome!

If someone told me it would cost 5K to spread 12 ton of rock, I would immediately spend the 5K on a used tractor with a loader and a box blade. Even if I knew nothing about tractors. Do it myself, and never care if the tractor did another job! Of course it would, but that's just ridiculous cost in my opinion.

Since you want new, buy a 25HP tractor with implements you want. That's plenty of machine for the work you describe.

That's exactly how I felt/feel. The full job is regrading the existing 600 ft drive (smoothing it out, redistributing the stone that's there) and then also adding that 12 ton to two other spots (spread out between them). The higher quote also included clearing about a 10'x10' section of 1-2" diameter pine trees that are each maybe 6 feet high...so that was the extra cost between the two estimates (~$1500). Either way, it just seemed like an awful lot of money to do that one time. And like you said, looking at $5K, I'm halfway to a brand new BX and 1/3 of the way to a reasonably sized B series.

I figure I'll just chainsaw those pines and can probably rip the roots out with my hands if I had to. Or rent an implement whenever I get my tractor.

Agree 100% with buying, and I'm totally OK with a used tractor IF I can get a mechanic or someone to take a look at it that knows tractors. I may ask my neighbor, he's a great guy, has let me borrow his tractor a couple times but I don't want to keep doing that without being able to return the favor (he's very handy, I always offer a hand but he never really needs it haha).

 

[Clover13]

Just wondering if you looked at the B2650? That seems to be a middle of the road tractor that could probably do most of what you are looking at. I have a smaller BX, but almost every post I read, or Youtube video I watch about the B2650, people like them. They also have B3350, but then you have to pay for the DPF emissions things that come on them and the price goes up a bit.

Again, I have never used them as they would be too large for my needs, but it may fit yours.

I've seen the B2650 mentioned a number of times. I guess the first part of this is how much HP is enough and then some. From what I've researched, most say to favor adding more HP to not stress the tractor as much. i.e. don't buy a tractor where it's max HP with be how much HP you need to do the work as it'll put too much stress on parts and cause premature failures. I like the idea of beefing up for longevity without going crazy and unnecessary overkill (and money). Right now I'm not sure how much HP is ideal. I figure the plowing and the grading with a box blade are the most intensive. If I wound up getting a thrower for snow, then there's not much HP required there. So the box blading is probably the best HP stress test point. Is 25HP enough? I ask that because my neighbor has around a 20HP and has told me several times he wishes he got more.

 

[Clover13]

A one acre lawn is not an inconsequential task. If the lawn is encumbered with trees and other obstacles, you may want to consider a dedicated ZT mower for the lawn. There is nothing faster for mowing, especially parcels that have obstacles than a ZT.

Regarding your other tasks, your instincts serve you well. Unless you want a MMM, a 30-35 HP FWA tractor, HST or otherwise (post back if you choose otherwise) with appropriate implements should satisfy your needs.

Keep in mind that snow blowers such HP like a Hoover sucks dirt. If you anticipate buying a snow blower, buy a tractor at least two sizes larger than you think you might need.

SDT

Wow, OK, I would have never thought that with a snowblower. I would think there wouldn't be much to it spinning the blade turbine. I'll add that to what I've learned today. So plowing with a blade is less HP intensive than snowblowing with a front mount blower?

This is all the missing pieces for me, trying to determine how much HP is enough for my main tasks.

Agree with the zero turn mower, or even a riding mower for the lawn. Plus I can hitch a little pull behind cart to it for hauling around mulch without damaging the lawn.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Go to a dealer and sit in and drive around in a BX and a B and get a feel for them.

 

[RCW]

From what you’re saying, look at a B. Not the B3350...bad history with that model.
B will have mid-PTO for MMM and front snowblower. Not an option for an L.
With a B with FEL and box blade, I could re-do your driveway and move 60 ton of stone in a short day, then mow the lawn in 45 minutes.
I have a BX and occasionally wish it was just a little bigger.....

70 years ago, a common row crop farm tractor was 30 HP or so. But, it might weigh 4,000 pounds or more.
Modern Kubota is light in comparison, so you often run out of traction first. You do need to keep HP in mind when sizing PTO implements.

If you don’t get dumped on with snow, a QA blade might be the answer for plowing. I’ve used a snowblower on stone for 27 years. Sometimes it can be dicey, especially if it routinely thaws.

