BX1850 or BX2660 for 5 acres

[DavidSO]

We're shopping for equipment for our newly purchased 5 acre home and could use suggestions. I've considered starting with a separate mower, maybe zero-turn, but they all seem disposable these days. Hoping tractor versions will last. I've found both a BX1850 and BX2660 with low hours. The BX2660 has a loader, the BX1850 an auger. Both have MMM.

Work to do:
Residence lawn mowing about 1.25 acres with some landscaping
Field mowing, about 1.5 acres.
1/4 acre tiller
Hillside trees/scrub about 1 acre.
Dragging the occasional debris
150 or so post holes/PTO auger.
100 yards of gravel driveway, blade or box.
Shed pad prep very mild excavation.
A PTO generator would be nice but these are both probably too small.

I come from antique, primitive tractors on larger plots, so both of these seem pretty new to me if tiny. I'm most concerned with durability and not under-buying on power. Again, any pointers will be very welcome. Thanks!

 

[imnukensc]

Go with the 2660. Having the extra HP and a FEL far outweigh having a post hole digger, IMO.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

working backwards...
a PTO genny will prevent tractor from being used,kinda obvious but..consider you need power AND have to clear a fallen tree,or 3' of snow.....which do you choose ?

driveway can be maintained using steel bar and old tractor chains.key is to do it every 2 weeks NOT once a year....

postholes . PLAN the job, then rent a machine,2 guys,done in a day or weekend.

lawn mowing - consider a 2nd machine,unless you're young and healthy.MMM isn't 'fun' to remove/install.

given the 2 choices, the 2660. more power has loader,BONUS if SSQA as pallet forks are real handy !!

 

[rc51stierhoff]

We're shopping for equipment for our newly purchased 5 acre home and could use suggestions. I've considered starting with a separate mower, maybe zero-turn, but they all seem disposable these days. Hoping tractor versions will last. I've found both an 1850 and 2660 with low hours. The 2660 has a loader, the 1850 an auger. Both have MMM.

Work to do:
Residence lawn mowing about 1.25 acres with some landscaping
Field mowing, about 1.5 acres.
1/4 acre tiller
Hillside trees/scrub about 1 acre.
Dragging the occasional debris
150 or so post holes/PTO auger.
100 yards of gravel driveway, blade or box.
Shed pad prep very mild excavation.
A PTO generator would be nice but these are both probably too small.

I come from antique, primitive tractors on larger plots, so both of these seem pretty new to me if tiny. I'm most concerned with durability and not under-buying on power. Again, any pointers will be very welcome. Thanks!

Good day. I’ve had a BX and still have a B…if you are used to older tractors, I don’t think durability really is an issue with orange…however both the BX and B run out of traction before they do power. But they are very durable and with 4WD they are pretty incredible. Machine weight is their weakness…engine has plenty of power. For your described tasks either should be fine…if you plan to use forks or lift heavy stuff, I’d trend toward the B with extra lift capability. Depending on your soil type, an auger on a BX or B may not be best option…may be better off to rent a skid steer or pay someone versus buying the attachment IMO. If don’t need a MMM, Maybe also price an L250X. I’d price multiple and trend toward tasks you plan to do the most regular. Happy shopping.

 

[armylifer]

You are going to find that an FEL will be indispensable once you have it and use it. There is another thing that you may not know about the BX1850. The plastic fenders are prone to breaking and new fenders are very expensive, if you can get them at all. I don't think that you will be happy with the BX1850 at all.

If I were you, I would buy the 2660 and make an offer on the auger, if you really need or want it. You probably will end up much happier that way.

 

[The Evil Twin]

Finding a used auger is going to be easier than a used loader. A new auger will be cheaper. You'll probably use the loader more than the auger.
Just my nickle.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

First don't shorten the model names, it's a BX2660 and a BX1850.

Second get a loader, without it, it's a lawn mower.

The BX2660 is an OK model, but you would be much better off getting a newer BX2380, or BX2680
There have been a lot of improvements over older models.
Or even better find a B2650, that is a much better property tractor.
There are huge benefits to having and SSQA loader, that has the ability to switch attachments quickly.
You could also get a SSQA hydraulic Post hole digger, which is FAR superior and easier to use than a PTO auger, it also has reverse where the PTO models do not.
With an SSQA Loader you could swap from bucket to, blade, to Grapple with the flip of two levers.

For the driveway maintenance get a land plane.

 

[TheOldHokie]

We're shopping for equipment for our newly purchased 5 acre home and could use suggestions. I've considered starting with a separate mower, maybe zero-turn, but they all seem disposable these days. Hoping tractor versions will last. I've found both an 1850 and 2660 with low hours. The 2660 has a loader, the 1850 an auger. Both have MMM.

