Brake-In RPM's for First 50 Hours?

Stitchit1

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Jul 27, 2014
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Cheboygan, Mi
I'm getting my L3200 delivered to me today! I have read in the manual that it says to "NOT" run @ full throttle for the first 50 hours...... This may seem like a crazy question, but do you all recommend not running full throttle for the first 50 hours? I have some work to do with it asap, and I was always under the assumption that full throttle allows the engine to actually work easier than less than full?

Thank You,

Chris
 

chim

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Jan 19, 2013
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Although there may be someone on the board with more knowledge than the engineers who designed your tractor, it may be difficult to separate them from those who don't have a clue. Given the choice between following what is recommended by Kubota or listening to someone who isn't responsible for giving incorrect advice, I'd go with Kubota.
 

GWD

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On the other hand, you don't want to baby it either.

My dealer told me a story about a guy that ran his new tractor at gentle RPMs. Then came back and complained that it was blowing smoke. The Kubota rep told him to run the engine at full load and full throttle. The smoking went away within a few more hours on the engine.

Run it at different RPMs when under load. If you do go to WOT then limit it to just a short time and not under a heavy load.
 

Billdog350

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Kubota L3710 HST,L2230A QT,forks,Takeuchi TB125, 60" Luck Now pto Snowblower
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Clearances are especially tight for the first break in. There are tiny left over machining bits flying around inside your motor until you change your break in oil and filter. A tight new motor will generate more heat, galling bearings and other friction surfaces.

Break in like Kubota says, if your tractor is a max 3000rpm...don't exceed say 2200 or so until you hit the magic 50. Don't idle too much, make sure to load/lug it a LITTLE to ensure you seat your rings and temper the internal metals. You can get a lot of work done at 2200 rpm, just not quite as fast as max rpm.

Once you've changed your oil and filter @50....make SURE to run it up to max RPM occasionally and under mild load....again to ensure proper seating of rings and temper internals. Enjoy your machine, it will likely outlast you!
 

ShaunRH

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L3200
May 14, 2014
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Most of the time anything over 2400 is a waste of fuel on a diesel engine. Your max efficiencies are had at 2100-2400, so going wide open is unnecessary even after the engine is broken in. Puttering around sub 1800 is also not really efficient unless you're waiting for something and you are going down to low idle to save fuel.

If you have a quick need for power, use the throttle pedal to bring it up and let it back down. Some guys use that pedal for everything but it's not my technique.

I use the throttle lever to set the bottom end 'work' RPM which is the normal RPM for whatever I'm doing, and then use the pedal throttle to blip up the RPM's if I'm demanding something from the engine, then release it and go back down to the work RPM's.

Doing that technique you are varying the RPM of the tractor during break in and never on it hard enough to worry about. My L3200 was happy with the technique, so at least she hasn't complained to me... yet... :D
 

Stitchit1

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Jul 27, 2014
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Cheboygan, Mi
Thanks guys for the advice!

Shaun, sorry, but can you explain the throttle pedal more if you don't mind? I'm confused as to what you are referring to.

Thank you,

Chris
 

ShaunRH

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L3200
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If you have the same L32000 as I have... there is a little pedal on the floor board that if you push it down, the motor revs up. It's an additional throttle but unlike the main 'fixed' throttle it is spring return so it goes back down to the main throttle setting.

I don't have a picture of it but it is in your owners manual...
 

Stitchit1

Member
Jul 27, 2014
170
2
18
Cheboygan, Mi
Clearances are especially tight for the first break in. There are tiny left over machining bits flying around inside your motor until you change your break in oil and filter. A tight new motor will generate more heat, galling bearings and other friction surfaces.

Break in like Kubota says, if your tractor is a max 3000rpm...don't exceed say 2200 or so until you hit the magic 50. Don't idle too much, make sure to load/lug it a LITTLE to ensure you seat your rings and temper the internal metals. You can get a lot of work done at 2200 rpm, just not quite as fast as max rpm.

Once you've changed your oil and filter @50....make SURE to run it up to max RPM occasionally and under mild load....again to ensure proper seating of rings and temper internals. Enjoy your machine, it will likely outlast you!

Billdog, are you saying that lug means wide open throttle? Sorry, I didn't understand. I've got a few hours on it now. Lol. Been doing as you and the others have suggested , lower rpms.

Thank You,

Chris
 

85Hokie

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Bedford - VA
I'm getting my L3200 delivered to me today! I have read in the manual that it says to "NOT" run @ full throttle for the first 50 hours...... This may seem like a crazy question, but do you all recommend not running full throttle for the first 50 hours? I have some work to do with it asap, and I was always under the assumption that full throttle allows the engine to actually work easier than less than full?

Thank You,

Chris
Full throttle and wide ass open are different on different engines......
like the rest, take it easy at first (you will screw up less too:D) vary your engine speed as everyone said......

Not sure on your dash - but the pto speed should be shown....that being about 90% of WOT......

I will tell you that limping around is not good for the pump and other parts of the hydraulic systems, those speeds ( once broken in) should be used to max the efficiency of the engine and the pumps.

