BX2200D Not Starting [Please Help]

[Sir_Angus]

Longtime lurker, first time poster... I've got extensive experience with most vehicles, but relatively new to tractors.

And so the story begins, bought a used BX2200D that ran ok. After a year of use (two winters ago) I decided to do some routine maintenance (due to a bad starter) and upgrade the dash since I couldn't source a dash overlay. As the work progressed, I found many poorly spliced and/or corroded connections, and after a lot of work found the problems continued throughout the harness. So, I decided to refresh the tractor. Here's the short list:

New wire assembly harness
New (optional) alternator wire assembly harness
New ignition switch
New starter
New alternator
New relays
New lighting
New battery cables
New gauges, dash lights, and switches
New fuel filters

Now that everything is connected properly, when I turn the key to 1st position I can hear the fuel pump run, but I get no pre-heat indicator light nor is the BR wire energized. Gauges work, oil pressure light on, battery light on, and head/hazard lights work. Turn key to start and engine does turn over, but will not run. It doesn't even act like it'll fire up. With the key held in the run position the BR wire is energized, however the indicator light isn't. I tried holding the key in that position for 30 seconds then tried starting with no effect.

I've checked for fuel and can see fuel filling the filter bowl closest to the engine. The battery has a full charge. All electrical connections were either cleaned or replaced. I tried using my old ignition switch but got the same result. I compared the new harness to my old one and everything matched except the new harness has an additional W wire that terminates at the same location as the BR wire for the glow plugs. That W wire does get energized when the ignition is on. I spoke with both Coleman Equipment (the supplier I bought most everything from) and Messicks and they both confirmed I have the correct part for my model/serial # tractor.

I'm at my wits end with trying to figure this out, but can't get the tractor to a local dealer if I wanted to.

 

[Henro]

The BX 2200 has a fuel cut off solenoid that must be energized in order for the engine to start.

The starter is turning over the engine so you know your safety interlock circuit is OK.

So you need fuel and maybe you need the glow plugs. Of course you need air too.

You need to verify that both coils in the fuel cut off solenoid are being energized when you’re trying to start the engine. You should also verify whether you’re getting voltage to the glow plugs. If both of these things are correct, then you need to look at your fuel supply lines.

Since you did a lot of electrical work, I would myself verify the electrical side first.

I believe you can download a workshop manual for the BX 2200 for free (or preferably a small donation) from kabotabooks.com. You really need to have an electrical diagram in order to troubleshoot your tractor. Don’t be confused by the electrical diagram for the BX 2200. It shows details for two different engines. I forget the engine designations, but the drawing can be confusing if you don’t know this.

You could remove the fuel cut off solenoid as a quick check, but if the engine started, you would have to manually hold it back in place in order to shut the engine down.

 

[Russell King]

Not 100% sure on how your tractor controls the glow plugs but an interesting and general concept that Kubota has is to power glow plugs in two key positions. For example on my L185 the switch is held in the glow plug position and power flows to the glow plugs. Then you turn it to the start position and power is applied to the glow plugs and the starter.

I believe that you have a problem with the fuel not being delivered to the glow plugs since it will crank but not fire. Check out the fuel shutoff as mentioned by Henry. You may be able to just push the rod to the on position and hold it there to confirm that is the problem just be careful to not get run over by the tractor.

 

[Sir_Angus]

Thanks for the replies.

I appreciate the link for the WSM. I had read about Kubotabooks.com on here in the past. Not sure I would've attempted such an ambitious project without the wiring diagram.

I'll check the stop solenoid.

I am getting power to the glow plugs in the start/run position, but not in the pre-heat position.

 

[Wull]

I’m not entirely sure what solenoid the BX2200 has but remove the connector that goes to the stop solenoid and test to see if voltage is getting there. I think it’s a internal plunger type solenoid that has 3 wires, if it has 3 wires then it has 12v supply when ignition is on but also 12v supply when the key is turned to the start position, so this wire will only supply voltage whilst the engine is cranking, it’s usually the white wire iirc.

It’s referred to a a pull and hold solenoid, the constant 12v when ignition is on holds it but it needs the voltage when cranking to pull the plunger. Your issue could be here.

