Barn / Garage / Shop -How did you select size?

shootem604

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Lifetime Member

Equipment
L245DT with Kubota (Arps Model 22) FEL and Kubota B/L4520B (Woods 650) BH
Apr 23, 2018
875
18
18
British Columbia
I selected the size based on the trusses and space available. I had 24' wide trusses on hand, and about 55' of open space. My shop is 24X54.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Jun 9, 2013
30,203
6,374
113
Sandpoint, ID
Wife is hinting now she wants t build on a chicken coup for layers to my building
Don't do that, it's not a good idea for many a reason, look at building her a chicken tractor, it's portable so it can be moved around for no waste build up and better locations per season, it's safe for the chickens, way better for their health!


All these photo's have raised another question. Pole barn, conventional stick build building or steel building? Pro's Con's, price difference? I'm seeing footers for some pole barns and others with the poles right down in the soil. The preservatives would probably prevent rot in my lifetime but on average, posts in soil last around what, 20-30yrs in the Midwest? Another question is on wind / snow load. Steeper pitch roof can solve the snow issue but is any one construction type better when it comes to standing up to wind?
The question of "Pole barn, conventional stick build building or steel building?" is really a matter of wants and what you like, they all run about the same to build.

4-12 or greater roof with steel roofing will hold up really well to snow and wind.

You have gotten a ton of good advice, I'll add or reaffirm some things:
14' ceilings
12' doors
Man doors front rear and sides (minimum 2' opposite ends) think ease of getting to things, and fire safety, the ones on sides are great if you do covered overhangs (awnings for storage).
Windows, good ones, no cheap single pane, natural light is always nice.
NO skylights or clear top panels on the walls, they don't hold up, they leak, and they are inefficient!
Roll up door (not like a home garage door), but a commercial roll up, get a good quality door that is insulated.
Concrete, fiber reinforced and 5000 PSI or greater, I did 7500 PSI, and it does make a difference.
I did floor drain gutters across both doors.

Also do a 4' sloped skirt into the shop will help tremendously with helping to keep water out and clearing will be much easier in the winter.

Consider shop space then covered awnings off the sides for bulk storage, as that will keep costs down yet get the greatest amount of covered storage.

Power, 200 amp or better, panel bigger than you think you need now.
Wiring for interior and exterior lights, outlets and, equipment like welders and other higher amp tools.

Water, and if your going to do work in it, at least a half bath a full bath with shower comes in handy, especially in an emergency (Mother in law visits, and you can hide in the shop for days comfortably!) :D
Build the room and all the water into an area that can be heated cheaply.
A good design has a clean secure heated space inside the shop for the expensive, freeze tolerant tools and supplies.

Consider hydronics in the slab for the heat, it's cheap to install now impossible to install later, but note, it's not quick heat so if you don't want to heat for a length of time consider other heating too.

And like everyone has said...Bigger is better!
 
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johnjk

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B3200 w/loader, Woods RC5 brush hog, 4' box blade, tooth bar, B1700 MMM,
Apr 13, 2017
1,461
1,268
113
West Mansfield, OH
I built a chicken tractor last fall and that is the game plan for meat birds this year. I Like some of the mobile coops for layers I see around my area and my preference is to build a mobile coop that I can move around the property and let them "free range" on the grass/bugs. I can move it close to the barn for winter and hook up heat lamps but yeah, I don't want them in the barn.

My pad will go in this spring when the pond is dug. I'm putting in about 3' of fill and letting it settle out till I build in 2021. Yes I like to plan and think things out. I live in clay country so it should settle in nicely to about 24" above grade. I plan on the built up area being at least 10' out on all sides of the building. This will allow me to grade a nice slope for easy maintenance.

I've been watching a bunch of R&R videos which have been answering a lot of questions. Appreciate the links and all the suggestions.
 

seanbarr

New member

Equipment
B7100DT (sold) - Branson 3520H
Feb 1, 2013
384
7
0
Deer Park, WA
Mine is a 36 x 48 which was the max the budget would allow. Try to consider two things...

Expansion - Leave some room for future expansion should your needs require later. Let your builder know about this possibility and he/she can work with you on options.

Heating - If you live in colder climates, put in O2 free per in the floor before the concrete goes in even if you have no plans for shop heat. Your next buyer WILL appreciate it if you don’t later. I have a combo, radiant heat set at 55° and a forced air wood stove that is used when I’m working inside.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Freeheeler

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Equipment
b2650 tlb
Aug 16, 2018
706
523
93
Knoxville, TN
As far as plans go, I just drew up what I wanted and the builder said "yeah, I can do that".
Mine is standard 2x6 walls construction on a 50x50 concrete slab. 2 stories, 4200 sq ft with 2 double wide 9'ft high garage doors and one man door. I really like how it came out because it's what I wanted, not just picked out of a group of plans. It works for me. You need to find out what works for you. Look at what you want, what you need, and how you want it laid out, then you can decide on how to construct it.