Work to do:
Residence lawn mowing about 1.25 acres with some landscaping
Field mowing, about 1.5 acres.
1/4 acre tiller
Hillside trees/scrub about 1 acre.
Dragging the occasional debris
150 or so post holes/PTO auger.
100 yards of gravel driveway, blade or box.
Shed pad prep very mild excavation.p
A PTO generator would be nice but these are both probably too small.

I come from antique, primitive tractors on larger plots, so both of these seem pretty new to me if tiny. I'm most concerned with durability and not under-buying on power. Again, any pointers will be very welcome. Thanks!

I was in your exact position 35 years ago. Heres my story.

I started with a Ford 9N (cheap and the class I was accustomed to) with back blade and a Craftsman lawn tractor. Quickly realized it was not getting the job done so two years later I added a B7200 with loader. The B7200 quickly became the go to machine and I ditched the lawn tractor and bought a 3pt mower and small self propelled walk behind. Fifteen years later I added a Kubota garden tractor with 60" MMM. Four years ago I added a L3901 with bigger loader and immediatrly regretted not doing that many many years earlier.

So my assessment is the BX is a very nice and super heavy duty 4WD diesel garden tractor - wish I had bought one instead of my 2WD G2160.

The 37HP L3901 is the original 9N class machine I wanted and needed but vastly more capable and user friendly.

My B7200 is now a bedraggled, beat down, and lonely lost middle child that sits and watches the others do the jobs it used to.

The 9N and its 8N cousin that sneaked in unannounced one day are nostalgic and cherished reminders of my youth that are living out their old age in the comfort of my heated shop..

You are embarking on a similar journey. What end of the tractor spectrum do you want to start at? If new construction, lot prep, and a lot of fence building my advice today would be the 9N/8N/L3901 end and work down. It will make your journey easier than mine.

Dan

 

[DavidSO]

Great stuff. Thanks all. I'm leaning towards the bx2660 for the loader, but it is $3k more. Pretty much what a bx loader would cost? Its mower deck is a 54" vs the bx1850's 48". 650hrs vs the bx1850s 200. I'm still on the lookout for a good stand-alone mower if I should be so lucky. That would make it much easier to maintain the residential lawn without ag tire divots.

 

[skeets]

Just MHO, if you can swing it, a BX 2680, with what you think you might need. Post holes unless you are going to a gazillion of them, rent one. A FEL yep with the ssqa check, a 60 inch drive over deck check, filled rear tires check. Now I say new, because the 50 and 60 series and good machines but it is getting harder each year to find stuff for them like FEL and MMM should you need it or parts. My little BX 2360 has done more than I ever thought it would do and it has done some big jobs, with that said, it will do it but not as fast as a big tractor. The 60 inch deck will do everything you want, mine has been used on wild roses, wild grape vines, taken out of the trees of course ,small sticks and branches wild black berry bushes. And the BX has pulled more than a few deer out of the woods. Spend you money wisely, if you can go new, do it, the up front cost of getting everything you need along with a warranty will out weigh the cost difference in the end and not raise the payments but a couple bucks. Again just MHO

 

[DavidSO]

Dan

My last tractor was my grandfather's 9N, but my brother has that now. I've been tempted to grab another but space is more of a premium here on 5 acres vs. 100s.

I nearly bought an old B7100 but it would have been a project, and our garage/shop won't be up before spring.

The hunt continues!

David

 

[armylifer]

Great stuff. Thanks all. I'm leaning towards the bx2660 for the loader, but it is $3k more. Pretty much what a bx loader would cost? Its mower deck is a 54" vs the bx1850's 48". 650hrs vs the bx1850s 200. I'm still on the lookout for a good stand-alone mower if I should be so lucky. That would make it much easier to maintain the residential lawn without ag tire divots.

650 hours is just broke in. I have a little more than 2000 hours on my BX1860 and it is still going strong. If maintained properly these engines will last many years/hours of use. As for tire, you can change out the ag tires for turf tires if that is what you want to do. Buy the tires from the Kubota dealer Whole Goods (Sales Dept) and they come already on new rims, for much less than you can get them almost anywhere else. Get a quote for tires from your Kubota dealer Sales Department and you will be surprised at how inexpensive they are compared to anywhere else.

 

[check 6]

For what it’s worth: I started with a BX moved up to a BX with back hoe ( limited flexibility) moved up to a cabbed B very top heavy . Upgraded again to a Grand L cabbed great tractor, very stable but could not get into many tight places. Downsized to a BX 2680 and have not looked back. I have a third function, a grapple, front bucket , box blade and airator for it.
on a previous tractor I had a middle mower but I now have a zero turn 60” Kubota mower that does great and is more flexible. Back to the backhoe my subcompact Kubota excavator serves all my needs and is much more flexible than a tractor mounted backhoe. At 81 I have found that a one implement does everything is a trade off an the jobbecomes harder a dedicated tractor and dedicated mower will serve you well for many years

 

[The Evil Twin]

Great stuff. Thanks all. I'm leaning towards the bx2660 for the loader, but it is $3k more. Pretty much what a bx loader would cost? Its mower deck is a 54" vs the bx1850's 48". 650hrs vs the bx1850s 200. I'm still on the lookout for a good stand-alone mower if I should be so lucky. That would make it much easier to maintain the residential lawn without ag tire divots.