Another quick test to make sure you are getting fuel to the injectors is crack the lines at the injectors, if you are getting fuel then the solenoid is working as it should.

 

[Henro]

I’m not entirely sure what solenoid the BX2200 has but remove the connector that goes to the stop solenoid and test to see if voltage is getting there. I think it’s a internal plunger type solenoid that has 3 wires, if it has 3 wires then it has 12v supply when ignition is on but also 12v supply when the key is turned to the start position, so this wire will only supply voltage whilst the engine is cranking, it’s usually the white wire iirc.

It’s referred to a a pull and hold solenoid, the constant 12v when ignition is on holds it but it needs the voltage when cranking to pull the plunger. Your issue could be here.

Another quick test to make sure you are getting fuel to the injectors is crack the lines at the injectors, if you are getting fuel then the solenoid is working as it should.

I don't remember the wire colors, but you are right with respect to how the solenoid on the BX2200 works. It has a hold coil and a pull in coil.

When no voltage is applied fuel is cut off. If only the pull in coil works, the engine will start, but shut down immediately when the key returns to the run position. If the pull in coil does not work, the fuel will stay cut off regardless of whether the hold coil is energized or not.

Edit: One caveat is that final BX2200s that came out of production MIGHT have the wiring set up of the following model. Apparently, Kubota did this if nearing the end of a production run if they ran out of the original parts needed (or maybe for other reasons known only to them).

 

[Wull]

Yeah exactly that, so all you have to do is test for power when the ignition is switched on, and then when the key is turned to the start position. If you have no power here then it’s looking like the relay that’s at fault.

If you do have power there and suspect the solenoid is not working you can remove it and bench test it or you can crack the hard line at the injector to see if any fuel is there.

 

[Henro]

Yeah exactly that, so all you have to do is test for power when the ignition is switched on, and then when the key is turned to the start position. If you have no power here then it’s looking like the relay that’s at fault.

If you do have power there and suspect the solenoid is not working you can remove it and bench test it or you can crack the hard line at the injector to see if any fuel is there.

If I were a betting man, I would bet that the fuel cutoff solenoid is OK, and the issue is with the wiring, since the OP did a lot of wiring replacement, and the tractor worked properly before that. What I think I remember him saying anyway.

With my BX2200 there is no relay. Power for the solenoid comes directly from the key switch. That is what I remember anyway. Been a couple years since the hold coil in my solenoid failed.

 

[Wull]

Yeah more than likely, the test at the connector will show this.

 

[Sir_Angus]

UPDATE #1

When key is in "ACC/Pre-heat" position:
- Glow plugs get 0 volts
- Stop solenoid plunger extended

When key is held in "Run" position:
- Glow plugs get ~10V
- Stop solenoid plunger retracts & held

When key is held in "Start" position:
- Glow Plugs get ~8V
- Stop solenoid plunger retracts & held
- Engine turns over

--- Caveat: Just to be clear that the new electrical parts are all OEM and the harness came pre-terminated. Should've been "plug-n-play".

--- Caveat 2: I know the diesel in the tank is 2 years old, but that shouldn't prevent starting or running. Also, it's currently 75*F outside so temperature shouldn't be a factor either.

 

[Sir_Angus]

UPDATE #2

After reading the responses (much appreciated), I decided to try the "no fuel" possibility; even though I can hear the fuel pump run and could see fuel filling the filter bowl.

I disconnected the air cleaner hose and applied diesel safe starting fluid directly into the intake... It started and almost ran for a fraction of a second!

Now, I'm considering that maybe the fuel pump works but is too weak to fully pressurize the line?
(Also, verified I didn't accidentally reverse the fuel filters flow... I did not.)

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

UPDATE #2

After reading the responses (much appreciated), I decided to try the "no fuel" possibility; even though I can hear the fuel pump run and could see fuel filling the filter bowl.

I disconnected the air cleaner hose and applied diesel safe starting fluid directly into the intake... It started and almost ran for a fraction of a second!

Now, I'm considering that maybe the fuel pump works but is too weak to fully pressurize the line?
(Also, verified I didn't accidentally reverse the fuel filters flow... I did not.)

