BX Snow Cab

[reamer]

For "fun" I rebuild old Ford trucks, latest a 48' F-8, a 1976 Bronco, and latest is a '86 F-150 4x4. Got the welder and a plasma cutter, this could be "fun"
If I can figure out how to post pictures (this site wants me to specify a URL)
Ill post...

 

[reamer]

Hi Ping
Question: where is your fuel cap? inside the cab, or out side?

Do you have and detailed shots of how the cab is sealed around the 3-pt hitch area?
Thanks
Reamer

 

[Russell King]

If I can figure out how to post pictures (this site wants me to specify a URL) Ill post...

There is a sticky thread at the top of one forum that tells how to post pictures. You can download from your local drive or link to a photo sharing site. The download process is better since the photo ends up on this site and won’t disappear if you cancel your membership or what ever with the posting site.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Ping]

reamer,
Fuel cap is inside the cab. Area above top link is closed off with a sheet metal panel. The remainder of the gaps between the cab exterior and tractor are filled in with LDPE. The LDPE filler pieces lay on top of the cab 1x1 tubing frame and the rear fenders and are held in with magnets.
Hope this helps and let me know if you need any other pictures.
I'm just about finished with the heater portion and hope to get pictures up later this week.
Regards,

 

[reamer]

Hi Ping

The top of the cab frame and the top of the windshield frame, are they larger than the overall 1" x 1", maybe a 1" x 2" for those?

What did you use for a wiper motor?

The door skins, do they overlap the cab wall sheet metal? by roughly how much?

Big question is the hinge side of the door skins, they can not overlap the wall skin correct? how to seal the hinge edge?...

I made up some rough sketches for my BX1500, I came up with @ 122 feet of 1"x1" for the skeleton and door frames.....

I was thinking of framing the left wall so the fuel filler neck will be outside, (for ease of filling)……

Thanks
Reamer

 

[Ping]

Cab frame at top is 1x2 tubing everywhere except above the tall windows behind the doors which are 1x1.
The windshield top rail is also 1x2 tubing and i added another 1x2 piece to accommodate the wiper motor mount.
You are correct, on the hinge side the panel can not extend beyond the tubing frame. On the other 3 sides it extends about 7/8". This dimension wasn***8217;t as important as actually looking 'right'. Also note that the front 'A' pillars are a composite of 1x1 and 1/2x1/2 tubing welded together to 'appear' to be 1 1/2 x 1 tubing. It's not readily noticeable but, there's a 1/2 x 1/2" tunnel I created to act as a wire chase along each pillar.
Gasketing on the hinge side is either 'V-Fold' plastic. D-Shape foam was used above the front and rear windows.
Wiper motor is a Marinco MRV and the pantograph arm a Marinco deluxe adjustable SS unit.
I bought full sticks of tubing; 140' of 1x1 and 20' of 1x2. I think I have at least a full stick of 1x1 left over and part of the 1x2.
Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.
AND, don't forget to post pictures when you start your cab!
Regards

 

[reamer]

Hi Ping
What did you use for the door hinges, I was looking around at the local hardware store but nothing other than regular hinges...
Thanks

 

[reamer]

And while on the heater topic, does anyone make a quick-disconnect for coolant where it would seal off the coolant from leaking? Acting like the hydraulic quick-disconnect?

 

[chim]

And while on the heater topic, does anyone make a quick-disconnect for coolant where it would seal off the coolant from leaking? Acting like the hydraulic quick-disconnect?

I'm sure Swagelok does. May be a little pricey, but you don't need a dozen.

 

[Ping]

Hi Ping
What did you use for the door hinges, I was looking around at the local hardware store but nothing other than regular hinges...
Thanks

Reamer,
I just used standard interior door hinges, with one of the half knuckles removed. I had these laying around, so I used them instead of buying the weld on - lift off variety. Cab frame is on the left, door frame on the right. See attached.

 

[Ping]

I'm sure Swagelok does. May be a little pricey, but you don't need a dozen.

I was considering Parker Moldmate series of quick coupler for my application. Upon further research, I opted for standard 45degree flare fittings. They don't provide the quick disconnect or checked flow that the quick couplers do, but they don't restrict the flow nearly as much, either at the low pressure your coolant system runs at.
Regards.

 

[Ping]

Bringing On The Heat:
Well, I got tired of waiting on my brass SAE fittings to show up, so I buttoned things up as best I could in order to be able to enjoy heat for any future snow cleanup this winter. I'll install said fittings and hard plumb the heater lines inside the cab when I pull the cab this spring. I've read that if a hose burst, the hot coolant spraying all over you may not be the most pleasant experience! I'll risk it for another couple months and fix it over the summer.
I did take the opportunity to warm the tractor up and 'play' for about 45 minutes. Outside temp was in the high 20's but, I was impressed with the amount of heat these little heaters put out. I do believe the days of insulated bibs, coat, hat, gloves are over. And, the grand daughter seemed to approve of my heated cab as well!
Attached are pictures of how I cobbled the plumbing together.
Hope you enjoy.

 

[bearbait]

Nicely done! Great looking welds and your grand daughter what a cutie!! Enjoy the heat my friend.

 

[Ping]

Bearbait,
Thanks!
I guess I don't do half bad afterall, considering I can't half see to weld anymore. Just bout have to stick my nose in the puddle if you know what I mean.
That little stinker (2 1/2yo) is definitely a 'grandma's girl' except the 10-15 minutes she'll spend on 'her tractor' when the kids visit.
Stay warm up there!
Regards.

 

[chim]

Hi Ping
What did you use for the door hinges, I was looking around at the local hardware store but nothing other than regular hinges...
Thanks

Not Ping, but another way to skin that cat. I used short pieces of 1/4" pipe. The lower piece of pipe is welded to the cab frame and has a captive 1/4" rod. The top piece of the hinge is welded to the door frame and slides down over the pins. Easy on and off (especially if the pins are different lengths). Door latches are stainless paddles like they use on truck utility bodies.

I revised the inside of the latch after the attached picture. It involved sleeving the short piece of threaded rod to make it stiffer.

 

[Ping]

Chim,
That's the exact path I was heading down, until realized I hadn't accounted for a catch surface on the frame. Thank goodness my 'better half' provided me with the magnetic catch solution. Guess I'll have to find a use for my toolbox latches on a future project.
Regards

 

[reamer]

Thanks Chim, Ping

I going with "flag" hinges, for quick on and off doors.
Also going to do a complete "removable" rear window, using Ping's idea of magnets, But ill use a magnetic ribbon to hold in in and act like the gasket.

But the front window will be fixed....

 

[Ping]

Reamer,
Note that my front and rear windows are held closed with a friction knob, see attached. Only the doors are held closed with rare earth permanent magnets.
Regards.

 

[reamer]

Hi Ping
About how much did you pitch in the windshield?
about how much on the sides?
It has a nice visual look...…
Thanks
Reamer

 

[Ping]

Reamer,
Sides angle in about 3" at the top ~3degrees. The front is 5" narrower than the back. Windshield lays back at a 13 degree angle which allows me to reach the switches from the seat with my T-Rex arms.
I think any amount will provide a pleasing appearance and not end up looking like a refrigerator box. Take a look at Chim's cab build, he really sloped the sides in on his and it really fits his tractor.
Good luck, we expect to see pictures
Regards