BX23S - Wiring question for adding ROPS lights

[bdh1966]

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for some advice on adding LED lights to the ROPS. My question is surrounding the wiring that is provided on the rear of the tractor. I found three factory wires taped up and appear to be for factory accessory lighting.

One wire is hot to the battery, the second is hot with the key and the third appears to be the common wire. With that, here are my questions.

1. When I add the lights, do I need to add a relay? I'm assuming no since the factory added the connection.
2. Does anyone know how many watts this rear wiring can handle without overloading the circuit?
3. Any suggestions on a style or brand of on/off switch that can mount reasonably so the LED lights are not on unless I need them?

If this has been addressed in other threads, my apologies.

Thanks in advance!

bdh1966

 

[nbking]

You will not need a relay. Your wiring should be able to handle most led lights. I installed a couple switches on a bracket I fabbed. I got the switches and led lights from Amazon. I installed 2 forward and 2 rearward lights on my Rops. The lights are 27 watt each. I started a thread and had pictures, but not sure how to put a link in.

 

[Fordtech86]

In general you can take the fuse rating for that circuit to find a wattage. Volts x amps=Watts. Factor in the wattage of all your lights together.

I used relays for my leds that I added to mine.
http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38303&highlight=L3200+light+upgrade

 

[atitus]

One other thing to consider: I wanted to be able to turn the lights on when the tractor was not running, for example so I could clear snow or ice debris at night when snow blowing. I ran wires from battery to the rops, and installed that way. No relay, just got a waterproof switch that was rated for the current. Also, I put an inline fuse -- highly recommend this. If anything ever shorts, will prevent disaster.

 

[bdh1966]

Thank you guys!

 

[bambam31]

One other thing to consider: I wanted to be able to turn the lights on when the tractor was not running, for example so I could clear snow or ice debris at night when snow blowing. I ran wires from battery to the rops, and installed that way. No relay, just got a waterproof switch that was rated for the current. Also, I put an inline fuse -- highly recommend this. If anything ever shorts, will prevent disaster.

I ran mine directly to the battery with a fuse and a relay. I got the harness on Amazon but had to add more wire. I did not want to make any electrical modifications to the original wiring.

 

[tiktock]

One other thing to consider: I wanted to be able to turn the lights on when the tractor was not running, for example so I could clear snow or ice debris at night when snow blowing. I ran wires from battery to the rops, and installed that way. No relay, just got a waterproof switch that was rated for the current. Also, I put an inline fuse -- highly recommend this. If anything ever shorts, will prevent disaster.

Not sure if the 23S is the same as the 1880BX but there's a wiring harness taped up and hidden under the back fender right near the PTO. Three wires there. One is a ground, one is on a "keyed" circuit meaning it will only put out when the key is turned on and theres an "always hot" line there too. I wanted the ability to use my lights now and then for quick night projects without turning the tractor on so I wired my lights to that "always hot" line. Mine was stock on something like a 20A fuse and easily handled my lights.

Should be around here on the BX...may be different or not exist on the 23S with the backhoe there:

Only downside is I have to be careful because my toddler loves pressing those pretty illuminated light buttons I installed. One of these days he's gonna sneak in, press one, and I'll come out to a dead battery I am sure but thats my problem and he shouldnt be on or around the tractor unattended in the first place.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I was thinking of literally plugging into the socket in the compartment on the left side of the seat, at least for 'test purposes'.

 

[D2Cat]

Tiktock, if you're concerned about the youngster leaving a switch on, why not install a disconnect switch for the battery? Then everything is safe.

 

[tiktock]

Tiktock, if you're concerned about the youngster leaving a switch on, why not install a disconnect switch for the battery? Then everything is safe.

I 100% agree with what you're saying. I'am also lazy so what I've told myself is that my kid shouldnt be anywhere near my tractor unsupervised in the first place so if he is and flips and swtich and my battery goes dead it will be my punishment for breaking the "no kids around machinery unattended" rule.

...but in reality I'm mostly lazy and just havent go around to it

 

[woodacer]

Not sure if the 23S is the same as the 1880BX but there's a wiring harness taped up and hidden under the back fender right near the PTO. Three wires there. One is a ground, one is on a "keyed" circuit meaning it will only put out when the key is turned on and theres an "always hot" line there too. I wanted the ability to use my lights now and then for quick night projects without turning the tractor on so I wired my lights to that "always hot" line. Mine was stock on something like a 20A fuse and easily handled my lights.

Should be around here on the BX...may be different or not exist on the 23S with the backhoe there:

Only downside is I have to be careful because my toddler loves pressing those pretty illuminated light buttons I installed. One of these days he's gonna sneak in, press one, and I'll come out to a dead battery I am sure but thats my problem and he shouldnt be on or around the tractor unattended in the first place.

I have a 2018 BX23S. I can confirm that the picture of the three wires is the same for my tractor. Solves my power problems for installing my Artillian ROPS LED lights.
Thank-you

 

[DustyRusty]

I have a BX23S with the Curtis / Kubota deluxe cab and was thinking of hooking the hot wire permanently to the positive wire of the LED to the ignition switched wire at the rear of the tractor. Then I would extend the negative wire into the switch panel at the top of the windshield of the cab. Then that neutral wire will be hooked to a switch and from the switch back to the busbar that is located inside of the switch box. Is my idea a sound way of wiring the light? It will be protected by the Kubota installed fuse.

 

[Fordtech86]

Then that neutral wire will be hooked to a switch and from the switch back to the busbar that is located inside of the switch box.

Don’t know how your tractor/cab set up. You can have the switch on either the power side or the ground side, doesn’t really matter.

Is there already a switch there? If so it’s probably wired as a positive switch so you would need to pull the feed off of it. Depending on the switch it may be backlit so you may need a power feed to that if you want that option. If its an internal feed for backlight then it won’t work on the ground side. Not sure if it matters to you, power would be switched from the key so wouldn’t matter if you forget to turn the switch off.

Personally not how I would do it, but it would work.

 

[Fordtech86]

Also add, not sure what LED lights you are adding or if you have a radio, but a lot of them (cheaper ones) will cause interference with the radio.

 

[DustyRusty]

Also add, not sure what LED lights you are adding or if you have a radio, but a lot of them (cheaper ones) will cause interference with the radio.

I don't have a radio, so that isn't an issue. The only switch that was installed into the roof panel by the dealer was for the front LED lights, and that came with the cab. Kubota uses the Carling Technologies Contura II switches, and I had a bunch of them from a used boat dashboard, and that is what I used for the switch for my 3rd function valve. At the same time that I did the wiring for the 3rd function valve, I also put two more switches into the panel for future use. I only wish that they had cut the panel for more than just 4 switches. I have been looking for a metal hole punch that I could use to punch additional holes into the panel, however, I have yet to find one. When I get around to wiring the light, I will do it the way that you suggest. I already have circuit breakers installed in the holes below the switches.