Hello, I am a new tractor owner and have been having a great time blowing snow with my Kubota LX2610. The overnight low temperature last night hit -26C. We are now "up to" -22C and after 10 seconds of using the glow plugs to warm the cylinders, the tractor won't start. The engine turns over fine and is connected to a battery conditioner. How long is "safe" to warm the cylinders using the glow plugs? Thank you.
Cold Weather Starting Problems
- Thread starter FarmtoLake
- Start date
I don't know, but I guarantee you there is a chart in your owner's manual that tells you.
Thanks, I did find the chart on page 53 of the manual. The chart only goes down to -15C (5F) and recommends 10 seconds at this level. I left it on for 15s at -22C and it didn't start. Is there a risk of keeping the glow plugs on too long? I heard they will burn out if left on for any longer than 10 seconds regularly.
pulse the glow plugs maybe , I believe messicks has a cold weather start on youtube.
good day for a block heater
good day for a block heater
Thanks and yes, a block heater is on my list of improvements I would like to make to this tractor.
Shouldn't be on a list, it should have been on the order when you purchased the tractor. Did the dealer ever mention this is a necessary item to purchase with the tractor? If you are going to install it yourself when it gets warm, then wait. If you are going to have the dealer do the installation, get it done now, before the time comes when you must have the tractor operational it is so cold that it won't start at all. I know how cold it can get in Canada, and I don't live there!
Thanks DustyRusty. When I bought the tractor brand new in November 2021, I asked about a block heater. The salesman said it was not needed in our area as long as you use a battery tender. I have been using the battery tender which is always plugged in when the tractor is not in use, however, it didn't help this morning. I tried 3 more times just a few minutes ago in the following cycle; 1) glow plugs on for 10 seconds 2) crank 3) no start. I am using winter diesel and also have added a fuel stabilizer. The water separator and the fuel filter look normal. I now have a tarp tent over the hood and a space heater under the tractor. Will leave it for an hour or two then give it another try.
I'm in Mid Michigan and it rarely gets below -10c in my barn where I keep my LX2610. But on this on as well as my old B7510 I have always had a block heater connected to a Wi-Fi controlled plug. That way I can turn on the block heater before I head out to the barn. usually 45 - 60 minutes is plenty to get the block up to about 40c. I have the block heater not because I'm worried about it starting. I have it because cold starts are about the hardest thing you can do to "abuse" the motor. Just thing with oil super cold how long it takes to get to all of the bearings and the valve train....
The $90 it cost me for the block heater and the handy plug I mounted on the side of the tractor will likely work out to a lot more hours I get out of the motor before it gets worn out. Just my $.02
The $90 it cost me for the block heater and the handy plug I mounted on the side of the tractor will likely work out to a lot more hours I get out of the motor before it gets worn out. Just my $.02
Thank you for this reply and picture. I will be adding a block heater and WiFi plug soon. In the meantime I will be using my makeshift tent heater to minimize damage from cold weather starting. The local forecast is calling for a few more nights down to -35C (-31F), so I had better get it right.
D
Deleted member 47704
Guest
When you add the block heater you will need a 17mm allen hex bit socket (it's extremely tight 100ftlbs +-) then a 1 3/8" socket for the heater (use pipe dope on the threads and get it really tight or it will leak). When you put in the heater you will need to turn the block drain petcock horizontal to clear the socket. I also changed my antifreeze to a nitrate free Cat ELC1 spec one instead of the green junk. It lasts much longer than the Green stuff and is not much more money. This is what I use NAPA stores carry it. https://latam.valvoline.com/en/productos/zerex-nitrite-free-extended-life-antifreeze-coolant.
Also I mounted a handy socket for the extension cord to plug into that has a water proof cover. I made a plate from a scrap piece of aluminum I had around and used an existing hole in the loader bracket to mount it. It was less than $20 on Amazon https://no.co/gcp1 The 16" cord was plenty to reach the short cord that came with the block heater.
