blew a hole in the side of the block

[joesmith123]

L295DT

hole in the side of the block

youtube.com

This is a video of hole in the block

Ok here's a picture of the hole in the block

I was running L295DT leveling land, when engine exploded, spilled oil all over the ground etc.

Ok here's a parts tractor that has a good block/other parts that are needed for the fix

ok here's up close of the spare block...

Rip to the machine, it was my fault.

I know it will take me months to fix this but generally speaking -

What are the steps I will be taking to resolve this issue? I know its major surgery...

The goal is to take both engines out, and make one good solid engine. Go through it completely and fix that vital parts.

How hard is it lift the engines out, make one good one, and put back in the good one?

 

[Motion]

Unless you have access to a machine shop, I'd consider having a qualified rebuild shop go through the engine, at least you'd know the cost going in, also check what a factory rebuilt would cost. Mixing parts and pieces never works out well. Rework the head as required, take a cut on the flywheel, new pressure plate and release bearing. Pending hours, it may be time to go through the injectors and pump. Once everything is ready spilt the tractor and go to work. You don't lift the engine out, you spilt the tractor, although not a hard job it needs to be done correctly and sometimes requires special tools to ensure proper disassembly/reassembly. Good luck

 

[mikester]

L295DT
How hard is it lift the engines out, make one good one, and put back in the good one?

If you have a lot of spare time and cash burning a hole in your pocket and enjoy rebuilding antiques with hard to find parts it will be a walk in the park for you.

I'm not nostalgic so I'd be more inclined to scrap it and buy a new work machine.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

It's not 'hard', just a LOT of steps, many of which you get to do twice.
You already KNOW it'll take a lot of time, the 'trick' is to do it in 'stages' and be organized !
First step is to pressure wash both tractors really ,really good. 100% of both of them. The goal is to be able to see CLEAN nuts, bolts,parts...
2nd step. Now while they're drip drying, clean out the entire double car garage and start collecting materials needed to 'split' the tractors. SOLID wood blocks for support,NOT hollow cinder blocks ! Clean off the workbench,better yet build a 2nd one. That'll keep the 'donor' parts separate from the 'original' ones !

I'd remove and store the loader outside,that way both tractors are the 'same' to work on.
Hopefully you've got the WSM(WorkShopManual), if not get one.As an alternative, download pages from the online parts website they'll give you an idea where stuff is and what it's called.
Take LOTS of pictures , from all sides, different angles. It'll help when reassembling ! Something as simple as a clip upside down can cause you a lot of grief and loss of hair.

Yes it is a challenge but done in small steps, you CAN do it. When you get to a 'frustrating' point, put down the tools, close the garage door and go back tomorrow. Treat the 'project' as a 'hobby', something to do.....

As for the hole in the block....others have simple had the hole 'filled and patched'. It's not under any real 'pressure'. You might get lucky and just need a new conrod.bearing and cap though it'd be a good idea to look at the rest of the engine's 'bottom end' as it's 40 years old. How 'deep' a rebuild depends on the damage, what time you have, money in the wallet,......

Maybe check for rebuilt engines or someone local that can do that for you ? In my case, engine guy wanted $5K CDN to rebuild and that was AFTER I pulled the engine. That was 10 years ago, didn't do it, so what if forklift burns a 'little' extra oil ?

 

[OrangePower]

Honestly, I would leave the block in and pull the head and pan. Check the crank for scoring. if the crank is just dinged, file the burr off, grab a new rod, pull the head and just replace the piston and all the rod/crank bearings. Then, get the piece of metal that cracked off, stitch it back on, goop the rest of the crack with silicon and let her eat.

 

[D2Cat]

Maybe just use the doner engine as it is. If that engine is not in usable condition and does require getting into, either you have to be looking for a project, or just sell both tractors and find something that suits your needs. It will be less expensive!

