can someone tell me what this part is?

[Jckruid]

This came off of an early 80's Kubota M4500DT. It was attached to the firewall. Lately every time I would start it smoke would come from the wires attached to this part. Now the tractor won't start and this part gets real hot and smokes. Obviously the wiring was in bad shape and was causing the smoke. Can anyone tell me what this is and what function it serves? I cracked it trying to replace the jumper wire on it and Unfortunately I can't get the wire off. There are no electrical parts inside this piece. Only what you see on top. There was one wire attached to the empty posts on either end. Couldn't i just simply wire these two directly together? This appears to only be a jumper between two wires. I don't get the purpose of this. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thank you

 

[Jckruid]

I assume at one point there was a fuse between the jumper. That is the only purpose I can see for this part. Thanks for any help!

 

[Wild and Free]

That is a fusible link. The wire is the fuse for the terminals on either side of it. It appears judging by the crimped on ends that Some one may have removed the fusible link wire and put a normal wire in it which will cause the issues you are having.
You could remove it and install a normal fuse holder of equal amperage rating.
But it sounds like you have a shorted wire issue somewhere causing the smoke from overheated wires.

 

[Jckruid]

Yes, the connections on the link are extremely corroded and is where the smoke was coming from. I think someone installed the direct jumper many moons ago without putting the fuse back in between. Any idea what size fuse I should use? It's a link between the ignition and the starter I believe. Thanks!

 

[Jckruid]

I just put the two wires together directly for the moment and she fired right up with no smoking. It's been this way for decades so I didn't think it would a problem temporarily. I just needed the nerve to try that.

 

[D2Cat]

Probably had loose or dirty connections causing the heat build up.

You could replace with a smaller wire to let it function as a fuse, but a fuse would be much safer and easier to maintain.

 

[bcp]

I've often read of making a fusible link by using wire 4 sizes smaller than the rest of the circuit wire.

I did a search and it gets lots of hits.
https://www.google.com/search?q=fusible+link+sizing&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=fusible+link+"4+sizes"

Bruce

 

[Wild and Free]

Just splice in an inline fuse holder with a 30 amp fuse.

 

[skeets]

Might have come out of an old dodge

 

[OBKubota]

Might have come out of an old dodge

First thing I thought was it looked like a ballast resistor from my old 78 Monaco lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SDMauler]

The fuse needs to be sized for the wire. If it's 14 gauge, no larger than 15 amps, 12 gauge, no larger than a 20 amp fuse, 10 gauge, no larger than 30 amp fuse, etc. Fuses are there to protect the wiring, not the device on the end of the wire. Conversely, the wire needs to be large enough to carry enough current to quickly blow the fuse in case the wire shorts, or the device it feeds draws too much current. The "toaster element syndrome" happens because the wire is undersized for the fuse.

Also, when designing electrical wiring and circuits, they should be designed to be loaded only to 80% of the maximum capacity (the fuse size) to allow for startup peaks in current.

Hope this helps all you sparkies out there.

 

[skeets]

Yeah I have found more than one 1,000,000 amp slow blow fuse in UG DC trolley systems too,, ( thats a piece of trolley wire hidden in a fuse block)

 

[85Hokie]

I would either clean it well and try to reuse - or as mentioned, replace with a new wire and fuse holder.

 

[Tooljunkie]

My old power wagon heater fuse melted right out of the fusebox. I spliced in a high quality blade type fuse holder and a buss 30 amp fuse. Never had a problem since.

If you choose to re-use terminal block the screws and terminals need to be clean and connections need to be tight. I would also use terminal grease.

 

[CountryBumkin]

Just splice in an inline fuse holder with a 30 amp fuse.

That won't work.

A fusible link is designed to let high current flow for a short time without burning out.

So a 30 Amp fuse would blow at 40 amps, but a fusible link rated for 30 Amps would let 40 amps pass for a short time (if the time is excessive, the link gets too hot and melts).

 

[D2Cat]

There is such as thing as in inline slow blow fuse for autos.

http://www.mouser.com/Circuit-Protection/Fuses/Automotive-Fuses/_/N-ba8b5?P=1z0x8h0Z1z0s1tm

 

[pendoreille]

put a penny in a burned out fuse trick! I may have a roll of fuse wire floating about the shop. If memory serves me it is pretty light but let me look. Would gladly drop a length in the mail. Puttering in shop today and will get back at you.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

That won't work.

A fusible link is designed to let high current flow for a short time without burning out.

So a 30 Amp fuse would blow at 40 amps, but a fusible link rated for 30 Amps would let 40 amps pass for a short time (if the time is excessive, the link gets too hot and melts).

There are 30 amp inline fuses that are slow blow!
So it would work and probably the best repair method considering his original block is in such bad shape!

 

[CountryBumkin]

There are 30 amp inline fuses that are slow blow!
So it would work and probably the best repair method considering his original block is in such bad shape!

I have not seen any of these. I looked at the link provided above - those fuses where for 32VDC and above. The only slow blow "14V fuse" listed was a blade style and the "overcurrent time" before it burns out was only 0.5 sec.

Maybe there are slow-blow in-line fuses for 12v systems, just nothing I've come across before. But I've been out of the business for awhile too.

 

[Tooljunkie]

Mike, you are correct, no slow blow in the 12 automotive industry. Fusible links are commonplace. Get a 30 amp resettable circuit breaker. Then when it trips you have to reset.