B7500 did I wreck my hub?

[Kayaker37]

Our Kubota is normally on gravel under overhang behind garage. Took the mower deck off, moved into garage to prepare for snowblower attachment, and I noticed the right rear wheel was leaning in.

After looking in the manual and online here, figured out both side clevis pins sheared off, left side was just slid over a little, bought clevis pins at the hardware store, managed to retighten the left wedge clamp.

Right side was slid all the way in, managed to slide out, install clevis pin, could not budge the bolt and nut on the clamps, although the clamp was loose. Brother in law who is a service tech at a car dealership came over and we got the six wheel lugs off, broke the socket on the last one. Wicked tight.

Slid the hub off. I'm pretty sure that hub is toast. Took picture of axle, assume that is ok? This has 33x12.5 wheels, dealer said hub is different depending on wheel size?

Should I get official Kubota hub, or are the ones on ebay fine, and will it fit my wheel/tire?

Thanks,
Paul

 

[85Hokie]

Looking at the axle.....it looks ok, I am assuming those holes are full of debris? The hubs on the other hand need some TLC.

More importantly - what does the bolt that holds the two locking wedges look like? I wonder if the faces of the wedges could be welded on and then reground flat. Thus building the surface back up.

Otherwise .....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/H6640-1730...hash=item28296d322e:m:mXj9dSwXqb1389HrfOv8cRg

 

[Kubota Newbie]

If you look close at his wedges in the photo they look decent. BUT, they are bottomed out against each other in the picture. If the wear is enough in the hub that they will not tighten enough to lock things down really good without bottoming out against each other then I would consider just shortening the small end on each wedge so that they will slide in further. We used to do that trick on the Chrysler cone type limited-slip units, the differential case would wear letting the cones bottom out then no posi-traction. We'd just machine .075 - .100 inch off the small end of the cone and put them back together. Worked like a charm!
In this case you'd have little to loose by trying it. The only possible problem I see is if the wear is so much that tightening the wedges that far causes misalignment of the pin hole.
The other option would be to clean it up good, slap it together and measure the clearance between axle and hub on the opposite side the wedges (without them tightened), then make a "v" shaped shim the right thickness (taking up 1/2 maybe a little more of the clearance) that would fit two flats on the axle (would have to fit axle flats VERY well) and slide it in before tightening everything up. That would be the better option if pin hole alignment is a problem.
Either way I think it could be salvaged. Not much to loose by trying except a little time.

 

[Kayaker37]

>Looking at the axle.....it looks ok, I am assuming those holes are full of debris? The hubs on the other hand need some TLC.

I had to go look, yes debris in the holes

>More importantly - what does the bolt that holds the two locking wedges look like?

Still can't free that up. The hub is sloppy on the axle.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/H6640-1730...hash=item28296d322e:m:mXj9dSwXqb1389HrfOv8cRg

I downloaded a parts book and the dealer confirmed the hub is part number:
6C040-17414 for which they want $142 I dont see this number on ebay
H6C10-17400 a kit for the wedges, which I see on ebay.

So is 6C040-17414 replaceable by H6640-17300? This tractor is a B7500HSD-F which I assume is hydrostatic transmission, four wheel drive?

 

[85Hokie]

Still can't free that up. The hub is sloppy on the axle.

[B7500HSD-F which I assume is hydrostatic transmission, four wheel drive?

IF the hub is sloppy and the bolt you cannot get free is tight (and I would assume it is!) Then the hub may be too worn to fix.

Kubota Newbie has a viable solution too. BUT you gonna have to get that bolt free! SOAK the hell out of it.....no WD40 aint gonna do it.......PB Blaster is the best easiest found - Kroil is fine too.....

but this is the best stuff....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CESDxCloCoQ

 

[Kubota Newbie]

Isn't it a through bolt (head and nut ends both exposed)? If so and it doesn't want to come loose just cut it off and get a new metric bolt to put in it.
The solution for the broken stud If it is a screw in like my M4500 is to take a nut a size bigger than the bolt shank and lay over it and weld the stud/bolt to the inside of the nut. Use plenty of heat/amperage. Don't worry, the weld won't stick to the hub enough to hurt anything if you don't get too carried away. It doesn't have to be pretty either, just puddle it up real good inside the nut. Ideally the nut will be cherry red and maybe the stud will be too. Let it cool some and it'll come right out. If it is a press through like the one pictured on ebay then all you have to do is support it with an old socket a little bigger than the stud back/head and drive/press it out.
Around $200 for hub and wedges with shipping wouldn't seem too bad. I'd probably try fixing the original if I thought it was serviceable at all and it was mine. But that's just me, I usually fix things till they can't be fixed again.