Draw bar uses if you have a 3-point or quick hitch mounted receiver?

[mcmxi]

Instead of a hard-stop at each end of the chain, put a chain notch in your hitch that you can adjust the upper limit of the hitch. For your smaller trailers you don't need to lift it quite so high.

Yes, another excellent idea although I'd prefer to move that feature to the draw bar for no other reason than I put a lot of work into the bracket on the receiver that accepts a 3/4" pin and it works great as is.

Fortunately, the last link on the old chain that I found will easily accept a 3/4" pin or bolt so that end is done already. Now I need to figure out a way to incorporate a bracket that attaches to the draw bar with a pin that includes a plate with a notch in the best location to allow for different lengths of the chain.

Here are some photos that give a better idea of what I'm working with along with the growing scrap pile.

 

[Magicman]

OK that might work, but it ain't nearly as sexy.

 

[bmblank]

My only thought to have it on top was having the hook facing up instead of down. When the chain is slack you want gravity to hold the chain in the hook. And this way, you don't have to bend down as far and the extra chain can be thrown over the bar instead of dragging thru the dirt.

 

[airbiscuit]

The other reason to use a drawbar vs. a 3pt itch is that it is a more robust connection to the tractor frame for heavy pulls (like pulling out a stump). There is a lesser chance of cracking an axle or transmission housing.

 

[GeoHorn]

Keep it up and before-long, you’ll never need a ballast-box..

 

[mcmxi]

@bmblank, I have a bit of an update on this project based largely on your suggestion. I bought a Hougen magnetic drill a few months ago and used it this morning to open up the hole in the eye on the bracket that slides over the draw bar so that a 3/4" shackle pin would fit.

I used this set up this morning to move the flatbed trailer and it worked well. I'll probably cut the chain back a bit then weld it to a piece of plate with a hole that the pin on the receiver will slide through. That way the hook will pass through the shackle and then snag an appropriate link. Also, I might re-purpose the cut receiver below by cutting off unwanted material and welding it to the receiver on the quick hitch so that I can store either the 2" or 2-5/16" ball that's not being used.

Opening up the hole to 3/4"

Receiver lowered to get under the coupler and the chain relaxes

Lifting up the receiver and the chain limits the upward movement of the 3-point

Part of original receiver from BX25D

 

[bmblank]

Nice.
Obviously, you need to be gentle lifting your 3pt since you're hitting a hard stop, but I have a feeling that's not really going to be a problem.

 

[PaulL]

Very nice work.

 

[bcp]

That odd shaped loop on the end of your chain (in post #41) is used to adjust the length.

chain grab link at DuckDuckGo

DuckDuckGo. Privacy, Simplified.

duckduckgo.com

Rotate it 180 degrees from the position in the photo, then it will grab a chain that goes through the loop

Bruce.

 

[mcmxi]

That odd shaped loop on the end of your chain (in post #41) is used to adjust the length.

Rotate it 180 degrees from the position in the photo, then it will grab a chain that goes through the loop

Bruce.

Thanks, but I've decided to make an "eye" in a piece of plate for the chain to pass through and weld it to the receiver to eliminate the pin I'm currently using. I'll have to weld the other end of the chain to the bracket that slides over the draw bar. This has been a poorly planned project from the get go but eventually I'll get it right.

 

[airbiscuit]

I guess I'm trying to figure out why you run a chain back to the drawbar? Why not make something like this? No chain needed.

 

[mcmxi]

I guess I'm trying to figure out why you run a chain back to the drawbar? Why not make something like this? No chain needed.

I made one of those if you look at my earlier posts, but the point of the chain is to prevent the 3-point from lifting up when cresting a hill or if there's a sudden shift of weight in the trailer causing the tongue to rotate upwards. The theory is that the coupler and ball could separate unintentionally resulting in a run away trailer. It's less likely to happen if the trailer is connected to the rigid draw bar. The chain allows the 3-point to lower to get under the coupler of a trailer without needing to use the trailer jack, but would prevent or limit upward movement of the 3-point which has no down force.

 

[airbiscuit]

Ah, now I remember. It was several posts back. That said, I really like the design of the Omni hitch with receiver mounts top and bottom.

 

[mcmxi]

Ah, now I remember. It was several posts back. That said, I really like the design of the Omni hitch with receiver mounts top and bottom.

Yes, that's a neat design.

 

[Slick75]

I put a 2-5/15" ball on mine and drag my trailer around when doing fencing work around the house. I also haul my tractor all over 10 counties and the ball makes chaining down very convenient. If the ball isn't on the draw bar I use a 7/8 shackle in the draw bar to chain it.

So far the only thing I've used that the draw bar gets in the way of is a PTO stump grinder. If using it I simply remove the draw bar.

If you're not moving trailers or hauling the tractor around you can take it off. Just put it where you can find it, I guarantee just as soon as it gets lost you're going to need it.

 

[nbryan]

Just a quick sanity check re the the draw bar. My MX came with a heavy duty draw bar but I can't see any reason to use it if I have a heavy duty receiver on the quick hitch. Basically I want to "donate" the draw bar to a new receiver that I'm going to make for the MX. I don't want to chop it up only to find that I needed it for something.

Thanks.

Pretty much ANY pull-behind ground-engaging attachments like cultivators, plows, discers - I wouldn't recommend pulling them with hydraulics-supported attachment to the tractor like on a 3-point hitch.
Pull-behind meaning attaches at the tractor usually with a pin and have their own wheels or weight support.
The reason I say that is two-fold - heavy draw force loads can be much higher than hydraulic design limits on 3-point hitches and can over stress them.
And rearward horizontal pulling loads when under sufficiently high under power MUST attach below the rear axle's center height from ground. If the plow hits a hidden boulder square on and it's attached above the axle, like on the 3-point somewhere, it can flip the front of the tractor straight up and potentially on top of you, real fast.
And/Or the 3-point get's slammed by an overload and damage ensues.

Keep it. Pulling/moving heavy and/or ground engaging implements is what it's for.

 

[mcmxi]

Pretty much ANY pull-behind ground-engaging attachments like cultivators, plows, discers - I wouldn't recommend pulling them with hydraulics-supported attachment to the tractor like on a 3-point hitch.
Pull-behind meaning attaches at the tractor usually with a pin and have their own wheels or weight support.
The reason I say that is two-fold - heavy draw force loads can be much higher than hydraulic design limits on 3-point hitches and can over stress them.
And rearward horizontal pulling loads when under sufficiently high under power MUST attach below the rear axle's center height from ground. If the plow hits a hidden boulder square on and it's attached above the axle, like on the 3-point somewhere, it can flip the front of the tractor straight up and potentially on top of you, real fast.
And/Or the 3-point get's slammed by an overload and damage ensues.

Keep it. Pulling/moving heavy and/or ground engaging implements is what it's for.

Great advice, thanks. I don't have any wheeled ground engaging implements, only a box blade, rear blade and soon a land leveler. I'm keeping the draw bar and in fact using it in conjunction with the 3-point as shown previously. Moving trailers with a ball on the 3-point is so much easier than with a ball on the draw bar.

 

[mcmxi]

I've lost count of what revision I'm on but I made a nice chain link key slot today for want of a better description using some scrap 1/2" plate. I then welded it into position only to realize that I'd welded it in the wrong spot. Time to fire up the plasma cutter again!