yeah, evidently "safety" kills all the fun and all the power.... just like on a job site! buahahahahaNow it really sounds like a fuse
They also have so many safety gizmos to cut power. Too many attorneys involved in the design.
Desperately need help! 🙏🏼
- Thread starter Little Mia
- Start date
I'm honestly not very familiar with that model. But, there should be a main fuse (pretty high amp rating) there somewhere. That and/ or the relay that picks when the key is in the "run" position.
There are folks here that should be able to point you in the right direction.
No lights on the dash whatsoever means there's an electrical issue and it's not a safety switch issue. Since you lost all electrical power when you moved the battery, the first thing I'd check is that both the positive and negative battery terminals are on the battery tight.
What are your troubleshooting skills with using a multimeter?
What are your troubleshooting skills with using a multimeter?
Lil Foot
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1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator
I would volunteer to lend a hand, (I live in Peoria, AZ) but I'm out of town till at least the 1st. Sorry about that.
Glad you found the parking brake was out of place! No lights could be a fuse but unlikely if the tractor was just running fine. Is the battery secured down? Check if any of the positive wires could have touched the tractor body. If so then it might have blown a fuse. With the condition of the tractor, you might just have a bad connection to the battery. Take the positive And negative leads off the battery, sand the connectors a bit where they meet the battery terminals until you see some bare metal. I know you said the battery is new but take a flat head screwdriver and scrape up the battery terminals too. Then reconnect both battery leads nice and snug. I know it sounds crazy but I really bet that'll do it.
airbiscuit
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New Holland T2310, New Holland TC21D, Kubota l3010 GST, Farmall H
"I had to take the battery out of it's "home" for a quick second to read something on the label on the other side of it. While placing the battery back into that snug little opening it calls home, the tractor suddenly shut off.
I assumed I must have knocked a connection loose or something but upon inspection I don't see anything that looks out of place or loose or frayed or broken or even corroded. So I have not a clue what could have gotten knocked loose. "
To me, that constitutes jiggling. Lots of good ideas here, but I think your cable ends at the battery re the main suspects (they look kind of sketchy in the picture).
I would try jumping it with your car. If dash lights don't come on, start looking at fuses/broken wires.
I assumed I must have knocked a connection loose or something but upon inspection I don't see anything that looks out of place or loose or frayed or broken or even corroded. So I have not a clue what could have gotten knocked loose. "
To me, that constitutes jiggling. Lots of good ideas here, but I think your cable ends at the battery re the main suspects (they look kind of sketchy in the picture).
I would try jumping it with your car. If dash lights don't come on, start looking at fuses/broken wires.
GreensvilleJay
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BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Before going any further, please go to www.kubotbooks.com and download the WSM for your tractor !!
I just checked, it's there,got a copy of it, chapter 6 electrical HAS the wiring diagram.
It's easy to follow and shows which fuse powers various lights and 'things'.
In dealing with anything 'electrical', it's critical to have the wiring diagram.
I just checked, it's there,got a copy of it, chapter 6 electrical HAS the wiring diagram.
It's easy to follow and shows which fuse powers various lights and 'things'.
In dealing with anything 'electrical', it's critical to have the wiring diagram.
whitetiger
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Kubota tech..BX2370, RCK60, B7100HST, RTV900 w plow, Ford 1100 FWA
Pushing the Park Brake down will not make any difference as it does not have a safety switch connected to it.
North Idaho Wolfman
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You very likely have popped the main fuse.
It's called a maxi fuse, and it's down by the starter.
You can pull the fuse 50AMP and go to an auto parts store and get a replacement.
It's called a maxi fuse, and it's down by the starter.
You can pull the fuse 50AMP and go to an auto parts store and get a replacement.
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Dashlights and wouldn't crank....
Parking brake wiggled and it fired up. Ran for a while.
Shut off and now it won't start and none of the dashlights work.
Sounds like a dead battery or bad connections at the battery. Looking back at the pic of the battery with the charger cables attached, I can't even see the battery terminals.
The close up pics I was hoping to see were that of the battery itself and surrounding components. I.e....just take a pic of the battery up close.
Parking brake wiggled and it fired up. Ran for a while.
Shut off and now it won't start and none of the dashlights work.
Sounds like a dead battery or bad connections at the battery. Looking back at the pic of the battery with the charger cables attached, I can't even see the battery terminals.
The close up pics I was hoping to see were that of the battery itself and surrounding components. I.e....just take a pic of the battery up close.
If it were me, from where you are.
1. I'd say it was probably a safety switch that stopped it running last time - PTO, HST, seat are the likely culprits. The reason for thinking this is that you had dash lights but no crank - that's exactly what a safety switch does.
2. I'd say that you now have a different problem. You have no dash lights at all, which is different than what you had before.
3. For no dash lights, there are a few places I'd look.
a. Does the battery have charge? I know, it was just working and it's new, but maybe it shorted out or you left something on or whatever. If you have a multimeter, check you've got a bit more than 12v. Without a multimeter, then you need a light or something else that runs off 12v that you can connect to the battery posts and just see if it has any power at all. Dash lights don't take a lot of power, if the battery has power and the dash lights aren't going, then we're looking for a fuse or a loose connection
b. Check the fuses. The big one @North Idaho Wolfman pointed to. And then all the fuses in the fuse box (easy enough to pull them and look at them, put them back). Use pliers to pull them, do them one at a time so you don't mix them up. If you have a multimeter I'd also check resistance across them (the ohms measure). Sometimes they're blown and it's not easy to see. You're looking for something close to zero, if it's infinite resistance then it's blown.
c. Check every connection. Easiest to do by just following the wires and put your multi-meter at each spot, check if you've got voltage. When you find a spot that doesn't have voltage, you have a loose connection between where you last checked and there. This is an easy thing to do when you pull the fuses - you can look for voltage in the fuse holder while it's out. You should be able to use the tractor chassis as you're negative when looking for voltage, but it has to be unpainted metal somewhere (painted metal won't conduct). I usually end up using a bolt head. (And check that you have zero resistance between the tractor chassis and the negative terminal on the battery - if the negative terminal is not connected well then nothing will be earthed to the chassis at all)
1. I'd say it was probably a safety switch that stopped it running last time - PTO, HST, seat are the likely culprits. The reason for thinking this is that you had dash lights but no crank - that's exactly what a safety switch does.