 

[joesmith123]

Unless you have access to a machine shop, I'd consider having a qualified rebuild shop go through the engine, at least you'd know the cost going in, also check what a factory rebuilt would cost. Mixing parts and pieces never works out well. Rework the head as required, take a cut on the flywheel, new pressure plate and release bearing. Pending hours, it may be time to go through the injectors and pump. Once everything is ready spilt the tractor and go to work. You don't lift the engine out, you spilt the tractor, although not a hard job it needs to be done correctly and sometimes requires special tools to ensure proper disassembly/reassembly. Good luck

No access to machine shop, I need to fix it right there where they sit

Factory rebuilt: alibaba had them complete assemblies for about 5000 shipped, now they dont have them, do do have the parts though

Split the tractor: I was hoping this wasnt necessary, but i'm listening

 

[joesmith123]

If you have a lot of spare time and cash burning a hole in your pocket and enjoy rebuilding antiques with hard to find parts it will be a walk in the park for you.

I'm not nostalgic so I'd be more inclined to scrap it and buy a new work machine.

Buying anything "new" is 10-15 thousand

Any backhoe for 7000 or less is gonna need major work

I think I do have to fix it

 

[fried1765]

Buying anything "new" is 10-15 thousand

Any backhoe for 7000 or less is gonna need major work

I think I do have to fix it

Good luck!

 

[joesmith123]

It's not 'hard', just a LOT of steps, many of which you get to do twice.
You already KNOW it'll take a lot of time, the 'trick' is to do it in 'stages' and be organized !
First step is to pressure wash both tractors really ,really good. 100% of both of them. The goal is to be able to see CLEAN nuts, bolts,parts...
2nd step. Now while they're drip drying, clean out the entire double car garage and start collecting materials needed to 'split' the tractors. SOLID wood blocks for support,NOT hollow cinder blocks ! Clean off the workbench,better yet build a 2nd one. That'll keep the 'donor' parts separate from the 'original' ones !

I'd remove and store the loader outside,that way both tractors are the 'same' to work on.
Hopefully you've got the WSM(WorkShopManual), if not get one.As an alternative, download pages from the online parts website they'll give you an idea where stuff is and what it's called.
Take LOTS of pictures , from all sides, different angles. It'll help when reassembling ! Something as simple as a clip upside down can cause you a lot of grief and loss of hair.

Yes it is a challenge but done in small steps, you CAN do it. When you get to a 'frustrating' point, put down the tools, close the garage door and go back tomorrow. Treat the 'project' as a 'hobby', something to do.....

As for the hole in the block....others have simple had the hole 'filled and patched'. It's not under any real 'pressure'. You might get lucky and just need a new conrod.bearing and cap though it'd be a good idea to look at the rest of the engine's 'bottom end' as it's 40 years old. How 'deep' a rebuild depends on the damage, what time you have, money in the wallet,......

Maybe check for rebuilt engines or someone local that can do that for you ? In my case, engine guy wanted $5K CDN to rebuild and that was AFTER I pulled the engine. That was 10 years ago, didn't do it, so what if forklift burns a 'little' extra oil ?

Yes this is the exact reply I was imagining

"Clean out the entire double garage" - Yes, I will somehow make a shaded area with hard ground where I can completely disassemble them

Take the bucket off: Yes, even though it took me days of putting it on using no special tools

Treat it as a hobby: Yes I will setup the area, work on it at night and any free time, but dont count on it or let it frustrate me

"Rebuilt engines or anything local": This is a huge problem nowadays. Even if I found someone that can rebuild the engine, it about $800 just to ship the engine to someone one way. Anybody "local" that is affordable is just gonna be a junkie and play with me and try milk me for money. The cost of an actual person to help is infinite nowadays. IE, I somehow have to do the entire job myself

 

[OrangePower]

Oh, wait..... Is that a crack under the starter wire to the casted hump or just a casting line? If it is a perfect hole with no other cracks, proceed my way, if not, you need a new block, min....... Well, you could try to stitch that too, but, only if you have time to play and another tractor to use in the meantime in case it doesnt hold.

 

[joesmith123]

Honestly, I would leave the block in and pull the head and pan. Check the crank for scoring. if the crank is just dinged, file the burr off, grab a new rod, pull the head and just replace the piston and all the rod/crank bearings. Then, get the piece of metal that cracked off, stitch it back on, goop the rest of the crack with silicon and let her eat.