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[Missouribound]

I think you will be happy with either the BX or B.
If you get a FEL, get a Piranha bar. I recently bought one and was able to take out trees 3-4" in diameter with little effort. Get a riding mower / Tractor for the 1 acres you plan to mow and with the money you save purchase implements for your tractor instead. Your tractor will become a helping hand in more ways than you can imagine. The BX has a lower center of gravity. Is that an issue for you?
The B has greater ground clearance. If you want to play in the woods a bit you will appreciate that. The driveway will be an ongoing project. Get a box blade or perhaps just a rear blade. The rear blade may take care of your snow issue if you are diligent and can keep up with it.....that's up to you, not the machine.
I moved where snow is of little concern so I just wait a week and it's gone.
Just one day with the FEL and a blade and you will master the gravel issue.
Of course you will be fixing it regularly....but that's the fun part.

 

[RCW]

If you get a FEL, get a Piranha bar.

Missouri hit the nail on the head there.

His point about ground clearance is important also.

You can see a Piranha Tooth Bar on my BX in the picture with the loader on.. Well worth it!

For what it's worth, the picture with my snowblower was the 34" we got in ~12-14 hours on 3/14/2017. I did every driveway in the neighborhood...

The driveway pictures - I graded my drive and surfaced with 20 ton of stone by 11 am or so....the "finished" picture was a fine grading a month later.

 

[Charlie5320]

I don't see any reason why a BX2680 wouldn't work for you. I have a BX2670 and I spread 10 ton of rock this spring in less than 2 hours, and I did it all with the bucket. I was on the fence between the B2620 and the BX2670 when I was shopping. After getting the BX2670, I'm glad I went that way. I bought a used 2015 tractor with 300 hours in good shape $7000.00 less than a new one. The factory warrentee just expired this month. Lots of low hour good used tractors out there for sale. Many will have extra implements for them too. I'm an old man so I looked used, but if I were a young man I'd buy new, it'll last you a lifetime if taken care of. I would NOT even consider a rear mount snow blower, I know some do, but I'm not one of them. I picked up a used blower and front blade for my tractor in late winter for pennies on the dollar. The blade was never used, the guy told me he was too lazy to take the loader off and install the blade. Maybe I'll use it this winter, maybe not, didn't plow any snow here last winter.

I also have a Piranha Tooth Bar on my BX, and have taken out several 2 to 2 1/2 inch trees. I did it in the spring when the ground was soft and they came out pretty easy. Well worth the money on either tractor you choose.

 

[PaulL]

I think you'd get a new BX for about the price of a used large B. I don't think you need to go larger for what you describe, and I'd agree that a larger machine would chew up the lawn a bit.

I have an older BX (about to be upgraded to a new BX). It mows plenty well enough for me - I mow probably 3/4 acre, I always mulch - no messing around with baggers and better for lawn. Takes me about 40 minutes, and that includes using hand mower in the areas the tractor can't quite do (spaces too narrow). Your property sounds more open, if you're careful as you landscape no reason you couldn't mow the whole thing without getting off your tractor. A big sized B would mow a bit faster, and has a wider MMM, it'd be plenty unless you're making a golf green.

Many people will say get a zero turn and then a good sized tractor. That's an opinion, and a legitimate one. My view is that I'd like to have one machine that does most of what I want, and then spend some money to get a good one. Given you're worried you won't use it enough, a little smaller machine will mean more use as everything will take a little longer. And of course I really love driving my tractor, so more seat time doesn't upset me.

As for snow, where I live it doesn't snow. But from what I read on here my understanding is that it all comes down to how deep. If not too deep, and occasional, then a blade (front or back) will do the job. A snowblower is an entirely different matter, and is great if your snow piles up and you need to throw over the bank that's formed, and a front mount seems to be the go. But they're slow and fiddly, and if you don't have that much snow you don't need one. Again, your driveway sounds long and open, so based on assumed information I'm guessing a blade will do it well enough, and way cheaper than a blower. Also means you're not as focused on PTO HP.

If it were me, B2601 or B2650. Mid mount mower (as big as you can get - 72 inch I think on B2650), box blade for the driveway (much easier to work with than a blade) or even one of those combined land plane box blade things, front end loader with quick attach, front blade for snow, front forks because you need them but just don't know it yet. At a later date a good size chipper for the 3ph, maybe a log splitter if you're cutting your own firewood. One machine to do it all.

