Coolant flush

Bark

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Equipment
L4701/FM2560LA765/BB2560Pittsburgh disk Titan P forks
Feb 18, 2020
202
54
28
North CA
Distilled water is cheap. 80 cents a gallon at walmart. Its not a tractor but every 100,000 miles I "waste" 8 bucks flushing and changing the fluid in my Ram turbo diesel. The old fluid looks almost new when I drain it. I also change the water pump because its easy.
 

kubotafreak

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Equipment
GRAND l6060, L3560, B6100, gr2100, tg 1860, g1800, g1900, g2160
Sep 20, 2018
1,049
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Arkansas, US
Is the Kubota plain old green ethylene glycol or is it a HOAT like most Asian companies use? I used regular green (Mopar actually) from when my buddy and I had an automotive repair business. Still had one jug of Mopar left LOL as we worked primarily on Chrysler mini vans. I still have jugs of Mopar trans fluid I don't know what to do with LOL
It is a quality Ethylene glycol(green). Contains phosphate, and does not contain any silicate, borate, nitrites. Sounds closer to an IAT.
 

Steve Neul

Member

Equipment
B5200
Jun 3, 2017
130
14
18
Terrell, TX
I’m a new tractor owner. I have a B2650. Love the tractor. Has saved me lots of backaches. It’s time for me to flush and replace the coolant. I see in the owner’s manual of a pet cock on the engine block. I’m afraid if I open it it won’t close and leak or it will break off. Could some one help me with this. Thanks
Look at it this way, it's not likely to break off or leak but if it does the part needs to be replaced anyway. It would only get in worse condition.

Unless you think the cooling system is plugged somewhere I wouldn't flush it. Sometimes you can cause a coolant leak by using an engine flush. Often dirt or rust will plug tiny leaks and if you break that loose you then have a leak.
 

DustyRusty

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2020 BX23S, BX2822 Snowblower, Curtis Deluxe Cab,
Nov 8, 2015
6,293
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North East CT
I have well water that is acidic and it ate the copper pipes in just a few years. I changed the entire house to plastic plumbing and now am a believer. I may flush a system with the well water, but the final flush and fill will be with distilled.
I have a well, and acidic water, and my copper water pipes are as good today as the day that they were installed 35 years ago. You must have used type M copper tubing, that is as cheap as you can get. I used type L copper, and no problems in 35 years. We also have lots of iron bacteria and calcium in the water, but it is the best cold water that comes out of the tap all summer. Best be careful, because drinking water leads to death. Everyone that has ever drank water died!!
 

Mark_BX25D

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Bx25D
Jul 19, 2020
1,788
1,301
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Virginia
It’s time for me to flush and replace the coolant. I see in the owner’s manual of a pet cock on the engine block. I’m afraid if I open it it won’t close and leak or it will break off.
I never touch those petcocks on any vehicle for that very reason. They DO break, and you wind up replacing a radiator. On the engine block?? No thanks!

Just remove the lower radiator hose. Worst case, it breaks and you have to replace it. Much cheaper and easier than a radiator or an engine block.


As to the flushing, drain as best you can, fill with pure water (distilled is best, or reverse osmosis), toss a teaspoon of Dawn dishwashing liquid or the contents of a Tide pod in there (not the pod itself), and leave it there for a few weeks or a month while yuou use the tractor. Drain, fill with pure water, and use it again for a few weeks. Repeat the rinse cycle as needed until you get clean water when you drain it.

Then drain one last time and put your expensive coolant in it.

On the flusing
 
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whitetiger

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Kubota tech..BX2370, RCK60, B7100HST, RTV900 w plow, Ford 1100 FWA
Nov 20, 2011
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Kansas City, KS
Those flushes use some very nasty chemicals. They have their place but if you do regular maintenance simply flushing with distilled water than using proper coolant mix is the best. BTW even the service manual (at least on my 2160) warns AGAINST using tap water and only distilled water
I guess I can not find that warning.
 

Attachments

GeoHorn

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Lifetime Member

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M4700DT, LA1002FEL, Ferguson5-8B Compactor-Roller, 10KDumpTrailer, RTV-X900
May 18, 2018
6,052
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Texas
Ethylene Glycol, according to my Owner’s Manual.

I would not use any type of soap or detergent. Just plain water. Soap/detergent may foam and that may cause hot-spots and pump cavitation.

I”ve already posted my unfortunate experience with cleaning agents. If your system has been serviced previously with proper materials then when it’s drained it should be fairly clean and not need anything aggressive. Plain water will flush it fine.