Stay in the low 2000's and vary........I really do not think you will have any problems ;)
 

Wrencher2423

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Apr 27, 2014
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I specifically asked my dealer that question when I purchased my bx back in May he said don't worry about the Rpms to much the sweet spot for efficiently was 2200-2400 Rpms I have 35 hours on mine and vary the throttle and it seems fine have not gone over 3200 or so. I run a 47 inch finish mower off the rear pto and 540 Rpms are at around the 3000 mark on the bx . Take it for what's it's worth
 

Tooljunkie

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To lug an engine is to put it under load at low to moderate rpms. I rarely run anything at wide open throttle, i think its a waste of fuel and hard on implements. Especially anything pto operated,like a backhoe for instance, may make things move faster but not any more powerful.
 

blueweezer

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Aug 7, 2014
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greenfield ohio
just signed up and saw the exact discussion I was looking for..Taking delivery today on my new mx5100 HST FWD I need to bush hog several acres of tall pasture. Dry but heavy ragweed, etc. Any thoughts on rpm,speed, etc? I want this machine to outlive me. Thanks
 

Baltimoremike

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Jan 4, 2013
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Maryland
I've also go a new L3200 and have a follow up question. PTO rmp's are about 2550, the rated rpm's are 2800, but I believe full throttle would be about 3100-3200 based on the tach. The manual does not indicate. DO I need to base my break in rpm's off full throttle, or rated rmp's? I've been using a rear finish mower and running between about 2100-2500 rpm's which I believe should be fine.
 

85Hokie

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I've also go a new L3200 and have a follow up question. PTO rmp's are about 2550, the rated rpm's are 2800, but I believe full throttle would be about 3100-3200 based on the tach. The manual does not indicate. DO I need to base my break in rpm's off full throttle, or rated rmp's? I've been using a rear finish mower and running between about 2100-2500 rpm's which I believe should be fine.
I think you are on the money!
 

jasonTDI

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2670
May 31, 2014
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Dunn, WI
Billdog, are you saying that lug means wide open throttle? Sorry, I didn't understand. I've got a few hours on it now. Lol. Been doing as you and the others have suggested , lower rpms.

Thank You,

Chris
Lug means working it super hard at low RPM.

If yours has a 3000 rpm max you'll be fine to use 2700 or so after 8-10 hours. By then they aren't going to be hurt from the use. If you are using a MM Mower the revs need to be up to mow. Otherwise they cut like crap.

Don't baby the engine. They definitely don't like it. I AM a master diesel engine tech.
 

kc8fbl

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2014 L3200 HST FEL, 1949 Minneapolis-Moline R
Aug 23, 2012
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Gobles, MI
just signed up and saw the exact discussion I was looking for..Taking delivery today on my new mx5100 HST FWD I need to bush hog several acres of tall pasture. Dry but heavy ragweed, etc. Any thoughts on rpm,speed, etc? I want this machine to outlive me. Thanks

I run mine about 2200-2400 RPM's. I don't go over the yellow mark on the gauge which is where the 540 speed is obtained. Dealer told me as long as I don't go over that mark, things should be fine.
 
Last edited:

dmanlyr

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L3200, Hustler Super Z
May 30, 2012
330
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0
Graham, WA
I've also go a new L3200 and have a follow up question. PTO rmp's are about 2550, the rated rpm's are 2800, but I believe full throttle would be about 3100-3200 based on the tach. The manual does not indicate. DO I need to base my break in rpm's off full throttle, or rated rmp's? I've been using a rear finish mower and running between about 2100-2500 rpm's which I believe should be fine.
These engines are governed. The high idle should not exceed the book value.

A high idle in diesel talk is opening the throttle wide open without any load on the engine. Doing this and checking the high idle rpm's against the book value is part of a professional diesel tune up.

If it is too low or too high, then the full throttle stop on the injection pump will need to be adjusted.

Normal diesel operating rpm on equipment, boats and other industrial uses is maximum rated rpm, less 10% as a rule of thumb. So if the engine is rated at 2800 rpm (and it was determined that engine was capable and performing at the book high idle value as noted in the above paragraph), then subtract 10% from that value to get the recommended maximum day in day out rpm. Comes out at 2520 rpm, which is pretty close to where Kubota set the engine rpm to run the PTO at 540 rpm.

Sometimes the manufactures will play with these numbers a bit, lighter duty / and or / occasional use equipment where it is not expected that a lot of operating hours or a higher wear rate is acceptable will encroach on that rule of thumb 10% (that way the manufacture can use a lighter and cheaper engine), conversely heavily loaded equipment may have a 20% factor. You actually have to look at the rating - IE Light duty, medium duty and heavy duty to get the black and white numbers, as well as look at the maximum sustained rpm, verses the absolute short term maximum rpm.

David
 

TripleR

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Sep 16, 2011
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38
SE Missouri
Pretty much what everyone else said and I've broken in several I don't baby them, work them hard, occasionally vary RPM and do a cool down cycle every two or three hours of steady operation; essentially follow the manual.