BX1850 Sputtering

[MW3Designs]

Not sure how to explain this, but I am having an issue where I will be using my BX1850 at around 2500 RPM and it will start sputtering like its going to stall and idle down, it happens weather or not I am using the PTO. I had it happen one time before, but today it happened multiple times randomly. Not too sure where to start troubleshooting, tractor has fresh good fuel in it, recent hydraulic and engine oil change, have not replaced glow plugs, 539hrs on tractor.

 

[DustyRusty]

When were your fuel filters last changed? Good possibility that the fuel filters are still allowing fuel to flow through them, but it isn't enough for the fuel demand of the engine. Start with the easy stuff that needs to be done on a regular basis, i.e. fuel filters. Also after those are changed, check to see if the fuel pump is working properly.

 

[85Hokie]

Glow plugs NOT the issue.......

Good fuel is great

WHEN was last time filter nearest tank was replaced?

YOUR sputtering is fuel delivery ........... filters!

 

[GreensvilleJay]

or a 'semifloater' in the tank...

 

[MW3Designs]

I didn’t even think about the fuel filters…..

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

There is 2 fuel filters on that model .
One back near the tank and one up front, side of the engine

Or another option is the seat switch.
If it's failing or maladjusted then it could cause the engine to cut in and out.

 

[ehenry]

I had that exact problem on my BX22 and changing the filters always fixed the issue for a period of time. The only issue I had with it was the Kubota dealership always had to order the filters and it was a several day wait to get them. I changed to a WIX filter which is a metal screen element filter rather than a paper element filter like the Kubota filter. That was 10 years ago and I haven't had the sputtering issue since going to the WIX filter.

 

[85Hokie]

I didn’t even think about the fuel filters…..

The filter in the diagram that Wolfman pointed out - (180) is a royal PITA to get to and change!

I would remove as MUCH fuel from the tank as possible, not dry, just lower it.

Get a good set of fuel hose wrench clamps or use locking pliers with soft insert and pinch the hose prior to the filter.

I would personally get a 5/16 (8mm) 1/4 ball valve and place that on the end of the hose ONCE you remove the filter and then get another small piece of hose and continue the run.

Several of us have relocated the fuel filter to the front - which is a little more involved.

ONCE you get the new filter installed and hoses clamped again - fill tank, and turn key and hold for a full 30 seconds to a minute! The fuel pump will tick-tick and so on............. then it will change sounds, the tick tick will change pitch....... keep holding the key.

then start engine - it may sputter or run a bit poorly for a few seconds - if it does not clear up after a few seconds, re-bleed the system.

Report back after the filter change

 

[MW3Designs]

Thanks for all the replies! I didn't get a chance to get to the dealer today, but I did watch some youtube videos about relocating the filter, and using a different filter type, seems the way to go. I will post back once I get the filters changed.

 

[MW3Designs]

I wasn’t able to get the OEM filters, but was able to find some similar ones for now to see if this was my issue. The filters were definitely dirty, I cut them open to have a look and I don’t know if they were ever replaced by the previous owner.

 

[85Hokie]

I wasn’t able to get the OEM filters, but was able to find some similar ones for now to see if this was my issue. The filters were definitely dirty, I cut them open to have a look and I don’t know if they were ever replaced by the previous owner.

not sure if "dirty" is the right word. That was about 5 years past dirty.

I am sure that will "clear" up your problem - the 1/4 ball valve is a nice touch IF you do not relocate the filter.

 

[MW3Designs]

not sure if "dirty" is the right word. That was about 5 years past dirty.

I am sure that will "clear" up your problem - the 1/4 ball valve is a nice touch IF you do not relocate the filter.

I am kind of embarrassed that I didn't change them immediately when I got it. Think I got so caught up in changing the hydraulic fluid, and engine oil that I completely neglected the fuel filters. Hopefully we will get one last snow storm here in NY so I can test it out.

 

[85Hokie]

I am kind of embarrassed that I didn't change them immediately when I got it. Think I got so caught up in changing the hydraulic fluid, and engine oil that I completely neglected the fuel filters. Hopefully we will get one last snow storm here in NY so I can test it out.

no worries! Like air in the tire, few check it till it goes somewhat flat!

 

[Mark_BX25D]

I would remove as MUCH fuel from the tank as possible, not dry, just lower it.

Get a good set of fuel hose wrench clamps or use locking pliers with soft insert and pinch the hose prior to the filter.

With a good clamp like that, there's really no need to lower the fuel level. That clamp will handle it with no problem. I know about belts and suspenders, but really, there's also the cost/benefit to consider. Lots of work to lower the fuel level, and really, no benefit other than a warm fuzzy feeling.

I would personally get a 5/16 (8mm) 1/4 ball valve and place that on the end of the hose ONCE you remove the filter and then get another small piece of hose and continue the run.

Yes indeed!