For those who believe that only “distilled” water should ever enter the cooling system.... I suggest that chemical cleansers and ad hoc mixtures are a great risk to the purity of your system.
 
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lmichael

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Kubota G2160
Apr 23, 2021
609
265
63
Rockford IL area
Not sure about all the machines but the block drain on my 2160 is made of metal. So breaking it would be a bit harder. Yeah I have heard of all kind of weird things people put in their engines. Some tout Cascade dishwasher detergent, TSP and a few other things. If you keep the system up there is no need for chemicals. But if you're dealing with a very scaled up system frankly I would use what is designed for cooling systems. Scale the proportions according to the size of the system. Usually they have a "dosage" on the back label i.e. "systems up to XX# qts/gallons use XX amount of cleaner" Perhaps that is why some folks have water pump issues. Another thing is perhaps the pump was already failing but, who knows. ON the VERY rare occasions I have had to use something like that never had an issue that I can point to the cleaner used. YMMV
 

BruceP

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Equipment
G5200H
Aug 7, 2016
851
368
63
Richmond, Vermont, USA
Clever idea regarding the leaf blower.
When I worked in industry, we had cooling-systems which MUST contain deionized water flowing through stainless-steel piping. The plant had its own deionizing plant for the silicon-wafer processing.

I learned the blowout trick from when we used compressed-air to drain those types of systems. (for shipping/storage)

The leaf-blower does not have enough pressure to damage any seals in an engine cooling system while still eliminates a lot of residual liquid.
 

lynnmor

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B2601-1
May 3, 2021
1,452
1,172
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Red Lion
I have a well, and acidic water, and my copper water pipes are as good today as the day that they were installed 35 years ago. You must have used type M copper tubing, that is as cheap as you can get. I used type L copper, and no problems in 35 years.
It was 46 years ago and I don't remember what type the tubing was. I did use brass elbows rather than formed copper. Cheap faucets last weeks, toilet tank bolts rot in a few years and anode rods disappear within three years.
 

GeoHorn

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M4700DT, LA1002FEL, Ferguson5-8B Compactor-Roller, 10KDumpTrailer, RTV-X900
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Lynmor... something you might look into: Some ”old timey” electricians will ground electrical components to the water pipes. This is a hold-over from the pre-depression days of two-wire electrical systems in houses that had no dedicated electrical ground (had only the ”hot” and the neutral.).
When newer appliances which had “ground” terminals were installed in these old systems an electrician might have connected that “ground” to a water-pipe because they were commonly buried and were thought to act similar to a ground-rod (such as all modern systems are required by the Nat’l Code at the service entrance. If subsequently another person comes along and switches a white “neutral” with a bare equipment-ground or connects those together in a breaker-box thinking they’re “just the same thing”.... :rolleyes:
That method, when combined with properly wired modern systems can create a conflict and contribute to electrolysis which can cause rapid decay of water systems of mixed components (such as copper tubing mixed with galvanized mixed with brass mixed with bronze mixed with stainless, etc etc.). Sometimes ”phantom” voltages can appear. I once had a house built in the 1950s which had been updated.... but the ceiling fans in the living room showed 45 volts AC even when their circuit breakers were interrupted. It took 5 years to track that down to an old electric water heater circuit tied to a washing-machine drainpipe. When the water heater was converted from electricity to propane... the issue disappeared.... or we’d never have figured out the ceiling fan voltage problem we had been ignoring (for lack of a solution) for 20+ years.
A contributing factor may also have involved an old Federal-Pacific circuit breaker box which was condemned for fraudulent Underwriters Laboratory Approval waay back in the 1960s.

Anyway.... you might consider your plumbing system troubles versus your electrical system for possible conflicts.

Hope this helps.
 

lynnmor

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B2601-1
May 3, 2021
1,452
1,172
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Red Lion
Anyway.... you might consider your plumbing system troubles versus your electrical system for possible conflicts.
Thank you for the reply.

Grounding of plumbing systems is required to pass inspection in my area. Just a few years ago, I installed a new service in my daughters very old house, the inspector saw some copper plumbing in the basement and said it must be connected to the ground system despite having a new ground rod. Luckily I had the materials to make the connection before he completed his work.

New houses were built across the road about 25 years ago and they all had copper plumbing installed. All of that plumbing was replaced a long time ago. Their wells are deeper than mine and it appears that the water gets even more acidic the deeper you get.

While the grounding theory is interesting and could have some merit, the corrosion continues on any metallic components that are not stainless steel despite the fact that all plumbing is now plastic. The only connection between electrical and plumbing is thru water heaters and the pressure tank, but that might add to the problem.