BX2750 Snowblower - shaft spins, chain doesn't move

bfdow

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The shaft going into the reduction box spins but the chain doesn't move. I cannot find anything in the schematics I've looked at to see a shear in or woodruff key. I don't want to take it apart without having the piece to fix it on hand. Any ideas? Have you seen this problem before?

Thanks!

BFDow
 

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DustyRusty

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Is your driveshaft is turning, but the chain isn't moving, then most likely the allen set screws have come loose and the key has come out of the keyway. Don't be afraid to take it apart first to see what parts you will need, because most likely they will be standard hardware items. You will need the parts breakdown for the repair, and take lots of pictures as you take it apart. They are not that complicated to work on. BX2750 Snowblower Parts Diagram You can print the PDF and I suggest that you do that. Without knowing your mechanical ability it is difficult to give you a lot of guidance. If you need additional help, post here. If you get into needing more help, I can talk you through it by phone. I will send you a "conversation" with my number. Look for the little envelope in the top right corner of the screen and click on it.
 
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Kurtee

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In looking at the schematics this blower looks like the Honda that I have. I had this same thing happen to me. It was a roll pin in the shaft and small sprocket that broke. Not a big deal. After that I made sure to idle the engine when engaging the blower.
 
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Orangeglow

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Lots of great responses in this thread. When engaging my snowblower, on my BX2370, I set the rpms to 2000, which I have found to be the sweet spot for my blower engaging as smooth as it can, without a big hit. I barely notice a fluctuation in rpm, when I first engage it. Once engaged, I smoothly move the rpms to 3000, while snow blowing. To dis-engage the blower, I return the throttle down to idle, and then move the lever to dis-engage it.
 
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DustyRusty

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Lots of great responses in this thread. When engaging my snowblower, on my BX2370, I set the rpms to 2000, which I have found to be the sweet spot for my blower engaging as smooth as it can, without a big hit. I barely notice a fluctuation in rpm, when I first engage it. Once engaged, I smoothly move the rpms to 3000, while snow blowing. To dis-engage the blower, I return the throttle down to idle, and then move the lever to dis-engage it.
You would be better off starting your snowblower at idle and then increasing the RPM. In theory, disengaging the snowblower PTO can be done at any speed, since the disengaging doesn't put any stress on the mechanical moving parts, only engaging does that. Engaging the snowblower at 2000 RPM puts a lot of stress on the bearings, and especially the chain.
 
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bfdow

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Thanks for the help! I hope to take it apart tomorrow to see what is going on. If the shaft is broken (#2 in photo) are the bearings pressed in or will the shaft just slide in and out. Pressed in bearings means a trip to the Kubota dealership.

Thanks again!

BFDow
 

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North Idaho Wolfman

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Thanks for the help! I hope to take it apart tomorrow to see what is going on. If the shaft is broken (#2 in photo) are the bearings pressed in or will the shaft just slide in and out. Pressed in bearings means a trip to the Kubota dealership.

Thanks again!

BFDow
No, they should not be pressed bearings.
 
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GreensvilleJay

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Looking at the diagram, providing there's no burrs on the shaft, removing bolt,washer,nut(5,6,7) releases bearing (3)and bearing retainers (4). Shaft(2) should come out of the housing.
An easy job if in a nice warm garage,
 
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DustyRusty

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The solution? A broken pin where all the different schematics for a BX2750 do not show a pin! Thank you everyone for helping me with this. (A warm garage may have speeded up the diagnostic process...)
You might say that the "roll pin" aged out. I used to have a source for stainless steel roll pins, but as with a lot of US-based suppliers, they went out of business because of the "inexpensive" (cheap) imports. I am glad that I still have a good supply of the standard spring steel roll pins (American-made) that we used to use in the large truck equipment business that I was involved in about 40 years ago. Don't know if you know this, however, there are special punches specifically designed for driving them out and installing them.
 
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bfdow

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You might say that the "roll pin" aged out. I used to have a source for stainless steel roll pins, but as with a lot of US-based suppliers, they went out of business because of the "inexpensive" (cheap) imports. I am glad that I still have a good supply of the standard spring steel roll pins (American-made) that we used to use in the large truck equipment business that I was involved in about 40 years ago. Don't know if you know this, however, there are special punches specifically designed for driving them out and installing them.
When I searched roll pin the first thing that came up were the ads for punches and tools. Thank you, sir! BFDow
 
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GreensvilleJay

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hmm, 'roll' pin can also be called a 'spirol' pin (sp )....

I have seen machinery where there was a roll pin inside another roll pin ,presumably for extra strength yet yet to remove. They are cheap to use, cost pennies and fast to install compared to nuts and bolts.
 
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dlsmith

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There's no way a roll pin should be used to transmit power. If that's factory installed it's a really piss poor design. Replace it with a grade 5 bolt and self locking nut.
 
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bfdow

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I did replace it with a bolt because I didn't have a roll pin. I figured that if they are currently making the shaft and gear a one-piece unit now, I didn't have to worry much about shear-safety.
 

BAP

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There's no way a roll pin should be used to transmit power. If that's factory installed it's a really
Actually, there is quite a lot of roll pins used in drivelines on implements and attachments. Particularly in the foreign brands.
 

dlsmith

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Actually, there is quite a lot of roll pins used in drivelines on implements and attachments. Particularly in the foreign brands.
I can see using a roll pin for retention when there is a key or spline that carries the torque load, but using a small piece of rolled spring steel for shaft/yoke/bearing retention and torque load, I repeat is a piss poor design.
The gearbox on the MMM deck on my JD430 used a roll pin to retain the pulley that drove the blades, and it broke, fell out and the pulley eventually came off the shaft, ruining the shaft and the pulley. I replaced it with a 1/4" bolt and a self locking nut.
 

DustyRusty

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It might have had a bolt in the hole originally, and someone didn't have a bolt to fit, so they put a roll pin in its place. That might be the reason that it isn't listed on the parts diagram.
 
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BigCaddy

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Mine had a rollpin in it also. I think the pin is factory. I also couldn't find it online and the replacement shaft and sprocket are a welded unit. So, like you I'll probably just stick a bolt through.

gear.jpg
 
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mcmxi

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I can see using a roll pin for retention when there is a key or spline that carries the torque load, but using a small piece of rolled spring steel for shaft/yoke/bearing retention and torque load, I repeat is a piss poor design.
The gearbox on the MMM deck on my JD430 used a roll pin to retain the pulley that drove the blades, and it broke, fell out and the pulley eventually came off the shaft, ruining the shaft and the pulley. I replaced it with a 1/4" bolt and a self locking nut.
McMaster-Carr provides some values for maximum load to shear (double shear) roll pins of various sizes. A 3/16" roll pin can withstand up to 4,100 lb in shear.

 

TractorTed

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Mine had a rollpin in it also. I think the pin is factory. I also couldn't find it online and the replacement shaft and sprocket are a welded unit. So, like you I'll probably just stick a bolt through.

View attachment 120714
I took mine apart this afternoon. Also a roll pin. This whole thread is helpful confirmation! Now I gotta go get the punches to get it out, it seems really jammed in there. Will probs replace it with a bolt and locking nut.