2. I'd say that you now have a different problem. You have no dash lights at all, which is different than what you had before.
3. For no dash lights, there are a few places I'd look.
a. Does the battery have charge? I know, it was just working and it's new, but maybe it shorted out or you left something on or whatever. If you have a multimeter, check you've got a bit more than 12v. Without a multimeter, then you need a light or something else that runs off 12v that you can connect to the battery posts and just see if it has any power at all. Dash lights don't take a lot of power, if the battery has power and the dash lights aren't going, then we're looking for a fuse or a loose connection
b. Check the fuses. The big one @North Idaho Wolfman pointed to. And then all the fuses in the fuse box (easy enough to pull them and look at them, put them back). Use pliers to pull them, do them one at a time so you don't mix them up. If you have a multimeter I'd also check resistance across them (the ohms measure). Sometimes they're blown and it's not easy to see. You're looking for something close to zero, if it's infinite resistance then it's blown.
c. Check every connection. Easiest to do by just following the wires and put your multi-meter at each spot, check if you've got voltage. When you find a spot that doesn't have voltage, you have a loose connection between where you last checked and there. This is an easy thing to do when you pull the fuses - you can look for voltage in the fuse holder while it's out. You should be able to use the tractor chassis as you're negative when looking for voltage, but it has to be unpainted metal somewhere (painted metal won't conduct). I usually end up using a bolt head. (And check that you have zero resistance between the tractor chassis and the negative terminal on the battery - if the negative terminal is not connected well then nothing will be earthed to the chassis at all)
Batteries have internal connections between the cells that can break. Forcing the battery to a new location without disconnecting the cables can move the battery terminals and cause such breakage. I would try jumper cables to see if things come back to life.
BAP
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2012 Kubota 2920, 60MMM, FEL, BH65 48" Bush Hog, 60"Backblade, B2782B Snowblower
If you jiggled the parking brake and it started, I would try wiggling the forward and reverse pedal while trying to start it. You may have done that without knowing while moving the parking brake being how the linkage is fairly close to each other. The parking brake doesn’t have a safety switch in it but the forward reverse pedal does.
airbiscuit
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New Holland T2310, New Holland TC21D, Kubota l3010 GST, Farmall H
Inquiring minds want to know.....
- What were you looking for that caused you to pull the battery back?
- Did you see any sparks?
- If it's a new battery, why is there a charger on it?
- After you moved it, the dash lights came on and it started at least once right?
- Now no dash lights?
airbiscuit
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New Holland T2310, New Holland TC21D, Kubota l3010 GST, Farmall H
I once had a car that needed a new cable end at the battery. I put a new one on, and it worked great for a long time. Then no-go but would start with a jump. Took it in to the shop. They cleaned the cable end and added DI-electric grease. You couldn't see the corrosion, but it was there.
Can you post a clear picture of the battery and cables (no charger)? I still think the cable ends look like primary suspects (and most likely to be compromised with the move).
Can you post a clear picture of the battery and cables (no charger)? I still think the cable ends look like primary suspects (and most likely to be compromised with the move).
airbiscuit
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New Holland T2310, New Holland TC21D, Kubota l3010 GST, Farmall H
I'll try to be more clear about the logic between the jumper cable test.
I like Wolfman's suggestion about the primary fuse, but if that was blown, it shouldn't have started after the battery move.
If you jump it with your car, you are putting known power the cable ends (or better yet the exposed cable)
At least you can narrow down the likely causes of the problem.
I like Wolfman's suggestion about the primary fuse, but if that was blown, it shouldn't have started after the battery move.
If you jump it with your car, you are putting known power the cable ends (or better yet the exposed cable)
- If the tractor starts, then either the battery is bad, or cable ends are.
- If the dash lights come on, but no start, then maybe a safety switch problem.
- If no dash lights, then a blown fuse, or broken wire.
At least you can narrow down the likely causes of the problem.
My logic is that the problem is different now. Before, the dash lights were going, but it wouldn't crank. That sounds like a safety switch.
Now, the dash lights aren't going. That sounds like a fuse or a connection.
Putting jumper cables on it is one way to verify if the battery is the issue. But so is a multi-meter. It depends which is easier for @Little Mia to do.
GreensvilleJay
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BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Replace BOTH battery cables ASAP .
The positive one has open copper strands so the 'core' is probably already corroded.
ANY bare copper will turn green ( the pretty name is 'patina') once a drop or two of water touches it, ends up becoming a resistor and doesn't enough current to flow, causing all sorts of weird stuff, randomly works, then not.
You'll waste DAYS of your life trying to fix it until you replace the cables.
The positive one has open copper strands so the 'core' is probably already corroded.
ANY bare copper will turn green ( the pretty name is 'patina') once a drop or two of water touches it, ends up becoming a resistor and doesn't enough current to flow, causing all sorts of weird stuff, randomly works, then not.
You'll waste DAYS of your life trying to fix it until you replace the cables.