You do not want to mow with those tires.

 

[DavidSO]

You do not want to mow with those tires.

Ag tires? Right. I've done that late when everything is dry but the rest of the year may as well drag a plow. The two BXs have turf tires. I meant to ask, how would industrial tires do for mowing? They seem much less aggressive, like for gravel and pavement. Maybe ok on lawn near max pressure?

 

[DavidSO]

Buy the tires from the Kubota dealer Whole Goods (Sales Dept) ... Get a quote for tires from your Kubota dealer Sales Department and you will be surprised at how inexpensive they are compared to anywhere else.

This is gold. Thanks!

 

[TheOldHokie]

Ag tires? Right. I've done that late when everything is dry but the rest of the year may as well drag a plow. The two BXs have turf tires. I meant to ask, how would industrial tires do for mowing? They seem much less aggressive, like for gravel and pavement. Maybe ok on lawn near max pressure?

I have excellent drainage and no complaints with R4s on a B7200. For reference my lawn maintenace goal is a golf course fairway manicure.

I have to be a bit more judicous in my use of the bigger and heavier l3901. in 4WD the fronts will mark things up on tight turns. Nothing horrible - grows back in a week or so.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Dan

My last tractor was my grandfather's 9N, but my brother has that now. I've been tempted to grab another but space is more of a premium here on 5 acres vs. 100s.

I nearly bought an old B7100 but it would have been a project, and our garage/shop won't be up before spring.

The hunt continues!

David

I was most definitly not suggesting a Ford N series. I was suggesting somthing like a bigger B or standard L. I think you will be a lot happier with a small utility tractor rarher than a lawn mower on steroids. If you need a lawn mower augment that with a cheap disposable box store lawn tractor.

Dan

 

[PaulL]

Of the two you're looking at, the BX2660 with loader is definitely the better choice. And swap the tires for something suitable for lawns. Taking the MMM off is not as hard as people make out, and is something that goes quickly with practice. On my B I'm 1 minute off, 2 minutes on. A 3ph mower is not much faster.

I personally think your use would be better with a B. A B2601 is plenty, a B2650 better. The extra ground clearance is a big bonus, and the MMM deck is a bit easier to remove than the BX (more height, and you can drive over it).

The post holes sound like a one time job. I agree, you'll do it in a couple days with a rented machine, and be way happier than messing around with an auger. The BX 3ph is quite limited in height and therefore range of motion, it's not ideal for an auger. Augers are also not favoured in my part of the world for post holes any more. They're relatively dangerous, and they make a big hole that you have to back fill. Most guys have a post banger that hammers them in. Depends on your soil I guess, but they don't get off the machine at all. With an auger you can make holes fast, but you've still got to put the post in and then ram the soil around it if you don't want to be back straightening the post later. It's pretty hard work if you're doing 150. Guy with a machine would do all that in a couple days.

I think a B would do driveway and property maintenance better, and the mower deck is quite a bit heavier duty (and therefore doesn't mind mowing pasture quite as much). I give mine a hard time and it doesn't mind.

I keep looking at a PTO generator. In my part of the world a nice small Honda generator is a fraction of the price, starts every time, has nice load following characteristics, and as someone else said, means you can use the tractor while the generator is running. Depends if this is genuine emergency/short term only, or a common occurrence. A PTO generator will use a lot less fuel, and ultimately small gas engines do go bad. But a Honda will go bad after 10-15 years, for the price they cost you can just buy a new one.

For lawn mowing, I see a lot of people recommending cheap box store mowers. I don't like cheap mowers, they annoy me. I had an expensive gas mower, and the HST in it gave up the ghost. I like mowing with my Kubota. Sure, the mower deck may have cost more than a whole cheap mower. But I'm happy driving my Kubota, and the Kubota plus deck will outlast about 5 cheap mowers.

 

[The Evil Twin]

Ag tires? Right. I've done that late when everything is dry but the rest of the year may as well drag a plow. The two BXs have turf tires. I meant to ask, how would industrial tires do for mowing? They seem much less aggressive, like for gravel and pavement. Maybe ok on lawn near max pressure?

My R4s don't tear my lawn up. They do leave impressions when it's damp. A friend has R1 on his JD and they are pretty hard on the turf. Especially when turning. Soil type does make a difference, but I still think R1s will be to aggressive for those that like a manicured lawn.