BX23S engine oil filter accessible from below? (stuck oil filter)

ejb11235

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Not to muddy waters, but the plier/channel lock type worked good on my BX. First filter change it was real tight.

Could get a bite on it straight up from below, and I got good leverage on the pliers. They're also narrow enough I can get to the filter pretty easy with the shroud on.
Ah, this of course, was the question I started this whole thread with...which is whether you can come up from the bottom with the filter pliers. Someone stated that you cannot. It's good to know that this might actually be a possibility ... I'll check it myself next time I'm at my tractor. I'm feeling pretty optimistic about the claw action end cap tool, but it's good to know there are other options. Thanks for confirming that it's not just my tractor that has the tight first filter.
 

ejb11235

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I sure hope that you don't ever have to tackle some really difficult repairs on your tractor.
Yeah, the current situation is far from ideal, but it works. I have the tractor parked at a neighbor's house, which is nice because he's a full-time resident. I have been clearing an area where I"ll eventually put shipping containers and a covered area. Once I have a truck and trailer then things will be a whole lot easier because I'll have the option of trailoring it to my shop building in the city 65 miles away.
 

Mark_BX25D

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The problem with the screwdriver method is that it sometimes just tears the filter apart, making the problem worse.

I like the looks of that Motiv tool.


But just make sure you are turning the right direction. It's easy to get mixed up when attacking it from a weird angle.


Don't ask me why I know to give that advice..... ;)
 

ejb11235

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BX23S, Braber BBR4G 4' Box Blade & LRM5G 5' landscape rake
Jan 20, 2022
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The problem with the screwdriver method is that it sometimes just tears the filter apart, making the problem worse.

I like the looks of that Motiv tool.

But just make sure you are turning the right direction. It's easy to get mixed up when attacking it from a weird angle.

Don't ask me why I know to give that advice..... ;)
Exactly. And even if you get the screwdriver in, you still have to be able to turn it. There's not a lot of room in the BX for any of that. I think there are far better options. Fortunately the filter is on the side, so I won't have to do any mental coordinate transformations on lefty-loosy righty-tighty.
 

WhatnxtBX

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BX2380
Jun 10, 2019
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Lk Stevens, WA
Channel-lock pliers work fine for me. Just go over the top of the filter. You will slightly crush the top of the filter to get a good grip and then turn. For the trans filter, I have to put some duck tape on the inside of my strap-wrench to get a good tight fit.
 

Dieseldonato

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I use a 3 finger style clamp. Works similar to the 2 figer one mentioned above save its extremely compact compared to the 2 finger variety.
Can't remember where I got mine but is basically this same thing.

Adjustable 3 Jaw Oil Filter Wrench Tool Best for Removing Motorcycles Cars Trucks & Heavy Duty Oil Filters Fits Diameters 2 1/8-4 1/2 Inches Fits ⅜ and ½ inch Drive https://a.co/d/evgjsZ0
Either the filter will come off or you have other problems to deal with.
 

GreensvilleJay

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post #8, dusty rusty, has a picture of what I use on my BX23S for the past 4 years worth of oil changes.
This 'band' style is far better than the 'channellock crush' or 'screwdriver slip' methods....
 

Mark_BX25D

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post #8, dusty rusty, has a picture of what I use on my BX23S for the past 4 years worth of oil changes.
This 'band' style is far better than the 'channellock crush' or 'screwdriver slip' methods....

Yeah, the problem with any of the methods that significantly deform the filter is that once you start down that road, you eliminate a lot of other options. Yeah, they often work, but when they don't, things get a lot more difficult really fast.
 

ejb11235

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Yeah, the problem with any of the methods that significantly deform the filter is that once you start down that road, you eliminate a lot of other options. Yeah, they often work, but when they don't, things get a lot more difficult really fast.
Exactly...this is why it makes sense to think through the sequence of tools instead of just bulldozing in. I think this comes down to whether the issue is 1) getting enough torque on the filter housing, or 2) the filter is on so tight that housing itself can't transmit enough torque. I've chosen and ordered the tool I'm going to use to handle the first situation, and informed myself of how to deal with the second. So now I wait until I get the tools and get back to the tractor next week.
 
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Dieseldonato

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So your problem is really some idiot put the filter on too tight. Now that your doing your own service it shouldn't be an issue anymore. This all becomes a moot point. Unless your one of those strong arm apes that think the filter needs cranked down till it won't move. Normally you go 1/2 to 3/4 turn past the gasket touching the filter housing. The filter should come off by hand when it's due for its next service.
 