DO NOT use starting fluid!
These engines break in a split second from any use!

There is no pressure in that part of the fuel system, real simple pull the line off the side of the injection pump, turn the key on, if you get fuel flow your fine. If you don't you have a restriction in the system, there are multiple fuel filters check them all.

 

[Sir_Angus]

DO NOT use starting fluid!
These engines break in a split second from any use!

There is no pressure in that part of the fuel system, real simple pull the line off the side of the injection pump, turn the key on, if you get fuel flow your fine. If you don't you have a restriction in the system, there are multiple fuel filters check them all.

Yes, both filters were replaced at the same time.

I checked fuel flow as described above and it seems to be ok.

Is it possible (having sat outside for nearly 2 years without running) that one or more injectors have failed in some way?

 

[Russell King]

Okay I will recap what I think you said:
you have fuel being pumped into the injection pump.
you are sure the fuel cutoff is working properly
your glow plugs are getting power in some key positions but not in preheating position.
It fires off with fuel though the air intake

Try these steps and see what happens
put key in run position for 10 to 15 seconds and then crank it to see if it starts

if that doesn’t work then try to crack open the fuel lines at the injectors to be 100% sure you are getting fuel there. I don’t think you need to bleed it but just crank for a few seconds to see if fuel is ejected from the lines

if no fuel appears then something is going on in the injector lines or the injection pump (I think)

 

[Wull]

As I said before and which is said above crack open the hard line at the injectors to see if there is fuel there.
Also if you have the 3 wire solenoid then you should have a pin that gets 12v when the ignition is on, did you only test the pin that gets the 12v when you turn the key to start? Not that it matters because it works in that position and should start albeit it would cut back out if the “hold” power feed wasn’t there for the solenoid.

It’s possible the injectors are shot, if you can see whether or not fuel is getting to them then that would be a high possibility.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes, both filters were replaced at the same time.

I checked fuel flow as described above and it seems to be ok.

Is it possible (having sat outside for nearly 2 years without running) that one or more injectors have failed in some way?

The injectors can get "stuck" and not pop but that's fairly rare.
I would do like the others have stated and crack the injector lines on top of the injectors and see if you get fuel when you crank it.

 

[Henro]

UPDATE #1

When key is in "ACC/Pre-heat" position:
- Glow plugs get 0 volts
- Stop solenoid plunger extended

When key is held in "Run" position:
- Glow plugs get ~10V
- Stop solenoid plunger retracts & held

When key is held in "Start" position:
- Glow Plugs get ~8V
- Stop solenoid plunger retracts & held
- Engine turns over

--- Caveat: Just to be clear that the new electrical parts are all OEM and the harness came pre-terminated. Should've been "plug-n-play".

--- Caveat 2: I know the diesel in the tank is 2 years old, but that shouldn't prevent starting or running. Also, it's currently 75*F outside so temperature shouldn't be a factor either.

On my BX 2200, the only way to see the fuel cut off solenoid plunger is to remove the solenoid from the injector pump. Is yours different or did you have the solenoid removed from the injector pump? Was the solenoid off the injector pump when the engine turned over but did not start?

 

[Sir_Angus]

@Russel King - Your recap is spot on.
“put key in run position for 10 to 15 seconds and then crank it to see if it starts” - No change

@Wull and Henro - I removed the stop solenoid and tested. It works as designed.

UPDATE #3

I opened 1 injector line (closest to front), then tried the key in each position.

No fuel flow.

Injection pump, maybe?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

UPDATE #3

I opened 1 injector line (closest to front), then tried the key in each position.

No fuel flow.

Injection pump, maybe?

You have to crank it to get fuel.
The key and electric fuel pump being on does not supply fuel to the injectors, that is purely mechanical.

 

[Sir_Angus]

You have to crank it to get fuel.
The key and electric fuel pump being on does not supply fuel to the injectors, that is purely mechanical.

yes, that’s what I meant by “tried key in each position.” I held the key in the start position for 10-15 seconds. Here’s my results…

ACC/Preheat - No fuel
Run - No fuel
Start - No fuel