Wow interesting response

I didn't know you can just patch it up and keep going, I was thinking it does have to pressure tight

I did save the pieces that broke off

"Pull the head and pan": take off the top of the engine, and the bottom part, right?

This response is not requiring me to split the tractor, correct?

 

[joesmith123]

Maybe just use the doner engine as it is. If that engine is not in usable condition and does require getting into, either you have to be looking for a project, or just sell both tractors and find something that suits your needs. It will be less expensive!

Yes, I did get the spare engine to run, but it has leaks all over

Not selling them both because anything on the market is overpriced nowadays

 

[joesmith123]

Oh, wait..... Is that a crack under the starter wire to the casted hump or just a casting line? If it is a perfect hole with no other cracks, proceed my way, if not, you need a new block, min....... Well, you could try to stitch that too, but, only if you have time to play and another tractor to use in the meantime in case it doesnt hold.

Look at the video, it has nothing to do with the starter, it is behind the starter, the picture is not as good as the video

There are no other cracks beside the hole

 

[OrangePower]

Wow interesting response

I didn't know you can just patch it up and keep going, I was thinking it does have to pressure tight

I did save the pieces that broke off

"Pull the head and pan": take off the top of the engine, and the bottom part, right?

This response is not requiring me to split the tractor, correct?

As long as there is not any other cracks, the wall isnt a "major" structural part. It all helps to hold the engine together, but not so much there. Your main issue is keeping the oil in. Cast iron is a little tricky to weld, but can be done. Again, your not welding it back in for structural rigidity, just to keep the metal from blowing out. If you can find a good welder and a decent price, just have him tack wld the peice back in. But of course, the rest of the engine, mainly the crank, will have to be salvageable, in place. If you have to replace the crank, you will have to pull the engine. Might as well grab another and not worry about it by that time.

Just keep an eye out for a good block, can just swap most parts.

""Pull the head and pan": take off the top of the engine, and the bottom part, right?" correct, as long as there is clearance,

Correct. Pull the head to get the piston and rod out once you pull the pan, to take the rod caps off, and, replace the other rod bearings and main bearings. Oh, and the one bad rod.

 

[OrangePower]

T

Look at the video, it has nothing to do with the starter, it is behind the starter, the picture is not as good as the video

There are no other cracks beside the hole

Then your on your way to being golden, lol. 1 down and 1 to go. Time to see how bad the crank is.

 

[joesmith123]

As long as there is not any other cracks, the wall isnt a "major" structural part. It all helps to hold the engine together, but not so much there. Your main issue is keeping the oil in. Cast iron is a little tricky to weld, but can be done. Again, your not welding it back in for structural rigidity, just to keep the metal from blowing out. If you can find a good welder and a decent price, just have him tack wld the peice back in. But of course, the rest of the engine, mainly the crank, will have to be salvageable, in place. If you have to replace the crank, you will have to pull the engine. Might as well grab another and not worry about it by that time.

Just keep an eye out for a good block, can just swap most parts.

""Pull the head and pan": take off the top of the engine, and the bottom part, right?" correct, as long as there is clearance,

Correct. Pull the head to get the piston and rod out once you pull the pan, to take the rod caps off, and, replace the other rod bearings and main bearings. Oh, and the one bad rod.

Another detail that might help: after it busted out the side of the engine, it was STILL running, I had to shut it off manually

But yes I do have that spare block and dont mind splitting the machines

 

[OrangePower]

Another detail that might help: after it busted out the side of the engine, it was STILL running, I had to shut it off manually

But yes I do have that spare block and dont mind splitting the machines

Well, then there is no other option than to reseal the donor motor and drop it in! Good luck with her.

 

[fried1765]

Yes, I did get the spare engine to run, but it has leaks all over

Not selling them both because anything on the market is overpriced nowadays

And.......you really think that prices will be coming down?
History tells us that the exact opposite will occur.

 

[mikester]

Buying anything "new" is 10-15 thousand

Any backhoe for 7000 or less is gonna need major work

I think I do have to fix it

Spend $5K to save a 40 year old tractor that might sell for $4K? No thanks, I'd part it out.