RMS
Well-known member
Equipment
LX2610HSDC, RCR1260, PFL1242, LX2963, RB1684, WC-68,Flail Mower,Grapple, Z421
When I ordered my LX2610 I asked about a block heater (I live in Central Maine) and the dealer recommended not installing one. He said it was just another maintenance item to go bad and that he has not had problems starting tractors in his lot just using the glow plugs. I store mine in an unheated barn and also keep a battery tender on it. Getting thru this winter will tell if I need one or not.
nbryan
Well-known member
Equipment
B2650 BH77 LA534 54" ssqa Forks B2782B BB1560 Woods M5-4 MaxxHaul 50039
SE Manitoba and my new 2017 B2650HSD came with one by default. Didn't even have to ask.
For your cold starts until the heater is in maybe change to 5W-40 Rotella T6 at 50 hours or sooner even. The new machines come with 10W-30 engione oil, to spec, but the 5W-40 full synth T6 will flow way easier in these starting temps.
And to add, if brand new tractor, the engine takes some time to break in, and I actually find my 4 year old 760 hour tractor starts better than its first 100 hours or so.
For your cold starts until the heater is in maybe change to 5W-40 Rotella T6 at 50 hours or sooner even. The new machines come with 10W-30 engione oil, to spec, but the 5W-40 full synth T6 will flow way easier in these starting temps.
And to add, if brand new tractor, the engine takes some time to break in, and I actually find my 4 year old 760 hour tractor starts better than its first 100 hours or so.
D
Deleted member 47704
Guest
The dealer put the block heater in and loaded the rear tires with Rim Guard. Parts and labor total for both 150 bucks.
Thank you! Great information on this forum.
My LX2610 has 20 hours on it now. I will change out the 10W-30 to 5W-40 Rotella T6 soon. I am in central Ontario between Minden and Dorset. The tarp tent with a small electric heater under the engine for about 1.5 hours worked well. The engine started on first crank after using the glow plugs for 10 seconds.
torch
Well-known member
Equipment
B7100HSD, B2789, B2550, B4672, 48" cultivator, homemade FEL and Cab
I'm guessing I'm a little north of you, because it was -30°C here last night. My block heater quit working the other day, so I'm temporarily using a magnetic block heater that sticks to the oil pan. Not as efficient or effective, but does help.
As for how long to pre-heat the glow plugs, I don't have a BX but don't believe you will burn out the glow plugs after 10 seconds. If the block is that cold, the glow plugs will be cooled almost as fast as they heat! I preheat on my machine for a good full minute in these temps.
As for how long to pre-heat the glow plugs, I don't have a BX but don't believe you will burn out the glow plugs after 10 seconds. If the block is that cold, the glow plugs will be cooled almost as fast as they heat! I preheat on my machine for a good full minute in these temps.
A block heater will help a lot. I've had both a block heater and a lower rad heater in a couple of Benzes.
Run your throttle up about 1/2 way while glowing those 10 seconds (certainly should be long enough; my JD 2025R rarely takes more than 3, like the 1983 Benz; whereas, the 1973 Benz needed about a minute; Kubota must some some glow plugs in between these). Pull throttle back, of course, once it gets going and not stumbling.
If you have 15w40 goo in your crankcase, this will slow the cranking speed A LOT. Put 10w30 or 5w30 or 0w30 in, and it will crank 60% or so faster. The JD and Isuzu diesel both have either 0w30 or 5w30 and crank like summer time. I've computed relative cranking speeds, ergo the 60% value I mention.
Run your throttle up about 1/2 way while glowing those 10 seconds (certainly should be long enough; my JD 2025R rarely takes more than 3, like the 1983 Benz; whereas, the 1973 Benz needed about a minute; Kubota must some some glow plugs in between these). Pull throttle back, of course, once it gets going and not stumbling.
If you have 15w40 goo in your crankcase, this will slow the cranking speed A LOT. Put 10w30 or 5w30 or 0w30 in, and it will crank 60% or so faster. The JD and Isuzu diesel both have either 0w30 or 5w30 and crank like summer time. I've computed relative cranking speeds, ergo the 60% value I mention.
Thank you, Good to know your success in cold temps with the use of the glow plugs on for so long.
HVACRoger
Active member
Equipment
2021 L2501 Loader, Backhoe, LandPride Grapple, Tiller, Forks, Quick Connect