If you really have a lot of trees/stumps you'll be taking out, and making things tidy is your thing, then maybe a back hoe. Much better than a shovel (I'm strongly in favour of any tools that mean not getting off my tractor). If there's only a few trees to take out, rent a mid-size excavator for a day and do them all in one go. Chainsaw and split the firewood once you're done and given the excavator back.

I'm on a mission to make my forks go both on the 3ph and the quick attach (once I get the new tractor). Best of both worlds - I like using old pallets for carrying tools, equipment etc. Means you can just leave your stuff on the pallet, go grab it next time. I've also seen people stacking firewood onto pallets with sides - easy to move it near the house, then swap it out for the next one, no more stacking firewood about 10 times in different places. But when I lift things into racking, I want forks on the FEL, so ideally I'd be able to do both.

Also sounds to me like you need a small Stihl chainsaw, and a Stihl multi-system to give you a chainsaw on a pole, an edger, a whipper snipper.

Have I spent enough of your money yet?

 

[Clover13]

Great feedback, thank you everyone! Looks like a trip to the dealer is the next step to feel out the BX and B series. I did look at a video on the 2017 BX2680 and my first sense is that it was smaller than expected. Good for use on the lawn that way and easier to navigate around the woods. My only real concern would be whether it could handle the higher HP tasks, but it looks like a few of you are using the BX series to do some grading and snow removal...maybe just have to go slower and it will take a little more time. I think if I would intend on using it on the lawn, I'd def need lawn tires and then need to chain it up for snow removal. I'm open to either the BX or the B, just want to make sure I'm not under-tractored...nothing worse than having a task but the tool can't do what you need to. Will see what direction the dealer steers me when I get in there! Thanks again all, and any additional feedback please feel free to chime in!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXq1QXE7uJQ

 

[TripleR]

Many of us have been down the road you are traveling or one very similar. The BX and B Series have their drawbacks which keep then from being a good all around machine, so you'll have to decide which is most important.

After several months of research, I bought a BX because when needed I could go to another farm and get a bigger tractor. If I didn't have this option, I would have bought a B Series.

For your situation if buying new a B2601 or B2650 will suffice, buting used opens up a much bigger selection.

Note: I HATE the quarter inching 3PH on the BX, B Series has this as does our JD 1025R.

 

[SDT]

Wow, OK, I would have never thought that with a snowblower. I would think there wouldn't be much to it spinning the blade turbine. I'll add that to what I've learned today. So plowing with a blade is less HP intensive than snowblowing with a front mount blower?

This is all the missing pieces for me, trying to determine how much HP is enough for my main tasks.

Agree with the zero turn mower, or even a riding mower for the lawn. Plus I can hitch a little pull behind cart to it for hauling around mulch without damaging the lawn.

Yes. Of the tasks that you mentioned, the snow blower will require the most HP.

That said, a low HP tractor with a hydrostatic transmission can blow snow. You just need to move slowly.

The tradeoff, as always, is your time vis-à-vis your money.

SDT

 

[RCW]

Clover - - one thing you need to differentiate is the difference between a tractor’s horsepower and the work it can do.
In many cases, the ability of a tractor to pull or push something is limited by traction, not horsepower. Traction is a factor of weight.
My 1953 ‘Moline weighs about 6,500 pounds and is 30 horsepower. I pulled out a stuck, empty cement truck with it 40 years ago.
I know other “farm boys” here understand what I’m saying..for your applications, don’t get hooked on HP, except when sizing PTO implements. My ‘Moline wouldn’t drive a PTO implement a whole lot bigger than my 23 HP Kubota BX, even though I could lift my BX with the front blade of the ‘Moline. I think the rear wheel weights on it are 520 pounds each side.

Focus on weight. JMHO, and best wishes in your endeavor!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Daren Todd]

Note: I HATE the quarter inching 3PH on the BX, B Series has this as does our JD 1025R.

I've operated many tractors over the years from farmall, McCormick, Ford, Deere, Massey Furgeson, to Kubotas, and a couple over other smaller brands like the Branson. Couldn't tell you about the Farmall since I just drove that around as a kid. But the others I've operated implements on.

I've never once used the 1/4 inching set up, and could see myself getting extremely frustrated really quickly. Especially since I have 30 years of muscle memory operating a 3ph a certain way.