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ejb11235

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So your problem is really some idiot put the filter on too tight. Now that your doing your own service it shouldn't be an issue anymore. This all becomes a moot point. Unless your one of those strong arm apes that think the filter needs cranked down till it won't move. Normally you go 1/2 to 3/4 turn past the gasket touching the filter housing. The filter should come off by hand when it's due for its next service.
It's the 50 hour service ... as far as I know this filter was put on at the factory. And I am definitely not a fan of the strong-arm ape approach.

Keep in mind that I really haven't put a proper tool on this filter yet. I tried using one of those nylon strap things, and it tore, but I haven't had a real tool on this thing. So I'm hoping this all turns out to be a big non-issue and that I just wasted everybody's time with all these posts. Although I have learned a lot more about oil filter tools and techniques.
 
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Fordtech86

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20 yrs in the car dealer world, extremely tight factory filters are the norm. And as diesel says, techs that think they need to crank them down (along with drain plugs). I like quick lube places tho, easy money 😂
 
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ejb11235

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So tell us what kind of oil are you using when you change it 😜
You do realize the risk that we might be starting another oil thread? 😂

I'm going to use Rotella T6. I have three gallons ... one for this service, one for the next one, and one in case civilization collapses.
 
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GreensvilleJay

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If possible, place the wrench as close to the engine block as possible and in the best position to get a 'long arc' to swing... it'll come off fine...
and...be careful if it releases real fast ! Be sure hand can't hit something ,say sharp and steel like....
 
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ejb11235

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BX23S, Braber BBR4G 4' Box Blade & LRM5G 5' landscape rake
Jan 20, 2022
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Seattle, WA, USA
If possible, place the wrench as close to the engine block as possible and in the best position to get a 'long arc' to swing... it'll come off fine...
and...be careful if it releases real fast ! Be sure hand can't hit something ,say sharp and steel like....
Oh yeah, I've learned my lesson on that one before. I'm super careful now about potential knuckle buster scenarios.
 

DustyRusty

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How about a discussion of what the proper type of oil collection container should be used? Personally, I like the plastic container that has a spigot at the end to pour the used oil into a container to go to the shop that burns it for heat in the winter.
I don't drain the oil from the pan by removing the nut, I use a pump down the dipstick hole. Sucks out all the oil, and I get to keep my hands clean.
Do you write the type and brand of oil used on the end of the filter along with the hours and tenths of hours, so you know when it was last changed and how often do you change your engine oil?
 

ejb11235

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BX23S, Braber BBR4G 4' Box Blade & LRM5G 5' landscape rake
Jan 20, 2022
377
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Seattle, WA, USA
How about a discussion of what the proper type of oil collection container should be used? Personally, I like the plastic container that has a spigot at the end to pour the used oil into a container to go to the shop that burns it for heat in the winter.
I don't drain the oil from the pan by removing the nut, I use a pump down the dipstick hole. Sucks out all the oil, and I get to keep my hands clean.
Do you write the type and brand of oil used on the end of the filter along with the hours and tenths of hours, so you know when it was last changed and how often do you change your engine oil?
I recycle my oil, so I like the all-in-one containers that you drain into, screw the lid on, and then have another spigot for pouring once I get to the recycling station. I have a friend who used the pump approach on his car, but I take the drain plug out of the pan.

I'm interested in getting a form-a-funnel https://formafunnel.com/

I usually write my oil change on the filter end with a sharpie pen ... for vehicles it would be mileage and date ... for tractor I guess operating hours and date. But no, I don't keep a record of it or the oil I use. Tenths of hours seems overly precise.

I am interested in opening up the filters for the tractor; both the engine oil and hydraulic fluid and inspecting the filter element and the residual oil. Neil at Messicks recently released a video doing this at 50 hours. While I'm posting up Messick's videos, he also just did one on using coffee filters on the fuel tank filler.
 
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ejb11235

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BX23S, Braber BBR4G 4' Box Blade & LRM5G 5' landscape rake
Jan 20, 2022
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Seattle, WA, USA
What a nice collection of filter removal tools you will have when this is over!
Will come in handy in the future.
Good Luck!
I think I'm going to buy two more at Harbor Freight before my next attempt.